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Bob Cozine 1967 Arco replica


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#51 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 29 December 2015 - 08:35 PM

You do beautiful work building, and you do an excellent job of documenting your projects in photos.

 

Thanks!


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#52 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 December 2015 - 08:44 PM

Now we know why you had 12 brass rods for the five rails per side. :)


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#53 Pablo

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Posted 29 December 2015 - 09:37 PM

Thanks, Eddie, for appreciating the amount of work involved. :)

 

Mentor Bill knew I was going to screw up some rail bends, and I did. No crying in chassis building.  :laugh2:

 

Took it out of the jig for a short breather.

 

IMG_8823.JPG


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#54 Pablo

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Posted 30 December 2015 - 07:04 PM

Finally starting to look like a Jail Door. Rail joints are still only rough tacked for now.

 

IMG_8824.JPG


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#55 Pablo

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 12:02 PM

Once I had the body mount tubes on, I went back over the unfinished joints.

 

Now all I need is a drop arm and it's ready to tumble.

 

IMG_8835.JPG


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#56 Pablo

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 07:58 PM

.065" OD stainless hypodermic tubing hinges the drop arm.

 

IMG_8846.JPG

 

I reduced the OD of the brass tube center section from .0945" to .093" so it would clear the center body mount tube a little more.


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#57 Pablo

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 02:15 PM

Drop arm is done, BBs are soldered in, ready for the tumbler.

 

IMG_8850.JPG


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#58 Jairus

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 02:25 PM

Looks good, Paul!


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#59 Pablo

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 03:19 PM

Thanks, Jairus. Should look much better in about seven hours... :)


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#60 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 03:35 PM

The chassis looks good! :good:


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#61 Pablo

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 07:10 PM

All shined up.

 

IMG_8868.JPG

 

IMG_8857.JPG


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#62 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 08:37 PM

I wonder how this chassis would handle compared to the Cukras sportscar? The same? Better? Worse? :heat:  Nice job on the drop arm. :sun_bespectacled:  

 

I saw Phillip Niyazi logged in here last week. I'd like to see him chassis building.


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#63 Pablo

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 11:12 AM

Thanks, Bill.

 

I think it will handle similarly to the Cukras, if not better. It has some slight strength advantages, like the wire braces and a wire rail. Also has a redundant third mounting point for the body. The way Bob installed his drop arm weights will be an improvement for sure.

 

On mine, I took the liberty of soldering the outer bracket wire brace to the second rails as well as the tubes. I can clearly see in the photos Bob didn't do it. Any time something has the ability to do double duty I'll take it. So I planned that brace to kiss the rails on the way to the bottom of the tubes.

 

I found a generic replica Champion sticker for the motor and applied three coats of hi-temp engine clearcoat to it.

JK 7t steel press-on pinion is ready to meet the Weldun 35t.

 

Bob used a higher gear ratio (and presumably the extra drop arm weights) than his competitors to allow for a hump in the Kansas City track. According to the article, this was the key that allowed him to stay in the slot and take the win.

 

He used a 34t, I only had a 35t. My motor is probably lots more HP than he had so hopefully it will be "right."

 

IMG_8876.JPG


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#64 dc-65x

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 11:40 AM

Very nice, Pablo! :good:


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#65 tonyp

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 12:35 PM

Pablo,

 

Those red American tracks were car killers. Undulations on the main straight and launch ramps out of the banks destroyed a large percentage of the fields.

 

What was even worse, most had power that toasted motors in a couple of heats. That's why back then very few people would finish the main in one piece or finish at all.


"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#66 Pablo

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 01:21 PM

Thanks, Rick.  :good:

 

Tony, mine only has to do is a few laps around a smooth King.  :D

 

Can't tell what color donuts Bob used from the black and white photos, but they definitely weren't black. So I chose tan.

The hard rubber on the Cobra fronts cracked after truing, so I found a new set of Phase III Cobras and mounted a pair of EJ's #15's on them.

 

IMG_8877.JPG


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#67 tonyp

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 04:08 PM

I am sure they would be blue or gray during that period. Tan will work. LOL.

 

Chassis looks great.


"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#68 dc-65x

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 04:35 PM

Pablo,

 

Just hold off on the tan tires and order a set of blue donuts from AutoWorld... oh, wait... it's not 1968. :laugh2: 

 

Like Tony said, the tans will be fine. I've used orange donuts on cars that should have blues because we do the best we can.

 

Onward! :good:


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#69 Pablo

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 05:00 PM

The oranges and tans I have are working well in testing. The few blues I have instantly start shredding. I'll use them on low-powered cars.  :D

 

She passed the drivetrain test with flying colors and the body mounted perfectly.   :sun_bespectacled:


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#70 Pablo

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 04:19 PM

Ready for track test this Friday.

 

IMG_8884.JPG

 

IMG_8885.JPG

 

IMG_8887.JPG

 

IMG_8894.JPG

 

IMG_8892.JPG

 

IMG_8910.JPG

 

IMG_8913.JPG

 

IMG_8905.JPG

 

IMG_8901.JPG

 

IMG_8897.JPG


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#71 Jencar17

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 05:46 PM

Beautiful!!!

