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JK Go-kart build (vs job search)


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 11:21 AM

Yesterday I promised myself I would get serious on a job search today.

I had one final slot car chore - sort a box of misc bodies I acquired. I found this:
 
IMG_0822.JPG
 
and promptly forgot all about a job. Minnie Watson, John Clow, and Richard Bennardo, Sr. all have Go-karts, why don't I have one? :)
This is my chance to have the "biggest head in 1/24 slot cars" (the helmet is about 7/8" OD), so I can't resist.

IMG_0845.JPG
 
Here is Rick's:

Make the JK Go-kart neat
 
Does anyone know where the masks go? Maybe they were put in the wrong package?

IMG_0843.JPG
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#2 Jairus

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 02:52 PM

Yes, the two thin ones go under the drivers legs and the fat one between the exhaust muffler and seat back.

Trust me... you can do better with a sharp knife and masking tape. 

I've painted a number of those.

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#3 garyvmachines

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 02:53 PM

On the first day of my summer vacation... I went downtown, to look for a job...                 
Then I went and hung out in front of the drug store...

On the second day of my summer vacation... I went downtown, to look for a JOB...
Then I went and hung out in front of the drug store...

On the third day of my summer vacation... I went downtow , to look for a JOB!!!... I FOUND A JOB!!!

KEEPING people from hanging out in front of the drug store!!! :roflmao:

Thank you C&C...
 
GAV
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#4 garyvmachines

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 03:01 PM

Hey, Pablo, I pitch the mask... Use tape and sharp knife.

I have pics for inspiration...
 
GAV

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slot car pic 003.JPG
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#5 Rick

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 03:12 PM

The Go-karts are cool but ya need an LMP body to finish them off cooler:
 
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#6 Pablo

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 03:23 PM

Thanks, Jairus :good: and Gary :laugh2: and Rick B. :D
 
I considered using either a Champion T-Flex or a JK C11 chassis for this car.

In both cases, the front wings do not align with the body. The only way to do it right is a scratchbuilt chassis.
So, here we go. The body will accept an anglewinder configuration "no problemo."
 
I have a few Pro Slot 4002B motors available, so I picked one out of the box and sliced the seal open.
This one has (obviously) been refurbished by "Fast Ones" so I'm sure it's not going to take much effort, if any, to make it perfect.
Gives me a thrill to cut the seal, anyway. :laugh2:

IMG_0851.JPG
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#7 bluecars

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 04:05 PM

Did Billy ever find Minnie's Go-kart???

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#8 Pablo

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 05:28 PM

Yup. Right under his eyes. It was in Minnie's box right where it belongs, but it had a body shell placed over it.

I hope it was clean and didn't dirty up Minnie's hair. :)
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#9 idare2bdul

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 09:41 PM

I remember making slot karts from 1/8 scale R/C drivers. I need to find time to build my JK Kart.
The light at the end of the tunnel is almost always a train.
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#10 Pappy

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 05:37 AM

Pablo,
 
I believe the JK Go-kart body was designed to fit the original JK Cheetah chassis. I don't think it had a number designation like Cheetah 7 or Cheetah 11.
 
I'm sure someone on here could tell you exactly what it is and maybe know where you can get one.

Jim "Danger" Dunaway aka Butch
 
Danger is my middle name, that's why I race slot cars.

 

Anything is possible IF you don't know what you are talking about.
 
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and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it cost
nothing to be a PATRIOT." - Mark Twain, 1904

 

 


#11 Pablo

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 06:45 AM

Thanks anyway, Danger, but I have my heart set on scratchbuilding it.
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#12 Pablo

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 07:11 AM

Here's one Noose painted.
msg-339-0-43757200-1460635242.jpeg
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#13 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 07:13 AM

... but I have my heart set on scratchbuilding it.


Now that is a shocker!
 
I like that two-part body Rick is showing. It looks very true to a lot of modern karts.
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#14 Bill from NH

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 07:35 AM

I don't have either, but I thought JK's kart and their snowmobile bodies were sized to fit their flexi narrow-pan Indy chassis.

Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#15 Pablo

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 07:47 AM

I checked that - this body is much wider than the JK Indy style chassis.


