15 replies to this topic

[Robert BG]

Hi,one thing I really dont have the budget for is a proper power supply.So I am looking for alternatives to use.

The one thought that comes to mind is I have several small high amperage  AGM batteries that are for use in small enclosures,portable things and such.They actually dont weigh that much more than a power supply and I can use a simple small charger I have to keep it topped up.Is there any reason why I cant use a regulator that is up to the task to use this to break in my motors?

I've looked around and there are plenty of designs on the net I can use that I have most of the electronic parts for or I can buy one cheap enough too.

 

Is there any reason you guys can think of why not to do it?Other than the life of the battery?I've done some rough calculations and getting the run time wont be a problem.The only issue would be doing several(high amp) motors in a row for long break in times.

 

Thanks

[JerseyJohn]

Hi,one thing I really dont have the budget for is a proper power supply.So I am looking for alternatives to use.

The one thought that comes to mind is I have several small high amperage  AGM batteries that are for use in small enclosures,portable things and such.They actually dont weigh that much more than a power supply and I can use a simple small charger I have to keep it topped up.Is there any reason why I cant use a regulator that is up to the task to use this to break in my motors?

I've looked around and there are plenty of designs on the net I can use that I have most of the electronic parts for or I can buy one cheap enough too.

 

Is there any reason you guys can think of why not to do it?Other than the life of the battery?I've done some rough calculations and getting the run time wont be a problem.The only issue would be doing several(high amp) motors in a row for long break in times.

 

Thanks

Whats your budget

[PCH Parts Express]

Hi,one thing I really dont have the budget for is a proper power supply.So I am looking for alternatives to use.

The one thought that comes to mind is I have several small high amperage  AGM batteries that are for use in small enclosures,portable things and such.They actually dont weigh that much more than a power supply and I can use a simple small charger I have to keep it topped up.Is there any reason why I cant use a regulator that is up to the task to use this to break in my motors?

I've looked around and there are plenty of designs on the net I can use that I have most of the electronic parts for or I can buy one cheap enough too.

 

Is there any reason you guys can think of why not to do it?Other than the life of the battery?I've done some rough calculations and getting the run time wont be a problem.The only issue would be doing several(high amp) motors in a row for long break in times.

 

Thanks

 

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Back in days the great ones had no power supply to break-in motors. Once you had your car completed you simply would start off making very slow laps. With not much time past you would gradually drive the car a bit faster. Than a bit faster than that. An so on. This technique broke in the brushes.  If it was good enough for Lou Del Rosario then it is good enough for you.  

 

 

[Samiam]

This will do everything you will need to do from breaking in motors to running tire or comm lathes.

http://www.aliexpres...e8-ad0575d1bc0f

 

Better grab it before Trump puts a 35% tariff on it.

 

OK, for some reason it won't go to the item. Just search Gophert adjustable power supply CPS-1610 once you get there. Find the best deal and you are good to go.

[slotcarone]

Robert--what kind of motors are you working on? If you are just using FK style motors you can use just about any small wall plug in power supply that shows 5 or 6 volt DC output. These motors usually draw .5 amps and these small chargers will work fine for break in. Even an old cell phone charger will work.

[Mark Crowley]

I ordered one of the Gophert 16v 10 amp units that Samiam mentioned above, from Aliexpress and it was $54.55 when ordering with their mobile app.  You will need to supply your own 110v computer power supply cable for US use.  Perhaps the supplied cable will work in Bulgaria?

I also built my own variable power supply from a old computer power supply with buck converter but I probably spent $30 on knobs, resistors, pots, led, switches and it only provides 1-12 volts at 8 amps.  I also built a computer power supply that had fixed 3.3v, 5v and 12v via banana plugs that I seldom use.

Lots of options available

Mrk

http://www.aliexpres...b1-a963970da521

 

Link may only take you to the home page so you can search for "16v10a" to get numerous sellers.

[Frankie Schaffier]

I bought one of these off Ebay for $15, cut off the connect and soldered on two clips. Use it to run my tire machine and break in motors at the track. Weights under one pound (15 oz). 5 long , 2 ½ wide, 1 ½ thick. Again, it cost $15 Including shipping. Been using it for a few weeks now, no problems. Of course it isn't adjustable like my Koford, but it's much lighter to travel with and does what I need at the track.

