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Ursaner 1967 Arco replica


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 15 February 2016 - 01:07 AM

Before I lift a single finger to start this Pablo build, the history has to be understood. Otherwise, it would just be another shiny vintage replica slot car :)

 

Howie Ursaner was a young slot car designer in 1967, employed by Cobra.

 

Even today, Howie is a world class driver. I watched him win the F1 Main at Chicagoland Sano VI 2012 (with a Mike Iles chassis).

 

8067110124_d7c1b8fde4.jpg

 

Zero deslots in the entire race  :o

 

My mentor Rick Thigpen recently finished a re-creation of the car Howie built for the 1967 Arco Nationals race in Atlanta. It's headed for the Los Angeles Slot Car Museum. Rick already did the hard work, I'm just a copycat along for the ride.

 

This is more than just a slot car.  :D

 

Next step is parts gathering.


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#2 Pablo

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Posted 15 February 2016 - 04:55 PM

I decided on an Outisight Lotus 40. It's Lexan, affordable, nice quality, and easy to obtain.

WB 3 7/8, GL 3/4

IMG_9680.JPG

 

Noose interior, Tom Andersen Lotus wheel inserts, Koford big head body pins and some decals.

The Havlicek 65/30 armature is under construction. I picked 2 can choices, both have BB's installed.

A Tradeship endbell, 36D hoods, Big Foot II brushes, Champion Light springs, Professor Motor post protectors

IMG_9684.JPG


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 15 February 2016 - 07:17 PM

Russkit replica wheels, EJ's #15 front tires, Weldun 29 crown, Sonic 7T solder-on steel pinion.

Genuine Russkit bracket, Dynamic bushings, Champion steel spacers, PCH 1/8 axles

IMG_9690.JPG


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#4 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 February 2016 - 07:46 PM

Nice little collection of parts gathered for the build Pablo :good:

Love the Lotus 40 shape and look forward to seeing you work you magic ::D

#5 Pablo

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Posted 15 February 2016 - 07:59 PM

Thanks Paul. No magic here, just a lot of work and good tools :)

Side note; I have a TrueScale Lotus 40, but the sides are curved inward and the width is <3".

The Outisight is an honest 3" wide and the sides are more vertical. One of the main reasons I chose it for this build over the TrueScale.

Not sayin' there is anything wrong with the TS, just sayin' :good:

Wheelbase on both is 3 7/8.


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 17 February 2016 - 04:33 PM

One of my custom vintage cars needed fresh donuts yesterday, and I realized something:

I need to be able to remove wheels and inserts without damage.

In other words, the cars shouldn't need new inserts each time the wheels need new tires.

I got lucky; all inserts popped right off with zero damage.

They were glued to the axles only, so I plan to use that same method on this car, and perfect it even more.

 

These Lotus inserts had big variations in width (depth) and OD, flashing on the edges, etc.

IMG_9709.JPG

 

I cleaned and blueprinted them before painting.

The narrowest of all four miked at .097, so that became the target width.

Smallest OD was .488 so yada yada...

IMG_9713.JPG

 

This time, when they come to the hilt at the axle they will all be exactly the same depth in the hubs.

No fumbling or guessing. No masking this time because the only glue point will be the ends of the axles

IMG_9719.JPG


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#7 SlotStox#53

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Posted 17 February 2016 - 07:28 PM

Nice job on blue printing the inserts :good: realized my R&C cars inserts are glued to the wheels, luckily their sponge is still fresh so all good.

The glue point on the axle is a perfect idea :)

#8 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 February 2016 - 08:33 PM

Rubber cement (not contact cement) from a craft store would probably work too on the wheel inserts. In the days before double sided sticky tapes, that's how lead weight was added to a chassis & still be removable, when wanted.


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#9 dc-65x

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 11:33 AM

This stuff also works well and is removable:

 

245639-permatex-81730-flowable-silicone-windshield-glass-sealer-15-oz-tube.jpg


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#10 Pablo

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 04:42 PM

Thank you, gentlemen :)

Onward to my brass rod party. Only the straightest make it past the quality control bouncers

DSC01189.JPG

 

Must have been a good batch, because only one piece failed the test

IMG_9735.JPG


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 18 February 2016 - 06:39 PM

The Mike Morrissey article solders the bushing assemblies in first, followed by piano wire bracing later.

Every time you solder wire to brass, something moves a little. So I braced my bracket first.

