17 replies to this topic

[95PGTTech]

Two attempts at ordering a 3 ohm Parma Turbo Qualifier controller online with two fails, and then someone chimed in to support my local track, so I asked them to special order. He told me to build my own instead.

His reasoning was that instead of spending $83.99 on the new controller, just pick up the 3 ohm wet wound resistor (on hand) and the aluminum heatsinks and cut out the top of my controller for less than $30.

But the Qualifier also has the silver contacts which I cannot find available from Parma separately - it probably makes no difference, but I'm trying to get every little bit I can here. I then began thinking about doing the click relay to it as well.

So before I go through the effort, is there a commercially-available alligator clip resistor controller on the market that is better than the Parma Turbo Qualifier?

[Bill from NH]

Chris, the silver contacts may be a Slick 7 item. It doesn't look like their website has been updated in awhile, but your local track should be able to get them. A how-to article on wiring in a controller click can be found Here

Chris, are the Professor Motor controllers legal for what you need? If not, then I think the Parma Turbo is your best bet.

[Ron Hershman]

The Parma silver contacts are nothing but the regular contacts that are silver plated. More of a gimmick than anything else.

The wet wound resistor is the way to go if you have to run a stock Parma type resistor. The advantage is that the wet wound resistor is epoxy-coated and this keeps the bands from moving around when the resistor gets hot.

You will not see any difference in performance in using silver contacts in your stock controller, or any other controller for that matter. Keep your stock ones cleaned and adjusted right and your controller will be fine.

The only thing I would suggest adding to your Parma controller is micro-switches for full power and brakes. This will make an improvement.

[slotbaker]

The only thing I would suggest adding to your Parma controller is micro-switches for full power and brakes. This will make an improvement.

I've heard this said before. Can you please point to a 'how to' or provide some clues on doing this mod?

[Ron Hershman]

You asked for it... This are pics from a late Gorski-modified Parma "economy" controller that was based on the original Russkit controller/tooling and a few years before Parma tooled up the Turbo controller.

The Parma Turbo controller frame does have the mounting holes "punched" in the frame for micro switches. You will have to get a micro switch like the one in the pics and then line up the holes.

In this pic we see the added brass that the micros are attached to. Note the "arms" coming off the microswitch that appear to be attached to the trigger. Not actually attached, but free and when the trigger is full on, the button on the switched is pressed and opening the switch. When not full on, the button is depressed and closing the switch. Same goes for the brake micro.



In this pic we see the back side and a better view of the micros mounted.



In this pic you can see the red button on the full power micro is up and closed while the brake micro white button is pressed and opening the brake switch. The trigger is in the brake/no power position.



In this pic you can see the trigger in the wide open position and the red button is depressed on the power micro opening the switch. The brake micro is now closed.

[slotbaker]

Thanks Ron,

I assume the full current does not go through the full power micro. Is there a relay as well?

[Ron Hershman]

Yes, I think the full current does go through the micro and there is no relay.

[GT40]

I remember putting microswitches in my Parma controller long, long ago...they did seem to make a difference with high-current heavier wind armatures - Group 20 and hotter...

The brake and full throttle contacts in the Turbo accomplish the same thing as the microswitches, and more simply.

If I had one of the non-Turbo resistor controllers, I would put in a relay near the clips, rather than a microswitch in the handle, if I was really concerned about current at full throttle.

The brake micro is questionable. Most people want variable brakes anyway, and putting in a brake pot will likely negate any lower resistance from a brake micro.

Overall, I think finding a Turbo would be a better way to go, if you are going to stay with a resistor controller.

Pacific Coast Hobbies or NCP Hobbies should be able to fix you up, if your local track owner doesn't want to be cooperative in getting you what you want or need.

[JerseyJohn]

You asked for it... This are pics from a late Gorski-modified Parma "economy" controller that was based on the original Russkit controller/tooling and a few years before Parma tooled up the Turbo controller.

The Parma Turbo controller frame does have the mounting holes "punched" in the frame for micro switches. You will have to get a micro switch like the one in the pics and then line up the holes.

In this pic we see the added brass that the micros are attached to. Note the "arms" coming off the microswitch that appear to be attached to the trigger. Not actually attached, but free and when the trigger is full on, the button on the switched is pressed and opening the switch. When not full on, the button is depressed and closing the switch. Same goes for the brake micro.



In this pic we see the back side and a better view of the micros mounted.



In this pic you can see the red button on the full power micro is up and closed while the brake micro white button is pressed and opening the brake switch. The trigger is in the brake/no power position.



In this pic you can see the trigger in the wide open position and the red button is depressed on the power micro opening the switch. The brake micro is now closed.

Ron , thanks for the walk down memeory lane.

[team burrito]

I would bypass the micro switches & stick with the stock micro contacts & add a full power relay to your controller. I don't have the plans for wiring the relay, but it's on the internet somewhere. The double-barrel wet-wound resistor would be better for heat dissipation.

