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JK Go-kart build


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#26 Pablo

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Posted 19 April 2016 - 10:41 AM

One easy way of soldering up doubled tubing is to drill a couple 1/16" or 3/32" holes through the wall of the outside tube. Flux and solder it to the inside tube through these drilled holes.  :victory:

 
Doubled pan hinges.

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#27 Pablo

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Posted 19 April 2016 - 05:08 PM

I was inspired by dc-65x's post concerning plumber wire distortion when the hinge tubes are soldered on - I think he called it "wow."

This time, I'm doing as he suggested - solder the tubes on, then correct before installing them.
 
I've had my share of plumber challenges, too. Sometimes my tubes end up too far down, resulting in the wire ending up in the air.
Today I had an idea. What if I cock the wire a hair, then solder the tubes? (Sorry, can't think of a better word for it. :unknw:)
 
So I did an experiment - made a wire with similar bends and cocked it a hair using a chunk of .063" brass to prop it up a little.
Then I tacked on a tube piece at ground zero.

IMG_0963.JPG
 
Then tested it to see how far it lifted. Result: A hair above ground zero - perfect.
Steve Okeefe even uses aluminum foil sometimes. Whatever works is the best way. :good:

IMG_0976.JPG
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#28 Pablo

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 05:17 PM

- 15 thou 1/8" brass angle strengthens the pans; .055" holes drilled for 2" body clips.
- doubled pan hinges are perfect height, precluding the need to angle the hinge wires.

IMG_0982.JPG
 
She needs a cleaning.  :D  That's all I can do until my .063" wire shipment arrives to make the front axles.
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#29 Pablo

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 05:15 PM

PCH 3/32" rear axle cut to precise length to meet Professor Motor wheel inserts.

IMG_0987.JPG
 
A dot of plastic bonder on the axle end, and, "boop", it's positioned right where I wanted it.

With this method, when it comes time to re-rubber the wheels it's pretty simple - one insert is removed and both wheels come right off.

IMG_0997.JPG

 

To elaborate further, once the wheel assembly is complete the width is set exactly as planned (3.125) and the second insert gets attached in the same manner.

It automatically ends up in the perfect position in the wheel. I temporarily mocked it up using a dot of tape to illustrate.

 

IMG_0999.JPG

 

When the wheels need removing, loosen the set screws and push the axle until one insert protrudes outside a wheel.

Break the dot of glue and remove that insert and wheel.

 

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Now the other wheel can slide off the same end, and the other insert stays on the axle.

 

IMG_1003.JPG


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#30 bluecars

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 05:55 PM

Racin'!!! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#31 Maximo

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 06:11 PM

Great topic, Pablo!
 
Here's my kart...
 
- MAXimo

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#32 Johnny

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 08:46 PM

Hi Pablo,

Nice build/project. I like it. :clapping:

As I have about 10 of the JK Go-kart bodies, I have been thinking about building one, but never came to it.
You have now inspired me to start; I have ordered some parts needed.
 
About the chassis, I have a question. When soldering the guide tongue on the brass plate (1/16" thick I'm sure) will it give enough height for a regular guide?
 
PS: This is my first brass/wire chassis build for well over 40 years! :D
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#33 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 06:31 AM

Glad to have inspired you, Johnny!

The short answer to your question is, yes. A 1/16" thick chunk gives good clearance using a standard thickness (.063") flag and about 23 thou thick braid.

For more clearance you can add some 10 thou spacers, and for less you can go to a cut-down flag. But the tongue on top of the 1/16" chunk is a good starting point.

Don't forget to add some tilt if your front and rear clearances differ.
 
If you need build tutorials with more details, I'd suggest looking at some of my previous builds. I didn't intend for this one to be a "how-to".

My "Lee Gilbert" build has complete details on building a fully plumbered anglewinder, that one and several others.
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#34 Samiam

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 06:46 AM

Pablo,
 
If you had to guess, what scale would you put on this Kart? 1/?th.
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#35 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 08:51 AM

The body is labeled as a 1/24, although the head is giant.

