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#101 Pablo

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Posted 02 June 2018 - 11:22 PM

Track test today at The Dungeon Go-kart race: I won, end of story :laugh2: Who says H arms aren't for racing? :dance3:


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Paul Wolcott




#102 bluecars

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Posted 03 June 2018 - 06:43 AM

Congrats Pablo!!! Only took me 1.5 hr. to unscrew my my pretzel. :wacko2: :wacko2: :heat:


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#103 havlicek

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Posted 03 June 2018 - 07:56 AM

Congrats Pablo.  

 

Track test today at The Dungeon Go-kart race: I won, end of story :laugh2: Who says H arms aren't for racing? :dance3:

 

As I've said before...this all has as much or more to do with who builds the motor, car and then drives it (*in this case all the same guy).  You're one of the guys who I worry about most when I sell them an arm or a motor.  Why?...because if it doesn't go well, then it's all on me.  :D


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John Havlicek

#104 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 June 2018 - 09:30 AM

I haven't heard of other US raceways holding a "run what you brung" class, but they ought to try. My first two years of commercial racing in the late 60's was "run what you brung" racing. It was both very competiive & a lot of fun. Class racing for me started in '69 when I relocated to another state.


Bill Fernald
 

I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#105 Pablo

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Posted 15 June 2018 - 03:53 PM

Bill asked if anybody had put a G20 motor in a Go-kart yet.

I beat Bud's X12 C can motored kart last time, with a Havlicek mini-X12 wind arm in a PS 4002B setup.

 

It takes effort to get to the top of a motor war, and it takes even more effort to stay there.

I removed the winning motor, bagged and labeled it for a future project.

 

In goes the new G20 Havlicek mini motor. Draws 1.7 amps at 4 volts during breakin.

I fed 'er some volts to hear it sing for a second. hehehehehehe :yahoo:

 

IMG_9718.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#106 zipper

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Posted 15 June 2018 - 05:16 PM

I had G20 in my VW Womp. Handling was - well...


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Pekka Sippola

#107 Pablo

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Posted 15 June 2018 - 05:33 PM

:laugh2: I know exactly what you mean, Pekka :laugh2:

You get to a point where the car goes from corner to corner so quickly, "handling" isn't really a proper term for it :)


Paul Wolcott

#108 Pablo

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Posted 15 June 2018 - 07:08 PM

Gearing is now 64P, 8/36, .710 wheels.

Drivetrain test was spooky good :yes:

 

IMG_9724.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#109 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2018 - 11:05 PM

Race test today of the H Power mini-G20: Plenty of power and brakes, motor ran perfectly and I couldn't ask for more power at all. But, I think this is about the limit of useable power for Go-karts :laugh2:

 

My kart needs 2 improvements:

-she was geared a little too tall (winding out a little late on the long straight). Easy fix.

-I had more power than the X12 motors but I couldn't use it because the speed crazed kart fanatics have installed wing kits and they are working. So to "keep up with the Jones's" I'll be joining the karting aero club next time :laugh2:

 

The motor and car worked fine and I was happy with 3rd place :)


Paul Wolcott

#110 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 July 2018 - 05:36 AM

Wing kit on karts? Is unlimited glue on the horizon? :laugh2:  :laugh2:


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Bill Fernald
 

I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#111 Pablo

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Posted 08 July 2018 - 07:23 AM

No, The Dungeon has plenty of traction and no gluing the track allowed :nea:  :D 


Paul Wolcott

#112 Pablo

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 05:54 PM

Forget everything I said about changes - the kart rules have changed :)

The H20 motor was removed, cleaned, bagged, labeled "H20, one race, excellent" then stowed in the modern motor box of horrors. Maybe I should have added a side note - "makes the car hit the bank fast and hard enough to shift the track" :laugh2: :aggressive:

 

I need to do the following:

- new Phoenix motor, gears 14/35 with same OD wheels (.700-ish).

- 5/8" tall spoiler

- 1/2" min. front wheels

 

So I gave 'er a complete teardown, including the Ralph Thorne Racing chassis skin.

After testing, I'll probably install a new one.