.039 wires on the face and .063 rod "gear guard" brace

IMG_9748.JPG

 


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 06:15 PM

My version of the motor bracket. It ain't pretty, but it's right

IMG_9756.JPG


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#13 SlotStox#53

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 06:40 PM

Nothing wrong with that braced bracket :good: Looks like it should, and ready to rock!



#14 Pablo

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 09:23 PM

Thanks, Paul for appreciating the work involved :good:

Dynamic bushings and Russkit motor bracket are original antique items gifted by Rick Thigpen  :swoon: 


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#15 SlotStox#53

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 09:42 PM

Those Dynamic bushings are cool, being I think, 3/16 × 1/8 ? An improvement over running in bare tubing .

Will have to find the right build for the Russkit bracket sitting in the parts vault :)

#16 Pablo

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Posted 20 February 2016 - 08:44 AM

3/16", right. Their length makes perfect alignment difficult, especially on a flimsy .025 bracket. Every time I even look at my Ungar they move :crazy:

Getting some rails on will help.....


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#17 bluecars

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Posted 20 February 2016 - 08:54 PM

Looking great! I see from post #10 that you have plenty of supervision. That's good. You need watching. LOL!!!


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 07:45 PM

H Armature has arrived :dance3:

IMG_9826.JPG


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#19 dc-65x

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 09:16 PM

Another beauty from "The H-Man". It will have a great home. :good:


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#20 SlotStox#53

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Posted 27 February 2016 - 07:47 PM

Tasty! ! Looks fast just sitting there :D

What magnets are you using Pablo? Can't remember if you said.. Epx?

#21 Pablo

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Posted 27 February 2016 - 08:07 PM

Thanks, guys :)

Paul, magnets will be modern Pro Slot Speed FX 16D. For vintage 16D motors I've found that any standard modern 16D magnet will work fine.

They have plenty of strength. The trick is placement, since their size and shape is usually different than the vintage cans.

That is where shim creativity comes into play......


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#22 Slot Car Mods Magazine

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Posted 27 February 2016 - 10:25 PM

Way kOoL build, looking forward to seeing the finished ride...

 

:good:


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 28 February 2016 - 07:00 AM

36D hoods soldered and wire tabs tinned

IMG_9892.JPG

 

I usually drill my can hole and endbell with the same pilot bit, that way the holes match perfectly.

But this chrome can had pre-existing .055 holes, so I drilled 'em out to .063 and used .063 tubing as a guide to center the EB pilot.

A .035 bit fit inside the tube nice and snug

IMG_9897.JPG

 

Perfect pilot

IMG_9898.JPG

 

Then I removed the gizmo and enlarged it to .040 which made a nice home for the .058-ish threads

IMG_9912.JPG

 

 


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#24 Pablo

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Posted 28 February 2016 - 10:26 AM

The H arm loves it's new home, sounds great !

IMG_9918.JPG


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 02:48 PM

Rails were a piece of cake, thanks to dc-65x for crystal clear photos of the museum car :good:

Deciding which rails do what and go where by looking at a 47 year old magazine article isn't easy :dash2:

Rick, I didn't have any problems with my Champion steel washers, either. Piece of cake, again, thanks to you :sun_bespectacled:

IMG_9942.JPG


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#26 Pablo

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 05:38 PM

Out of the jig for solder touch ups, cleaning, and a check for flat and true on my best block before proceeding

IMG_9961.JPG

 

 


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 07:45 PM

I used my flattest block to tack on the .025 brass sheet rail pieces. Then, time for a sandwich :D

IMG_9967.JPG


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#28 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 08:51 PM

You need to use a granite surface plate to check for real flatness. Maybe cheater will give you a deal on his. :)


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#29 dc-65x

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 09:51 PM

It's looking beautiful Pablo! :good:

 

Here's a granite surface plate such as Bill is referring to. It's nice and small at 6"X8"X2":

 

granite surface plate.jpg

 

Granite Surface Plate On eBay

 

This is a great plate to use to check for flatness after you've soldered the chassis on your jig.


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#30 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 10:04 PM

Sizewise, it would work great, pricewise, I'd need more information on these particular plates as to their grade.


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 10:48 PM

It's nothing super duper tool room grade Bill but it should be good for slot car use and affordable:

 

"This tool room grade "B" Granite Plate has a bilateral accuracy of plus or minus .0001" total instrument runout for precision measurements from a common surface base."


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#32 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 11:39 PM

The eBay price is $46.38. If you get one direct from Grizzly Tools, where the eBay seller said his came from, the price is $21.50. I bought 2"X9"X12" grade "B" plate years ago from Lee Valley Tools. Today, it sells for $39.50.


