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Ferrari 330 P4 Jail Door car


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 05:12 PM

Body: Outisight Ferrari 330 P4 (#424)

 

Chassis: Inline, inspired by, but not an exact copy of, Howie Ursaner's 1967 ARCO car,  WB 4", width 3 1/8"

 

Motor: Pro Slot endbell drive arm 60/28, Speed FX magnets, Gold Dust brushes and springs.

Mabuchi can w/ ProSlot ball bearing, Tradeship endbell, Professor Motor 36D brush holders and post protectors.

 

IMG_1145.JPG


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Paul Wolcott




#2 Pablo

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 06:24 PM

Endbell hardware in place, but screws not yet tightened.

 

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In a perfect world, once the EB screws are tightened the shaft tool should drop through the brush tool under it's own weight.

 

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This one did. :dance3: I always try and get it as close as possible.

 

It's not an absolute requirement for good performance, but I do get a thrill out of it :crazy:


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:30 PM

Magnets shimmed and CA glued in place using a .560 slug.

 

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Motor is ready. I've built enough of these to have it "down pat".  Ain't braggin'; just sayin' :)

 

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#4 Pablo

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 11:40 AM

To ensure the Champion 1/8 washers are perfectly centered on the axle, I used a couple wraps of aluminum foil over the aluminum dummy axle.

 

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Worked out nice, and the solder wicked vertically all the way up the Champion bushing, locking it to the tube.

 

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#5 Mbloes

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 04:55 PM

Wait, aren't you supposed to be working?


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 29 April 2016 - 05:34 PM

Hi Mike B. :D  You are right, I should be looking for a new job. As soon as I finish this Ferrari.......


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#7 Pablo

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Posted 30 April 2016 - 01:19 PM

The method I chose to increase the width to 3 1/8 yet still retain the Ursaner style was,

"do-nothing" .063 rods soldered to the third rails, same length as the .032 pans.

All they do besides increase width is add a little more weight and stiffen the chassis a little.

 

IMG_1246.JPG


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 01 May 2016 - 07:44 PM

Here is my rough plan for the drop arm. Not sure yet.

 

IMG_1250.JPG


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#9 Hworth08

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 10:14 AM

Maybe consider a piece of K&S plate with piano wire bent and wrapped into "some kind of" shape to hold a piece of 7/32nds tubing to hold the guide?

 

That's what Gene Husting did for the first angle-winder if a reference would help.


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#10 Pablo

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 11:36 AM

That is one of my options, thanks Don :)

If I chose that method, I'd make it as per Morrissey in his "East + West: A Combination" Ursaner build in Model Car Journal 19 Jan '69.


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 04:55 PM

Modified Cobra drop arm/Cobra tongue.

 

IMG_1258.JPG

 


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 12:57 PM

As always, .065 stainless hypodermic tubing inside 3/32 brass tubes for the drop arm hinge.

 

IMG_1276.JPG


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#13 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 02:16 PM

I came across a procedure to shrink brass tubing so it tightly fits .0625 piano wire in hinge situations, such as for drop arms. As soon as I have the opportunity to try it, I'll let you know if it works.


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#14 Pablo

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 07:50 AM

I really like Howie's design. Hope I didn't stray too far from it.

 

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Upstop/downstop - like Sinatra, "I did it my way" :)

 

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#15 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 08:58 AM

Beautiful job Pablo :good:

 

I enjoy taking chassis designs from the publications of the day and adding my own touches to them. That what I did in the day and I still enjoy doing it now. :victory:


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#16 Pablo

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 10:01 AM

Thanks Rick !! I hope I did justice to the Riggen AA wheels you gifted me.

Fronts mike at .762 and rears .886.

 

IMG_1339.JPG

 

 


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#17 dc-65x

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 10:04 AM

They look great Pablo. Those "O-Ring" reproduction fronts really look "the business" when ground down.


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#18 Howie Ursaner

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 11:17 AM

I actually raced this chassis with a P4 before the Arco Nats. There are pics of that. Beautiful work Pablo. 


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 11:52 AM

Thanks Howie, I am honored by your post  :sun_bespectacled:

I saw the P4 info on Rick's thread, so it was a natural choice for me on this one.

 

New Riggen wheels are so beautiful, inserts would ruin it.

So simply I polished the axle ends with 2,000 sandpaper.

 

IMG_1344.JPG


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#20 Pablo

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 10:21 AM

Ready for track test this Saturday. Still waiting for decals, so I'll just slap a practice body on it.

 

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Cobra lead wires, Jet Flag, and Prime Racing braid.

 

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#21 Bill from NH

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 11:13 AM

The Prime Racing braid will someday be a collector's item. I first met Mark Schlussman at a warm-up race to the '97 Nats. He had just bought his balancer & was starting his slot racing company.


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#22 Pablo

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Posted 08 May 2016 - 06:15 PM

Track test results: excellent.

- Handling, power, gearing: perfect. :good: The 30 tooth Cox crown stays.

- Lead wire routing needs to be improved.

 


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:06 AM

USPS lost track of my "gumballs 'n numbers" decal order.

Professor Motor made it right - thanks to them for excellent customer service.

How USPS can lose track of something sent with a tracking # is not easy to explain, but, whatever. :o

Now, where did I put that doggone bottle of Faux Glaze ? :D

 

IMG_1459.JPG

 

I like the Cobra blue lead wires from PCH, but I wasn't happy with my routing method.

So I cut 'em off and decided to switch to Marklin train wire.

 

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Post-test inspection revealed a crack in the (expensive) Tradeship endbell.

 

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Maybe I torqued the screw too much, maybe not. Such is life using 45 year old parts.

Some of these lately have been coming from Electric Dreams with cracks and corrosion before even opening the bags.

In any event, The Wolcott Ranch can't send it out like that. So I'll eat it.

 

As long as I'm having to fix all this stuff, might as well do a complete teardown and throw the chassis in the tumbler for a quickie :D

 


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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 09:21 AM

Hi Pablo,

 

The Marklin wire will look really cool too.

 

Your closeup picture shows the 40+ year old plastic endbell cracked by ( or at least spread open by) the self tapping motor mount screw. This problem was plaguing my builds especially with Mabuchi and Tradeship endbells.  :dash2:   I started cutting the screw threads with a 2-56 tap and using machine screws instead of self tapping screws and no more splitting problems. :dance4:  Even if the endbell is split to begin with, the split can be glued, clamped together and then the hole tapped. This will minimize the split from opening up when the screw is inserted. 

 

Sorry for all the babbling! :laugh2:  Your build is beautiful   :good:


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 11:57 PM

Thanks, Rick :good:

 

The round head brass screws I used are correct - #2-56. Not self-tapping.

These virgin Tradeship endbells came from the only source I know of, at full retail premium price.

Most, if not all, are already cracked and corroded right out of the bag.

Not complaining - just saying, what few are left on this Earth, enjoy 'em while you can.

They are not long for this world.

 

Having said that, Rick, thanks for the advice. I do own a 2-56 tap, but haven't used it yet.

From now on, I'll run it through the holes to ensure they are true. :victory:

 

IMG_1468.JPG

 

 


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