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#16 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 12:27 PM

The snowmobile/jetski fits the narrow Indy style frames: JK, Parma, Champion. Karts have evolved over the years, so different trim and gas tanks appear, just like dirt late models.
 
This post may make Tim put another batch of shells on the shelf.
 
BETTA in England has made a 1/32 Go-kart shell that works on Womps quite nicely. Not sure if they are still available either.
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#17 Jairus

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 12:49 PM

Okay... guess it's time to post mine.

Raced it for a year so now it's not quite as pretty, but won two races with it.

IMG_1533-vi.jpg
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#18 Pablo

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 06:12 PM

Thanks for posting, Jairus. :)  No need to worry about "pretty" here; your kart has a big personality. :good:
The crew chief looks pretty cool, and your driver looks like he has been eating his Wheaties. :aggressive:
 
My job search today lasted about five seconds, and was totally fruitless. So, back to building slot cars...
 
Planning stage details:
Wheelbase 3-7/8", Guide lead 5/8", width 3.125"
Rear clearance: >.032"
Front clearance: >.015"
Rail spacing: 1.00"
Front chunk: .063" x 1.125"
Rails: twin wires, .063"/.055"
Plumber wires: .055"
Pans: .032"
Axle: Koford 3/32"
Gears: 64p 11/35
Oilites: Parma
Motor: Tecumseh (just kidding)  Pro Slot 4002B in anglewinder configuration
Braid: Prime Racing
Tongue: Chicagoland
Rear wheels: Limpach
Front wheels: Parma O-ring
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#19 Bill from NH

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 07:48 PM

That frame ought to handle really well with a set of those PDL diamond fronts. :good:


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#20 Pablo

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 05:34 PM

There you go again, Bill, reading my mind. :)
 
Looks like I got lucky and nailed the lineup, Chicagoland .042" steel tongue floated onto the chunk via mini-torch.
Lift is a 5 thou Kelly bronze flag spacer.

IMG_0859.JPG
 
The tan rubber on the "Limpach's Fresh Cuts" wheels was nice, but I changed it anyway to modern treated black donuts.

IMG_0878.JPG
 
Pro Slot 4002B motor - not much news here - it had been freshly refurbed by Hershman.
I soldered the can bushing in place, double checked, cleaned, and tested everything.

IMG_0884.JPG
 
Axle tube cut for motor clearance and set in the jig.

IMG_0890.JPG
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#21 Pablo

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 08:43 AM

This inevitably happens to hinges sooner or later:

IMG_0920.JPG
 
So I'm going to try doubling the tubes. If it works well on the plumbers, I'll try it on the pans as well.

IMG_0924.JPG
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#22 Pablo

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 02:12 PM

The little Pro Slot motors make for a very simple anglewinder build.

IMG_0931.JPG
 
1" distance between the inner rails works perfect.
For gearing, I started with the shortest jig holes I own, .720" for .063" clearance.
With .032" clearance it translates into .656" wheel OD.
Pro Slot's gear chart calculator for Retro gearing on these 4002B motors, .820" OD wheels, 7/28 gears shows a final drive ratio of 4.88.
A 35t 64p spur is about .572" OD which gives .042" clearance.
I plug in .656" into the calculator and with a 35t spur, the closest match is an 11t pinion at 4.85.
 
The motor connections at the rail and upper brace, IMO, are enough, but I wanted a cross connector for redundancy down low in the rear anyway.
So I put it close enough to the motor to use as an extra connection point in case I need it.

IMG_0929.JPG
 
The only problem so far is, I ran myself out of .063" wire in the middle of a tinning party. Drove all over southern Mississippi looking for more, no luck.

But I found a solution - I simply closed one eye, farted, and used .055" for the outer rails. It's my new secret to allow the bite bars to sit lower.  :wink2:  :crazy:


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 05:27 PM

I made up a set of doubled tubes for the front axles also.

It's a lot of work, but I get a thrill watching the tubes drink the solder. :laugh2:

Length tolerances are +/- 3 thou.

