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Ferrari 330 P4 Jail Door car


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 05:12 PM

Body: Outisight Ferrari 330 P4 (#424)

 

Chassis: Inline, inspired by, but not an exact copy of, Howie Ursaner's 1967 ARCO car,  WB 4", width 3 1/8"

 

Motor: Pro Slot endbell drive arm 60/28, Speed FX magnets, Gold Dust brushes and springs.

Mabuchi can w/ ProSlot ball bearing, Tradeship endbell, Professor Motor 36D brush holders and post protectors.

 

IMG_1145.JPG


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Paul Wolcott




#2 Pablo

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 06:24 PM

Endbell hardware in place, but screws not yet tightened.

 

IMG_1164.JPG

 

In a perfect world, once the EB screws are tightened the shaft tool should drop through the brush tool under it's own weight.

 

IMG_1162.JPG

 

This one did. :dance3: I always try and get it as close as possible.

 

It's not an absolute requirement for good performance, but I do get a thrill out of it :crazy:


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:30 PM

Magnets shimmed and CA glued in place using a .560 slug.

 

IMG_1170.JPG

 

Motor is ready. I've built enough of these to have it "down pat".  Ain't braggin'; just sayin' :)

 

IMG_1172.JPG


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#4 Pablo

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 11:40 AM

To ensure the Champion 1/8 washers are perfectly centered on the axle, I used a couple wraps of aluminum foil over the aluminum dummy axle.

 

IMG_1180.JPG

 

Worked out nice, and the solder wicked vertically all the way up the Champion bushing, locking it to the tube.

 

IMG_1189.JPG


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#5 Mbloes

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 04:55 PM

Wait, aren't you supposed to be working?


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 05:34 PM

Hi Mike B. :D  You are right, I should be looking for a new job. As soon as I finish this Ferrari.......


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#7 Pablo

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Posted 30 April 2016 - 01:19 PM

The method I chose to increase the width to 3 1/8 yet still retain the Ursaner style was,

"do-nothing" .063 rods soldered to the third rails, same length as the .032 pans.

All they do besides increase width is add a little more weight and stiffen the chassis a little.

 

IMG_1246.JPG


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 01 May 2016 - 07:44 PM

Here is my rough plan for the drop arm. Not sure yet.

 

IMG_1250.JPG


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#9 Hworth08

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 10:14 AM

Maybe consider a piece of K&S plate with piano wire bent and wrapped into "some kind of" shape to hold a piece of 7/32nds tubing to hold the guide?

 

That's what Gene Husting did for the first angle-winder if a reference would help.


Don Hollingsworth

#10 Pablo

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 11:36 AM

That is one of my options, thanks Don :)

If I chose that method, I'd make it as per Morrissey in his "East + West: A Combination" Ursaner build in Model Car Journal 19 Jan '69.


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 04:55 PM

Modified Cobra drop arm/Cobra tongue.

 

IMG_1258.JPG

 


Paul Wolcott

#12 Pablo

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 12:57 PM

As always, .065 stainless hypodermic tubing inside 3/32 brass tubes for the drop arm hinge.

 

IMG_1276.JPG


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#13 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 02:16 PM

I came across a procedure to shrink brass tubing so it tightly fits .0625 piano wire in hinge situations, such as for drop arms. As soon as I have the opportunity to try it, I'll let you know if it works.


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#14 Pablo

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 07:50 AM

I really like Howie's design. Hope I didn't stray too far from it.

 

IMG_1292.JPG

 

IMG_1300.JPG

 

Upstop/downstop - like Sinatra, "I did it my way" :)

 

IMG_1325.JPG

 

IMG_1331.JPG


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#15 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 08:58 AM

Beautiful job Pablo :good:

 

I enjoy taking chassis designs from the publications of the day and adding my own touches to them. That what I did in the day and I still enjoy doing it now. :victory:


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#16 Pablo

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 10:01 AM

Thanks Rick !! I hope I did justice to the Riggen AA wheels you gifted me.

Fronts mike at .762 and rears .886.

 

IMG_1339.JPG

 

 


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#17 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 10:04 AM

They look great Pablo. Those "O-Ring" reproduction fronts really look "the business" when ground down.


