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Applying decals inside clear bodies


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 09:04 AM

The question "how do I apply decals to the inside of a body" comes up frequently.

 

It used to be easy - just give the link to Tom Andersen's website which contained detailed instructions. But that website is no longer, so instead of having to re-type this every week, here is a tutorial.

 

There are other methods that I'm sure work fine also, but here is mine. This is for acrylic paints only.

 

Materials needed:
- Glazing medium, like Deco Art Americana

- Paintbrush
- Paper towel

 

product_thumb_glazing_medium.jpg

 

One new trick I learned is, decals don't need to soak in a tub of water. If they stay there too long, they float off the backing.  :dash2:

Instead of soaking them, dip them for a few seconds, remove and place on a piece of paper. It will be ready when you are.

 

When the decal is ready to slide off the backing, first brush a light film of the glaze slightly larger than the decal where you plan to place it. Then immediately place the decal against the film and remove the backing.

 

Position it how you want it; you have enough time to do it but if you wait too long it will start to stick. Do as many decals at the same time as you feel comfortable with.

 

Do not worry if some of the liquid runs, it won't affect your paint job. You can dab at runs with a paper towel and wick it up.

 

Also, you can also minimize runs by changing the angle of gravity periodically before it dries.

 

Allow to dry fully, a couple hours or so. Blow drying will accelerate the process but be careful not to overheat anything.

The Glaze is water-soluble so the brush cleans up easily.

 

Apply another coat. In the words of Tom Andersen "You don't want paint seeping under them." I usually use three coats.

Once your final coat is fully dry, you can begin painting. Make your first coat extremely light to seal the edges well.
 

IMG_1010.JPG


  • Tim Neja, Marty N and Rich Joslin like this

Paul Wolcott





#2 Marty N

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 09:41 AM

Faux glaze - Google and Bing give me nothing useful. Have a supplier or name to find this material?


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#3 JerseyJohn

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 10:44 AM

Mod Podge.


 

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#4 Pablo

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 02:32 PM

I see what you mean, Martin. It used to be called Faux Glaze, now it's called Glazing medium.

Try Googling that and it will work. Here is the stuff I use:

 

http://www.amazon.co... glazing medium


Paul Wolcott


#5 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 03:43 PM

Amazon will also sell you glazing medium in quart cans, branded differently.


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#6 aquavelvis

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 03:48 PM

I don't have any experience with acrylic paints. How good are they at withstanding slot racing abuse in lexan bodies? Is there a manufacturer(s)/supplier(s) of such acrylic paints you can recommend?

 

Thanks


Scott Taylor

#7 Pablo

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 04:42 PM

Parma, Createx, Model Master, Testors, Tamiya, Ralph Thorne Racing


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#8 Rich Joslin

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Posted 09 January 2020 - 06:54 PM

Thanks Pablo,

I used this method in a trial run and it worked great even using dry transfer decals and stickers on the inside of the body not water slide decals. I used Modge Podge. I did not do a good job of cleaning up the excess from around the sticker. Even though the Modge Podge dries clear I was concern the rough nature of the dried product would impact the paint. It did not. The paint looks shiny and smooth like normal. I look forward to trying the method again real soon.



#9 Pablo

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Posted 09 January 2020 - 08:46 PM

:) 


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#10 Phil Smith

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 05:00 PM

I  made  a small goof up painting an RC car body years ago and I took a Q-tip dipped in lacquer thinner to remove it. It got the paint off, but it also fogged or hazed the lexan. I thought I had ruined the body, but I finished it up anyway. Much to my surprise you couldn't see the hazed spot. At all.

 

So it seems the glossy exterior of the body is what makes the paint glossy. I think Jairus mentioned in one of his paint threads that he had painted the flat black roof of a dune buggy on the outside of the body because of this phenomenon.


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#11 Rotorranch

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 05:19 PM

Remember, when painting a clear body, as opposed to a hard body, (or real car), you're working FROM CLEAR COAT BACK DOWN TO BASE COAT!

 

Totally opposite us opposite of normal painting. Unless you REALLY screw something up it's still going to be shiny on the outside.

 

Rotor


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#12 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 07:00 PM

Most paints marketed for clear bodies, dry flat whether they are acrylics or solvent-based. When used on hard bodies, they require a clear gloss final coat. The exception is Testor enamels, but those have never been marketed for clear bodies.


Bill Fernald
 
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