 

BB's were still fine, and both chassis sections still completely flat (kudos to JK - the C43 is strong). Chicagoland flag and new TQ 20 gauge wires are ready.

 

IMG_9966.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#113 Pablo

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 06:55 PM

I abandoned the concept of including the forward bite bar as an axle for fronts.

Too complex, too heavy, too many things to go wrong.

 

Here's what I did - "rivet counters" please forgive me :D

 

IMG_9974.JPG

 

Phoenix broken in under water and given a 10 second lighter fluid splash.

Secured with a Gator Bob motor brace.

Man, these mags are so strong I thought my chassis was bent when I installed the axle.

Anybody else experience this? I couldn't even tell if the bushings were aligned :o

 

IMG_9978.JPG

 


Paul Wolcott

#114 Pablo

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 04:45 PM

I solved the problem of not being able to verify the bushing alignment by using a piece of 3/32 aluminum tube - they are perfect as I suspected

 

IMG_9980.JPG

 

I've heard a couple theories on the issue of the mags pulling so hard it "binds" the axle.

I wish a G7 racer would chime in here.


Paul Wolcott

#115 Martin

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 05:39 PM

Interesting problem so I did a little digging because i thought I would be clever and stick a narrow strip of lead over the magnet, Wrong. But a Titanium or aluminum axle may be the answer, just don't crash.

 

  • No material can block a magnetic field
  • Lead most definitely has little to no effect on magnetic fields
  • If you want to block out magnetic "force," your best bet is to re-route magnetic field lines (lines of magnetic flux) around the object that is sensitive to those lines. Do this by shielding the object in a material with a much higher magnetic permeability of the surrounding materials.

Martin Windmill

#116 Martin

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 06:03 PM

I just noticed something Paul, if the motor were to drive off the end bell side the magnets would be further away from the axle. Would that good or bad for handling.?  


Martin Windmill

#117 old & gray

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 06:17 PM

Paul,

 

Good plan using the aluminum tube when it is straight. For a non magnetic axle try titanium or 300 series stainless steel.


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#118 Bill from NH

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 07:38 PM

K&S sells 12" lengths of 3/32 stainless, stock # 87133. I don't know if it's the same material as Bob mentioned above or not.


Bill Fernald
 

I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 


#119 old & gray

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 08:43 PM

K&S sells 12" lengths of 3/32 stainless, stock # 87133. I don't know if it's the same material as Bob mentioned above or not.

 

300 series SS is non magnetic

400 series SS is magnetic


Bob Schlain

#120 MSwiss

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 09:14 PM

That's not strong enough for a rear axle.

 

According to a previous thread, Foamy says the stainless is weaker than piano wire.

 

Guys are racing these motors, in normal cars, with normal axles.


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Mike Swiss
 
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516


#121 Pablo

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 05:34 PM


Paul Wolcott

#122 Martin

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 08:02 PM

So Paul, I use 3/32" and 1/8" Tungsten for TIG welding its not magnetic and really strong straight and ground to size.  I will warn you it is heaver that Steele. 

 I assume my suggestion of turning the motor 180 degrees was not to your liking.As in its such a bad idea it not worth a response. Do those motors have timing or would it move the weight forward and to the right?

Can those motors be mounted from either end?


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#123 Pablo

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 08:35 PM

Yes, FK motors are timed.

Yes, if mounted 180 degrees out, it would move the weight forward and to the right slightly.

Yes, an FK motor could be mounted either end - there is no rule against it.

 

The motor would rotate in the wrong direction, you wouldn't be able to make it work properly without a lot of junk engineering, moving the motor slightly forward and to the right wouldn't have much effect, and in the end it wouldn't solve the problem.

 

The thing that surprises me is, I'm the only person I know of who has noticed and reported the situation :)


Paul Wolcott

#124 Martin

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 10:35 PM

I will send you a 3/32" Tungsten axle if you want to try that? PM your address with a length, I checked It is non magnetic. It could be your little speed secret? 


Martin Windmill

#125 MSwiss

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 12:32 PM

I think the problem with tungsten axles is they will snap in a moderate crash.

Mike Swiss
 
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516






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