[Hworth08]

A relay is a nice addition for a standard Turbo. There is just a forth wire required that is activated by the full-open contact button already on the Turbo. The relay just allows the current a direct route to the track IF that's the route the current decides to take. If the relay burns out the current just goes through the controller as in a stock Turbo.

The relay will allow a Turbo to be used with G-12 motors without too much heat. At the G-12 level a full electronic is going to be a better choice. Up to a Super16C motor a standard Turbo will not limit current flow.

A person using a Turbo in the advanced classes does have to not tire of being asked why they don't buy a decent controller!

[95PGTTech]

Does the Turbo Qualifier have a full power relay (WOT relay)?

Parma's website does not say it does.
http://www.shopatron...083.11574.0.0.0

But other sites that offer different product descriptions allude to something like one:
http://item.express....cmdZExpressItem

[slotbaker]

Does the Turbo Qualifier have a full power relay (WOT relay)?

Parma's website does not say it does.

"Our top of the line controller features an anodized turbo frame, double barrel wet wound epoxy coated resistor with aluminum heat sink and silver plated wiper arm/contact pads to ensure full brake and full power. Smoked handle with nylon trigger and performance 14 gauge silicone wire, includes boots and clips. Use for all 16D, Group 7, Group 12, Group 27 class racing."
Can't see anything in their description about a relay.

[Hworth08]

Chris,

For the racing you're doing now this is all the controller you need or can use:

http://www.e-slotcar.com/products/268

Parma is a little "excited" about the qualifier controller handling a Group 7 motor. After 50 laps the aluminun heatsink might be dripping on your hand.

[Hworth08]

This is what used to serve the purpose of a relay for a Turbo controller:

http://www.e-slotcar.com/products/4974

Very simple and effective. There is a tiny amount of adjustment caused by manufacturing tolerances so a person has to be sure the contacts are "contacting" during WOT. These parts are included on a "standard" $45 Turbo controller and act as an external relay.

This is a very simple controller. Very capable of handling a motor of up to 7 or 8 amps of current draw or a Super 16 C motor.

A person can NOT adjust the resistance (ohms) while standing at the track or lower the braking. That generally requires an electronic controller. And all the associated problems.

[95PGTTech]

This is what used to serve the purpose of a relay for a Turbo controller:

http://www.e-slotcar.com/products/4974

Very simple and effective. There is a tiny amount of adjustment caused by manufacturing tolerances so a person has to be sure the contacts are "contacting" during WOT. These parts are included on a "standard" $45 Turbo controller and act as an external relay.

This is a very simple controller. Very capable of handling a motor of up to 7 or 8 amps of current draw or a Super 16 C motor.

A person can NOT adjust the resistance (ohms) while standing at the track or lower the braking. That generally requires an electronic controller. And all the associated problems.

I've been reading up a lot on this full power relay but I see that inside my controller after retrofitting it with a 3OHM wet wound resistor and aluminum heatsink that there is a full power and full brake contact already there. Should I still do the full-power relay, and/or a full-brake relay?

It is my understanding that the current will follow the path of least resistance so even if the trigger is on the last wiper on the resistor if I meet the full power contact it should go through the full-power contact, correct? And vice versa if I am on the first wiper but touching the full-brake contact?



Then again, looking at it, if I were to hit the full-power contact the white wire is still pinched by the resistor a few inches away...so is it possible some current is still being taken by the resistor? If I were to do the full-power relay modification the white wire is just being used as the trigger wire, correct? So I would want to put the relay as close to the alligator clips as possible?

Also, I am a very tall person, so the stock Parma Turbo controller is really stretched to the limit as I stand to race, I was going to buy the contact set someone linked and some replacement wire to make my own leads...does anyone suggest stepping up to a professional audio grade wire or a larger gauge wire while I am at it?

[team burrito]

The full power contact is your contact for the relay. You could add a switch to kill the relay for practice, but I love that "click-click" sound it makes. BTW: what classes are you racing with this controller? A stock resistor may be good up to a Super 16D without getting too hot. As for hook-up wire, I use 18 ga wire for my local R/C store. Typically, I like my wires to be 4 ft long & I'm only 5'-7". Just be sure to use copper clips when replacing those wires.

[95PGTTech]

The full power contact is your contact for the relay. You could add a switch to kill the relay for practice, but I love that "click-click" sound it makes. BTW: what classes are you racing with this controller? A stock resistor may be good up to a Super 16D without getting too hot. As for hook-up wire, I use 18 ga wire for my local R/C store. Typically, I like my wires to be 4 ft long & I'm only 5'-7". Just be sure to use copper clips when replacing those wires.

Deathstar only. As soon as I move up to Nascar B, it's the same exact rules except on high power, I can literally use the car as it sits now and make no other changes to it except swap the body to a Nascar-appearing one. And probably a taller gear to compensate for the higher power. Nascar B also allows some electronic controllers.

So even though the controller currently has a full power contact, there is some point to the relay modification? How about the brake one? I'll be real interested to use my multimeter on the controller at WOT now and see what I get before and after the relay modification, that should pretty clearly tell me if I wasted my time or not.