IMG_0936.JPG
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#24 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 09:15 PM

One easy way of soldering up doubled tubing is to drill a couple 1/16" or 3/32" holes through the wall of the outside tube. Flux and solder it to the inside tube through these drilled holes.  :victory:
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Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#25 Pablo

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 12:15 PM

Got some inside decals going on.

IMG_0937.JPG
 
The owner of the world's biggest slot head is: Parnelli Jones. :laugh2:

IMG_0940.JPG
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#26 Pablo

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Posted 19 April 2016 - 10:41 AM

One easy way of soldering up doubled tubing is to drill a couple 1/16" or 3/32" holes through the wall of the outside tube. Flux and solder it to the inside tube through these drilled holes.  :victory:

 
Doubled pan hinges.

IMG_0942.JPG
 
IMG_0944.JPG
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#27 Pablo

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Posted 19 April 2016 - 05:08 PM

I was inspired by dc-65x's post concerning plumber wire distortion when the hinge tubes are soldered on - I think he called it "wow."

This time, I'm doing as he suggested - solder the tubes on, then correct before installing them.
 
I've had my share of plumber challenges, too. Sometimes my tubes end up too far down, resulting in the wire ending up in the air.
Today I had an idea. What if I cock the wire a hair, then solder the tubes? (Sorry, can't think of a better word for it. :unknw:)
 
So I did an experiment - made a wire with similar bends and cocked it a hair using a chunk of .063" brass to prop it up a little.
Then I tacked on a tube piece at ground zero.

IMG_0963.JPG
 
Then tested it to see how far it lifted. Result: A hair above ground zero - perfect.
Steve Okeefe even uses aluminum foil sometimes. Whatever works is the best way. :good:

IMG_0976.JPG
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#28 Pablo

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 05:17 PM

- 15 thou 1/8" brass angle strengthens the pans; .055" holes drilled for 2" body clips.
- doubled pan hinges are perfect height, precluding the need to angle the hinge wires.

IMG_0982.JPG
 
She needs a cleaning.  :D  That's all I can do until my .063" wire shipment arrives to make the front axles.
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#29 Pablo

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 05:15 PM

PCH 3/32" rear axle cut to precise length to meet Professor Motor wheel inserts.

IMG_0987.JPG
 
A dot of plastic bonder on the axle end, and, "boop", it's positioned right where I wanted it.

With this method, when it comes time to re-rubber the wheels it's pretty simple - one insert is removed and both wheels come right off.

IMG_0997.JPG

 

To elaborate further, once the wheel assembly is complete the width is set exactly as planned (3.125) and the second insert gets attached in the same manner.

It automatically ends up in the perfect position in the wheel. I temporarily mocked it up using a dot of tape to illustrate.

 

IMG_0999.JPG

 

When the wheels need removing, loosen the set screws and push the axle until one insert protrudes outside a wheel.

Break the dot of glue and remove that insert and wheel.

 

IMG_1002.JPG

 

Now the other wheel can slide off the same end, and the other insert stays on the axle.

 

IMG_1003.JPG


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#30 bluecars

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 05:55 PM

Racin'!!! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#31 Maximo

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:11 PM

Great topic, Pablo!
 
Here's my kart...
 
- MAXimo

564515_365346180155423_970461242_n.jpg
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#32 Johnny

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 08:46 PM

Hi Pablo,

Nice build/project. I like it. :clapping:

As I have about 10 of the JK Go-kart bodies, I have been thinking about building one, but never came to it.
You have now inspired me to start; I have ordered some parts needed.
 
About the chassis, I have a question. When soldering the guide tongue on the brass plate (1/16" thick I'm sure) will it give enough height for a regular guide?
 
PS: This is my first brass/wire chassis build for well over 40 years! :D
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#33 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 06:31 AM

Glad to have inspired you, Johnny!

The short answer to your question is, yes. A 1/16" thick chunk gives good clearance using a standard thickness (.063") flag and about 23 thou thick braid.

For more clearance you can add some 10 thou spacers, and for less you can go to a cut-down flag. But the tongue on top of the 1/16" chunk is a good starting point.

Don't forget to add some tilt if your front and rear clearances differ.
 
If you need build tutorials with more details, I'd suggest looking at some of my previous builds. I didn't intend for this one to be a "how-to".

