Bill, I've been working on this body for days and I'm not coming anywhere near it with a Sharpie in my hand.
It would be like handing a Crayon to a child in an art museum
This may be the last time I get an easy opportunity to take some topside close ups of this beastie, so I took advantage of it
All 4 rotating surfaces on the flag assembly were faced using a Magnehone.
Flag was blueprinted using an R-Geo sanding block, Cahoza and Magnehone threaders.
It rotates as nice, with minimal wobble, as any retro or modern race car I own.
Prime Braids come soldered to the ends, stock - they will not fail.
Brass clips are Champion 820's.
There are two Koford phosphorous-bronze 10 thou spacers under the flag, and one above it.
The one up top is a spare in case you need to add one below.
Front axle is an absolutely straight and polished length of PCH bulk. Thin Koford spacers act as buffers between wheels and tube ends.
Best lead wire routing method for me it isn't just style.
This was the best way I found on this particular car to achieve gentle self-centering influence on the Jet Flag.
Track test has already been completed to my satisfaction, so it may seem a moot point but -
Drivetrain test on this beast is absolutely scary powerful, smooth, and sounds very sexy.
Usually Cox Crowns suck. This new 30T is as true as any I've ever seen.
I had the option to use a Weldun, but the Cox works fine so it stayed.
I hate seeing genuine original Riggen AA wheels depart The Ranch, but nobody lives forever.
If I kept the car for myself and wanted to run it, I'd make up a set of 4 beater wheels and keep these Riggens locked up in a fire proof safe.
I've made my share of interior mounting mistakes - but not this time.
Clear packing tape works fine and won't lift paint like stronger tapes sometimes do.
Here, 3 very small pieces do the trick. I'd prefer my interior to be loose on the body and not destroy any decals or paint if removed.
As opposed to being attached rigidly and lift things when removed.