Ready for the body.
Passes the drivetrain test with flying colors.
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Posted 25 April 2016 - 11:03 AM
Posted 25 April 2016 - 02:32 PM
One final step - a dot of glue on the end of the axle:
Boop, second insert goes home and in perfect position. I don't even need to check it.
Go-Kart is done.
Time to get serious about a real job.
Posted 25 April 2016 - 03:06 PM
Hoping you don't get one that will make you work on the first Sat. of the month. LOL!!!
Robert "Red" Valantine
Posted 25 April 2016 - 03:19 PM
Good idea, Red. Also, one that doesn't have me commuting directly into the sun both coming and going.
Posted 08 May 2016 - 06:38 PM
Job search: dead
Go-Kart track test: pretty good
Power and handling were excellent, but I plan to punch the flag further forward.
John Clow's TFlex with a Contender motor was much faster, and better handling.
Posted 12 May 2016 - 09:09 PM
Wrecking Crew says - " Give them nothing, But take from them everything "
Posted 20 May 2016 - 10:11 AM
My solution to John Clow's Contender motor Go-Kart out-powering mine:
Stock PS 4002B arm ("Puppy Dog") comes out and in goes a Havlicek #28 AWG arm.
The H comm is about 10 thou bigger than the stock arm so brush platforms needed to be hogged out just a hair.
Otherwise, perfect fit and an easy installation.
She drew 2.7 amps at 3 volts, dropped steadily as the brush faces conformed to the bigger comm, and stabilized at 2.0 amps.
Runs perfectly smooth and cool. Sounds powerful enough to beat a Contender
Now the wheelbase needs to be punched out. Look out, John, I'm comin' for ya !
Posted 20 May 2016 - 11:45 AM
The simplest solution to extending the wheelbase is swapping the existing Chicagoland tongue for a Slick 7.
Not that one is any better than the other - but the S7 is long and that's what I need.
Should be an easy operation, but it all depends on what falls off when I apply enough heat to do it
The S7 is 10 thou thicker (taller) so the forward plumber wires cross connector will have to be changed.
Now, where did I put that doggone spare bottle of butane ?
Posted 20 May 2016 - 12:46 PM
Posted 20 May 2016 - 02:25 PM
Posted 20 May 2016 - 04:25 PM
The front plumber cross connector could be replaced or you could grind a .010 groove for the old connector to fit in. Since the S7 tongue is not as wide, you could also use longer plumber hinge tubes for added strength. I come from the days when K&S piano wire was a nickel per foot, regardless of diameter.
If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?
Posted 20 May 2016 - 05:32 PM
Concur on both - good ideas, Bill But:
-I chose to replace the .032 cross connector with a new .037 piece.
-The thought of making new (doubled) plumber hinge tubes occurred to me, and I chose not to. Heck, it's a Go-Kart, not a G7
She's in the tumbler.......
Posted 21 May 2016 - 03:44 PM
Wheel insert method worked fantastic, as planned.
No failure during track test, one insert popped right off upon axle disassembly, and a dot of new glue on the axle end for reassembly.
I'll be using this method on my vintage cars for sure.
Posted 21 May 2016 - 05:09 PM
H arm in the stock PS 4002B setup is geared 7/35 with .675" OD wheels.
Center of rear axle to center of flag shaft is now 4 3/4" - same as a TFlex.
Track test #2 should be interesting
Posted 02 July 2016 - 10:36 PM
Track test # 2 results:
-Lengthening the WB greatly improved the handling Much, much better. It was out-handling the TFlex Go-Karts easily.
-H arm gave the PS 4002B motor the extra beans it needed to keep up with the "Go-Kart motor wars"
In multiple impromptu drag races down the straightaway against a G12 (box-stock) motor Kart, it was dead even every time.
Handling-wise, it walked off and left them behind. Mission accomplished.