Jump to content




Photo

The Mysterion build


  • Please log in to reply
48 replies to this topic

#1 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 01 April 2016 - 12:51 PM

I have always loved the wild and crazy creations of Ed "Big Daddy" Roth and can't help but want to create some of these to race around the track with.  Previously I have done both the Beatnic Bandit and the Road Agent and now I'm tackling the Mysterion.  

 

The chassis I have chosen is from Checkered Flag because the lightening holes mimic somewhat the Mysterion's chassis.chassis.jpg

 

 

Then a quick mockup to see how it might look and what changes might be required to either the model or the chassis.mysterionmockup1.jpg


  • Pablo, Jencar17, NSwanberg and 1 other like this
Dave Roberts




#2 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 01 April 2016 - 01:02 PM

The mockup shows that the chassis appears too far back in the body and the front part of the chassis is too wide for the front portion of the body.  So I built up the model chassis to get a better sense of the differences between the two and then began to modify the chassis to be a better fit.  I added new axel bearing holes rearward of the originals and Z'd the frame up front to better represent the actual car front end.   chassismod.jpg


  • slotbaker, Pablo, Jencar17 and 4 others like this
Dave Roberts

#3 Slot Car Mods Magazine

Slot Car Mods Magazine

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Joined: 25-February 16
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada

Posted 01 April 2016 - 08:24 PM

The mockup shows that the chassis appears too far back in the body and the front part of the chassis is too wide for the front portion of the body.  So I built up the model chassis to get a better sense of the differences between the two and then began to modify the chassis to be a better fit.  I added new axel bearing holes rearward of the originals and Z'd the frame up front to better represent the actual car front end.   attachicon.gifchassismod.jpg

 

That is just too kOoL Detroit Dave, I'm a huge Ed "Big Daddy" Roth fan myself, and was fortunate enough to meet the man himself...   :good:

 

I'll be keeping an eye on this one...

 

All the best...

 

Ron...


Ron Todhunter
-----------------------------------------
SLOT CAR MODS MAGAZINE
"Everybody's Slot Car Magazine"
info@slotcarmods.com
-----------------------------------------
signature175_zps5czapfuq.gif


#4 Pete L.

Pete L.

    Posting Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,335 posts
  • Joined: 02-September 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NJ

Posted 02 April 2016 - 03:41 PM

Dave,

 

 What a really cool concept, I always thought these customs were fantastic, and to build them as slot cars is awesome !!!! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:


Peter J. Linszky

C.A.R.S. Vintage Slot Car Club

#5 dc-65x

dc-65x

    Posting Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,915 posts
  • Joined: 14-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Captain Rick: The only vintage slot car nut in SW Oregon?

Posted 02 April 2016 - 08:22 PM

Looking good. Thanks for sharing it with us.


Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#6 idare2bdul

idare2bdul

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,629 posts
  • Joined: 06-March 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Garner, NC

Posted 02 April 2016 - 09:19 PM

Great combination of a vintage chassis combined with creativity.


The light at the end of the tunnel is almost always a train.
Mike Boemker

#7 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 04 April 2016 - 09:34 AM

Topview.jpg Sideview.jpg

Thanks for all of the great words of encouragement.  I had some good opportunity over the weekend to move the project along and have started to mate the body to the chassis.  My plan is to use the lateral rods that hold the two frame sides together to hold the body firmly to the chassis.  So I began by putting styrene tubes around the threaded rods.  Then I added the necessary clearance between the motor/chassis and the interior tray for the body.  Once I had the clearance I need I used styrene sheet stock of various thicknesses to add structure to bridge between the tubes and the body.   Lots of trial and error until I have a solid structure from one end of the body to other picking up each of the three styrene tubes.  


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#8 NSwanberg

NSwanberg

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 939 posts
  • Joined: 01-April 09
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canton, MI

Posted 05 April 2016 - 11:38 PM

As I remember mysterion was a difficult model to build. Still it was one of my faves. As I understand it the actual car's frame broke owing to the weight of the vehicle and was soon parted out and destroyed. mysterion did make an appearance in a movie.

 

Good luck on the project!

