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#1 Marty N

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Posted 01 December 2015 - 03:46 PM

Newest KMR project named "Mule II". Strictly a research and development platform. First order of business is picture posting.

 

KMRail.JPG


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#2 Don Weaver

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Posted 01 December 2015 - 04:12 PM

Looking forward to following this build. Marty does some fantastic work...

 

Don


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#3 havlicek

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Posted 01 December 2015 - 05:33 PM

Yikes... looks like pretty serious business, accent on the "pretty"!

 

-john


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#4 Marty N

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Posted 01 December 2015 - 11:04 PM

Looking forward to following this build. Marty does some fantastic work...

 

Don

 

It will be slow going Don. I've been at this one a while already and changed it several times. Still not perfectly happy but much closer.  I haven't much time anymore to devote to the hobby.

 

Yikes... looks like pretty serious business, accent on the "pretty"!

 

-john

 

Thanks John. It's meant to be serious. Dead serious.  Thanks for the complement. Hope it delivers on 'all that'.


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#5 Marty N

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Posted 02 December 2015 - 03:38 PM

KMR Gen II Quad modified UO13D drawn can motor under construction for future use in this project. A "serious intentions" hint.

 

Not where it will start. That will be VX Raptor motor duty. Fretting our way toward the deep end without jumping in to the deep end straight away. The VX will generate enough speed to proof the aero. The ceramic Infinity was the end of Da Mule so seems a good place for Mule II to start.  

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#6 Marty N

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Posted 02 December 2015 - 10:01 PM

Some rework was indicated. Testing showed that the top wing location was more likely to produce nose lift than back half downforce. Forward and lower gave a better 'feel' . Took the opportunity to make some other adjustments as well that lead to a nice weight savings. Things I was putting off to the future seemed timely given the extent of the modifications.  As a modular chassis the tie in was reformed using lighter materials with slightly adjusted angles. A slight tweak to front half width. Free hand mirror bends in tubing is painfully time consuming. If this actually works a jig will be in order.  

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#7 M.Dennis

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Posted 03 December 2015 - 07:35 PM

Will you be testing different tires on the Mule 2.


[b]Mike Dennis{/b]

#8 Marty N

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Posted 03 December 2015 - 10:48 PM

Part of the project goals Mike are to let function dictate form. Meaning every part of the car has to eventually be 'proven' and earn it's keep. So yes, tires are part of the process but no, not every pair or type will be tried. There are some common sense function based filters we all use. Size, fit, quality of build.

 

Of course availability is key. Available to me specifically. In the past many of my projects ended up test beds for other peoples parts and ideas. I'd even pay for the privilege. Looking back there are better decisions I could have made than to pay someone to test their stuff on my cars at may expense. That said there is no reason not to use what NOS tires I have in stock from suppliers I no longer deal with nor is there any reason not to use tires from some of the other builders out there who are more project friendly. I even have a small supply of raw materials to make a few of my own.

 

Eventually something will become the limiting factor. Tires are as good a limit as any. I've had pretty good success on many commercial tires so let's just see how it goes.


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#9 Marty N

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 07:57 PM

Front Wing vs Top Wing. Identical angles of attack. Different shapes.  Very different results.

 

I have about 20 hours in the wing development so far. Just about enough to be dangerous.

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#10 Marty N

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Posted 06 December 2015 - 08:17 PM

Another idea brought to life by one of the "KMR Short List" members for consideration even if just for the sake of the exercise. For the sake of data. What can be done is allot. What should be done? What is required to be done? That is what is being worked on. This may take some time to fret out.

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#11 Marty N

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Posted 09 December 2015 - 12:36 AM

Got around to fabricating a narrower top wing. More wrap on the radius and a bit more attack angle allowed it to be a bit narrower. With the addition of the sills it was only a third of a gram saved. That's allot of work for a fractional gain. It is brass. It's just tinned.

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#12 Marty N

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 01:59 PM

I've used the Slick-7 motor bracket for the KMR G-9 series chassis from the beginning. One of the few sturdy brackets you can get your hands on as an individual item.

 

All of those chassis were 2-D and required a tie from mount to axle cause...that's were the chassis would flex binding the gear set. I had to shave the base of that mount to get a frame flush fit and they were often given a thinning on the surface grinder to loose some weight. For whatever reason (old) I whiffed building this chassis taking the mount straight from package to chassis never giving it a thought. Motor sat off the chassis and above axle center. That needed correcting. This is that correction.

