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Mura Champion McLaren


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#51 Pablo

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Posted 05 April 2016 - 07:02 PM

Motor gets a tune up before going into the new chassis.
-Despite light springs, brush wear seemed fast, so I opened up the hole from .530 to .538.  
-Pre-radiused new Koford BF II brushes and a fresh coat of paint on the can.
-For some time now, I've been wishing I had specified "no arm dye" on my vintage arms. Hershman told me lacquer thinner takes it right off.  Goodby arm dye.

-Arm cleanup with mineral spirits, and a comm polish.
-New custom cut and polished 8T Sonic pinion ready to rock the Faas spur.
 

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Paul Wolcott




#52 Pablo

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Posted 08 April 2016 - 08:41 AM

Out of the tumbler, weight 71.7 G

 

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#53 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 April 2016 - 10:25 AM

Really sweet looking chassis Pablo :good:

Love all the details like the front axles, solid drop arm it really has "the look" :D

No specific rules either has produced a very cool car.

#54 Pablo

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Posted 08 April 2016 - 04:55 PM

Thanks Paul. It feels good to do things a little differently sometimes :D

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Whoops, forgot to clear coat the Mura sticker :laugh2:

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I think the motor is happy - in the drivetrain test, amps were steadily dropping from the "no load" test 3 days ago - it also ran cooler. Go figure.

Maybe someone has a good explanation or theory for that - I don't :o One thing is for sure - if this thing hooks up, hide the women and children

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Lower motor brace is about as far away from the gears as I could make it, to preclude unwanted movement

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This time I got smart and used Micro Set and Micro Sol on the inside decals where they have to negotiate creases.

I'm betting it's compatible with the 3 coats of Faux Glaze, but we'll see

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#55 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 08 April 2016 - 05:51 PM

Looking great Pablo.

 

I wonder what color he will put on that body?


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#56 Pablo

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Posted 08 April 2016 - 06:23 PM

Thanks Eddie. My color choice may surprise you a little :)


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#57 bluecars

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Posted 09 April 2016 - 07:04 AM

A nice shade of BLUE would be nice. :sarcastic_hand:  Great build as always Pablo. :good:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#58 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 09 April 2016 - 09:01 AM

Black?


Eddie Fleming

#59 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 April 2016 - 09:14 AM

Have you sent it to Bill to paint that pink color he threatened in the beginning? :laugh2:

#60 Pablo

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Posted 09 April 2016 - 02:44 PM

Paul, Bill is an awesome (!!!) painter, but I'll wait until I need a body painted for a pink Minnie Watson car before I call in that marker :D

bluecars' guess was almost right, but no cookie for him today.

 

I'm waiting for the (sloppily brushed on) black enamel on the radiator, intake stacks, and vents to fully dry before trying out my new Iwata.

Been watching Mitch Lowther and Kirk Lybecker videos on You Tube all day.....


Paul Wolcott

#61 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 April 2016 - 03:09 PM

Have you sent it to Bill to paint that pink color he threatened in the beginning? :laugh2:

 

Paul, I had to go back & re-read what I posted. :sarcastic_hand: I wrote silver & white with fluorescent pink numbers. If Pablo sends that body, he has to include the Iwata too. I've never used a "Cadillac airbrush." :) It would have been mentioned in my original post, but he didn't own one back then


Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#62 Pablo

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Posted 09 April 2016 - 05:08 PM

I just found a tutorial on blueprinting an Iwata Eclipse airbrush, so it may be some time before I spray the body.

Seems the color of paint has generated more interest than the actual car :popcorm1: :)


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#63 Pablo

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 01:50 PM

The Iwata works super :good:

As a test, I made a paint color swatch for the body on a piece of 10 thou Lexan.

My plan was to make it my spoiler if it turned out well, which it did.

75% Parma Fasred mixed with 25% Model Master Fluorescent Red, backed with Model Master Silver

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Paul Wolcott

#64 Pablo

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 04:38 PM

Inside decals: my Micro Set/Micro Sol technique worked "OK", not great. It has room for improvement.

Right side #4 isn't completely flush, but the Faux Glaze did it's job - no paint seeped under the decals

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New Iwata airbrush was easy to work with, and easy to clean.

3 light coats of acrylic paint, backed with silver

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Paul Wolcott

#65 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 05:04 PM

On my monitor that is so red!

 

It is so WRONG.

 

and so good. 

 

Nice job.


Eddie Fleming

#66 Pablo

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 05:16 PM

Thanks Eddie :) I hope it will look even better after I trim it and install the interior :D


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#67 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 09:05 PM

That red looks great, but will have Zippity rolling in his grave. :laugh2:

 

What did you have to do to blueprint the Eclipse? :unknw: I might want to try it on an Aztek.


Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#68 Zippity

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 09:37 PM

Hey!!  I'm still alive and above ground :laugh2: :laugh2:



#69 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 05:57 AM

Pablo

 How wide and long is that chassis and how well does it fit under that body?


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#70 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 06:04 AM

My guess has been that was sized to fit a flexi chassis so it has plenty of width & length under it. I've got the O/S McLaren that's made the same way.


Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#71 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 06:15 AM

Bill

 

The O/S McLaren I have is rather short for a 4" car. It may be a different # than you have.