 

http://www.hotrod.co...custom-hot-rod/


Remember the Steube bar!
SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL RACEWAY!!
"The denial of denial is the first sign of denial." Hank, from Corner Gas
Nelson Swanberg

Peace be with all of us and good racing for the rest of us.
Have controller. Will travel. Slot Car Heaven
Posted Image

#9 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 07 April 2016 - 09:21 AM

I would certainly agree with the difficulty of the build.  I built the frame as a way to line up my chassis and I was glad I wasn't trying to build it with integrity because the number of fragile chrome components which need to come together just right had a way of getting glue to end up where I didn't want it!  Luckily the body build is much more straight forward from what I can see so far.  Here is the latest view of the progress.

 rough.jpg

The body and mounting locations have been roughed in with styrene and the chassis layout has been put together to see what issues arise.  In all of my builds I find I tend to lack insight into some of the challenges I will face down the road as I forge ahead.  

 


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#10 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 07 April 2016 - 09:37 AM

So here is the latest challenge.  The re-positioning of the rear axle has stretched the distance beyond any of my gear choices.  The largest pinion and spur combination I have (20T and 50T) doesn't come close.  

oh no.jpg

The possible resolutions are to 1. use a friction drive. ( I drilled out a silicon HO wheel and tried this out and although it will work it is likely to be temperamental and highly subject to fine tuning and will require some body mods I don't want to do.)

frictiondrive.jpg

Or to use a larger spur gear in the place of the pinion which will result in a non-optimal gear ration of close to 1.5:1.

pinionspur.jpg

Still doing some more homework on possible larger spur gear from a RC car.  

 

 

 


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#11 Dave Crevie

Dave Crevie

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 617 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 09

Posted 07 April 2016 - 03:50 PM

You can get larger spur gears in brass. Look for Kemtron or K&B at a swap meet or on the web. You can also

get larger pinions. 

 

Back when I was a kid I built a Beatnik Bandit on a Kemtron frame similar to what you are using. I used the

smaller size Pitman padlock motor. The body was not legal for competition, so I made a few runs during open

practice. On the first run, most of the small detail parts came off in the chute. The second run removed the

motor. Soon all that was left was the main body section. So I put an Ala Kart body on the chassis, which was

legal. I still have most of it.  



#12 Lone Wolf

Lone Wolf

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,089 posts
  • Joined: 03-March 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mineola, NY

Posted 07 April 2016 - 04:38 PM

Dave, good stuff. I love any model/slot conversion.

 

Are you using those rear wheels? If so, I would use a Cox/similar pinion gear without the set screw boss. You can file out the slots in the chassis to move the motor back. This will allow you to sneak the pinion past the wheel for a good mesh. You most likely will have to shorten the motor shaft at the pinion side as well. The cross member behind the motor will have to be relocated slightly to the rear or front of the motor, whatever seems more sturdy.

 

You can also add a length of 1/8" I.D. brass tube that fits snugly between the oilites to prevent the chassis from being distorted when the free play is set. It could even be soldered to the bushings for strength.

 

Whenever you get too big on the spur you have the issue of possible track contact. Track owners kind of frown on such things :)


  • olescratch likes this

Joe Lupo


#13 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 08 April 2016 - 08:34 AM

Thanks Joe and Dave for the great input.  

 

The picture at the top of my last post was taken before I started digging through my parts bin for alternatives.  The spur gear shown is a COX 48T.  The largest I could find in my box or on the web was a 50T 48P brass gear with some lightening holes.  It was only slightly larger than the Cox because I believe the outside diameter is limited as Joe points out by the overall rear wheel tire combination which is typically 1.25" or less.  Luckily for me I  chose the Dynamic rears which come in at just about 1.375"  which leaves me an opportunity to go a bit further before I create a car that chatters it's way down the track and get's me thrown out of my favorite slot car track for life!   So I am planning a trip to the RC store over the weekend.  If someone is aware of 48P spur gear somewhere between 1.25 and 1.3"  I would love to get my hands on one.  It is often hard to get parts at most hobby stores unless you have a a particular brand and product model number.  

