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Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 05:32 PM

Based on help from fellow Slotbloggers, my best guess (as of today), this body is an early 1950's Cunningham Sports Car.

 

fb6b20c9c6cb00c616c9a9463f8605d7.jpg

 

IMG_1755.JPG

 

IMG_1762.JPG

 

It's thin - about 8 thou - width is 3", wheelbase 3 3/4".

I like it for a build candidate because the sides are straight, it's light and aerodynamic, and plenty of vertical space for the flag.


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#2 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:01 PM

Here is Philippe de Lespinay's assessment of it:

"The Barchetta is possibly a 1955 Cunningham C6R that had an Offy engine, but I don't recall if this is a repop of an old body or something created in the 1980s... in any case not too great of a rendition."

 

So there we have it - not a rare body, which gives me artistic license to do whatever I want with it :)


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#3 TSR

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:06 PM

Pablo, go for it!!!

#4 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:28 PM

Building a custom motor for it as we speak... :dance3:
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#5 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:55 PM

So there we have it - not a rare body, which gives me artistic license to do whatever I want with it :)

 
Green metalflake with fluorescent yellow and orange flames? :dance3:

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#6 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 08:10 PM

Tradeship endbell shortened by .065" and Mabuchi can shortened by .120"

 

IMG_1767.JPG


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#7 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 08:45 PM

From experience, I know the gimbal housing will fall out anyway once I start drilling a hole for the ball bearing.

So this time I got smart and removed it first thing.

 

IMG_1771.JPG


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#8 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 06:37 AM

Tradeship endbell shortened by .065" and Mabuchi can shortened by .120"

 

1) Where on the endbell did you shorten it by .065"? 
 
2) Are you building a full sidewinder chassis? Is that why you shortened both the can and the endbell? Or, are you wanting to build-up a short length arm without using a zillion spacers in a regular length setup?


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#9 Pablo

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 08:39 AM

1. The part that goes inside the can. It's just excess meat and doesn't weaken anything.

Unless it's trimmed, the stack tops of the Puppy Dog arm contact it before the comm can get close to the brush holders.

 

2. Good question - No, inline. I want a high RPM, low torque, small, light motor.

I'll be using C magnets that are just a hair longer than the .400" stack.

As you pointed out, when the arm is in it's happy spot, there would be a mile of unneeded material aft of the magnets.

I could have taken off a lot more than I did, but then it would start to look freakish :)


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#10 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 12:51 PM

Pablo,

 

Given the short wheelbase (3-3/4"), a short motor would be proportionally correct.  Also, with the inline drive configuration, a short motor will allow more room to locate the drop arm hinge farther back.

 

Keeping that drop arm hinge as far back as possible will also help with what looks like a short guide lead.  Think "trailing pickup guide".  You are going to build it with a drop arm, right?  :shok:

 

On the other hand, building it as a Iso-fulcrum would put what functions as the "drop arm hinge" all the way back close to (or at) the rear axle.

 

Possibilities...  :popcorm1:

 

Build on... :dirol:

 

 

 

 


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 01:39 PM

You're a little ahead of me, Steve :laugh2:

 

Pete L. thinks it's a Mercedes-Benz:

 

Mercedes-Benz.jpg

 

Whatever it is, it's got a brand new rare vintage SKF ball bearing silver soldered to the gimbal gizmo:

 

IMG_1801.JPG

 

IMG_1818.JPG


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 05:58 PM

Professor Motor post protectors and 36D brush holders installed, plus the usual routine:

-can and endbell holes drilled for button screws

-brush holders custom sized (shortened), trued with diamond tool, and soldered to pent roof terminals

-wire attachment tabs tinned

-motor attachment holes tapped 2-56; screws custom sized and polished

-fresh coat of red arm dye

 

IMG_1827.JPG

 


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#13 SlotStox#53

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 06:39 PM

It's Pablo custom motor time :D :good:

Build on Sir .

#14 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:45 PM

TN_Le_Mans-1955-06-12-022.jpg​Cunningham C6-R  (1955 LeMans) per racingsportscars.com.    The (#2) one with a grin is the C5-R v-8 - '53 LeMans.  Still not certain what the shell is......