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#18 Howie Ursaner

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 11:17 AM

I actually raced this chassis with a P4 before the Arco Nats. There are pics of that. Beautiful work Pablo. 


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 11:52 AM

Thanks Howie, I am honored by your post  :sun_bespectacled:

I saw the P4 info on Rick's thread, so it was a natural choice for me on this one.

 

New Riggen wheels are so beautiful, inserts would ruin it.

So simply I polished the axle ends with 2,000 sandpaper.

 

IMG_1344.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#20 Pablo

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 10:21 AM

Ready for track test this Saturday. Still waiting for decals, so I'll just slap a practice body on it.

 

IMG_1360.JPG

 

Cobra lead wires, Jet Flag, and Prime Racing braid.

 

IMG_1361.JPG

 

IMG_1364.JPG


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#21 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 11:13 AM

The Prime Racing braid will someday be a collector's item. I first met Mark Schlussman at a warm-up race to the '97 Nats. He had just bought his balancer & was starting his slot racing company.


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#22 Pablo

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Posted 08 May 2016 - 06:15 PM

Track test results: excellent.

- Handling, power, gearing: perfect. :good: The 30 tooth Cox crown stays.

- Lead wire routing needs to be improved.

 


Paul Wolcott

#23 Pablo

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:06 AM

USPS lost track of my "gumballs 'n numbers" decal order.

Professor Motor made it right - thanks to them for excellent customer service.

How USPS can lose track of something sent with a tracking # is not easy to explain, but, whatever. :o

Now, where did I put that doggone bottle of Faux Glaze ? :D

 

IMG_1459.JPG

 

I like the Cobra blue lead wires from PCH, but I wasn't happy with my routing method.

So I cut 'em off and decided to switch to Marklin train wire.

 

IMG_1461.JPG

 

Post-test inspection revealed a crack in the (expensive) Tradeship endbell.

 

IMG_1458.JPG

 

Maybe I torqued the screw too much, maybe not. Such is life using 45 year old parts.

Some of these lately have been coming from Electric Dreams with cracks and corrosion before even opening the bags.

In any event, The Wolcott Ranch can't send it out like that. So I'll eat it.

 

As long as I'm having to fix all this stuff, might as well do a complete teardown and throw the chassis in the tumbler for a quickie :D

 


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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:21 AM

Hi Pablo,

 

The Marklin wire will look really cool too.

 

Your closeup picture shows the 40+ year old plastic endbell cracked by ( or at least spread open by) the self tapping motor mount screw. This problem was plaguing my builds especially with Mabuchi and Tradeship endbells.  :dash2:   I started cutting the screw threads with a 2-56 tap and using machine screws instead of self tapping screws and no more splitting problems. :dance4:  Even if the endbell is split to begin with, the split can be glued, clamped together and then the hole tapped. This will minimize the split from opening up when the screw is inserted. 

 

Sorry for all the babbling! :laugh2:  Your build is beautiful   :good:


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 11:57 PM

Thanks, Rick :good:

 

The round head brass screws I used are correct - #2-56. Not self-tapping.

These virgin Tradeship endbells came from the only source I know of, at full retail premium price.

Most, if not all, are already cracked and corroded right out of the bag.

Not complaining - just saying, what few are left on this Earth, enjoy 'em while you can.

They are not long for this world.

 

Having said that, Rick, thanks for the advice. I do own a 2-56 tap, but haven't used it yet.

From now on, I'll run it through the holes to ensure they are true. :victory:

 

IMG_1468.JPG

 

 


Paul Wolcott

#26 Pablo

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 01:18 AM

A minute crack always indicates a bigger split down stream; this was a classic case.

I'm glad I caught this before a major failure.

 

IMG_1482.JPG

 

Motor is happy; perfect brush curvature is always a good indicator.

 

IMG_1485.JPG

 

Brush faces are perfectly shiny, comm looks fine, and everything else looks good.

So it's a simple matter of swapping the endbell :)

 

 

 


Paul Wolcott

#27 Bill from NH

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 06:48 AM

Before you run the 2-56 tap in, first run a #50 tap drill in.


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 08:41 AM

Is that a special tool, or just a regular .0700 drill bit, Sir ?