 

I recently decided that the Neo/FC platform wasn't going to be part of my staple stable for awhile so I pirated the mount from my best JDS Neo chassis. Grind off the tabs and go. Already thinner and lighter. The 3-D nature of this chassis also negates the need for the top mount tie in wire. If so, you may ask, why bother with a mount period? Good question.

 

1.) I hate heat on Neo motors. 2.) Alignment 3.) Makes tuning changes of spur gears a breeze. 4.) I prefer them.

 

 

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#13 M.Dennis

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 07:45 PM

If the front wing was causing turbulance under the rear wing why lower the rear wing, why not just eliminate the front wing.


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#14 Marty N

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 08:32 PM

If the front wing was causing turbulance under the rear wing why lower the rear wing, why not just eliminate the front wing.

 

Not sure how I lead you to that conclusion Mike. It wasn't killing the top wing with turbulence that I know of. 

 

The top wing was just so high and so far back on the old car that it was leveraging the nose of the car in the air forcing more front wing than it should have needed. This one is about 30% the area of that black sidewinder dragster I ran at your track. Don't know if you remember that one. Swap Rat XXX body? WRP PS-27 wing double tapped to the nose. Not pretty. Anyway. I absent mindedly repeated that mistake on this car. This is just me correcting a past error. And now a motor mount. Argh.

 

I appreciate your interest in this project. Keep it coming.

 

As far as eliminating the front wing goes. Yes, perhaps in time that will happen if it proves to be too much with this new construction. You know how I like to let the data direct a project.


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#15 Marty N

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 08:51 PM

Here Mike. That jog the memory? This is the car that kept going nose up kack'n the braids. I pulled this WPR wing out of the box and taped it on the nose the night it went .350 @ 78+ MPH. Never burnt a braid there after. (short track)

 

The Yellow car even though it had no top wing would sail when it hit about 60 mph until the nose wing was added. At which point 90 MPH was a cake walk. (Long track) I offer both to bracket the polar opposites of the top wing condition. Tall and too far back to none.  There have been two other cars in this series with other configurations that have all lead to the current construction.

 

BTW the yellow car needed some top wing. Never turned the ET's the MPH promised and you could hear the motor unload at 1/3 track for a split second.

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#16 Marty N

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 10:07 PM

This is this new cars predecessor. The Swamp Rat XXX body (above) and "all that" WRP wing taped to it fit her. Ugly as it is. Tis the fastest dragster I've built to date and sets the bar and by a bunch.

 

I'm now considering all the rework to be done. Wings and motor mount are finished. Time to finish the rolling detail. Guide. Wheelie assembly. Some scrapping and blasting. Install wheel bearings.

 

Was it worth all the extended effort and second and third guesses? My scales say it was. Ready to race it will be about 25% lighter that my quickest previous dragster build.

 

 

 

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#17 Marty N

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Posted 16 December 2015 - 11:29 AM

Koford Premium axle bearings were swapped for the Proslot units that saved a quarter gram. Narrowed the rear wheel track. Spins like a high speed machine tool spindle in the BAD Racing machined, KMR CAD axle tube. The roller at this stage is under 35 grams as shown. There is a nip here and tuck there but by and large I'm ready to move on to building and fitting a motor.

 

I break a car down; 1.) Bare chassis with bearings and any solid attachments. Wings in this example. 2.) Wheelie bar axle and assembly and 3.) Guide and nut are broke out separately 4.) Drive assembly is grouped together. Axle, wheels, rubber, pinion/crown gear, spacers, grubs. Driven rotating parts. 5.) Power assembly. Motor, leads, spades (if used) and braid. 6.) Lastly, when applicable, a/the body. When a body uses wings those go with the body and not the chassis. For door cars the pins and mounting tubes are also part of the chassis.

 

I hope you can see the method in that madness.

 

This chassis, less the wings, is @ the weight of a wire built JDS Neo Chassis. Literally within a fraction of a gram.  The wings weigh @ the same as the DRS Wide High Downforce Camaro painted body with AA/FC wing. The motor platform will be the same 13D sized motors run in the Neo/FC cars. Meaning any weight penalty will lay almost entirely in the extra length of lead wire required to bridge this slightly longer wheelbase.

 

This car, without making a pass, is already a success. The exercise was, at this stage of build; "Can I build with geometry and lighter weight components a roller that is not only multiples stiffer but without additional weight" that is just as strong or stronger than a conventional Neo/FC build. Mission accomplished. I believe I framed it putting the weigh of a body to use in the chassis. A swap of mass. Done deal.