 

Unfortunately I have already limited my options somewhat significantly by my body build.  The pocket for the motor and the mounting for the body are firmly attached to the body and so I want to eliminate all other resolutions ahead of tearing it all out and starting over.

I'll try to take a picture this weekend showing the situation to make it more understandable.

 

 

I love the idea of adding a brass tube over the rear axle soldered to the bushings to keep all this lined up properly.  The chassis is not inherently rigid and this will help a ton.  

 

Joe, I would love to see the Ala Kart!  Here is a couple pictures of my Bandit build.  Probably one of favorite cars from the sixties.

 

The finished car

Bandit1.jpg

 

During the build showing the chassis

bandit2.jpg

 

Thanks again. 

 

 

 


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#14 Lone Wolf

Lone Wolf

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,089 posts
  • Joined: 03-March 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mineola, NY

Posted 08 April 2016 - 12:11 PM

Dave, that was the other Dave with the Kart.

 

Anyway, looked through my spurs for you, nothing bigger than 48T. I've shown this Dynamic set up. To modify your set up in a similar way may be you only other option if you want to leave the motor where it is. Should be able to fit an idler gear in there on your chassis.  

 

DSC08625.JPG


  • Jencar17 likes this

Joe Lupo


#15 Dave Crevie

Dave Crevie

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 617 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 09

Posted 08 April 2016 - 03:58 PM

I would have to dig through my stuff to see if I have any 48 pitch spurs bigger than 50T. I have 64 pitch

up to 66, I would have to measure one to see how big it is for O.D.

 

The Ala Kart will probably get restored, most likely after Mike Swiss gets his drag strip running. Right now 

I am concentrating on getting the road coarse cars done. 



#16 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 11 April 2016 - 09:37 AM

Thanks for looking through the gears gents.  I went to the local hobby shop and they helped me to find a suitable RC gear with 60T and 48p.  I also ordered a slightly larger 66T gear but it may be just a little too large for the rear wheel.  The 60T reaches but only just.  I had to modify the RC gear with a 1/8 ID brass tube to take out the slop on the axel and epoxied in a 5-40 nut in the hex shaped pocket so it can be firmly connected to the threaded axle.  

rcgear.jpg

 

Everything was put on the chassis jig to make sure it was square.

jig.jpg

 

And the final bits were added to clean up the body mods.  So we are now ready to move to the next step of paint!

ready.jpg


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#17 Jairus

Jairus

    Body Painter Extraordinaire

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,016 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Salem, OR

Posted 11 April 2016 - 10:27 AM

Looks really good Dave!
Hardest, but most fun part is paint and detailing.  Take your time and let the paint dry.
 


  • Maximo likes this

Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

www.slotcarsmag.com

www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#18 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 11 April 2016 - 12:12 PM

Thanks for the great words of wisdom Jairus.  It is sometimes hard to slow down at this point.  I decided on enamel because the vintage Roth Mysterion yellow comes as enamel.  I purchased a bottle of it off of eBay this past week.  Hope it can be utilized.

Here is the plan:

 

Light sanding of the model surfaces to remove small imperfections and stray glue done last night.

Mild detergent wash this morning to remove mold releases and finger grime.

 

Tuesday-Wednesday (when the weather clears up) a light coating of Duplicolor black sandable primer to seal and provide a contrast for final fairing with 1200 grid.  

 

Next week re-apply a fine coat of primer to coat all areas exposed through the final fairing.

 

Let dry - How long before Model Master Chrome Silver 1790 spray can base coat is applied?

 

Let Dry - Airbrush light coat of Roth Candy yellow over the silver until desired color is achieved.

 

Any thoughts on what to change in my plan or things to watch out for?


Dave Roberts

#19 Jairus

Jairus

    Body Painter Extraordinaire

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,016 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Salem, OR

Posted 11 April 2016 - 01:31 PM

Chrome spray applied light can be touched in a few hours. But it's soft and will leave fingerprints.  24+ is better.
Frankly, I would give all enamel a few days to fully cure.
First day in a warm dry non dust environment.
After that it can be moved outside in the sun for the rest of the curing period.


