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Bob Cozine 1967 Arco replica


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#26 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 December 2015 - 11:01 AM

i hope that paint is for the motor can & not the chassis.  :laugh2:  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 
 
Merry Christmas!


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Bill Fernald
 

I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.





#27 Pablo

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Posted 25 December 2015 - 03:42 PM

Thanks, Bill, and Merry Christmas to all Slotbloggers.  :drinks:

 

Especially to those of us who are just a thou off from being perfect.   :D

 

IMG_8695.JPG


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 25 December 2015 - 04:29 PM

I used 96/4 silver solder to secure the brass plate to the can, then 60/40 to secure the SKF ball bearing to the plate. That way the plate wouldn't move when I floated the SKF BB. Plus, the less heat on the BB, the better.  :D

 

IMG_8709.JPG


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#29 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 December 2015 - 09:59 PM

In the days when we used unflanged GRW bearings in C-cans, we used similar brass plates made by Bullet Racing, silver soldered to the inside of cans. I don't remember this plate thickness on the inside required us to shorten the tail stock of the arms any, but that might not be the case in your situation. Soldered motor bearings were done with 60/40 solder.

 

When we started using flanged motor bearings, some soldered them in, others used Loctite.


Bill Fernald
 

I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.


#30 Dennis David

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 12:29 AM

This is a really interesting thread.
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#31 Jay Guard

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 12:52 AM

Hey Pablo,

 

I know you've been saying that the Champion can you're using is "oversized" but it's not really.  

 

For their early 500 series motors Champion always used a fairly thick one-piece shim that went across the bottom of the can and up both sides but not across the top. This shim was a bit problematic since it offset the magnets vertically.  

 

Later in the 500 series Champion started using a two-piece shim which did a much better job of centering the magnets.  Also not sure if you noticed but the picture appears to show the earlier chrome plated can with the aluminum can bearing holder.  The later black can motors of the same series had a large brass can bushing.  At one point in the black can series they started using the unusual "Orange Picker" end bell with the bushing mounted in a separate plate that was screwed to the end bell via the mounting holes.  That didn't really work out too well if you wanted to mount the motor for end bell drive since it could mess up the bearing alignment when you took out the screws to mount the motor.

 

Just a few tidbits FWIW (generally less than $0.02) so carry on, your build will be great as usual.


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#32 tonyp

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 05:32 AM

Exactly

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#33 Pablo

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 06:58 AM

I actually have one of those correct cans, Jay, but it's in poor shape and it isn't autographed by Bob Rule.

So I'm "using what I got" :)  This car isn't intended to be a "perfect" match to the original car anyway.

I'm not using the correct body anyway. It is what it is.

 

The paint job isn't anything to write home about, but the SKF BB turned out fine.

 

IMG_8718.JPG

 

Ready to assemble it and see if she runs :D


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 12:22 PM

The Bob Rule autographed Champion type motor runs great.

If you look closely you can see a "Pablo" thumbprint caused by the cheese quesadilla I had for lunch.

Maybe I should clearcoat it; it's destined to become a prize collector's item :laugh2:

 

IMG_8736.JPG

 

IMG_8745.JPG


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#35 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 01:20 PM

Great you have some power. Now what are you going to put it in?

 

I know don't rush you, one thing at a time.


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#36 Pablo

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 02:38 PM

I know what I'm going to put it in, Eddie.

The question is, do you? :icon22:
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#37 endbelldrive

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 02:41 PM

This is going to be a good build for sure!  

Here's one for ya, front wheel hubs were a standard width for as long as I can remember so front axle tubes were 2" from 1966 to 1971. It gave you the legal amount of slop. Can't remember my phone number but I remember that! :crazy:
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#38 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 02:57 PM

The question is, do you? :icon22:


Well, I know what the pictures above look like so I am sure you will be close.
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#39 Pablo

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Posted 26 December 2015 - 08:03 PM

I doubt anybody is interested in how to shoehorn a Champion endbell into a Russkit bracket.

My advice is, don't attempt it. Mine turned out nice but it was a lot of painstaking work. It looks like the screws are tightened up against the bushing housing, but I assure you, they fall short by a red hair.
 
IMG_8769.JPG
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#40 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 December 2015 - 12:16 AM

Yes, tell us how you did it. I've never shoehorned an endbell into a Russkit bracket, but I've redrilled the legs of a bracket to fit the tubing for 3/16" bushings or bearings. There isn't a whole lot of material to work in those areas either.  :)


Bill Fernald
 

I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.


