51 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

A minute crack always indicates a bigger split down stream; this was a classic case.

I'm glad I caught this before a major failure.

 

 

Motor is happy; perfect brush curvature is always a good indicator.

 

 

Brush faces are perfectly shiny, comm looks fine, and everything else looks good.

So it's a simple matter of swapping the endbell

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Before you run the 2-56 tap in, first run a #50 tap drill in.

[Pablo]

Is that a special tool, or just a regular .0700 drill bit, Sir ?

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

 

The #50 drill bit is .070" and is the standard tap drill size for a 2-56 screw in most metals. You can get away with a slightly smaller tap drill hole in plastic.

 

The thing about most self tapping screws is that they swedge or form their threads as they are forced into the hole. This acts like a wedge to potentially split the brittle endbell.

 

The 2-56 tap will CUT the threads with little of the force that could cause the endbell to split.

[Pablo]

Thanks Rick, I'll drill with the .07 bit before tapping

 

Decals on the inside as usual.

 

 

Driver painted by Jairus Watson.

 

[dc-65x]

Pablo, it can be a bit tricky to tap the hole "straight" or in alignment with the hole. If you don't have a neato tapping fixture.........

 

 

..........you can get good results without the neato gizmo by going slowly and checking that the tap is straight as you go:

 

Turn the tap in a 1/2 turn or so while looking at the front view for straightness.

 

Then look at the side view for straightness. You'll probably see that the tap is not quite straight from that view.

 

Carefully straighten the tap as you crank in another 1/2 turn or so.

 

Then look at it from the front view again and repeat the process.

 

Hopefully after couple of turns the tap is going in straight because beyond that, "you've bought what you've got!"

[Pablo]

Improvements - new endbell and the motor is 100% ready to rock again - Marklin wires - arm dyed 

 

 

Special thanks to my vintage mentors, Bill from NH, and dc-65x - they always keep me straight

[Regis4446]

Hi Pablo, very nice work.

Originally, the glue is behind the decal.
How do you stick decals inside the body.

[Pablo]

Thanks. I use the Tom Andersen inside decal method. It is only for acrylic paints.

A bottle of Faux Glaze only costs a few bucks on Amazon. Some guys use Mod Podge.

 

When the decal is ready to apply, brush on a film of the glaze a little bigger than the decal.

Apply the decal and position it. Let dry for a few hours. If you are in a rush, blow drying works but don't overheat it.

Once dry, re-coat them, dry,etc. I usually do 3 coats. As Tom said, "You DON'T want paint seeping under them"

If you apply too much it simply runs off - wick it off with a paper towel.

The excess on the outer edges leaves a film when it dries - don't worry about it - it disappears once the paint is applied.

 

When you spray your first coat of paint, make it as fine and light as possible.

[Regis4446]

Pablo, thank you

[Bill from NH]

IIRC, Faux Glaze is an acrylic varnish, When I couldn't find any locally, I ordered it off the net.Two alternatives to the Faux Glaze that could be used are Alclad & Createx clear paints, with Alclad being solvent-based, Createx being water-based acrylic. Either will provide a surface on the lexan for the decal to "bite-into." I forget when Tom Andersen first set up his website, but I have Yahoo notes from Doug Azary in 2004 detailing decals placed on the inside of bodies using the Alclad.

[Pablo]

Régis, you are welcome.

 

Car is ready to go, and body paint turned out nice, I think.

Somebody with a steadier hand than me will need to do the Sharpie lines

[Bud Greene]

Damn that looks good keep up the good work

[Bill from NH]

Errant Sharpie lines can be easily removed using lighter fluid on a Q-tip.  I love bodies with deep panel lines.

[Pablo]

Thanks Bud

 

Bill, I've been working on this body for days and I'm not coming anywhere near it with a Sharpie in my hand.

It would be like handing a Crayon to a child in an art museum

 

This may be the last time I get an easy opportunity to take some topside close ups of this beastie, so I took advantage of it

 

All 4 rotating surfaces on the flag assembly were faced using a Magnehone.

Flag was blueprinted using an R-Geo sanding block, Cahoza and Magnehone threaders.

It rotates as nice, with minimal wobble, as any retro or modern race car I own.

Prime Braids come soldered to the ends, stock - they will not fail.

Brass clips are Champion 820's.

There are two Koford phosphorous-bronze 10 thou spacers under the flag, and one above it.

The one up top is a spare in case you need to add one below.

Front axle is an absolutely straight and polished length of PCH bulk. Thin Koford spacers act as buffers between wheels and tube ends.

 

 

Best lead wire routing method for me it isn't just style.

This was the best way I found on this particular car to achieve gentle self-centering influence on the Jet Flag.

 

 

Track test has already been completed to my satisfaction, so it may seem a moot point but -

Drivetrain test on this beast is absolutely scary powerful, smooth, and sounds very sexy.

 

 

Usually Cox Crowns suck. This new 30T is as true as any I've ever seen.

I had the option to use a Weldun, but the Cox works fine so it stayed.

 

 

I hate seeing genuine original Riggen AA wheels depart The Ranch, but nobody lives forever.

If I kept the car for myself and wanted to run it, I'd make up a set of 4 beater wheels and keep these Riggens locked up in a fire proof safe.

 

 

 

I've made my share of interior mounting mistakes - but not this time. 

Clear packing tape works fine and won't lift paint like stronger tapes sometimes do.

Here, 3 very small pieces do the trick. I'd prefer my interior to be loose on the body and not destroy any decals or paint if removed.

As opposed to being attached rigidly and lift things when removed.

 

[Pablo]

Done. On a 1 to 10 scale, I'll critique my own work:

Mechanically: 9.8

Paint, decals, mounting and trimming: 7.5

Jairus Watson interior: 10

 

The $6 O/S body wasn't designed for vintage cars - it's a thin race body.

One side is always thinner than the other - nature of the beast

 

 

 

 

[Samiam]

Pablo,

 

Another great build.   

 

The only thing I can find wrong with it is that it's not in my box.

[Bill from NH]

What Sam, no Pablo chassis? I got one to build up.

[gc4895]

What a beauty! I clearly remember the Saturday I was able to go from my La Cucaracha to a jail door chassis with Ferrari body. It was when I started asking chassis questions. Next thing I knew, I was asking my dad for a soldering iron.

[Bill from NH]

The $6 O/S body wasn't designed for vintage cars - it's a thin retro race body.

One side is always thinner than the other - nature of the beast

 

How thick was that body supposed to be? Was it a .007 body or a .010 body? I'm sure you know why some manufacturer's bodies are always thinner on one side than the other. 

[Pablo]

It isn't legal for IRRA® or RETRO, so I assume it's 7 thou.

Good catch, Bill, I corrected my text.

[Pete L.]

Pablo,

 

 Great work, thanks for sharing !!! 

[Pablo]

Thank you, gentlemen Weight is 143 grams.

It's a stable car and the big ProSlot arm pushes it effortlessly.

2 final photos:

 

 

[Jairus]

Looks GREAT!

[Gary Adams]

Absolutely stunning Pablo! Having intense Riggen wheel envy at this moment . . .