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#15 John Streisguth

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:50 PM

I think Pete's on the right track.  It just did';t look likes the Cunninghams


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#16 Pablo

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 11:02 AM

Since the BB gimbal isn't secured yet, I used a dummy can to align and secure the brush holders:

 

IMG_1838.JPG

 

Then soldered the gimbal home perfectly true. I used 60/40 to prevent melting the silver solder holding the BB.

 

IMG_1842.JPG


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#17 Pablo

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 01:11 PM

Pro Slot Speed FX "C" magnets in a vintage D can make a hole of about .590 so I cut some steel shims.

A 13mm socket and a hose clamp makes a perfect curve. This time I got smart and secured 'em before clamping.

Did 2 at a time with tape:

 

IMG_1858.JPG


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 10:12 AM

Putting C mags in a D can is tricky - the usual approach is flattening, or removing, the louvers on the can,

then shimming top, bottom, and sides. This time I tried something different.

 

Can ID is .610"; magnet height is about .545", a difference of .065", /2 = .033".

The louvers extend about .050" vertically and I wanted to partially close them to make it .033".

I placed a "C" can straightener inside with the can louvers down, held a big screwdriver on top of the tool inside the cooling hole, and "Bap!"

 

IMG_1855.JPG

 

The first tap took them down to .042", the second tap got it about .035".

Then I tinned a piece of .032" wire and made a clip for the other end that fits between the mags and can.

 

IMG_1851.JPG

 

In the end, I decided to shorten the can all the way. "in for a penny, in for a pound" :)

Inserted mags with a .535" Goat Boy slug slathered in ATF and went crazy with the Krazy Glue.

Then honed them to .538" giving me a total airgap of .023".

 

Motor is done and it sounds like just what the doctor ordered - good smooth revs - not a lot of torque.

Can will be painted later with VHT Burnt Copper.

 

IMG_1877.JPG

 

IMG_1882.JPG

 

 


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 12:39 PM

Did some research and found Pete L. to be correct :good:

It's definitely a Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR which won the 1955 World Sportscar Championship.

 

Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR race car.jpg

 

"The greatest sports racing car ever built — really an unbelievable machine."

Stirling Moss
Hall of Fame Formula One driver and former Mercedes-Benz team 300 SLR race driver

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#20 Pablo

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 01:54 PM

Here's an ISO Mercedes I finished in 2012, painted by Jairus:

 

http://slotblog.net/...nline-by-pablo/


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#21 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 02:31 PM

I forgot about this car. Is it one of Tom Scott's cars?


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#22 Pablo

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 10:10 AM

Correct, Bill.

 

I found a good black and white movie to watch as inspiration for this build -

convicted murderer breaks out of jail, steals a Jaguar, kidnaps a willing blonde, and heads for a sports car race to Mexico.

Wheeeeeeeeeee !! :D

The Jag has similar lines to the Mercedes. Notice how the driver needs a helmet, but the kidnapped blonde doesn't :laugh2:

 

IMG_1914.JPG

 

Thinking about making this car an ISO, but not sure yet.

 

IMG_1922.JPG

 

IMG_1925.JPG

 

 


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 07:35 PM

Parts gathering and planning complete. "Easier to deviate from a known plan than to have no plan" :)

 

IMG_1927.JPG

 

WB 3 3/4" GL 5/16" Width: 3"
Clearance: .032" level
Front wheels: Professor Motor Russkit replica setscrew with EJ's Hobbies #15 tires, 13/16" OD

Rear wheels: Professor Motor Russkit replica setscrew with treated black donuts, 13/16" OD

1/8" axles front and rear

Jet Flag

DUBRO bracket, duffies with Pro Slot ball bearings

Champion steel axle spacers
Crown: 28T Cox
Pinion: 7T Sonic solder-on straight steel
Motor: stock Pro Slot 4002B armature, shortened Mabuchi can with SKF ball bearing, Tradeship endbell,

Professor Motor 36D brush holders, Gold Dust brushes, Speed FX springs and Speed FX "C" magnets.