 

:victory: :good:


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#72 Jairus

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 06:27 PM

So pretty!

Needs lettering on that body though. Send to me or Noose.

(I won't charge you a penny BTW.)


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#73 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 06:36 PM

This car came out nice! That body should be easy to pick up went out on a track. I won't comment on the missing numbers because Jairus beat me to it. :) But I was thinking black or red. :dance3:


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#74 Pablo

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 07:12 PM

Thanks.  :)  Let me wait and see what whoever ends up owning it wants for body details.


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#75 Bud Greene

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 07:34 PM

Lookin' good.



#76 Brinkley47

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 11:26 PM

What is the reason for double wires?

 

Amazing-looking car, Pablo!


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#77 tonyp

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 05:33 AM

Carries more current. There was no superflex bigger gauge wire during that period.


"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#78 tonyp

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 05:35 AM

Every once in awhile a wire would break so having two or three per side kept you in the race.


"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#79 Noose

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 09:06 AM

Great job!


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#80 Pablo

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 09:44 AM

Thanks, guys.  :)

 

What is the reason for double wires?

 

In addition to what Tony said, it psyched out the competition into thinking you had a real potent amp-sucking motor that required lots of juice.  :aggressive:

 

Notice each wire is soldered onto the motor in its own separate place, that way they won't both break off "as a team".


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#81 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 01:59 PM

They didn't usually break at the motor unless one did a poor soldering job there. I only broke them at the guide end. I have some orange Hi Pro wire that you ran three or four wires per side. Very fine, flexible stuff.

 

My favorite wire of that period was the big Mura red and blue sheaths they later switched to black and white sheaths.


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#82 tonyp

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 02:37 PM

We used Marklin train wire.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#83 zipper

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 03:13 PM

We, too. Still lots of it left in different colours.


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#84 Pablo

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 03:16 PM

Yup, that's what that is, Marklin 7100.


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#85 Pablo

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 07:43 PM

Cozine Classic, here we come

 

IMG_8920.JPG

 

IMG_8919.JPG

 


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#86 B.C.

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 08:02 PM

in the late 60's we used marklin double wire that was brown and yellow. it

 

might still be available--but haven't found it--would like to find some for

 

restoration projects.

 

b.c.


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#87 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 08:32 PM

Brian, check eBay. A father & son owned company in the Carolinas has been selling Marklin products there for 4 or 5 years.


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#88 Don Weaver

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 07:04 AM

Brian,

 

Amazon has both brown and yellow Marklin wire @ about $7.50 for 33 feet.

 

Don


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#89 tonyp

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 07:10 AM

I did not even realize it was still being made.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

1965 "Evil Bucks Racer" Team
Revtech Team Trinity
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ip


#90 Don Weaver

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 07:41 AM

Yep, I've been getting my grey wire there for four or five years now.

 

Don


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#91 Pablo

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 11:22 AM

What do you think of these FMF Russkit replica stickers ?

IMG_8921.JPG

 


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#92 Jencar17

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 11:28 AM

Guess it's # 4 :crazy:


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#93 Jairus

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 12:12 PM

Better than nothing.
 

 

Here's one I did for Jens a while back.
P1010070-vi.jpg


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#94 Pablo

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 12:27 PM

Thanks for the opinion. If they only look "better than nothing", I guess I'll hold off.

 

The "10"s on the green car are paint? Holy Cow those are so sano they look like decals.


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#95 Jairus

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 12:46 PM

No, the numbers are decals.  The other markings were painted to match a brewery logo Jen's wanted on the Porsche 908.
The numbers are off the Dynamic decal sheet btw.


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#96 Pablo

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 01:12 PM

How 'bout this, coated with floor wax ?

IMG_8923.JPG


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#97 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 01:13 PM

Thanks for the opinion. If they only look "better than nothing", I guess I'll hold off. 

 

 

That should depend upon how good "nothing" looks.  :)  Who or what is FMF? I don't recall Russkit numbers looking like those. The good thing about using a sticker is they don't have to be permanent. If you don't like the looks after they are applied, they're easily removed. I used to cut some of my numbers from colored 3M vinyl tape.

 

Back in post #73 I mentioned black & red.


Bill Fernald

Do bald men get lice?


#98 Pablo

Pablo

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 01:38 PM

FMF=Flying Slot Factory=Brian Cox

 

Agree black and red would look good, but I need to use what I have. This car isn't an exact replica so I can do that :)


Paul Wolcott

#99 Jencar17

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 02:29 PM

Jairus, do you remember the "Evesbusch" car you did for me, too!

 

:good: :good: :clapping: :clapping: :D


Jens Graf

#100 Jairus

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 02:33 PM

Oh... but of course.
Is it busted up yet?
If not, you are not trying hard enough.

 

P1010087-vi.jpg

 

P.S. if you are wishing to sell, I would LOVE to buy the chassis from you Jens.

J


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