 

In fact while in the process of construction about 2 to 3 more grams of dead weight has been discovered that will not detract from the overall stiffness or strength of the car. Those ideas are in the notebook and a CAD file started. Fact is, part of the problem in my building cars...is that they are always in flux and never complete in form. Sometimes I don't know when to draw a line in the sand and say "lets try this much".

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#18 Marty N

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Posted 18 December 2015 - 07:26 PM

After dressing the spot welds inside and a good de-burring, the can was sized using custom  multi piece tooling. A piloted screwed in mirror slug and a sizing ring. The former arbor pressed through the latter greased. Not just squared and shaped but to factory blueprint specs. Shown degreased and media blasted. 6 mm bearing installed on pilot and now sorting/fitting magnets.

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#19 Marty N

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 03:01 PM

Please excuse the delay. Ill health has been holding this project up. I put a pause on the motor in the frame above. Decided to use something I have some history with.

 

The motor from my Yellow Roadster project looks to have a few spins left in it. Commutator now measuring .194" before a needed cut. This motor was used in the Street Outlaw Mustang last. The set up is a Hawk can with shimmed Emovendo singles. They meter nice and are a known and built setup. This arm is an ancient .477" Proslot "Scale" X blank 25 single at a low 22* timing. Hope is I get a few more cuts from it before it goes south. I have in stock two other armatures that will fit this setup nicely. A scale X .480 21/84.5 and a Raptor .484" 84 both 25* or less timing. The first, part of a lot bought that included the 25 single, a 33/38 and a 30/26 now all used up or given away.  The second a replacement for a blown 53 Raptor Funny Car arm that was to go in the Outlaw car before an ill timed "pedal" shredded the windings.

 

I did the clean up of parts today and inspections. Tomorrow perhaps I'll get to the machine work and see what I really have. Final selection depends on the parts afterward.


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#20 Marty N

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 05:51 PM

Time opened up this afternoon and the 25/25 cleaned up in .0005". That's the arm we start with then. Getting my moneys worth from this arm. It's been in service since 12/01/2010. Hundreds of passes and countless rebuilds. Which makes it a good time to point out that if you don't let that arm get burnt to a crisp between builds it doesn't take so much cutting to revive it. Doesn't hurt either to do what you can to limit overlap dead shorts. They are armature killers.


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#21 Marty N

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 04:32 PM

Dress rehearsal photo.

 

Fully assembled she scales near the top of, but comfortably inside the initial target 'range'. Weighs a bit less than the average EDM "kit based" Euro can Neo powered Funny Car.

 

Complete teardown for the final fretting, final adjustments and inspection and a slow careful reassembly. Then...it's time to find a track and test this pig...ah...pardon me..."Da Mule II".

 

The motor although built nicely has seen it's best passes already but is more than up to the task of giving it a good trashing. Having powered heavier less aero worthy cars to speeds and times

that should well proof the aero package and mechanical stability.

 

 

 

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#22 Marty N

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 11:34 PM

Once started it's hard to stop. Broke the motor in wet and gave it a pull on the dyno. 516 watts peak. 221 RMS and about 118,000 rpm peak. That's about 40 watts below this arms all time best but about 50 watts hotter than a factory fresh Raptor 25 single. Using a bit heavier spring to clamp the motor down a bit.

 

Installed a leggy gear set giving a 3.34:1 roll out. Tires are a bit taller than the average AA/FC but the standard .450" ish width. Bolted the motor in and soldered it down. Motor is tacked from the bottom to the inside right frame rail. Over 75% back half bias. Bar is bench set for flush braid. Most of the tracks around here are close to that. I need an axle spacer in a width I don't have I'll pick up on test day at the track to adjust the track width. Everything is oiled up and run in. Some things can't be done until  your there.

 

I'll make some phone calls tomorrow and see who the closest track that is up and running with enough power to feed her. It's been an issue locally for some time. I don't mind traveling a reasonable distance and I do want to see if we are in the ball park here. I have no preference on track length. There's enough motor to push it to 80 MPH or better in a straight slot. It is a pretty soft setup. Not what I would run on Race Day but a manageable test set up that's easy on parts and long on giving us a look.

 

I know I said in an earlier post that a 30/26 would be the starting point but I didn't have a useable arm that would fit a existing setup. I'm working from the scrap bins. Almost all the this car is "used parts" repurposed. Heck, even the braid. Bridge work is the only truly new part in this car. Okay, solder.


