Alright, fast tracks is over and done. The car I ran was, well a whale. 156 grams. It was the heaviest at the track. So time for some changes. I have since removed the shaker and look to make it much smaller and and out of 032 instead of 064. I am also looking to make some other changes. Please peruse the phot and give some ideas. I may use some or just go crazy and do something entirely different but I am looking for the a path to start on. As to the car, it started with a D3 nose, cut down and had a 064 brass guide added. The rear is Rgeo and I have Slick 7 bushings in the rear. I know about bearings but they work for me right now and did not seem to wear after the weekend. the pans are 062 and the rails are 062. I will be moving the pin tubes to further out on the rails to match to my normal scale chassis and to get the most out of the body on the car. The problem I had with the car was a lack of rear grip and it was really squirrely coming out of the donut. You see it as it was raced so the lead did not change places. I think it needs longer thinner pans and maybe more flex in the twist, but not sure if that would help. So, as I said, any and all suggestinons, please. And Thank you in advance.
Stock car upgrade/help
#1
Posted 28 August 2016 - 09:48 AM
Chris Wendel
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#2
Posted 28 August 2016 - 10:49 AM
Remove the square tubes that hold the shaker pan and split the ones that hold the bite bar. This will give you more flex. And definitely use thinner pans.
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#3
Posted 28 August 2016 - 11:31 AM
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#4
Posted 28 August 2016 - 11:49 AM
Now, to address the handling issue - aside from playing with tires, the amount of pan movement in the car is likely playing a big factor. It's a .063 rail tripod design car, which a number of racers have used very successfully, so the main rails and design aren't the problem. From what I can see, I'm guessing there is a lot of pan movement forward and back, and a fair bit of up and down. First thing I would do, cut the existing bite bar out of the car. Replace it with one that is either .047 or .055 wire, and solder it down flat inside the square tubing. Then, remove the wire loops that capture the ends of the bar. Figure out the spacing/shimming that you would need to make everything sit level and flat with the bite bar captured by a piece of 3/32 square tubing.
When all is said and done, you'll still have independent pans, but the movement up/down and fore/aft will be limited to roughly .015 - my experience has been that this will tighten the car up significantly
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#5
Posted 28 August 2016 - 12:30 PM
100% with what James said. This is part of the fun (huh?? LOL) with retro racing, build a chassis, try it, then see what small modifications do. Some of the chassis I build I get lucky and they're good out of the box, some require work to improve.
And what tires were you using?
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#6
Posted 28 August 2016 - 01:39 PM
For those of you at the race this weekend, I saw how Jerry Herbert got rid of the brass uprights and used wire for holding the front axle. He also wire braced the front wings like in a stamped steel car. I may cut mine up and do that in the future to get rid of weight and better protect those front wheels during a race.
But first, cut out the bit bar, thin it down and get rid of a lot of the pan motion. Tighten then thing up.
Thanks Gents.
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Chris Wendel
Silver Side Down Racing
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"Failure teaches way more than success. It shows what does not work and what to never do again, again..." 🙊🙈🙉
#7
Posted 28 August 2016 - 01:42 PM
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Chris Wendel
Silver Side Down Racing
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The Race Place Retro Crew member
"Failure teaches way more than success. It shows what does not work and what to never do again, again..." 🙊🙈🙉
#8
Posted 28 August 2016 - 01:57 PM
.
But first, cut out the bit bar, thin it down and get rid of a lot of the pan motion. Tighten then thing up.
If you are making new pans you may want to get rid of the bite bar completely. Use the pan control like that on many of the kits that use an extension off the rear of the chassis.
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
Robert Mueller, special counsel (2013)
"... because people have got to know whether or not their president is a crook."
Richard M .Nixon, Nov 17, 1973
"Fool me once, same on... shame on you. Fool me... you can't get fooled again."
George W. Bush
#9
Posted 28 August 2016 - 02:04 PM
As to the pans, that will have too wait until I can get my hands on a block so that I don't make the car too wide and I can really get better results. No reason to make changes that don't work because it went together wrong.
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Chris Wendel
Silver Side Down Racing
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"Failure teaches way more than success. It shows what does not work and what to never do again, again..." 🙊🙈🙉
#10
Posted 28 August 2016 - 09:48 PM
For your pin tubes, here is a trick I use when trying different chassis designs. Measure from the center of the front axle to the center of where you want your front tube to be. Then measure the distance from the front tube to where you want the second one to be. This way you can use the same body on different chassis. If you like to switch between. 032 and .064 brass pans simply add a .032 spacer under the pin tube when using .032 pans. This method works for all classes.
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#11
Posted 29 August 2016 - 01:05 PM
Also change the lead wires to those on the second place car in Noose's report.
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#12
Posted 29 August 2016 - 03:29 PM
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#13
Posted 29 August 2016 - 08:08 PM
Chris Wendel
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#14
Posted 29 August 2016 - 08:25 PM
Chris Mike uses a floating bite bar as I do. If you use .032 pans you probably wont make the 125 minimum . For a center weight I us a .064 x 3/4 wide 1.250 long it ways 10 grams . RTR with no led the car is around 140 which is pretty much where you want it. The chassi bare weighs 84 grams
I also bend my outer rails farther up the mains . It adds alittle more flex
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#15
Posted 29 August 2016 - 08:33 PM
As to the weight, John, mine needs a crash diet and I would rather need to add than to be so overweight again. Besides, I will then have some brakes.
Chris Wendel
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#16
Posted 29 August 2016 - 09:57 PM
Joe My bite bar is floating in the tubing but not much as it is .063 stainless rod in the 3/32 square tube so there is not much movement. Side to side really doesnt matter. I use two pieces of insulation stripped off of lead wire as a retainer. You can see them in the picture.
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#17
Posted 30 August 2016 - 07:34 AM
It is perhaps one of the most interesting things about building these cars, that the various builders have a number of ways in which they accomplish the same goal of building a car - and they all work
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#18
Posted 30 August 2016 - 03:26 PM
Chris Wendel
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"Failure teaches way more than success. It shows what does not work and what to never do again, again..." 🙊🙈🙉
#19
Posted 30 August 2016 - 04:02 PM
Out of curiosity ( and I forgot to ask before ), do all 4 tires sit planted on the block with the guide height set for the correct braid depth?
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#20
Posted 30 August 2016 - 04:29 PM
Chris Wendel
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"Failure teaches way more than success. It shows what does not work and what to never do again, again..." 🙊🙈🙉
#21
Posted 31 August 2016 - 01:21 PM
Kurts car was screwy too. But max's car same as the other 2 was fast. So maybe the characteristics of the car are better for one driver and not the other two? Jerry also seemed to be fine with a car slightly different. Having said all they there are a ferw things i will be changing.
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#22
Posted 03 September 2016 - 06:04 AM
Chris Wendel
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"Failure teaches way more than success. It shows what does not work and what to never do again, again..." 🙊🙈🙉
#23
Posted 03 September 2016 - 09:57 AM
Chris , I would either cut off the front ears in front of the tires or use thinner brass for the center weight . I have tested a lot of cars and when i cut the front ears off it really helped with corner speed .
Casey Dill
"At this time in life I have more fun racing for last than years ago when I was racing for first."
#24
Posted 03 September 2016 - 12:19 PM
Chris Wendel
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"Failure teaches way more than success. It shows what does not work and what to never do again, again..." 🙊🙈🙉