87 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I worked on this build during my recent “health scare” and it really helped me. The worrying was constantly on my mind like a giant weight………EXCEPT when working on the project. It was hard for me to get started each session but once working, the wonderful smell of soldering smoke and acid fumes was great! 

 

So what IS this project? Since this is a “therapy build” meant to be fun, I decided not to build a “clone” or “tribute” car. I got inspiration from the period magazines and newsletters and then chose what I like the best for the build.

 

For the chassis, I’ve always liked this Mike Steube chassis from an early 1968 CMRA race:

 

 

 

Here is the race report “COWAN TAKE LEAD IN C.M.R.A. POINTS”:

 

 

 

Now for the motor. I’m going with a 1968 Mabuchi can like Mike’s car but for fun, I’m going to pump the motor up with some cool stuff. The only part of the original motor I'll be using is the can….minus the ball bearing.

 

Here are the “hop-up” parts I’ll be using:

 

 

The end bell will be a Dynamic packaged Mura 1st generation “unmeltable” but with a really cool modification. Check out the Mini-Wheels Bullet Proof kit at the lower right in the picture below:

 

 

 

Here are the instructions for the bullet proofing kit:

 

 

 

 

 

Rather than build the fixture outlined in the top of the instruction sheet, I found I could use my Rick’s Jig instead:

 

 

Here's the jig used in a different setup to solder on the spring post protector:

 

 

After many hours work, the stock endbell on the right and the modified on the left:

 

 

 

 

Next up I work on my can.........so to speak. 

[Jairus]

Nice work Rick, glad to see you back.

[havlicek]

Beee-you-tee-ful!  No one does it better.

 

-john

[Pablo]

[Howie Ursaner]

Go Rick, Another work of art tribute car is born. ! Thank You for what you create. 

[dc-65x]

Thanks for the support.

 

I forgot to post this picture of the Mini-Wheels Bullet Proofing kit parts and the assembled bits:

 

 

Here are the parts I used for the motor can. The 1968 Mabuchi motor, Mura end bell bearing to replace the funky Mabuchi ball bearing, Dynamic packaged Mura Semi-Can magnet shim, Versitec magnets and Certus top and bottom magnet shims to center the magnets:

 

 

It takes some fiddling to get the magnets, semi-can and top and bottom shims all fit into the can. Once that was done I marked everything so I could take it back apart and epoxy the magnets to the semi-can with JB Weld and re-assemble.

 

After the epoxy cured the top and bottom shims were removed to live another day and the magnets were honed to .530":

 

 

After honing the semi-can shim with epoxied magnets can be slid out of the can for cleaning and the can painted. The ball bearing was also replaced with an end bell bearing:

 

 

A comparison with the stock can and magnets:

 

 

The heart of the beast, a new old stock Thorp single 27 armature. This is an early version with thick laminations and fiber end plates:

 

 

The finished motor:

 

 

 

 

Next, the chassis..............

[NY Nick]

Nice Build and Pictures.

Thanks for posting your Project.

[Pablo]

The textured black paint just never gets old for me. Brings back memories of the old cameras of the day

[dc-65x]

Thanks Nick 

 

I like black wrinkle too Pablo. I'm not sure if the "Pros" were using it in '68 but I watched my brother paint the dashboard of his MGA black wrinkle in 1964 so I know it was around........and probably way before then.

 

I've also used some dark green wrinkle finish that looks pretty cool too:

 

[dc-65x]

I started the chassis build with the motor bracket. I got a pair of "duffies" (bearing housings) made by our much missed friend Michael "Duffy" Heinrich. I also used a very short length of 1/4" brass tube as a bushing to center the end bell bearing:

 

 

Here's the setup with a jig motor made up with the race end bell and a scrap '68 Mabuchi can. The end bell is wrapped in tape to keep the acid flux off:

 

 

I made up as many rails and things as possible before starting the soldering process:

 

 

On this build I finished the rails to the proper length before I solder them on. That way I can finish each rail end with a nice chamfer. It takes much longer than leaving the rails oversize, soldering them all on and then cutting them all in place at the same time.

 

But, I can run my hand over the top of the chassis and it's completely smooth......no sharp edges or burrs:

 

 

Who are you calling ANAL!      I guess that would be me. 