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My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#33 dc-65x

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Posted 03 March 2016 - 11:47 PM

That's great Bill. Thanks for finding a cheaper source.


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 10:23 AM

Here's mine.

IMG_9978.JPG

 

But, the Q/A Inspector says the white "Precision Slot Cars" block is just as flat, if not flatter, than my $5 granite monster.


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#35 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 11:03 AM

Maybe that white block has been laser ground flat by Precision. You could tell definitely one way or the other with the use of a quality straightedge. One of my friends here use to grind the bottoms of his chassis with a Sears 6x48 stationary belt sander. His cars were always competitive race cars.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#36 Pablo

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 01:02 PM

Marklin Train wires and 7T Sonic solder-on steel pinion ready

IMG_9984.JPG


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#37 havlicek

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Posted 05 March 2016 - 07:49 AM

It all looks pretty danged great to me!  Build-on there Pablo!  

 

-john


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#38 Pablo

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Posted 06 March 2016 - 01:09 AM

Inside decals

IMG_9993.JPG

 

The rear gumball numbers sit in awkward positions. If I had Micro-Set I could fix those creases, but it's only a $6 body.

I'll just keep giving them light brush coats of Faux Glaze until I'm confident the paint won't seep under them.


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#39 Pablo

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Posted 06 March 2016 - 02:45 PM

I'm surprised nobody caught my error in the first photo of post 23.

I can imagine the email "Hey, the motor on this thing just quit running" :laugh2:

Anyway, first (rough) cut on the rear wheels. I like to let them settle and cure for an extra day before the final trim/true

IMG_0004.JPG


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 11:21 AM

Wheels, inserts, and axles ready to go

IMG_0007.JPG


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#41 dc-65x

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 01:29 PM

Looks great Pablo. I like the way the front tires turned out. Are they all the way down to 3/4"? They look very vintage Pro car. :victory:


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 02:47 PM

Thanks ! Yup, EJ's #15's, .760 OD, and the oranges are .885 OD, about 9/16 wide tread.


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#43 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 02:59 PM

These days those orange tires look so bad, but that's the way it was back then.

 

Looks great I want to see it track ready.


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#44 SlotStox#53

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 02:59 PM

Mmmm, fresh orange sponge and EJ's #15 perfect combination :good: wheel trims look really good against the orange & shiny rim :)
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#45 Pablo

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Posted 07 March 2016 - 07:19 PM

.065 hypodermic stainless steel in 3/32 tubes for drop arm hinge

IMG_0015.JPG


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#46 Pablo

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 05:18 PM

Before I got too deep into the drop arm assembly, I checked the flag tube.

A Tongue Tweeker doesn't work too well on this type setup, so I used a nut and bolt.

Made a slight correction for right/left and fore/aft. Now I can move on with confidence

IMG_0025.JPG


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#47 Pablo

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 01:10 PM

Drop arm is done. I wanted to get the down stop done to make sure nothing moves.

I'm going set it aside while I do the body management, just like dc-65x did.

 

Howie obviously thought this arm out well. No wonder he may have taken it off another chassis - it's a keeper.

By making the inner rails same width as the tube, once all the other rails are placed, it tuns out to have about .063 spacing between the arm and inner main rails.

Also, the flag stop rods are much easier to make than Cukras-style stops.

 

IMG_0038.JPG

 

IMG_0042.JPG


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#48 dc-65x

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 10:30 PM

Very nice Pablo. :sun_bespectacled:

 

Looks like you'll have just a little bit of drop arm travel. From Howie's test of my car, that should be a good thing.


Rick Thigpen
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#49 Pablo

Pablo

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 01:52 PM

Thanks Capt. Rick, I hope so :)

Your RGeo jig setup was so SANO, maybe somebody will get a kick out of how we do it down here in the slums :crazy:

I put a pair of 063 pins on the widest of the small holes. Outside of the pins is 3.00, inside is 2.875.

I soldered my body management rods butted up to the insides of the pins, giving me .063 overhang for the pin tubes/hinge rods

IMG_0048.JPG

 

Then taped .063 wire on the outsides of the upper rods. This outside edge is exactly 3.00 width

IMG_0051.JPG

 

The wire serves as the trimming point for the pin tubes/hinge rods.

Not only does it show me exactly where to cut, when sparks fly off the cutting wheel you know you're there :laugh2:

IMG_0053.JPG

 

Perfect 2.995 pin tube widths

IMG_0055.JPG

 

 


Paul Wolcott

#50 bluecars

bluecars

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 04:16 PM

Alright then. :good:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 






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