A lot of guys use food dryers to fully cure enamel.
Then they sand with polishing kits... if need be.
Some colors, including the wonderful Model Master clear Lacquer do not require any polishing.
Tamiya TS-13 is the same... but a bit hotter and you need to build up the coats starting with 3 dry coats about 60 minutes apart followed by 3 progressively heavier coats.
Then allow a day or two for curing before polishing if needed.

Painting hard bodies are a lesson in patience so I separate everything into assemblies so I can be working on one thing while another is drying.
But that's me.


  • olescratch likes this

Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

www.slotcarsmag.com

www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#20 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 11 April 2016 - 02:54 PM

I'll have to get my but in gear on some additional builds to get the assembly line going!  


Dave Roberts

#21 Lone Wolf

Lone Wolf

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,089 posts
  • Joined: 03-March 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mineola, NY

Posted 11 April 2016 - 04:01 PM

These pics are not great but I almost never use enamel unless absolutely necessary. Except for the Monogram slots these are all awaiting final assembly or foiling etc. I use anything I have laying around, Plasti-Kote, Tamiya, Dupli-Color, etc. The '55 is enamel pearl topcoat. Everything here shot right out of the rattle can.

 

DSC08647.JPG

 

DSC08648.JPG

 

DSC08649.JPG


  • slotbaker and Jencar17 like this

Joe Lupo


#22 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 12 April 2016 - 07:17 AM

These look great,  I hope I get similar results!  I also typically use Tamiya or Testor One Coat lacquers as my paint of choice.  But would like to start clearing some of the enamels out of my paint cabinet as well.  


Dave Roberts

#23 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 14 April 2016 - 07:44 AM

Taking the chassis to the track today to work out the bugs and see how the gearing ratio performs.  The body is ready for primer/sealer now and I'm starting to determine my strategies for the extensive amounts of chrome bits on the twin motors.  I typically like to add internal wires or pins to add strength to the components unless I want to leave a little of the car on the track every time I run them.  

primed.jpg sideview.jpg


  • slotbaker, Jencar17, Samiam and 2 others like this
Dave Roberts

#24 Slot Car Mods Magazine

Slot Car Mods Magazine

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Joined: 25-February 16
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada

Posted 14 April 2016 - 08:07 AM

Way too kOoL...


Ron Todhunter
-----------------------------------------
SLOT CAR MODS MAGAZINE
"Everybody's Slot Car Magazine"
info@slotcarmods.com
-----------------------------------------
signature175_zps5czapfuq.gif


#25 Dave Crevie

Dave Crevie

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 617 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 09

Posted 14 April 2016 - 05:08 PM

Right. You will have fun with this one.



#26 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 19 April 2016 - 11:27 AM

Chrome paint went on much different then I expected.  Comes out of the can much thicker then other paints I have used but flowed out well.  I'm going to add a few days to planned drying time and I only have a few minor areas that need to have the orange peel smoothed out.  Also shown here is the plan to use brass rod as a means to help hold the carbs in place by replicating fuel lines.  Not quite to scale but the visual effect should be fine.  I've also added a couple of brass rods to back of the exhaust to tie these back to the body as well.  

mysterion 018.jpg


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#27 olescratch

olescratch

    olescratch

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 416 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ravenna, OH

Posted 19 April 2016 - 01:22 PM

This is the kind of stuff I like to see!  A good static model deserves to be made into a slot so that it can be shown off!!  Many years ago I did a Silhouette, and I may have to do another one after seeing this!!


John Stewart

#28 Eddie Fleming

Eddie Fleming

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 647 posts
  • Joined: 27-April 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Fayetteville, GA

Posted 19 April 2016 - 03:06 PM

I thought it looked good in black. But you DA-man Dave. drive on. 


