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Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 05:32 PM

Based on help from fellow Slotbloggers, my best guess (as of today), this body is an early 1950's Cunningham Sports Car.

 

fb6b20c9c6cb00c616c9a9463f8605d7.jpg

 

IMG_1755.JPG

 

IMG_1762.JPG

 

It's thin - about 8 thou - width is 3", wheelbase 3 3/4".

I like it for a build candidate because the sides are straight, it's light and aerodynamic, and plenty of vertical space for the flag.


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#2 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:01 PM

Here is Philippe de Lespinay's assessment of it:

"The Barchetta is possibly a 1955 Cunningham C6R that had an Offy engine, but I don't recall if this is a repop of an old body or something created in the 1980s... in any case not too great of a rendition."

 

So there we have it - not a rare body, which gives me artistic license to do whatever I want with it :)


Paul Wolcott


#3 TSR

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:06 PM

Pablo, go for it!!!

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#4 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:28 PM

Building a custom motor for it as we speak... :dance3:
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#5 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 07:55 PM

So there we have it - not a rare body, which gives me artistic license to do whatever I want with it :)

 
Green metalflake with fluorescent yellow and orange flames? :dance3:
Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#6 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 08:10 PM

Tradeship endbell shortened by .065" and Mabuchi can shortened by .120"

 

IMG_1767.JPG


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#7 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 08:45 PM

From experience, I know the gimbal housing will fall out anyway once I start drilling a hole for the ball bearing.

So this time I got smart and removed it first thing.

 

IMG_1771.JPG


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#8 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 06:37 AM

Tradeship endbell shortened by .065" and Mabuchi can shortened by .120"

 

1) Where on the endbell did you shorten it by .065"? 
 
2) Are you building a full sidewinder chassis? Is that why you shortened both the can and the endbell? Or, are you wanting to build-up a short length arm without using a zillion spacers in a regular length setup?


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#9 Pablo

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 08:39 AM

1. The part that goes inside the can. It's just excess meat and doesn't weaken anything.

Unless it's trimmed, the stack tops of the Puppy Dog arm contact it before the comm can get close to the brush holders.

 

2. Good question - No, inline. I want a high RPM, low torque, small, light motor.

I'll be using C magnets that are just a hair longer than the .400" stack.

As you pointed out, when the arm is in it's happy spot, there would be a mile of unneeded material aft of the magnets.

I could have taken off a lot more than I did, but then it would start to look freakish :)


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#10 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 12:51 PM

Pablo,

 

Given the short wheelbase (3-3/4"), a short motor would be proportionally correct.  Also, with the inline drive configuration, a short motor will allow more room to locate the drop arm hinge farther back.

 

Keeping that drop arm hinge as far back as possible will also help with what looks like a short guide lead.  Think "trailing pickup guide".  You are going to build it with a drop arm, right?  :shok:

 

On the other hand, building it as a Iso-fulcrum would put what functions as the "drop arm hinge" all the way back close to (or at) the rear axle.

 

Possibilities...  :popcorm1:

 

Build on... :dirol:

 

 

 

 


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I build what I likes, and I likes what I build


#11 Pablo

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 01:39 PM

You're a little ahead of me, Steve :laugh2:

 

Pete L. thinks it's a Mercedes-Benz:

 

Mercedes-Benz.jpg

 

Whatever it is, it's got a brand new rare vintage SKF ball bearing silver soldered to the gimbal gizmo:

 

IMG_1801.JPG

 

IMG_1818.JPG


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 05:58 PM

Professor Motor post protectors and 36D brush holders installed, plus the usual routine:

-can and endbell holes drilled for button screws

-brush holders custom sized (shortened), trued with diamond tool, and soldered to pent roof terminals

-wire attachment tabs tinned

-motor attachment holes tapped 2-56; screws custom sized and polished

-fresh coat of red arm dye

 

IMG_1827.JPG

 


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#13 SlotStox#53

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 06:39 PM

It's Pablo custom motor time :D :good:

Build on Sir .

#14 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:45 PM

TN_Le_Mans-1955-06-12-022.jpg​Cunningham C6-R  (1955 LeMans) per racingsportscars.com.    The (#2) one with a grin is the C5-R v-8 - '53 LeMans.  Still not certain what the shell is......


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#15 John Streisguth

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:50 PM

I think Pete's on the right track.  It just did';t look likes the Cunninghams


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"Whatever..."