My "Lee Gilbert" build has complete details on building a fully plumbered anglewinder, that one and several others.
Paul Wolcott

#34 Samiam

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 06:46 AM

Pablo,
 
If you had to guess, what scale would you put on this Kart? 1/?th.
Sam Levitch
 
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Support your local raceway, or you won't have one.
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Support your "Local Racer."
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#35 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 08:51 AM

The body is labeled as a 1/24, although the head is giant.

I don't know anything about real karts so I couldn't say.

Wheelbase is 4" (mine will be 3-7/8") and width at the pans is 3-1/8"
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#36 Jairus

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 09:08 AM

The scale of the JK Kart body "fits" a 1/24 chassis is what that means. But the actual scale of the figure is closer to 1/10 to 1/12.

I left the face shield clear with the intention of adding a doll head.  Even bought a bunch of Pezz containers and that pictured Speed Racer action figure hoping to find one that would work.

No glory.
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#37 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 10:36 AM

I was thinking of putting a head in there also, but I can't find one big enough. :laugh2:

I need a Parnelli Jones bobble head in 1/8! :laugh2:
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#38 Dennis David

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 10:44 AM

Pablo, would I be wrong in wishing that you never find another job? ;-)
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#39 mgerbetz

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 11:22 AM

Pablo,

 

Jobs are overated. Enjoy what you are doing. The right thing will come along soon enough.

 

Besides, us working stiffs like watching the builds on our lunch break! Ha!


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#40 Cheater

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 11:24 AM

Here's my kart...


I don't see a guide flag...

Seriously, what's the track width on your kart, Max?

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#41 Cap Henry

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 11:42 AM

The rear track width can be up to 50-52 inches on road course karts. Oval karts are typically only 40-41 inches wide.


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 01:16 PM

Pablo, would I be wrong in wishing that you never find another job? ;-)

 

I'd prefer you to wish I never run out of money to live - the job part, I can take it or leave it.  :D

 

I have bills to pay and mouths to feed.

 

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#43 Pablo

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 09:52 AM

Done, except for tinting the face shield. For now, I left it clear and installed a driver figure.

 

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Parnelli Jones after winning the 1963 Indy 500.

 

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#44 bluecars

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 03:11 PM

I commend your choice of colors! But then you knew I would. Looks great, Pablo. Can't wait to see it run. I will get to see it run, won't I?? :good: :good: :good:

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#45 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 04:13 PM

Red, if you ask nicely, you might even get to drive it.  :) 

Now Pablo has to build a second one so he can hold go-kart races. :roflmao:

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#46 bluecars

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 08:09 PM

:D That would be great, Bill.

I wonder if Maximo would let me drive his? After all it does have a blue frame. :laugh2:

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#47 Pablo

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Posted 24 April 2016 - 12:51 PM

A while back, Dennis David asked about my McLaren (fully plumbered pan) car:
"Paul, except for the body, how does that chassis handle compared to a current retro chassis?"
Of course there are too many variables to make a fair comparison.
But Dennis may be interested in this:
 
My racing buddy John Clow has a JK Go-kart car as well, and I asked him to bring it next event so we can compare and have fun.
His is a T-Flex chassis, Contender motor, small rear wheels.
Mine is a fully plumbered pan anglewinder, PS 4002B motor, and small rear wheels.
The Contender may be a little more powerful (bigger wire and longer stack) but my PS 4002B is smaller and lighter.
I think it will be a fair fight. I don't think my Pablo chassis will give away anything in handling to a T-Flex.
We shall see. It should be interesting, and will definitely be fun. :D
 
Chassis is ready for the tumbler.
 
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#48 Rick

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 12:32 AM

Found the Ultimate Kart pics, Pablo.
 
Bobs Go Cart 1.jpg

Bob Go Cart 2.jpg
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#49 Pablo

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 06:23 AM

:good: Bad to the Bone! :good:

I can hardly wait to get mine out of the tumbler this morning. :dance3:
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#50 Pablo

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 08:47 AM

Doubled hinge tubes on pans and front axles, plumber connectors .032" front/.047" rear, .055" bite bar.
 
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