Eddie Fleming

#29 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 21 April 2016 - 08:23 AM

Hit a set back this week.  When I went to wet sand out some of the orange peel in the chrome I lost the reflectivity I wanted to make the candy yellow pop.  I tried a bit of the vintage mysterion yellow paint on it and it looks much darker and more green than I was looking for.  So now I need to decide if I want to try to go back to step one and strip all of the existing paint off and take better care in applying the chrome, take a safer route and start over and use a white primer with a pearl white as a base under the yellow or press on and try to tweek the paint job with some white faded onto the main surface areas I want to have pop in yellow.   Decisions, decisions.  Need to let the yellow dry for a couple of days before I decide on the next step.  Lots to do in working with the chrome parts and the interior.  I am planning on using the following mysterious masked man as the driver of the mysterion.

facemold.jpg


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#30 Dave Crevie

Dave Crevie

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 617 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 09

Posted 21 April 2016 - 04:38 PM

Ah, yes. The trials and tribulations of using new materials and preceedures.  We live and learn. Or at least

I hope we learn. 



#31 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 22 April 2016 - 11:11 AM

So I sent the Mysterion to the soup last night.  The soup is my bucket of Purple Power used to strip paint off of bodies.  It is kind of relieving to go back to a fresh start rather than trying to devise some new way to save the project.  I'm hoping that a bit more care with the paint will allow me to put the candy yellow on directly over the chrome.  One more try on the original plan before I go back and try the candy on pearl white approach.  And plan c of putting more paint over bad as a way to fix it never was realistic.  I am looking forward to learning how to get good results out of the chrome paint as I now have a can of it.  


Dave Roberts

#32 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 25 April 2016 - 10:18 AM

Back in Black!  I used a gloss metallic black this time as the underlay to the chrome.  Although I did get a small run on one area of the underside I can sand that out a bit without touching the key visible surfaces on the top.  I'm excited about taking another shot at the chrome this week.  I've also now added the carbs with the brass rod fuel rails to the intake manifolds and I'm getting ready to drill the attaching holes in the back of the engine block/transmission area.  This should provide a somewhat robust mechanism to keep these on the car in the inevitable roll over crash.  Also shown here is the unmasking of the driver.  I created a mold and epoxy copy of Ed Roth's face and will put this on what ever driver will sit well in the cockpit of the car.  

Round2.jpg

 


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#33 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 19 July 2016 - 09:23 AM

After 3 months of being frozen fear I have finally attempted to put the vintage Roth Testor Mysterion Yellow paint with my  air brush.  I am not an experienced airbrush user so this was very scary for me.  The paint on well over the chrome underlay and gave me the results I was hoping for.  Not perfect but I am satisfied with the results.  mysterion paint.jpg


  • slotbaker, Jencar17, Tex and 1 other like this
Dave Roberts

#34 Jairus

Jairus

    Body Painter Extraordinaire

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,016 posts
  • Joined: 16-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Salem, OR

Posted 19 July 2016 - 01:35 PM

Hey, looks great to me! :victory:


Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

www.slotcarsmag.com

www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#35 Ramcatlarry

Ramcatlarry

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,704 posts
  • Joined: 08-March 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:St Charles, IL 60174

Posted 20 July 2016 - 12:57 AM

Did you ever track test the drive for gear ratio?   Likely a 2.5 to 3.0 ratio is best.  I have used the 26T cox/generic/parma spur as a pinion before - sleeved to 3/32" for the pinion shaft.


Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... (for now)
race directing around Chicago-land

USRA 2017 member #404
USSCA  member

Host 2006 ISRA/USA
Great Lakes Slot Car Club member
60+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America


#36 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 20 July 2016 - 06:50 AM

The final drive ratio was 3 and it ran well but the tires didn't really hook up enough to really see what the full potential was.  I've cleaned them up a bit but haven't run it since doing so.   The 66 tooth gear was too large for the wheel diameter so that was scrapped.   To go with a ratio in the 2.x or less I would hve to add an idler gear do I might have to live with where I ended up.  Big Daddy is ready to give it a run.

 

roth 001.jpg


  • Jencar17 likes this
Dave Roberts

#37 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 20 July 2016 - 06:52 AM

Sorry, Forgot to mention I was having contact issues with the body trying to use the COX spur gear as a pinion.  I did buy a conversion sleeve in case I had no recourse but to modify the body and go in that direction. 


Dave Roberts

#38 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 04 August 2016 - 11:45 AM

Trying not to handle the body while I wait for the body to fully cure but I can't contain my excitement.  What's the harm in setting it together just to get a taste?