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#23 Marty N

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Posted 05 February 2016 - 05:56 PM

Weather permitting and travel plans confirmed I should have some results by end of next week. 1/8 mile venue.


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#24 Marty N

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 11:59 PM

Today was test day but first,  I give a tip of the hat to Roger Schmitt at Mid-America Bloomington, Illinois for hiring Gerding Fast Tracks to build the sweetest little 1/8 mile drag strip I've ever had the pleasure to throw a pass down.

 

Straight smooth slot, flat and level and plenty of power for what I was doing today. Huge bite and did I mention a straight smooth slot? I took more than just our project car. I needed a feel for the track itself and my war wagons gave me an excellent look. Everyone of them posting a new personal best. From a few hundredths to a full tenth. My 41 Willys bracket beater has a name based on it's .666 dial in. Not even looked at since it's last outing over a year and a half ago it lays down a string of 590's smooth as silk. Maybe I should clean an oil it. That was the least impressive of the brace of cars I took. Did I mention the slot is reallyyyyyy straight and smooth?

 

Okay, what your looking at this tread for, Da Mule. This motor built down a bit on power from it's all time best giving away nearly 40 peak watts and @ 20,000 rpm and .0400 RMS horsepower. No excuse, just explanation. The arm is getting thin and the magnets are down a bit. The car is 5 grams heavier than the Yellow Corvette Roadster that last used this motor.

 

Da Mule II is a success in every metric that matters. The Corvette chassis was on the razors edge with this motor. Mule didn't break a sweat pushing the extra mass cleanly and without incident.

 

.073-60', .336 ET @ 74.76 MPH laying down 49.75% of the RMS power.

 

Besting the Corvettes 49.26% by 2.5%. The Corvette went clean a few passes each outing and a bunch of broken attempts. This car broke off only a few passes making more clean passes in one outing that the Corvette did in three or so. I had written in my log book a prediction of performance based on a F=MA calculation I do that reads .074-60" .3362 ET @ 81 MPH. Not something I advertise as a rule but it nailed it.

 

We had some goals for this projects success.

 

1.) Make weight of a Neo/FC in a longer wheelbase dragster. Check.

2.) Equivalent on track performance to the Corvette utilizing its power package. (Set a base line measuring against a well flogged known) Check.

​3.) Improve "on track" pass over pass consistency. ( Measure of chassis stability) Check.

​4.) Proof aero stability in anticipation of power to weight increases. Check.

 

In other words, finish what the Corvette started that neither the High Downforce Camaro Neo/FC or Roadsters could not. Yet to be seen but we have a working platform that has potential. Just don't know how much yet. It "reads" well.

 

The initial gearing was, as I guessed, a bit leggy and was swapped after three passes. A bit of work on spring pressure netted a balance between 60' times and MPH numbers that were livable. More importantly predictable. Something none of the earlier cars were consistent enough to provide. This car is an easy reader. No guessing as to what is causing what. I could not be happier with this outing or with the car. It's on target.

 

No outing is complete without a bit of drama. Mine came in my controller. I bought a new 9 volt for the relay. Both the Korford and my KMR homebuilt use them and both were dead after a year and a half layoff. I start with the Koford. It leaves a bit softer give the 2 Ohm wire resistor. Beat the car up pretty good too getting it down to the 340's and consistent if but slowing to the 69-71 MPH area. Allot of passes. Swapped the battery to the KMR and...Ziltch!! Dead as a door nail. Had been all day. New and dead. No, I can't hear it unless it's up tight to my ear. Borrowed a Defalco drag controller with working relay. Picked up 4-5 mph and lost another hundredth. Well that stinks. Run the goodies out of it to find it's been power crippled all day.

 

Okay then. Time to put this to bed (me) and start making a game plan for the next outing.

 

The wings work. Front wing is Goldie Locks perfect. Top wing worked way better than it needs to. Less would be better, maybe. Tire grows too much. It's actually too wide for this power. Hindering top speeds even running no glue past the lights. The original Mule use to unload and hunt at mid track due to low downforce and tire mismatch. Too little down track bite. This one a bit too much. Better gearing is between the two used today. That's a start.  


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#25 Arne Saknussem

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 03:53 PM

Excellent work, well rewarded.  Bravo.