[Samiam]

That looks like the way to go for a travel supply. If you're looking for a bench supply built by Americans I found this:

http://www.ebay.com/...pXKODg#shpCntId

 

Big and heavy. 40 lbs. Made in U.S.A.  But the shipping calculator must be off kilter. $567?

[PCH Parts Express]

This is only 19.95 delivered. It has no meter.

 

eBay item number:

281658613382

[Bill from NH]

Big and heavy. 40 lbs. Made in U.S.A.  But the shipping calculator must be off kilter. $567?

 

Sam, you got a deal. Freight to my location would be $588.86.  FEDEX overnight would be cheaper.

[Ramcatlarry]

Something members of the homeset 1/32 club that I race with have done:

 

Pick up a sealed 6 volt DC battery from the electronics surplus store for under $10.  It can be charged with standard voltage wall warts. It can be used for a test block using an old 1/32 slot car base and some copper tape.  Many use one for either sanding tires or cleaning tires with a spongy surface.  These usually come in exit lights.

 

Check out: American Science and Surplus mail order.  I got two stores in the metro area to browse for LEDs and switches and neat things.

[Robert BG]

Thanks for all the options so far.

 

I'll be using it for FK's on up to group 27's and possibly a open but mainly 27 Lights and 15-A's along with whatever smaller motors they run in a series i find.But for now I'm concentrating on getting some wing cars rolling.

I will probably try my hand at retro building while I'm in Bulgaria to keep busy.

 

The Gophert unit isnt too bad and a nice possibility.

As far as building one goes I do have several LCD volt meters laying around and numerous buck converters and electronic parts from playing with aurduino's etc.So scrounging up most of what I'd need is doable.

 

I think I'm going to give the batteries I have a shot,We use them as replacement's for our jump box's and while I forget the specs 2 of the big ones are enough to start a D-8 Dozer thats pretty dead.The small ones will start just about any car and are 14 ah,about the footprint of a 1/24 car,maybe 5-6 inches high and about 5-6 lbs.

While I'm thinking about it I am about to upgrade my old defalco controller.So I might be able to use the old board and a wiper arm to regulate the voltage with a little luck.

 

If I cant get it done with parts on hand though I'll probably order the Gophert unit and be done with it.

 

Samiam I'm not trying to turn this political but if the rest of the world can do it why shouldnt we?I think you'd be shocked at what I pay on imported goods in Bulgaria when you compare it to the average wage.Although I support it and while they are in the EU they give EU made goods one rate and will further discount goods made in BG.Surprisingly enough I can find more goods made in Bulgaria for my place there than I can here looking for stuff made in the USA and Bulgaria is only about the size of Tennessee .

 

 

[Nate Graham]

sounds like you have it under control, but I would like to suggest what , for you, should be a zero dollar option. since you have meters and buck converters  "laying around", I bet you have access to a no-longer-used desktop computer. pull the supply out. it is an ATC variant. pull and combine the wires for:

1. ground.

2. 3 volt,

3. 5 volt, and

4. 12 volts.

numerous tutorials are available on line if needed but it sound s like you have the knowledge and skills.  combine and wire the multiple  leads for each voltage to banana plugs or your connector of choice and you will have: 3 volts for motor break-in, 5 volts for tire truer, and 12 volts for a bunch of things - I have LED lights for superb working conditions - but you can use your down converters and voltmeters if you need a specific voltage - this is , after all, what the wright way does. It is way more power than needed for any slot car application. 

 

Good luck,

NAte G KD3OH

[PCH Parts Express]

A nice used Slick 7 power supply or some other clean used unit is a good option for some. 

[Robert BG]

Nate,I wouldnt say I have the knowledge but I manage to fumble through electronics projects without letting too much of the magic smoke escape

I decided to go with the one battery i have because it fits nicely in a car's slot in my box and I plan on making a filler panel for the knob and meter.It should work well I think and I can hide the little charger I have and make a removable plug in the back with some old pc parts and a power cord.When I go to set up in the pits I'll simply pull out my cord and plug it in and I'll be good to go,if its super full etc I can put it in a spot without power if need be too.

[Nate Graham]

Sure. and this makes a versatile system for a number of occasions. I do something similar when my wife goes to dog shows. I can set up on her dog grooming table after she brushes the Terv and build slot cars - soldering from a 3 or 4s LiPo or a 12v SLA  or car patch cord, running tire truer from a DROK and breaking in motors all day with no power outlet. opens up a lot of possibilities. Enjoy.