#16 Pablo

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 11:02 AM

Since the BB gimbal isn't secured yet, I used a dummy can to align and secure the brush holders:

 

IMG_1838.JPG

 

Then soldered the gimbal home perfectly true. I used 60/40 to prevent melting the silver solder holding the BB.

 

IMG_1842.JPG


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#17 Pablo

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 01:11 PM

Pro Slot Speed FX "C" magnets in a vintage D can make a hole of about .590 so I cut some steel shims.

A 13mm socket and a hose clamp makes a perfect curve. This time I got smart and secured 'em before clamping.

Did 2 at a time with tape:

 

IMG_1858.JPG


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 10:12 AM

Putting C mags in a D can is tricky - the usual approach is flattening, or removing, the louvers on the can,

then shimming top, bottom, and sides. This time I tried something different.

 

Can ID is .610"; magnet height is about .545", a difference of .065", /2 = .033".

The louvers extend about .050" vertically and I wanted to partially close them to make it .033".

I placed a "C" can straightener inside with the can louvers down, held a big screwdriver on top of the tool inside the cooling hole, and "Bap!"

 

IMG_1855.JPG

 

The first tap took them down to .042", the second tap got it about .035".

Then I tinned a piece of .032" wire and made a clip for the other end that fits between the mags and can.

 

IMG_1851.JPG

 

In the end, I decided to shorten the can all the way. "in for a penny, in for a pound" :)

Inserted mags with a .535" Goat Boy slug slathered in ATF and went crazy with the Krazy Glue.

Then honed them to .538" giving me a total airgap of .023".

 

Motor is done and it sounds like just what the doctor ordered - good smooth revs - not a lot of torque.

Can will be painted later with VHT Burnt Copper.

 

IMG_1877.JPG

 

IMG_1882.JPG

 

 


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 12:39 PM

Did some research and found Pete L. to be correct :good:

It's definitely a Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR which won the 1955 World Sportscar Championship.

 

Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR race car.jpg

 

"The greatest sports racing car ever built — really an unbelievable machine."

Stirling Moss
Hall of Fame Formula One driver and former Mercedes-Benz team 300 SLR race driver

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#20 Pablo

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 01:54 PM

Here's an ISO Mercedes I finished in 2012, painted by Jairus:

 

http://slotblog.net/...nline-by-pablo/


Paul Wolcott


#21 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 May 2016 - 02:31 PM

I forgot about this car. Is it one of Tom Scott's cars?


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#22 Pablo

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 10:10 AM

Correct, Bill.

 

I found a good black and white movie to watch as inspiration for this build -

convicted murderer breaks out of jail, steals a Jaguar, kidnaps a willing blonde, and heads for a sports car race to Mexico.

Wheeeeeeeeeee !! :D

The Jag has similar lines to the Mercedes. Notice how the driver needs a helmet, but the kidnapped blonde doesn't :laugh2:

 

IMG_1914.JPG

 

Thinking about making this car an ISO, but not sure yet.

 

IMG_1922.JPG

 

IMG_1925.JPG

 

 


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 07:35 PM

Parts gathering and planning complete. "Easier to deviate from a known plan than to have no plan" :)

 

IMG_1927.JPG

 

WB 3 3/4" GL 5/16" Width: 3"
Clearance: .032" level
Front wheels: Professor Motor Russkit replica setscrew with EJ's Hobbies #15 tires, 13/16" OD

Rear wheels: Professor Motor Russkit replica setscrew with treated black donuts, 13/16" OD

1/8" axles front and rear

Jet Flag

DUBRO bracket, duffies with Pro Slot ball bearings

Champion steel axle spacers
Crown: 28T Cox
Pinion: 7T Sonic solder-on straight steel
Motor: stock Pro Slot 4002B armature, shortened Mabuchi can with SKF ball bearing, Tradeship endbell,

Professor Motor 36D brush holders, Gold Dust brushes, Speed FX springs and Speed FX "C" magnets.

 

Driver/interior situation undecided, but I have some choices:

 

IMG_1909.JPG

 

Chassis: ISO hinged at the bracket, inspired by the works of Bob Suzuki :sun_bespectacled:



 


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#24 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 09:17 PM

The blonde in the first photo of post #22 appears to have dark hair.  :)


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#25 Pablo

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Posted 29 May 2016 - 09:39 PM

I see that, Bill. Can't explain why. Trust me, from the front she was a blonde (with dark roots) :laugh2:


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