 

Driver/interior situation undecided, but I have some choices:

 

IMG_1909.JPG

 

Chassis: ISO hinged at the bracket, inspired by the works of Bob Suzuki :sun_bespectacled:



 


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#24 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 09:17 PM

The blonde in the first photo of post #22 appears to have dark hair.  :)


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 09:39 PM

I see that, Bill. Can't explain why. Trust me, from the front she was a blonde (with dark roots) :laugh2:


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#26 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 10:07 PM

Just a poor bleach job? :sarcastic_hand:


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 30 May 2016 - 09:06 PM

Progress report:

-DUBRO bracket trued, braced, and duffied.

-Tongue is a Cobra/Chicagoland brass/steel sandwich.

-Chunk is .050 and will be trimmed with a taper to form fit between the center rails.

 

IMG_1937.JPG

 


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#28 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 May 2016 - 10:48 PM

I've never seen these motor brackets used on a chassis that was labeled DUBRO. Someone once posted they were made by another Cali company, but DUBRO is a popular name used for them. I forget who made that post, where it was made, or what company it named. It might have been a company associated with Associated. I've always called these brackets a REHCO AML 3000, but I know REHCO had nothing to do with their manufacturing.

 

You must have laid in a good supply of duffies. :good:


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 06:22 AM

I have one pair left after this. When they're gone, that's it, back to cutting tubes :)


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 11:08 AM

Center section - Cobra .050" brass tongue on the bottom:

 

IMG_1949.JPG

 

Doubled with an .032" steel piece up top:

 

IMG_1961.JPG


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#31 Pablo

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 02:50 PM

Don't know if it makes the car handle any better, but since I started checking my rails for straightness it makes a better build.

Everything lays nice and flat on the block like it should. I cut the bad spots out of the ones that fail inspection and use them for "whatever".

 

IMG_1964.JPG

 


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 10:29 AM

Center section complete, twin .063" wire rails:

 

IMG_1969.JPG


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#33 Pablo

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 06:18 PM

Can paint turned out nice. VHT directions said 3 coats 10 minutes apart, followed by a 200 degree bake for 1 hour.

Final motor assembly with new, pre-radiused Mura 36D brushes and new ProSlot Speed FX springs:

 

IMG_1984.JPG

 

Draws 1.4 amps at 3 volts, very smooth, sounds like a good PS 4002B :)

 

IMG_1996.JPG

 

 


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 02 June 2016 - 04:59 PM

Ready for an overnight tumble:

 

IMG_1999.JPG


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#35 Pablo

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Posted 03 June 2016 - 08:14 AM

Nice n shiny:

 

IMG_2009.JPG

 

IMG_2011.JPG

 

Ball bearings n duffies. ISO hinge pivots are brass on brass at the ends using .063 retainers.

 

IMG_2020.JPG

 

Outer section lift is only about 20 thou - that's all she needs:

 

IMG_2022.JPG

 

IMG_2026.JPG

 

Short pieces of .039 wire stiffen and strengthen bracket face area:

 

IMG_2027.JPG


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#36 C. J. Bupgoo

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Posted 03 June 2016 - 01:43 PM

      :on_the_quiet2:          :love:        :sarcastic_hand:


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#37 bluecars

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Posted 03 June 2016 - 03:08 PM

SWEET!!! :good:


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#38 Pablo

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Posted 03 June 2016 - 04:39 PM

Thanks, guys :)  Track test tomorrow.

 

IMG_2034.JPG

 

I don't want to punch holes in the Mercedes body yet, so I mounted a Cucaracha test body of similar WB and width:

 

IMG_2044.JPG

 

 


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#39 Samiam

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Posted 03 June 2016 - 05:55 PM

WOW!

 

Super cool build Pablo. :good:

 

And a unique motor that makes use of one of those homeless Puppies. :victory:


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 04 June 2016 - 10:54 PM

Thanks, Sam, "homeless Puppies" is a good observation. A perfectly good arm is now very snug in it's new vintage home :)

 

Today's track test results:

-Great handler. She prefers to slide rather than tilt - overcook a turn, it simply drifts more. I ran it about 30 laps and never deslotted.

