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Need help repairing rare 24 volt Strombecker


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#1 Jim Rektorski

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 05:34 PM

I am attempting to locate a replacement motor or armature for this vintage arcade game called Speedway by Southland Engineering.

 

According to the directions it has a DC-62B motor in a commercial Strombecker car built for this game. I have noticed that the wire on the arm is broken and the car does not operate at the correct speed... much slower than the other car on the track. This has a five-pole arm.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Jim






#2 Cheater

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 05:42 PM

Hi Jim,
 
I'm pretty sure this Speedway arcage game has been mentioned here before, but for those members who have never seen it, here's a video and a link with more info.
 

 
1963 Southland Engineering Speedway game

 

Is this the car and motor you have?

 

ses.jpg

 

(This car, shown at the link above, seems to have a modern Cox crown gear.)

 

 


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Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#3 Jim Rektorski

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 05:59 PM

Yes, I tried attaching a pic but the file is too large.

 

Jim



#4 Samiam

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 06:11 PM

Ask John Havlicek to re-wind both arms. He may have a hard time resisting doing a #27 double on them though :bomb: .


Sam Levitch
 
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#5 Cheater

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 06:16 PM

Yes, I tried attaching a pic but the file is too large.


That shouldn't be possible, as the forum software resizes them when they're too big.

Email your pic(s) to me at greg@slotblog.net.


Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#6 Jim Rektorski

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 10:49 PM

jim1.jpg

 

jim2.jpg

 

(I've replaced Jim's one pic with the two pics he sent me last night, which I have tweaked a little.)


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#7 boxerdog

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 10:52 PM

I'd guess there are quite a few RP-66 Revell/Pittmans out there; either complete motors or arms would be perfect.


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#8 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 11:39 PM

The "DC-60" series (60, 61, 62) motors were all five-pole, 12 volt DC motors with the brushes in that 90 deg to N/S magnet as the DC-195 three-pole motors. The 195 wire might be thicker or a 'hot' wind compared to the 62. The arm from these and the RP-66 should be about the same.

 

Jim, where in Illinois are you? I can figure it out.


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#9 Jim Rektorski

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 12:25 AM

Larry,

 

I am in Naperville. I met you years ago at your track in Elburn. Any help would be great.

 

Thanks.



#10 don.siegel

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 08:28 AM

As said above, lots of these motors on eBay, not expensive. This is probably the Pittman DC66 version, but look for the more common Revell-Pittman RP66 version; magnet is different, but it will fit in the same space. 

 

Don 



#11 Jim Rektorski

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 02:24 PM

One concern I have is the track is 24 volt.

#12 don.siegel

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 04:08 PM

That seems odd, Jim - are you sure about that? These were all 12 volt motors, and they'd probably stand up for awhile under 24v, but maybe not for long... 
 
Don

#13 Cheater

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 04:12 PM

Unless you've actually measured the voltage at the braid, I wouldn't asume the info you've read or seen elsewhere is accurate.

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#14 PCH Parts Express

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 06:52 PM

Slot Car Motors Revell RP66
 
Maybe this will help someone.
Scott Salzberg
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#15 Jim Rektorski

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 07:26 PM

This is an unregulated power supply so it reads around 38 volts without a car and about 22 to 28 volts with a car.

20160803_185127.jpg

20160803_191548.jpg
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#16 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 09:41 PM

This arcade game resembles the one that I saw at "Funway' in Batavia, IL. Not sure why it is 24 volts and not rectified down to about 10 volts.

Larry D. Kelley, MA
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#17 Jim Rektorski

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 01:13 PM

I have found a couple of motors that I was able to fit and they seem to work fine.

I want to thank all for your suggestions.

20160806_115019.jpg

20160806_115019.jpg

#18 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 01:30 PM

You may have a voltage regulator in the wiring that has gone bad for such a high voltage. Most of those sealed can motors make smoke real easy at these voltages. 

 

Did you get my PM? My email is messed up this month.


Larry D. Kelley, MA
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#19 ajd350

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 11:01 AM

I have several NOS RP66s if you need.


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#20 hupp

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 10:40 AM

Hi Jim,

 

I too have this game and am in need of a pair of motors. Can you provide any insight into the part number or source for the ones you found?

 

Just as background it was easier for Harry Williams at Southland to retain the normal 24v relay logic and circuitry that is commonly used in electromechanical arcade games and alter the motors in the cars than to have to switch everything to a low voltage or to create yet another voltage in the game just for the cars. EM games only use 24vac and 6vac with very few exceptions. This track is indeed a 24vac nominal track.

 

Thanks,

 

Jon


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Jon Huppenthal

#21 don.siegel

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 11:15 AM

Thanks for the further info Jon. Let us know if you can find these motors. 

 

With the rectifier that Jim shows above, isn't the game converting the AC into DC at track level? Don't see how these motors could operate on AC, unless the cars have a diode, and they don't seem to. 

 

Would love to see photos of your game, if possible... I actually found a couple cars here in France, but they had Scalextric bodies mounted on them! Are yours the original D-Jags from Strombecker? 

 

Don 



#22 hupp

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 11:30 AM

Thanks for the correction. What I meant to say was that the track voltage is derrived (via the rectifier) from the ac voltage but there is no attempt to reduce it which leads to the higher than normal track voltage. The game is not controlled by reostats or pots in a controller but rather just by hard on-off switches in the streeing wheel also not providing any voltage reduction.
 
Thanks,

Jon
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#23 hupp

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 11:36 AM

I do have the original first generation Jag and Testa Rossa bodies with the separate non-molded-in drivers. I am missing a set of driver arms but expect that I can recast them from the pair I have if I cannot track a set or a complete driver down.

My hobby is on the EM arcade game restoration side as opposed to the slot car side but I always enjoy learning more about the hobbies that the arcade games intersect with. I get to Chicago every April for an arcade game swap meet in Saint Charles IL and I see that some of you are in Naperville.

Is there an active slot car community or shops there that worth a visit?
 
Thanks,

Jon
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#24 don.siegel

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 12:18 PM

Jon,

There are still a lot of these first generation bodies around, on eBay, but they're often missing the drivers, and at least one of the arms! 
 
Don





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