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#26 Marty N

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 09:53 PM

I love tools. Analytical tools. I have thousands of dollars in hand and machine tools. They're useful for assembly and reassembly. Not so much for analysis. The kind that allows you to see into the heart of the beast. Find it's flaws and strengths and engineer solutions. Prevent yourself from destroying strengths. These types of tools are not on the shelves as  your local NAPA. Not many more on the WWW. Some are. They are taught in schools. Printed in textbooks. Collecting the data and setting up the methods you find useful to you is yours. Using the brain God gave you.

 

I'm sharing this snap shot devoid of reference. Showing the values as percentages instead of absolutes. These are not percentages of the dyno room numbers but of the power that actually makes it to the track. Those other numbers that most find useless, that are believed to be unmeasurable or full error due to misunderstood limits on measurements I find a gold mine with a HIGH CORRELATION to the observable and measureable of a pass and a few critical  bench measurements we take for granted to be accurate. Such as weight in example.

 

Ever see those pictures that are created on a dot matrix printer of nothing but X's? Data is like that. A single X or a small sampling of X's and there is no picture. Get enough X's and you find the picture that was intended to be there. It's not just collecting them but knowing what to do with them. A bunch of random X's is as useless as a bucket full of ash. Just taking up space. They fill the notebooks of racers around the world.

 

This graph is the reason for my contentment with this rail. Just rough numbers last night but fretted out today in my own well refined way show me a picture that says this platform runs as well, actually a hair quicker than a kit based Funny Car at the SAME power to weight ratio. (Same motor)  Believed impossible due to certain issues such as a dragsters natural lack of a high degree of downforce for instance. You can see the differences between them by looking at the Funny Car graph and it makes perfect sense when you do. Intuitive in fact.

 

It is one of many such tools used in combination that paint a whole picture that has resulted in this cars success in one attempt. One single tool isn't enough to give the color you need to make a good "next step". No more so than a screw driver is capable of building a small block Chevy.

 

I use to take my laptop with me to get the results in as close to real time as possible. I found the laughter of others distracting so I test, record, load and print at home. Make changes and repeat.

 

The quest is to minimize the pie slices that represent losses and move that power to the acceleration slice. Use a higher percentage of the dyno RMS number. Build motors with higher RMS percentages. Learn to manipulate the motors "load". What levers do what and why do they do them.

 

My records go back to early 2009 and I'm just getting my methods refined enough to use them well. Well enough a calculator in my pocket and a few premade graphs gets the daily done.

 

I won't post many of these. If step changes progress well they wont change much anyway even if times fall considerably. Besides, they annoy allot of people. :laugh2:

 

 

 

 

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Martin Nissen
 
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#27 Marty N

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 12:40 PM

Not a bad first outing having not pulled a trigger in two years. Initially I was quite happy with the outing and overall I still am.  But the more I go over the workups,  I see areas that need some refinement.

 

I didn’t really nail the cars mid track bite. Call it ring rust or a slight miss in the set up.  I can especially see it when I compare this outing to this motor in several other cars. A small tell-tail here and there. Little things I saw that at the time that escaped my closer scrutiny chart work put a spot light on. Things I put in the gray locker I did write down that I wouldn’t have recalled without my analytical toys.

 

This motor in the heavier full body sidewinder nails the tracks center with ease and has a much wider ‘glue’ window in that area. Easier to manipulate. While that’s good the things that make it so also prevent it from reaching the times the lighter car can. In a Funny Car this motor acts much like the Mule II to the thousand foot mark but a Funny will pull that last 320 feet harder than a rail will. They punch a cleaner window even it is larger.

 

I have to rethink my guide preparation and hub size. Hard chassis don’t address the track dynamically the same as a softer two dimensional chassis. While not unknown, it is pretty much unexplored in this platform.  Not really bad different, just different. Fact is the harder chassis is easier to read. Just harder to manipulate. Current wisdoms say they are always slower but let’s wait before we put the nail in that coffin. Given the nature of Neo motors I’m thinking this is a match made.

 

Four different cars, same motor. Blue line is the long sidewinder. That’s a target. Orange line the Mule II. It is also the quickest time of the quartet. Yellow is the SVO Outlaw and the Gray line a Funny Car. Even the big boys funny cars draw that trace. (Power delivered to distance traces, telemetry)

 

Time to start the rebuild and ready a second assault. 1113

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Martin Nissen
 
So hard a judge they hope never to meet as themselves.

#28 Marty N

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 12:41 AM

Not in a big hurry here for a host of reasons. This particular construction maybe closer to the minimum mass than I thought. Mainly this means almost any change will involve a gain in weight. Save a few moves that I already know would fail. Titanium axle for instance. Worked great in the 55 gram roadster. Bent them at 65 grams with more power using the current axle housing setup. About 2 grams at this length. I like the feature more than the idea of a lighter axle.