#41 Pablo

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Posted 27 December 2015 - 06:19 AM

I took Don Weaver's motor breakin platform.

IMG_8558.JPG
 
Hogged it out to 5/16" to use it as a guide.

IMG_8750.JPG
 
Then tacked the bracket onto it and drilled it.

IMG_8758.JPG
 
But now the problem is, the screws are going to be pushing into the flange, not the bracket.

IMG_8762.JPG
 
So I found another plate thingie, tacked, and drilled it also.

IMG_8763.JPG
 
Now it's a permanent part of the bracket. The screws now hold the motor tight to the bracket without molesting the flange.

IMG_8771.JPG
 
IMG_8769.JPG
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#42 Pablo

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Posted 27 December 2015 - 08:43 AM

Tubing prep. Weldun 35t will clear 1/32".

IMG_8773.JPG
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#43 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2015 - 09:52 AM

Axle tubes.

IMG_8779.JPG
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#44 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2015 - 07:41 PM

Bracket is braced and ready to get jiggy-ed up. The wide brace will come later after I lay the second rails.

 

IMG_8798.JPG

 

IMG_8784.JPG

 

Speaking of the wide brace, I can't tell from the photos exactly how it's configured. It's one of two ways. It either:

 

A) goes straight to the bracket and tube then stops, and there is a separate rod spacer between second and third rails

B) goes to the rails, bends at the proper angle to join the party, and serves as the (aforementioned) rail spacer.

 

As a builder, I'm hoping it's "B" because that would make a nice strong redundant connection between rails and tubes.

 

I have blown-up the photos, but the shadows lie. So I'm not sure.


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2015 - 08:55 PM

Bob Suzuki's "2 inch front axle tubing" tip worked perfectly; thanks, Bob.  :good:

 

Bunky asked "what is the stupid blue masking tape for?" 

 

IMG_8802.JPG

 

Champion D cans are bigger than Mabuchi cans, so I can't use my Mab D jig motor - it wouldn't be as precise as I like.

And I don't have any Champion cans and endbells I'm willing to melt.

 

I installed the (actual) motor to check the tilt - the space under the bottom bracket brace needs to be elevated 12 thou above ground zero.

A piece of Lexan and a piece of tape provides that. As soon as the first rail is in place, it comes off.

Happy now, Bunky? Good. Now go back to your trailer.  :diablo: :laugh2:

 

Bunky.jpg


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#46 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 December 2015 - 09:20 PM

Are those your own "duffies" on the motor bracket? They appear to be made from 5/32", 3/16", and 7/32" tubing. :)


Bill Fernald
 

I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.


#47 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2015 - 09:37 PM

Those are the real deal, Sir. (if you'd seen post 42 you'd probably have known that.  :sarcastic_hand: )

I usually only use duffies on Thingies, not on Pro replicas.

 

Appreciate the fact you mistook my custom ones for Duffy's perfectly machined items.  :)


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#48 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 December 2015 - 11:04 PM

Never had the real deal to look over carefully. In post #43, the solder shown on the inside of the one in front lead me to think it was an assembled unit rather than a machined one-piece item.


Bill Fernald
 

I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.


#49 Pablo

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Posted 28 December 2015 - 11:06 PM

Cleaned, sanded, and tested straight. That should be enough rods for five rails per side.

 

IMG_8809.JPG


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#50 Pablo

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Posted 29 December 2015 - 08:17 PM

I thought I was on a roll with the Cozine chassis this morning.

 

Rail sets one and two were in place, then I re-read the text and realized I'd made a significant mistake.

Inner rails are wire, not rod. :dash2:  Good thing the second set of rails was already tacked in place.

Damage control, I lifted it off the jig and performed minor surgery by slicing the (bad) rails off close as possible to their tack positions.

Removed the bad bits, tinned a pair of wire rails, bent 'em up, and I'm back in the game now, baby.  :laugh2:

 

IMG_8817.JPG

 

I think I got the secondary rear bracket brace correct, in that it connects to the bottoms of the tubes.

They even touch the second rail uprights, which gave me an opportunity to solder them.  :)

 

Apart from the motor bracket, everything is merely tacked at this point.

 

IMG_8813.JPG

 


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