13 replies to this topic

[JimF]

Sometimes, ya just get a little bogged down in the building thing. Recently, it's been a pleasant glut of customer cars.....(you want......what?.......and when?) then there's been repair work, then some stuff for my own race fleet (mostly didn't get done) then of course there's race prep, test projects, and seemingly myriads of other things. Sorta seems like a job sometimes.

 

But then.....the stuff gets done and dropped off or mailed or put in the box and all that. And eventually, the hobby aspect surfaces a little. So a couple days back, Rick B (R-Geo) sent me a nosepiece that he just punched and in thinking about what to do with it, I realized that I hadn't done a 1/32 car in a long while. So off I went on something that I didn't need to do.....but wanted to do. I didn't intend to post this, so I didn't take step by step pics but I do have a few of the finished product.

 

This shows the nosepice as issued and the final product. I've used this part before and it's my favorite startup for an anglewinder build.

 

• This one is .040" and is a good weight for a lot of things.
• The center leg can be cut very short for a Retro Pro, left longer for a scaley car or whatever.
• The 1 1/8" center width is a very good point for a Pro-Slot/Hawk motor, but does (just) fit an FK.

 

 

Rear end closeup:

 

• Motor angle is about 12* the off side frame rail is left straight.
• The rear weight tabs are 1/16" brass and run roughly 4 gr. ea.
• Single main rail is .062 wire.
• Side pans are .062" X 1/2" brass strip.
• Rear stops are .047 wire in 3/32" box tube.

 

 

 

Nose detail:

 

• Guide tongue is a steel one from R-Geo with a minimal offset.
• Pan hinges are the inboard 3/32" tubes with .055 wire for hinge rods.
• The outboard ones that you see are the forward up/down stops. 047 wire in 3/32" tubes.

 

 

Bottom view:

 

 

 

Finished and set up:

 

• Motor is H & R Lightning2 @ 11-40
• Tires are JK 8713PT cut down to .740 and about .500 wide.
• Gear side tire is reversed to nest over the spur gear but with this tire width.....not really necessary.
• Car can take up to about .580 wide rear tires but I can never make them work with tires that wide.

 

 

Rear end closeup:

 

• This shows how close the fit is on an FK.
• A Proslot or Hawk is a much easier fit.

 

 

Ready to go:

 

• Bodied up with a JK TI-22...this is 104 gr with the added on lead weights shown above.

 

 

 

Testing soon.....as always.....we'll see.

 

 

 

 

 

[Slot Car Mods Magazine]

That's a good looking chassis...!!!

[havlicek]

That's a good looking chassis...!!!

 

 

Indeed it is!

 

-john

[boxerdog]

I bet one of them there strap-nuts would fit in that thing! Kind of a stress-test!

[JimF]

I bet one of them there strap-nuts would fit in that thing! Kind of a stress-test!

 

So would a built "Big Dog" probably equally stressful.............

[Pat Taylor]

Hello, I am new to this Scratch building thing. I have noticed that most cars are built on either a In-Line configuration or an Angle winder, is there a reason why the Side-winder is not built ?  Just curious.

 

Pat Taylor

[Bill from NH]

Pat, a few full sidewinders are built, but most scratchbuilt classes specify inline gearing, anglewinder gearing, or both. A full sidewinder chassis would require more work to build it so it could use different gear ratios whenever the gearing needed to be changed.

[JimF]

Pat,...........a little more info for you.

 

For one of the motors that are commonly used in Retro to be used full sidewinder, pretty large gears are required and thus, pretty large tires. It can be done, but just isn't done often. Here is a pic of a full sidewinder that I recently completed. It is built for a typical FK motor and is set up for 10-54 gears. The rear tires in this case need to be almost 1" in dia. This was built for a hardbody car. In this case, a bracket is used but it is unnecessary and is in general, more trouble than it is worth.

 

 

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[Pat Taylor]

Jim, thanks for the info. Our club races all plastic cars on MDF except one class were trying to encourage scratch built cars. So i just built my first one from one of your designs in an inline configuration. Im sure it sounds screwy but our "super car " class is for scratch built and plastic cars, BUT to run a lexan body your limited to a 18K motor. the blue hawk seams to be the choice. The plastic bodied cars can run anything, SO lightweight is desired.  The car I built was 83 Grams and runs pretty well for my first, but I had ideas about a side winder or angle winder car ?  I just like your designs and couldn't see re-inventing the wheel.   so anyway that's what sparked my post. Thanks again for responding.

 

Pat T.

[Bill from NH]

Pat can you post photos of your "super car" scratchbuilt chassis. I'd enjoy seeing it. The 1/24 hard body club I sometimes run with now has used the H&R Hawk (18k RPM) on a reduced voltage (10 V?) for several years. On the reduced voltage, one Hawk motor lasts longer than a complete racing season. Back when we had a local commercial track, we ran an inline 1/32 scratchbuilt class using the Playfit Cheetah motor & Betta lexan F1 bodies. This was a fun class that ran for several years. Today, we would have better chassis parts to build these cars.

[Pat Taylor]

I hope this is OK to post here, this is something I copied from Jim F. It is 1/32 scale and 3 7/8 axle centers. One picture is the top of the chassis and the other is the bottom side.

 

 

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[Bill from NH]

Pat, thanks for posting the photos. Top & bottom is what I wanted to see. It looks nice to me.  Post how it handles once you have the opportunity to get some track time on it.

[racie35]

Pat, I know super car was last week I think.....did you run that car? I went by Trimble tonight and seen the crowd there..soon I'll drop in again.

Edit...I see it was a few weeks back at Smiths..let us know how it runs either way.

[Pat Taylor]

First Race for the scratch built super car, I think its a little heavy about 82 Grams. The car handles really well but is about a 1/2 second slower than some of the other Hard body cars. I think I will carve a little of the brass out and see if I can get it lighter ?