Mabuchi FC280 motor
#1
Posted 01 November 2015 - 09:14 AM
I get PMs from people looking for projects they can dig into for not much dinero, and I most often tell them to look at some of the Mabuchi motors being sold today for industrial uses such as automotive accessories... car door lock and mirror actuators. After that, I'll tell them to look for motors with 2mm shafts and of a size that makes sense for slot cars.
Slot car racers did the very same thing waaaaay back when they looked for motors either from other hobbies (model railroading) and industry. So, this is a continuation of that exact aspect of early slot racing. As dedicated slot car motors from various manufacturers made all this unnecessary, people didn't need to go scrounging, and they could (if they wanted to go faster) just rewind/modify slot car motors. As the offerings from the manufacturers got better and better, even that became "unnecessary", and people just bought motors or parts off the shelf.
Now, with all things Retro more popular and the really fast stuff having become pretty pricey, there are still ways to have fun cobbling together motors intended for other purposes. The good news is that even "plain jane" motors come with some pretty great parts... most notably magnets, and some of the old "standard" sizes are still out there in disguise.
The old Mabuchi 26D has a close descendant in the modern FC280. The height is a bit lower now (a good thing), the length is a bit longer now... close to the Mabuchi FT16D (also a good thing), the shaft is still 2mm (yippee!) and best of all, the magnets are what would have been considered evidence of alien visitations in the early '60s (hip, hip, hooray!). These motors come with a set of ceramics that blow the old 26D Arcos out of the water and in the stock new can (still one piece "drawn") produce a "hole" that's pretty dead-bang perfect for a .590" diameter arm (score another for the home team), which makes sense because the stock new armature is... .590" diameter.
Now for the bummer... or the really good part if you like getting your fingers dirty. They come with an endbell that's not going to work, using very small/thin brush arms sized for the teensy-weensy commutator that comes installed on the armature. The can is only a bit off from the width and height of the good-old 26D though... so why not modify the 26D en bell to make use of such a neat-o can and magnets?
To start, here's the drawing/specs for the modern FC280:
... and here's what they look like (although they come with all kinds of different shaft options... long, short, splined, smooth, whatevah).
Stock, they look sorta like a Falcon type motor that needs to go on a diet, but those motors are really just a different size of the same inexpensive type as the FC280, just spec'd for slots instead of Toyota door locks . The really good news here is that they are easy to get and cost like $2 or so... as do other industrial-type motors from Mabuchi and others that can be used for these kinds of projects.
There are even dead-ringers for the "Falcon" type "FK" sized motors, although flat-can modern motors the size of FT16D and FT36D don't seem to be around... or at least as much(?). There are full round can versions, but for obvious reasons, those aren't nearly as attractive an option for slots.
For our uses, the FC280 doesn't require "rocket science" to wind up with a motor that will drop right into most cars that would normally use a Mabuchi 26D. More to come.
-john
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#2
Posted 01 November 2015 - 09:38 AM
Keeping an eye on this one.
Once you decipher the Mabuchi code all is revealed.
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#3
Posted 01 November 2015 - 11:01 AM
Other manufacturers also produce motors that are roughly equivalent as well, Paul. The FC280 happens to have excellent magnets, but there are also variants using neos in some sizes from Mabuchi and other manufacturers. At a few bucks a pop, there isn't much risk seeing what's what with these things.
-john
#4
Posted 01 November 2015 - 01:15 PM
Sometimes I'll fill in the magnet stop dimples with some solder and paint over them just for a cleaner look. Here I just left 'em and, after a little can work, the magnets are back in their home.
The few modifications I did to the can are to drill it for securing the endbell, drill cooling holes top and bottom (very easy in this mild, and thin/light steel), and grind off the extra steel at the rear of the can preparing it for a new bushing. Really, the stock oilite bushing is fine, but I most often like to grind off the extra steel that holds it because... well... it just looks more like a proper slot car motor. The original oilite is a 5mm x 2mm, but when you grind off the steel flush to the rear of the can, a 5mm bushing is a loose fit. So, I simply reamed out the bushing hole to fit a 6mm x 2mm replacement. Using a tapered reamer avoids the "walking" that a (handheld) drill is prone to, and usually keeps the hole perfectly centered.