Eddie Fleming

#72 Pablo

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 06:44 AM

Bill, here is the link for airbrushtutor's video. I didn't do it exactly like he did, but the idea of making your brush "the best it can be" can't hurt

 

Eddie, glad you asked. Normally I post that info. WB 3 7/8, GL 7/8, width 3 1/8. I always begin my builds with the body so of course it fits like a glove.

Plenty of vertical space too, since it's a C motor.


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#73 Pablo

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 05:38 PM

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#74 Pablo

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 12:19 PM

Micro Set/Micro Sol combined with Faux Glaze inside decals final results: Not good.

Conclusion: Unsure. Micro Set/Sol are proven products but I wasn't using them as designed, so I can't blame them.

I'm not sure what to think. Maybe they just aren't compatible with the Faux Glaze.

I'll continue experimenting later.....for now I simply applied (outside) #4 gum ball stickers over them.

This car wasn't intended to be a Concours winner - it's a racehorse.

 

I did, however, remember to clearcoat the Mura sticker this time :dance3: Too bad the arrow isn't pointing the right direction :crazy:

Hopefully it will aggravate the same people who don't like the non-orange paint color :laugh2:

This car is all about putting lots of power to the ground and being driveable. Ready for track test

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#75 Half Fast

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 12:44 PM

Very interesting design!

 

I wonder how the chassis would work:

 

1- With the sprung front wheels

 

2- With the wheels locked down and touching.

 

3- With the wheels locked up and not touching.

 

Food for thought

 

Cheers


Bill Botjer

Faster then, wiser now


#76 Pablo

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 01:45 PM

Thanks Bill :) You may want to re-read posts # 42 and 43.

These designs, the Diamond, the full plumber, etc.  were all proven over 40 years ago and they still rock today.

 

I've built cars with this PdL designed Diamond wishbone-type front axles/wheels assembly before.  IMO it's a brilliant design.

Here are my opinions:

1. They work outstanding. Imagine a brain up front that applies gentle and progressive corrective pressure to both wheels as the chassis leans.

2.  They would suck exactly like hard touching fronts always do. But if you wanted them locked down and touching, you wouldn't use this design anyway.

3.  Not as well as #1. Probably about the same as both #2 and #3. Again, if you wanted them locked down and touching, you wouldn't use this design anyway.


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#77 bluecars

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 05:52 PM

OUTSTANDING!!! (even if it's not blue) :good: :good: :good:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#78 Pablo

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 06:25 PM

bluecars (Red), I thought you would be tickled pink if it was red :laugh2:

Whatever color it is, bring your flak jacket when this baby hits the track :bomb:

Shake n Bake :aggressive:


Paul Wolcott

#79 Bill from NH

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 09:34 PM

Pablo, I bet it took more time to cut out the back of the body than it took to do the complete paint job. If it were me, I'd have placed .032 piano wire reinforcements back there too. :laugh2: Over the years, I think I've seen more red slot cars than any other color. I've even painted some myself, but not for my own use. I've always preferred yellow or white with a second contrasting color.

 

I won't judge Havlicek's armature, but in my wing car days, I kept one Mura 26 ga. arm just to run on short, low powered, tracks where it was  very competitive, but that was glue racing with orange rears. :)


Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#80 Dennis David

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Posted 12 April 2016 - 10:03 PM

Paul, except for the body, how does that chassis handle compared to a current retro chassis?

BTW, this is how our retro bodies should look.

Dennis David
    
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#81 Pablo

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 08:02 AM

Dennis, it wouldn't be a fair comparison no matter how you slice or dice it.

Inline vs. anglewinder, 15 thou front/50 thou rear clearance vs. .063 level clearance, big powerful motor vs. small light motor, etc.

Too many variables. All I can tell you is, drive one and draw your own conclusions.

 

One thing is for sure - cars like this will amaze you with both speed, and how hot you can enter a turn :D


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#82 Pablo

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 08:07 AM

Pablo, I bet it took more time to cut out the back of the body than it took to do the complete paint job

Yup :laugh2:  Paper hole punch, Scalpel, Dremel sanding, and 3 grades of sandpaper.

I was planning to install screens back there but once the decals started lifting I decided not to bother.


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#83 dc-65x

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 11:45 AM

Looks fantastic Pablo. You're having too much fun! :D


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#84 Pablo

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 01:37 PM

:D Thanks Capt. Rick :D

I can hardly wait to pull the trigger on the blue Mura "H Bomb" motor once again :dance3:

The completed car's weight is almost exactly the same as the Batmobile was.

But this time, it's much lower and more centralized. If need be I can always fill that drop arm void with lead at ground zero B:)


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#85 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 02:45 PM

Strategically placed weight on the pans will probably work better. I never added drop arm weight to a slot car built with a 1 1/4" .040 drop arm.  :)


Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#86 Pablo

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Posted 08 May 2016 - 06:22 PM

Track test results: no problems. Motor has gobs of power, runs very cool, handles great :sun_bespectacled:

This car will be announced "for sale" after I clean it up.


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#87 Pablo

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 10:49 AM

Re-tumbled, cleaned and lubed.

- red arm dye

- new shunt wires and spring insulators

- new lead wires

- new aluminum flag nut

 

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Ready for sale in "Racer's Swap Shop" forum.

 


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