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My first D3 build, a JK


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#1 gc4895

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 12:01 AM

For my introduction to D3 I built the JK Retro X25R kit as my first effort. I used single .063" rail. The bracket I got from Mike Swiss and it's wonderful. I had to fit it since it's .05o" brass, heavier than the JK issue, and it angles the motor up very slightly. The gear mesh is, simply put, amazing and worth the slight fitting issue. (I highly recommend replacing the JK bracket with Mike's 3/4 inch wonder.) I used .055" for bracing the bracket. I also added a bit of limiting stops at the front where the pans are hinged. I felt the movement was too much and put in a couple of small stops to tame it down.   

 

I slapped a Parma Lola T163 body after installing a JK Retro Hawk geared 9/29.

 

Wow!  This thing actually handles pretty well! (Note shocked look on my face.)  I ran it around my local blue King which is pretty swoopy and this car is fun to drive. OK, it doesn't bomb around the track like my Cheetah 11 with S16D but it is also no stinking Turbo-Flex. Life is too short to race any more Turbo-Flex chassis as far as I'm concerned. 

 

The car is very fast through the deadman and finger. It does take a little more attention to timing than my Cheetah but is very rewarding when correct technique is applied. I was able to run 5.1 kinds of times in the middle lanes. A certified good driver was able to easily get the car immediately into the 4s.  Gives me something to shoot for. 

 

2016-04-02 08.59.32.jpg

 

2016-04-02 09.00.00.jpg


  • Tex, Tim Neja, JimF and 2 others like this
Mark Bauer




#2 slotcarone

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 12:41 AM

:) Nice build!!


Mike Katz

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#3 Pablo

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 08:36 AM

Well executed, Mark.  :good:


Paul Wolcott

#4 Tex

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 08:57 AM

Good job, Mark; welcome to the Retro train!


Richard L. Hofer

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#5 MSwiss

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 09:25 AM

Clean job, Mark.

Congrats on getting your feet wet again, building chassis.

Mike Swiss
 
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder
17B West Ogden AveWestmont, IL 60559, ( 708) 203-8003
mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address) 
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516
Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#6 Arne Saknussem

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 01:52 PM

Very nice piece of work. Bravo.


Pete Varlan

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#7 gc4895

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Posted 04 April 2016 - 12:30 PM

Thanks, all!  Jim Fowler kindly helped my sort this car out yesterday.  He helped me apply a bit a weight, in just the right place, to make this car work even better.  I have to admit that it's really fun to have the time to  focus on the car and set-up and not be grinding away on motor prep.  Something sweet about tightening up a couple of screws and the motor is "done". 

 

I guess like all gear-heads, now all I can think about is my next build project!  This may be a sickness...


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Mark Bauer

#8 Pablo

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Posted 05 April 2016 - 06:19 AM

It's definitely a sickness. Here is my first JKD3X25R:

IMG_9864.JPG

 


Paul Wolcott

#9 Joe Rose IV

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Posted 10 April 2016 - 10:31 PM

Nice Mark! Howd you thread the front axles?



#10 Les Boyd

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 06:38 AM

This was the same chassis kit that I tried for my first Retro build. My local track was starting up a Retro program and I had great success winning the first races with ease. It is a great kit and with the Swiss bracket that could only make it better.
But be forewarned this can get addictive, so when you get the uncontrollable urge to build again.....don't fight it just go with it.

#11 gc4895

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Posted 11 April 2016 - 08:28 AM

I didn't thread the front axle, I paid up for convenience.  I call the threaded front axle a convenient luxury item.  BRP or Go Fast each make them for  $10-$12.50 each.  They come with nuts that have plastic inserts so you don't even have to locktite them.  This item saves a couple of solder joints but really, how often are you going to change your front tires in the useful life of a car anyway???  If you are building on a budget this is one item that is easily replaced with a few 3/32 collars and a couple dabs of solder. 


Mark Bauer





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