Here's the endbell installed on the modified can. The endbell needed to be trimmed top and bottom (*on the "flats") some, and only a bit on the side radiuses. Of course, this would be more accurate (and with less risk of ruining the endbell) using shop tools, but I don't have any other than a milling set-up for my Proxxon rotary tool. That can work surprisingly well with a bunch of fiddling, but I've done this sort of thing a bunch of times with no major problems by just taking little "bites" measuring and taking more "little bites". Besides, this is all about being able to do this stuff with the stuff that a basic scratchbuilder will already have lying around. BTW, the Proxxon is to even the "best" Dremel what a light saber is to a butter knife!
In the can, and after the slight can mods, these magnets measure around 1,150 or a little over, which is close to what the Parma EPX magnets measure, and are fairly well matched and puts the Arco 26D magnets to shame. It might even be "too much" magnet for some winds!
Here's the proof that everything has stayed well-centered. The stock Mabuchi 26D blank (still available NOS) measures .592"-.595". The FC280 magnets back in the can leave a near dead-bang .600" hole... maybe a bit under, but the arm rotates beautifully in the setup without hitting anything. Without resorting to honing the magnets or grinding the arm, a clearance of around .005" TOTAL is some scary-tight stuff for such an ordinary/imprecise setup!
I'll be polishing the arm OD down to around .590" or so, which will still leave only around .003" clearance per side. Of course, the arm could also be precision ground down pretty much as far as you'd like by any of the services out there that do this sort of thing, because there's tons of material on the crowns of the Mabuchi 26D blank that could be removed if wanted.
Here's a shot of the blank 26D arm. I did have to push the shaft carefully (these shafts will bend easily) to wind up with the stack and shaft ends where I want them to be. As was almost always the case with the 26D, this motor will be endbell drive, and because it will use a standard (Champion in this case) 26D endbell, stock brackets will work and it should be a "drop in" in most cases... except where the small additional length is a problem. Remember, this motor's length is more like an FT16D, but it's not as tall as a 26D so there's a little extra clearance underneath for a scratchbuild.
-john
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#5
Posted 03 November 2015 - 07:22 AM
Time to figure out how to go with the wind here. These magnets could easily take a big wire arm... a #26 or a #25, if the car wasn't going to be run hard, or maybe something weird like a "26D" type dragster.
Then again, the endbell is still a Mabuchi, and if the car was headed for some serious laps, all kinds of melted plastic issues could arise if it gets the "fat stuff".
I'm leaning towards a #26, or maybe a #29 double, but I gotta ruminate (I've been looking for an excuse to use that word) on this one.
-john
#6
Posted 03 November 2015 - 09:51 AM
Maybe an Outlaw Super 16?? 55t28 for the drag guys?? I know, maybe boring but that endbell...
#7
Posted 03 November 2015 - 10:04 AM
The outlaw thing is appealing to me because... well... I guess I'm sort of an outlaw. Anyway, this is why I keep coming back to #27 winds. They're just this side of ridiculous for the old motors, and in a new set-up are way-fast. I'm going to do a hot 27 and make it a stoopid-fast "26D". I guess this will be more like a "28D"!
-john
#8
Posted 03 November 2015 - 01:41 PM
THIS:
to THIS:
-john
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#9
Posted 03 November 2015 - 01:48 PM
Edit* posted right after you with the finished mill shot... boy does that look and sound a potent beast!
#10
Posted 03 November 2015 - 02:26 PM
The motor *could* be made to go even faster by switching to the larger 36D sized (same size as modern "standard" horizontal brushes) brushes, but I figure... "why tempt fate?"
All in all, I'm stoked!
-john
#11
Posted 03 November 2015 - 03:18 PM
Certainly a lot of industrial/automotive autos other DC motors to look at and try.
#12
Posted 04 November 2015 - 06:44 AM
I forgot to mention that I also sanded the bottom of the endbell flange flush with the can to take advantage of the can's significantly lower profile. Racers and builders like to keep the cars as low as they can!
-john
#13
Posted 10 November 2020 - 06:24 PM
I did almost he same thing to one of my motors, except I wound it with something REALLY crazy and the solder on the comm flew and then the wires then popped off. I didn't care to save it. I did steal the magnets from it though.
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