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Rookie Retro question


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#1 John Good

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Posted 09 August 2016 - 09:19 PM

Two buddies and I have been racing 1/32 cars on plastic basement tracks.  We've decided to go Retro racing, have bought  a couple Can Ams, built some  F1s using Jim Fowler's posts,  and acquired controllers and parts.  We've been practicing at Mark's Model World and Tom Thumb, with the goal being to run the Ohio Retro Series  this fall.  My question:  is there a trick to flattening braid.  I seem unable to get it to stay anywhere close to a shallow angle on the guide. 

 

Thanks in advance for the responses.

 






#2 Mike Patterson

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Posted 09 August 2016 - 09:39 PM

I usually take my thumbs and press the braid flat against the guide, then push the braid towards the front ever so slightly. Or, you can pre-flatten it by wrapping it around a piece of one inch wide 0.032" brass stock, and squeezing it with a pair of pliers. I used to use the second method exclusively, but that's more work (I hate extra work!), so I've been going with method one for a few years, with no discernible difference in performance.


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#3 Tim Neja

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Posted 09 August 2016 - 10:22 PM

Mike's got it---with the car upside down and the guide facing AWAY from you--press the braid down hard against the guide with your thumbs and push forward just a little to scrunch the braid toward the front of the guide.  Then pull it hard back and you'll have what you need.  I like to use a steel wire brush also  on the braid to flair the tail ends slightly for better contact.   :)


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#4 FSK

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 08:31 AM

Yes the above by Mike is the way. I will be at the frist race at MMW Sept 10 2016. Come and see me and I will show you guys how to do it. The ORS is a great Series with allot of good guys that will help you guys. Don't be afraid to ask for help. Retro is not a easy thing to do. I will help all that I can. Both Marks and Mac's have great guys runnung the show ask them qestions and I'm sure you will get the right anserws too. Looking farword to meeting you and your friends. Marks will have very good food so be ready to eat. LOL SK
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#5 TG Racing

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 11:52 AM

Hi John!  You won't find a better bunch of guys in the ORS.  Might one of your buddies be Bob Fulmer?  I hope you are as excited about retro as he is! lol!  Please don't hesitate to reach out to any of us.


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#6 MSwiss

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 12:11 PM

Good description from Mike P on adjusting it.

Newer racers tend to want to paddle the ends of it.

As mentioned, you have to go to the front, and push forward, essentially recreasing it.

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#7 Dallas Jackson

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 12:56 PM

I use a pair Duck-bill pliers to get to get same effect that has been mention in this post. And, yes push at tad forward to the guide flag..Works for me.


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#8 John Good

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Posted 10 August 2016 - 09:02 PM

Thanks for the tips. 



#9 John Luongo

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 05:45 AM

all great advice by those who have experience. another thing to consider when changing braids during a race, esp a point series where finishing position is crucial.  some guys will put just a small dab of solder to the braid and brass braid clip to insure that when they pull out the braid for a fast change, the whole piece comes out. if the braid and clip separate, a 10 sec repair during the race can cost you several laps while you search for pliers to pull out the brass clip. too much solder will not allow the braid to flex properly. best, john



#10 Bryan Warmack

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 06:04 PM

         A very simple tool can be easily made to quickly flatten braid.  I used a piece of aluminum plate, 1/8" thick by 3/4" wide and cut to about 6" long with a slot cut in it just a bit wider than the thickness of the guide. Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware will generally have this standard aluminum size in stock. You then glue some 80 grit sandpaper to the fork end to kind of grab the braid.

        Press down rather hard on the guide and braid and pull slightly forward and then push slightly back. With a little practice the braid is almost always perfect!  A block of wood or plastic can work just as well.

 

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#11 Greg VanPeenen

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 06:14 PM

What Bryan, Says. I have been using that method for years. It is fool proof.

 

GVP 



#12 Zippity

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 06:48 PM

What an interesting concept.

 

Does anybody sell a complete tool?



#13 The Number of

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 07:22 PM

Hi John!  You won't find a better bunch of guys in the ORS.  Might one of your buddies be Bob Fulmer?  I hope you are as excited about retro as he is! lol!  Please don't hesitate to reach out to any of us.

 

   Thom, don't tell him to talk to Bob Fulmer, that is my evil twin.  Bill


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#14 tonyp

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Posted 12 August 2016 - 06:14 AM

Lol.

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#15 John Luongo

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Posted 12 August 2016 - 06:22 AM

great idea. by the way, nice looking chassis, bryan



#16 dalek

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Posted 12 August 2016 - 07:03 AM

I like the tool that Bryan made and I might make one for myself.

 

I've been using an emery board, doing one side at a time.


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#17 Bill from NH

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Posted 12 August 2016 - 09:43 AM

What an interesting concept.

 

Does anybody sell a complete tool?

 

Ron, I never saw anyone offering  such a tool for sale. It looks more like a do-it-yourself item. A length of yardstick, or meter stick, should do. Use double sided tape or glue to affix the sandpaper to it.


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#18 Bryan Warmack

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Posted 12 August 2016 - 10:24 AM

great idea. by the way, nice looking chassis, bryan

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