I was impressed by how nice an ISO car, even with fixed body mounts, can handle.

-Power is perfect for the car, and the motor was dead cool after the test (12.5 volts).

-Plenty of brakes; I had my Third Eye brake setting about midway and it was perfect.

-Gearing was fine.

 

This was with a junk practice body and non-independent front wheels. With free fronts and the Mercedes Benz 300 SLR body it can only get better :)

Post-test inspection to follow....


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#41 Pablo

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 04:06 PM

Never let it be said I over-hype my vintage car track tests :)  I found a few flaws in my post-test inspection of the Mercedes.

I'm a newbie at arm dye application, and I see bare spots on the lams. No, the arm isn't contacting the mags. Simply a matter of a newbie paint job.

I'm sure there are tricks to it I have yet to learn. I can touch those bare spots up, but they may re-appear.

 

IMG_2092.JPG

 

Koford drilled flag nut was for testing only. Waiting for a standard brass nut to arrive.

 

IMG_2098.JPG

 

Donuts were sold to me as "Alpha Double Treated" but they cupped faster than a corn tortilla in hot oil after I trued them.

 

IMG_2113.JPG

 

Looking at the huge pores in the rubber, I realize they are a far cry from the rubber on factory wheels.

Crap like that doesn't leave The Wolcott Ranch unless it's in a Hefty trash bag :)

I'll remove them and replace with Alpha Wonder.

 

IMG_2111.JPG

 

Gears performed perfectly and show zero wear.

 

IMG_2094.JPG

 

No other problems found; the car barely even got dirty :good:


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#42 James Wendel

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 05:41 PM

I will be curious to see the effect on the sweet handling when you toss those funky rear tires for something better.


You can't always get what you want...

#43 Pablo

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 06:04 AM

Better, if anything, but not much change, I expect. I am sure wonders will last much longer.

These probably would start chunking in about 10 more laps.

 

Yoda suggested just leaving the La Cucaracha body on it, and we had to practically pry it from his paws :)

 

post-1512-0-68133600-1465162200.jpg


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#44 bluecars

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 03:06 PM

That's what I call a real TOYYODA. Was it made in Japan??? :sarcastic_hand: :sarcastic_hand: :sarcastic_hand: Car really is sweet :good: :good: :good:


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Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#45 C. J. Bupgoo

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 03:27 PM

      :mosking:  :rolleyes:  :acute:   


Michael G. Sutlick
 
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                                                                          Buford T. Tesla, (c. 1927)

#46 Pablo

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Posted 07 June 2016 - 11:42 AM

A very short piece of tubing soldered to the front axle inboard of the knockoff produces a free-wheeling right hand wheel.

The left side will be set screwed and spin the axle in the tube.

 

IMG_2118.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#47 Half Fast

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Posted 07 June 2016 - 02:04 PM

Very nice!

 

I love the appearance of the converging/diverging rails :hi:

 

Cheers


Bill Botjer

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#48 Pablo

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 10:22 AM

Thanks, Bill :) Influenced by the works of Bob Suzuki (endbelldrive) and many others, of course :good:

The car is done and ready for the body.

 

IMG_2136.JPG

 

A couple dots of touch up paint around the gimbal:

 

IMG_2143.JPG

 

Rears:

 

IMG_2150.JPG

 

Independent fronts have about 1/16" side to side slop:

 

IMG_2151.JPG

 

IMG_2156.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#49 Don Weaver

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Posted 08 June 2016 - 12:45 PM

Looking goooood!  The motor paint is fantastic.....

 

Don


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Don Weaver
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it will starve to death...

 

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#50 Pablo

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Posted 10 June 2016 - 08:32 PM

Thanks, Don :)  I think the body paint turned out nice also, but y'all can be the judge.

 

IMG_2205.JPG

 

IMG_2215.JPG

 

Decals are all inside, except for the license plate flag, numbers, and little red dot German inspection sticker:

 

IMG_2210.JPG


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