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Lightened Parma crown gears


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#51 Noose

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 11:21 AM

JJ will start a gear lightening company now.  "No Mas" Weight.


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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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#52 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 11:49 AM

I might make a couple gears  for my hard body jalopies, but they'll be too labor-intensive to make for others. :)


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How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#53 MSwiss

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 12:12 PM

Bill we are talking about rotating mass as opposed to static weight.

Back in my bicycling days, the phrase was 1 off the wheels is like 2 off the frame.

As long as you're not dipping into reliability issues, lighter can never just on stuff like gears and wheels.
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Mike Swiss
 
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#54 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 12:13 PM

Pablo,

 

The thicker original Koford gears were a problem like that.  So are the Red Fox ones on some frames.  The new Koford ones are not a problem at all.

 

M671-28.jpg

Always had good luck with the Koford, but for some reason the boss seems soft as I strip these out on a regular basis. 


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Matt Sheldon

#55 Noose

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 12:22 PM

I have stripped Red Fox ones too.  Heavy handed. Learned it from Tony.  More damn allen wrench tips replaced too.


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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
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#56 Pablo

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 12:43 PM

After John Clow had crowns come loose a few times, I told him "If ya ain't strippin' one every now and then, ya ain't tightening 'em enough" :laugh2:


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#57 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 12:59 PM

Do we need to use Bristol spine screws once again? :good:


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#58 MSwiss

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:03 PM

I know it's harder to get your adjustment, but guys should really use flats.

Look at almost any kind of industrial motor, like you see on a table saw.

They have big ole flats ground into the shaft.

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#59 Jim Lange

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:04 PM

I have re drilled, tapped and machined the Parma gears with very limited success, not to mention it's a HUGE pain in the Arse. The Koford light weight crown is far superior and has a much better mesh right from the start. Brian does a great job on these, not sure how his time is worth so little.


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#60 Pablo

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:28 PM

I like the Koford wing car axle/gear setups where you know it's all balanced as a package


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#61 Wizard16

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:34 PM

This is rather amusing. As a mid pack racer this makes no difference to me. I can hand my car to Howie or Bryan and they'll run.5 quicker than me without any practice. Instead of spending the time on the gear, spend it on the track. There are very few drivers where this will make any difference at all.


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#62 Noose

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:35 PM

 Instead of spending the time on the gear, spend it on the track. There are very few drivers where this will make any difference at all.

Someone finally gets it.  WooHoo!


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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#63 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:44 PM

This is rather amusing. As a mid pack racer this makes no difference to me. I can hand my car to Howie or Bryan and they'll run.5 quicker than me without any practice. Instead of spending the time on the gear, spend it on the track. There are very few drivers where this will make any difference at all.

Mental feel goods help us feel victorious as well. If not then why doesn't everyone just run a white body?


Matt Sheldon

#64 Pablo

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:53 PM

My ears are burning :D  I'm destined for mid pack also, but I won't let that stop me from building the best cars I can.

Spending time on a track, for me, means a minimum of 10 hours round trip driving.

Building is instant gratification :)


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#65 tonyp

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 02:01 PM

i got my gears all cut up. I should be 3 to 4 tenths faster tomorrow.
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#66 MSwiss

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 02:12 PM

Just got the new Koford 27T's in.

They're pretty light, stock.

20160122_130917-1.jpg
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#67 kvanpelt

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 02:17 PM

LOL!



#68 The Number of

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 02:32 PM

They will be easy to send via air mail.
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#69 MSwiss

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 02:40 PM

They will be easy to send via air mail.

Yes.

 

My customers will be surprised when they see -$6.95 postage on them*. :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*and they get them the day before they ordered them.


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#70 Uncle Fred

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 04:11 PM

Imagine if you drilled them out how light they would be!


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#71 Les Boyd

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Posted 28 January 2016 - 10:30 PM

The first thing that I noticed about the Koford gear is the the mounting boss is smaller in diameter. And the set screw is shorter. That means that you will not have to cut the motor shaft to get it to clear the gear, and a reduction in weight.
But that also mesns ths t there is less material for the set screw.20160128_210608.jpg 20160128_210426.jpg

#72 Phil Hackett

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 12:04 AM

I don't have a drill press, don't want one and more than half our racers don't have one.  Ruined is the magic word.  LOL
By the time you go through all of this you might as well buy a Red Fox or Koford gear.

 

I'm guessing that all these people who build their own chassis also have Dremels and perhaps a speed controlled one at that. With a minimum of fixture building you have a cheap simple drill press. Making the the jig to hold the gear is so obvious I won't even describe  it (other than WHEN you drill the hole is important). 


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#73 Samiam

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 06:54 AM

I will simply spin on a Dremil and run a file on it. Easy peazy lemon sqeezy.

 

This should get me into the A-Main,right? :laugh2:


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#74 Upfront slot cars

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 07:36 AM

This gear talk is like wiping your A$$ with a hoola hoop, there is no end to it. I can see both sides of the the gear though. If I was retired with plenty of time on my hands, I would sure love to play around with the gears. I love a good challenge, but my time is worth a lot more than the koford and red fox gears cost. Also a lot of people should remember that when you want to run in the A main and win races , you don't pay attention to time or money. If you are hungry to win , you will do what ever it takes to come up with what you need. I learned this a long time ago racing 1/1 cars.
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#75 A. J. Hoyt

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 11:35 AM

Interesting pair of photos, Les. With those photos, everyone should now easily see that the thickness of the sleeve is useless to the set screw as that part is not tapped. This is why the diameter of the Parma hub is bigger - to get a proper number of turns in the tapped hole to engage the set screw.
 
Once the dimensions of the Parma hub was set (intended to be used with a 1/8" axle), the sleeve was necessary for what is, arguably, the most common use - on 3/32" axles.
 
If folks at Parma wanted to, they could make a smaller diameter hub that could only be used for the 3/32" axles, like the Koford and Red Fox gears but, at this point, would require a new investment in tooling. I think that would reduce the weight enough that there would be parity between the gears but it seems it is too much to ask. Now, it will seem that everyone at every level will have this nagging pull to modify their Parma gears to be competitive.
 
For those of us who used to love just buying a gear and going from package to race car, we will now have another excuse for why we are not as fast as the guys with the drilled gears ...
 
The truth is closer to Diana's post #61.

Never complacent - striving to race to ever increasing levels of mediocrity!

 

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