I don't know anything about real karts so I couldn't say.

Wheelbase is 4" (mine will be 3-7/8") and width at the pans is 3-1/8"
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#36 Jairus

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 09:08 AM

The scale of the JK Kart body "fits" a 1/24 chassis is what that means. But the actual scale of the figure is closer to 1/10 to 1/12.

I left the face shield clear with the intention of adding a doll head.  Even bought a bunch of Pezz containers and that pictured Speed Racer action figure hoping to find one that would work.

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#37 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 10:36 AM

I was thinking of putting a head in there also, but I can't find one big enough. :laugh2:

I need a Parnelli Jones bobble head in 1/8! :laugh2:
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#38 Dennis David

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 10:44 AM

Pablo, would I be wrong in wishing that you never find another job? ;-)
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#39 mgerbetz

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 11:22 AM

Pablo,

 

Jobs are overated. Enjoy what you are doing. The right thing will come along soon enough.

 

Besides, us working stiffs like watching the builds on our lunch break! Ha!


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#40 Cheater

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 11:24 AM

Here's my kart...


I don't see a guide flag...

Seriously, what's the track width on your kart, Max?

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#41 Cap Henry

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 11:42 AM

The rear track width can be up to 50-52 inches on road course karts. Oval karts are typically only 40-41 inches wide.


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 22 April 2016 - 01:16 PM

Pablo, would I be wrong in wishing that you never find another job? ;-)

 

I'd prefer you to wish I never run out of money to live - the job part, I can take it or leave it.  :D

 

I have bills to pay and mouths to feed.

 

IMG_1047.JPG

 

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#43 Pablo

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 09:52 AM

Done, except for tinting the face shield. For now, I left it clear and installed a driver figure.

 

IMG_1008.JPG

 

Parnelli Jones after winning the 1963 Indy 500.

 

Parnelli.jpg

 

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#44 bluecars

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 03:11 PM

I commend your choice of colors! But then you knew I would. Looks great, Pablo. Can't wait to see it run. I will get to see it run, won't I?? :good: :good: :good:

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#45 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 04:13 PM

Red, if you ask nicely, you might even get to drive it.  :) 

Now Pablo has to build a second one so he can hold go-kart races. :roflmao:

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#46 bluecars

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 08:09 PM

:D That would be great, Bill.

I wonder if Maximo would let me drive his? After all it does have a blue frame. :laugh2:

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#47 Pablo

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Posted 24 April 2016 - 12:51 PM

A while back, Dennis David asked about my McLaren (fully plumbered pan) car:
"Paul, except for the body, how does that chassis handle compared to a current retro chassis?"
Of course there are too many variables to make a fair comparison.
But Dennis may be interested in this:
 
My racing buddy John Clow has a JK Go-kart car as well, and I asked him to bring it next event so we can compare and have fun.
His is a T-Flex chassis, Contender motor, small rear wheels.
Mine is a fully plumbered pan anglewinder, PS 4002B motor, and small rear wheels.
The Contender may be a little more powerful (bigger wire and longer stack) but my PS 4002B is smaller and lighter.
I think it will be a fair fight. I don't think my Pablo chassis will give away anything in handling to a T-Flex.
We shall see. It should be interesting, and will definitely be fun. :D
 
Chassis is ready for the tumbler.
 
IMG_1032.JPG
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#48 Rick

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 12:32 AM

Found the Ultimate Kart pics, Pablo.
 
Bobs Go Cart 1.jpg

Bob Go Cart 2.jpg
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#49 Pablo

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 06:23 AM

:good: Bad to the Bone! :good:

I can hardly wait to get mine out of the tumbler this morning. :dance3:
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#50 Pablo

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 08:47 AM

Doubled hinge tubes on pans and front axles, plumber connectors .032" front/.047" rear, .055" bite bar.
 
IMG_1091.JPG
 
IMG_1052.JPG
 
IMG_1035.JPG
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