I've been playing with tires and every set I have access to is adding a gram or two.

I mentioned not nailing the mid track bite. I expect you might have thought I meant not enough. Not so. Too much was available and I ran out of time and motor to explore it further. Gut says I have two much tire which would also say narrow them and loose some weight. For reasons of my own, that won't happen. That has little to do with the car. Let's just say more power would be a better choice than a slimmer footprint. This arm is running out of commutator anyway. Guess I'm saying it's time to step it up even if that isn't exactly what I had in mind as the next progression.

I'm happy with the aero package for the present. All I have to report presently.
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#29 Slot Car Mods Magazine

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Posted 27 February 2016 - 01:59 PM

A very kOoL project you have here...!!!

 

:good:


Ron Todhunter
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#30 Marty N

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Posted 27 February 2016 - 09:53 PM

A very kOoL project you have here...!!!

 

:good:

 

Thank you. You have an interesting project yourself.

 

1221


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#31 Slot Car Mods Magazine

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Posted 27 February 2016 - 10:14 PM

 

Thank you. You have an interesting project yourself.

 

1221

 

Hey, thanks for noticing Marty...

 

:)


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#32 Marty N

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 10:47 PM

Total tear down and cleaning and some modifications underway. Cut down bolt in motor mount to ease motor and pinon gear R&R and toss 4/10 of a gram of weight. Motor has a second anchor from underneath soldered to the inside right frame rail. Bolt in mount is there mainly as a locating guide to assure quick simple gear alignment.  

 

Old top wing it gone along with its mount of solid TIG wire. A frame wide mounting pad installed further forward and again, lower. A lighter wing gets bonded to this pad. Yet to be constructed. This could be as simple as an AA/FC type Lexan device. Undecided.

 

No change to the front wing until I have the guide squared away. I have a good pattern in the braid but I want a perfect pattern. Wing affects that. Guide angle. Braid length. Power and gravity centers. Spent some time on the phone with Dallas Booth discussing this and got some ideas.

 

​Some work on the wheelie bar mounting bracket. Get a better square up and loose some unused mass. I made it stronger than it needed to be.

 

​Changed solder type in a few places. I use several. Sometimes it's decided by melt temperature. Sometimes by strength. 60/40, 40/60 & 94/6 silver.

 

There are only two relatively heavy parts in the chassis. Guide tongue and the front wing and mount. Made a pretty good first pass at this car. It would be pretty tough to get 2 more grams from the chassis.

 

1265

 

 

 

Attached Images

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Martin Nissen
 
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#33 Marty N

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Posted 02 March 2016 - 11:35 PM

Guide work today. Exchanging the Slick 7 cut down for a JK cut down lookup part JK-3504. Most rules state a 1" maximum guide length. Okay, rules use to say that. Longer flags hold the timer out longer give a quicker ET. The Slick 7 was too short at .915" giving away. The blade of the JK is much longer 1.045" long which I shortened to meet a rule that just takes arguments away. Cost me some weight. Half a gram after profiling it. Removed some blade length, stated. Took a bit off the back of the nut area to match the Slick 7 profile. Stumped the guide to minimum height and broke all sharp edges. Even with @ 3* of look up I need more and there isn't allot of floor thickness in cut down. I could run a shorter tire, Raise the drive axle or shim the guide. More than one way to skin cats...Back to it.


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#34 Marty N

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 01:17 AM

A lack of top end MPH for the early numbers has several causes but one often overlooked is a guide that is killing the braid tips. As the tire expands the contact patch moves forward. If it gets up on the nose far enough the tips burn off and the motor noses over hard. Not much of an issue with a 16D but you can burn off half the braid with a 43. Currently, we’re in the middle.

 

This car was pretty good first time out but as the wick is turned up it needs to get better. I figure there was about 5 mph untapped. After exploring the options to keep the braid on its heels a new guide and more aggressive attack angle is the flavor of the day.

 

​Spades and braids installed to deform the guide as it will be during a pass. Setup blocks instead of tires and rims for the grind in. I did size on size last time which as I said was close. I'm using a blocks.020" over this time to give additional look up. A look up guide and it still wasn't enough for the tire diameter. I'll go in steps until perfection is found.

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Martin Nissen
 
So hard a judge they hope never to meet as themselves.





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