 

Anyway, here the rails are ready to go:

 

 

Here the 3 main rails per side are installed. The rail set on the left is shown "as soldered". The rail set on the right have had the solder on top (from the soldering iron tip moving back and forth) sanded off. This exposes the top of the rails and the shiny brass:

 

 

Outer rail #4 installed at the rear...............

 

 

..............and at the front with some .030" wire reinforcements aligned in place with my Rick's Jig:

 

 

Here's the front end cleaned up:

 

 

The center section waiting for a drop arm:

 

 

 

The drop arm is next.................

 

[Don Weaver]

Don't you just hate drop arms?  The Pros would toss the chassis but keep the drop arms because they were such a pain!

 

Don

[tonyp]

Yup!

[Bill from NH]

This Steube chassis uses a brass strip drop arm. Those are easier to build than the all brass rod drop arms. Rick, I like the four spaced main rails this chassis has. 

[Pablo]

I like the gizmo that aligns the bushing housing and strengthens the bracket face.

You better believe I'll be copying that soon  

[SlotStox#53]

Beautiful chassis Rick That Mini Wheels bullet proofing kit is a really sweet looking endbell addition, no worries with heat now

[dc-65x]

The ubiquitous drop arm. 

I prefer to solder in a single piece of tube instead of 3 separate pieces for the drop arm pivot. I needed to cut out the center piece and square up the ends of the remaining pivot tubes. A neat little back-counterbore gizmo finishes up the job:

 

 

All the pieces-parts ready for soldering, but what I hate doing is trying to eyeball align the down stop and hold it steady while trying to solder it in place. This time I simply cut a little groove with my mill for it to sit in. The groove virtually disappears when the down stop is soldered in place:

 

 

I left the two guide tube holders extra long to help them align with each other and tacked them together. Then cut them to length and soldered everything up. Here's the buffed up drop arm:

 

 

Instead of a simple rod going accross the chassis for a drop arm up-stop (which stiffens the flex of the chassis) it looks like Mike used an L-shaped stop hanging down from the axle tube. I used a U-shape as it was easier for me to align and install:

 

 

Time for the "floating pans"....................

[Pablo]

The bar just keeps getting higher

[welslotcar]

Fabergé would be impressed.

[dc-65x]

About polishing.

 

My goal with polishing is to even out the finish on the entire chassis and then let it take on a natural patina over time. Of course the chassis must be wiped down after running to remove any oil, tire goo and most importantly, fingerprints from "piss fingers". This allows the chassis to patina evenly.

 

Here's a chassis I built "Pre-Slotblog"................many moons ago...........maybe 15 years or more? It started out polished as bright as a new penny (including those long brass axle spacers). This car sat in an acrylic display case in a low humidity, non-smoking environment:

 

 

Another thing about a chassis that's been evenly polished, the patina can be removed and the original shine can be brought back easily if desired.

 

Now where's that brass sheet for the pans?

[dc-65x]

Here's how Mike set up his floppy pans:

 

 

I'm going to use 1/16" piano wire for the L-shaped hinge with pin tube soldered on top for the body mount and pan "up-stops". I made these pieces up first in my Rick's Jig and I left them extra long to help with alignment and to have an area to drag any extra solder onto. Hopefully that will help make a nice even solder joint:

 

 

Again, the jig aligns everything nicely. You might notice that the front of the pans is quite far back from the front axle.     That placement was dictated by the size and shape of the front wheel opening in the body I'll be using.

 

 

If you can guess what period "Korrect" body I'll be using.........."You win a cookie"

 

 

Here's the finished chassis:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time to assemble the roller and take it for a test drive

[tonyp]

Rick Phil Rubin's bat pan was the last east coast chassis design before sidewinders hit on east coast. It was this design Jerry Brady took with him to LA sure to beat the west coasters only to arrive and find out that the sidewinders arrived the same week.

Might make a good companion to your west coast chassis.

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[tonyp]

Excellent job on Mike's car as usual....

[Samiam]

 

 

If you can guess what period "Korrect" body I'll be using.........."You win a cookie"

 

McLaren Mk?

[Half Fast]

My Guess:

 

Lotus 40

 

Cheers

[dc-65x]

Thanks Tony. Phil's car is a real BAT pan design....very cool!

 

Sorry, no cookie for the Lotus 40 or McLaren guess.