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#29 dc-65x

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 09:39 AM

Hi Pablo,

 

The #50 drill bit is .070" and is the standard tap drill size for a 2-56 screw in most metals. You can get away with a slightly smaller tap drill hole in plastic.

 

The thing about most self tapping screws is that they swedge or form their threads as they are forced into the hole. This acts like a wedge to potentially split the brittle endbell.

 

The 2-56 tap will CUT the threads with little of the force that could cause the endbell to split.


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 09:52 AM

Thanks Rick, I'll drill with the .07 bit before tapping :good:

 

Decals on the inside as usual.

 

IMG_1513.JPG

 

Driver painted by Jairus Watson.

 

IMG_1515.JPG


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 10:09 AM

Pablo, it can be a bit tricky to tap the hole "straight" or in alignment with the hole. If you don't have a neato tapping fixture.........

 

toys- 004.JPG

 

..........you can get good results without the neato gizmo by going slowly and checking that the tap is straight as you go:

 

Turn the tap in a 1/2 turn or so while looking at the front view for straightness.

 

Then look at the side view for straightness. You'll probably see that the tap is not quite straight from that view.

 

Carefully straighten the tap as you crank in another 1/2 turn or so.

 

Then look at it from the front view again and repeat the process.

 

Hopefully after couple of turns the tap is going in straight because beyond that, "you've bought what you've got!" :crazy:


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 11:01 PM

Improvements - new endbell and the motor is 100% ready to rock again - Marklin wires - arm dyed  :good:

 

IMG_1522.JPG

 

Special thanks to my vintage mentors, Bill from NH, and dc-65x - they always keep me straight :victory: :D


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#33 Régis4446

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 03:53 AM

Hi Pablo, very nice work.

Originally, the glue is behind the decal.
How do you stick decals inside the body.
Régis Baron

#34 Pablo

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 10:12 AM

Thanks. I use the Tom Andersen inside decal method. It is only for acrylic paints.

A bottle of Faux Glaze only costs a few bucks on Amazon. Some guys use Mod Podge.

 

When the decal is ready to apply, brush on a film of the glaze a little bigger than the decal.

Apply the decal and position it. Let dry for a few hours. If you are in a rush, blow drying works but don't overheat it.

Once dry, re-coat them, dry,etc. I usually do 3 coats. As Tom said, "You DON'T want paint seeping under them" :)

If you apply too much it simply runs off - wick it off with a paper towel.

The excess on the outer edges leaves a film when it dries - don't worry about it - it disappears once the paint is applied.

 

When you spray your first coat of paint, make it as fine and light as possible.


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#35 Régis4446

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 01:37 PM

Pablo, thank you
Régis Baron

#36 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 07:55 PM

IIRC, Faux Glaze is an acrylic varnish, When I couldn't find any locally, I ordered it off the net.Two alternatives to the Faux Glaze that could be used are Alclad & Createx clear paints, with Alclad being solvent-based, Createx being water-based acrylic. Either will provide a surface on the lexan for the decal to "bite-into." I forget when Tom Andersen first set up his website, but I have Yahoo notes from Doug Azary in 2004 detailing decals placed on the inside of bodies using the Alclad.


Bill Fernald

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#37 Pablo

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 08:14 PM

Régis, you are welcome.

 

Car is ready to go, and body paint turned out nice, I think.

Somebody with a steadier hand than me will need to do the Sharpie lines :)

IMG_1541.JPG


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#38 Bud Greene

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 08:37 PM

Damn that looks good keep up the good work

#39 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 08:49 PM

Errant Sharpie lines can be easily removed using lighter fluid on a Q-tip. :laugh2: I love bodies with deep panel lines. :heart:


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 01:51 PM

Thanks Bud :D :dance3:

 

Bill, I've been working on this body for days and I'm not coming anywhere near it with a Sharpie in my hand.

It would be like handing a Crayon to a child in an art museum :laugh2:

 

This may be the last time I get an easy opportunity to take some topside close ups of this beastie, so I took advantage of it :)

 

All 4 rotating surfaces on the flag assembly were faced using a Magnehone.

Flag was blueprinted using an R-Geo sanding block, Cahoza and Magnehone threaders.