 

Painted.jpg

 

front.jpg


  • slotbaker, Jencar17, Tex and 1 other like this
Dave Roberts

#39 Slot Car Mods Magazine

Slot Car Mods Magazine

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • Joined: 25-February 16
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada

Posted 04 August 2016 - 10:33 PM

Simply stunning...!!!


Ron Todhunter
-----------------------------------------
SLOT CAR MODS MAGAZINE
"Everybody's Slot Car Magazine"
info@slotcarmods.com
-----------------------------------------
signature175_zps5czapfuq.gif


#40 Pete L.

Pete L.

    Posting Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,335 posts
  • Joined: 02-September 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NJ

Posted 05 August 2016 - 09:09 AM

Dave,

 

 

 GREAT build !!! :victory: :victory: :victory: :victory: :victory: :victory: :victory: :victory: :victory: :victory:


Peter J. Linszky

C.A.R.S. Vintage Slot Car Club

#41 dc-65x

dc-65x

    Posting Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,915 posts
  • Joined: 14-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Captain Rick: The only vintage slot car nut in SW Oregon?

Posted 05 August 2016 - 09:31 AM

WOW! :good:


Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#42 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 01 September 2016 - 07:56 AM

Getting a little closer to completion.  Big Daddy still needs his TV and Radio installed as this is so important in the performance of a slot car.  He does however look quite comfy in the fir lined cockpit.

BigDaddy.jpg

The front light pod is mounted using a flexible wire.  This will have a little give when the inevitable crash into the track wall occurs.  I am not nearly as good or careful of a driver that I would need to be to have the fragile bits hanging off the front end rigidly.  I also found that the brass rods I used to tie the side pipes to the body are interfering with the chassis a bit.  So I have to decide now between reducing the strength of the connection to the body to clear the chassis or adding a couple of small reliefs in the top of the chassis rails. 

nearlydone1.jpg


  • Jencar17 and boxerdog like this
Dave Roberts

#43 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,094 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 01 September 2016 - 02:56 PM

Very cool, Dave :heart: :good:


Paul Wolcott

#44 hiline2

hiline2

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 383 posts
  • Joined: 22-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Piney Woods around Tyler, TX

Posted 02 September 2016 - 12:24 PM

D-Dave , did you know about the tires Professor Motor has for this big Dynamic wheels ?

 

http://www.professor...-p/pmtr4598.htm


Paul Bass

#45 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 06 September 2016 - 08:07 AM

Thanks for sharing this Paul! I am going to try and make the next vintage meet at the Lightning Speedway so I will definitely pick up a set. 


Dave Roberts

#46 Detroit Dave

Detroit Dave

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
  • Joined: 06-December 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:White Lake, MI

Posted 19 September 2016 - 06:17 AM

Completed at last!  The new tires allowed the car to hook up really well and the car ran great.  Gearing seemed good as there was plenty of power and more speed than the smaller track could let be tested.  Thanks to my friend John who gave me the idea to use a small metal plate on the front lip of the bubble top with a magnet to hold it down.  Simple and very effective.  

Trackday.jpg

 


  • Jencar17, team burrito and NSwanberg like this
Dave Roberts

#47 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,094 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 19 September 2016 - 10:17 AM

:heart: :heart: :good:


Paul Wolcott

#48 smokie

smokie

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 463 posts
  • Joined: 13-November 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Crashville, Tennisippi

Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:35 PM

great job....that's just too nice to run on the track. I think it needs to be in a display case somewhere....


Jeff Bigelow
"It's not about winning or losing the race,
it's about how good you look for the concours judge"

#49 NSwanberg

NSwanberg

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 939 posts
  • Joined: 01-April 09
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canton, MI

Posted 20 September 2016 - 02:55 AM

:good:  :bomb:  :good:  :heart:


Remember the Steube bar!
SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL RACEWAY!!
"The denial of denial is the first sign of denial." Hank, from Corner Gas
Nelson Swanberg

Peace be with all of us and good racing for the rest of us.
Have controller. Will travel. Slot Car Heaven
Posted Image





Electric Dreams Online Shop