Chrome paint went on much different then I expected. Comes out of the can much thicker then other paints I have used but flowed out well. I'm going to add a few days to planned drying time and I only have a few minor areas that need to have the orange peel smoothed out. Also shown here is the plan to use brass rod as a means to help hold the carbs in place by replicating fuel lines. Not quite to scale but the visual effect should be fine. I've also added a couple of brass rods to back of the exhaust to tie these back to the body as well.
The Mysterion build
#26
Posted 19 April 2016 - 11:27 AM
- Jencar17 likes this
#27
Posted 19 April 2016 - 01:22 PM
This is the kind of stuff I like to see! A good static model deserves to be made into a slot so that it can be shown off!! Many years ago I did a Silhouette, and I may have to do another one after seeing this!!
#28
Posted 19 April 2016 - 03:06 PM
I thought it looked good in black. But you DA-man Dave. drive on.
#29
Posted 21 April 2016 - 08:23 AM
Hit a set back this week. When I went to wet sand out some of the orange peel in the chrome I lost the reflectivity I wanted to make the candy yellow pop. I tried a bit of the vintage mysterion yellow paint on it and it looks much darker and more green than I was looking for. So now I need to decide if I want to try to go back to step one and strip all of the existing paint off and take better care in applying the chrome, take a safer route and start over and use a white primer with a pearl white as a base under the yellow or press on and try to tweek the paint job with some white faded onto the main surface areas I want to have pop in yellow. Decisions, decisions. Need to let the yellow dry for a couple of days before I decide on the next step. Lots to do in working with the chrome parts and the interior. I am planning on using the following mysterious masked man as the driver of the mysterion.
- Jencar17 likes this
#30
Posted 21 April 2016 - 04:38 PM
Ah, yes. The trials and tribulations of using new materials and preceedures. We live and learn. Or at least
I hope we learn.
#31
Posted 22 April 2016 - 11:11 AM
So I sent the Mysterion to the soup last night. The soup is my bucket of Purple Power used to strip paint off of bodies. It is kind of relieving to go back to a fresh start rather than trying to devise some new way to save the project. I'm hoping that a bit more care with the paint will allow me to put the candy yellow on directly over the chrome. One more try on the original plan before I go back and try the candy on pearl white approach. And plan c of putting more paint over bad as a way to fix it never was realistic. I am looking forward to learning how to get good results out of the chrome paint as I now have a can of it.
#32
Posted 25 April 2016 - 10:18 AM
Back in Black! I used a gloss metallic black this time as the underlay to the chrome. Although I did get a small run on one area of the underside I can sand that out a bit without touching the key visible surfaces on the top. I'm excited about taking another shot at the chrome this week. I've also now added the carbs with the brass rod fuel rails to the intake manifolds and I'm getting ready to drill the attaching holes in the back of the engine block/transmission area. This should provide a somewhat robust mechanism to keep these on the car in the inevitable roll over crash. Also shown here is the unmasking of the driver. I created a mold and epoxy copy of Ed Roth's face and will put this on what ever driver will sit well in the cockpit of the car.
- Jencar17 likes this
#33
Posted 19 July 2016 - 09:23 AM
After 3 months of being frozen fear I have finally attempted to put the vintage Roth Testor Mysterion Yellow paint with my air brush. I am not an experienced airbrush user so this was very scary for me. The paint on well over the chrome underlay and gave me the results I was hoping for. Not perfect but I am satisfied with the results.
- slotbaker, Jencar17, Tex and 1 other like this
#34
Posted 19 July 2016 - 01:35 PM
Hey, looks great to me!
Jairus H Watson - Artist
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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#35
Posted 20 July 2016 - 12:57 AM
Did you ever track test the drive for gear ratio? Likely a 2.5 to 3.0 ratio is best. I have used the 26T cox/generic/parma spur as a pinion before - sleeved to 3/32" for the pinion shaft.
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
Diode/Omni repair specialist
USRA 2023 member # 2322
IRRA,/Sano/R4 veteran, Flat track racer/MFTS
Host 2006 Formula 2000 & ISRA/USA Nats
Great Lakes Slot Car Club (1/32) member
65+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America
#36
Posted 20 July 2016 - 06:50 AM
The final drive ratio was 3 and it ran well but the tires didn't really hook up enough to really see what the full potential was. I've cleaned them up a bit but haven't run it since doing so. The 66 tooth gear was too large for the wheel diameter so that was scrapped. To go with a ratio in the 2.x or less I would hve to add an idler gear do I might have to live with where I ended up. Big Daddy is ready to give it a run.
- Jencar17 likes this
#37
Posted 20 July 2016 - 06:52 AM
Sorry, Forgot to mention I was having contact issues with the body trying to use the COX spur gear as a pinion. I did buy a conversion sleeve in case I had no recourse but to modify the body and go in that direction.
#39
Posted 04 August 2016 - 10:33 PM
Simply stunning...!!!
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#40
Posted 05 August 2016 - 09:09 AM
Dave,
GREAT build !!!
6/30/54-6/27/22
Requiescat in Pace
#41
Posted 05 August 2016 - 09:31 AM
WOW!
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#42
Posted 01 September 2016 - 07:56 AM
Getting a little closer to completion. Big Daddy still needs his TV and Radio installed as this is so important in the performance of a slot car. He does however look quite comfy in the fir lined cockpit.
The front light pod is mounted using a flexible wire. This will have a little give when the inevitable crash into the track wall occurs. I am not nearly as good or careful of a driver that I would need to be to have the fragile bits hanging off the front end rigidly. I also found that the brass rods I used to tie the side pipes to the body are interfering with the chassis a bit. So I have to decide now between reducing the strength of the connection to the body to clear the chassis or adding a couple of small reliefs in the top of the chassis rails.
- Jencar17 and boxerdog like this
#43
Posted 01 September 2016 - 02:56 PM
Very cool, Dave
Paul Wolcott
#44
Posted 02 September 2016 - 12:24 PM
D-Dave , did you know about the tires Professor Motor has for this big Dynamic wheels ?
http://www.professor...-p/pmtr4598.htm
#45
Posted 06 September 2016 - 08:07 AM
Thanks for sharing this Paul! I am going to try and make the next vintage meet at the Lightning Speedway so I will definitely pick up a set.
#46
Posted 19 September 2016 - 06:17 AM
Completed at last! The new tires allowed the car to hook up really well and the car ran great. Gearing seemed good as there was plenty of power and more speed than the smaller track could let be tested. Thanks to my friend John who gave me the idea to use a small metal plate on the front lip of the bubble top with a magnet to hold it down. Simple and very effective.
- Jencar17, team burrito and NSwanberg like this
#47
Posted 19 September 2016 - 10:17 AM
Paul Wolcott
#48
Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:35 PM
great job....that's just too nice to run on the track. I think it needs to be in a display case somewhere....
Jeff Bigelow
"It's not about winning or losing the race,
it's about how good you look for the concours judge"
#49
Posted 20 September 2016 - 02:55 AM
Remember the Steube bar! (ask Raisin)
SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL RACEWAY!!
"The denial of denial is the first sign of denial." Hank, from Corner Gas
"Death before disco!" Wanda from Corner Gas
Nelson Swanberg 5618
Peace be with all of us and good racing for the rest of us.
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