It rotates as nice, with minimal wobble, as any retro or modern race car I own.

Prime Braids come soldered to the ends, stock - they will not fail.

Brass clips are Champion 820's.

There are two Koford phosphorous-bronze 10 thou spacers under the flag, and one above it.

The one up top is a spare in case you need to add one below.

Front axle is an absolutely straight and polished length of PCH bulk. Thin Koford spacers act as buffers between wheels and tube ends.

 

IMG_1546.JPG

 

Best lead wire routing method for me it isn't just style.

This was the best way I found on this particular car to achieve gentle self-centering influence on the Jet Flag.

 

IMG_1549.JPG

 

Track test has already been completed to my satisfaction, so it may seem a moot point but -

Drivetrain test on this beast is absolutely scary powerful, smooth, and sounds very sexy.

 

IMG_1568.JPG

 

Usually Cox Crowns suck. This new 30T is as true as any I've ever seen.

I had the option to use a Weldun, but the Cox works fine so it stayed.

 

IMG_1569.JPG

 

I hate seeing genuine original Riggen AA wheels depart The Ranch, but nobody lives forever.

If I kept the car for myself and wanted to run it, I'd make up a set of 4 beater wheels and keep these Riggens locked up in a fire proof safe.

 

IMG_1572.JPG

 

IMG_1576.JPG

 

I've made my share of interior mounting mistakes - but not this time. 

Clear packing tape works fine and won't lift paint like stronger tapes sometimes do.

Here, 3 very small pieces do the trick. I'd prefer my interior to be loose on the body and not destroy any decals or paint if removed.

As opposed to being attached rigidly and lift things when removed.

 

IMG_1591.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#41 Pablo

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 09:57 PM

Done. On a 1 to 10 scale, I'll critique my own work:

Mechanically: 9.8

Paint, decals, mounting and trimming: 7.5

Jairus Watson interior: 10

 

The $6 O/S body wasn't designed for vintage cars - it's a thin race body.

One side is always thinner than the other - nature of the beast :D

 

IMG_1592.JPG

 

IMG_1603.JPG

 

IMG_1617.JPG

 

IMG_1631.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#42 Samiam

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 10:51 PM

Pablo,

 

Another great build.  :good: 

 

The only thing I can find wrong with it is that it's not in my box. :D


Sam Levitch
 
When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail.
Support your local raceway, or you won't have one.
Slot cars are quad-pods.
Support your "Local Racer."
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#43 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 11:10 PM

What Sam, no Pablo chassis? I got one to build up. :clapping:


Bill Fernald

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#44 gc4895

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Posted 17 May 2016 - 11:16 PM

What a beauty! I clearly remember the Saturday I was able to go from my La Cucaracha to a jail door chassis with Ferrari body. It was when I started asking chassis questions. Next thing I knew, I was asking my dad for a soldering iron.
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Mark Bauer

#45 Bill from NH

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 06:05 AM

The $6 O/S body wasn't designed for vintage cars - it's a thin retro race body.

One side is always thinner than the other - nature of the beast :D

 

How thick was that body supposed to be? Was it a .007 body or a .010 body? I'm sure you know why some manufacturer's bodies are always thinner on one side than the other.  :)


Bill Fernald

i don't need to use GOOGLE, my wife knows everything. :laugh2: 


#46 Pablo

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 07:05 AM

It isn't legal for IRRA® or RETRO, so I assume it's 7 thou.

Good catch, Bill, I corrected my text.


Paul Wolcott

#47 Pete L.

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 08:08 AM

Pablo,

 

 Great work, thanks for sharing !!! 


Peter J. Linszky

C.A.R.S. Vintage Slot Car Club

#48 Pablo

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 08:27 AM

Thank you, gentlemen :D Weight is 143 grams.

It's a stable car and the big ProSlot arm pushes it effortlessly.

2 final photos:

 

IMG_1639.JPG

 

IMG_1640.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#49 Jairus

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 09:47 AM

Looks GREAT! :victory: :heat:


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#50 Gary Adams

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 11:10 AM

Absolutely stunning Pablo! Having intense Riggen wheel envy at this moment . . . :shok:


Straights are for fast cars. Turns are for fast drivers.






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