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Your choice of FK motor


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#1 swodem

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Posted 17 September 2016 - 10:05 PM

I started this thread on OWH, and would appreciate members having a look and voting in one place

What FK Motor of choice and Why?
http://www.slotcarta...0910#post340910


I'm not trying to lure anyone one away....




#2 Tex

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Posted 17 September 2016 - 10:19 PM

I prefer whichever FK motor the local retro organization allows. Makes no difference to me... let's just race.


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#3 Tim Neja

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Posted 17 September 2016 - 11:06 PM

Any sealed motor works for me!  My real preference is the TSR that we used to run. It was FAR more consistent than the current Retro Hawks--but the Retro Hawks have been in use now for a couple of years and their much better than the PS motors. WAY to much tinkering to make the PS motors reliable and their REALLY inconsistent!  So the Retro Hawk has been the way to go.


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#4 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 12:45 AM

Not a sealed motor but I'm curious if anyone gave this motor a whirl and how it performed?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti


#5 Samiam

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 05:56 AM

I'll vote here

 

I'll go with the JK Hawk Retro. Lasts more than two races and I've had fewer unraceable duds. I like the tied comm. too.

 

Try posting an external link to another slot site on OWH. Not gonna' happen.


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Sam Levitch
 
When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail.
Support your local raceway, or you won't have one.
Slot cars are quad-pods.
Support your "Local Racer."
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#6 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 08:00 AM

Finally somebody who knows the correct name for the Hawk Retro motor :good:


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#7 Uncle Fred

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 08:39 AM

I like the PS FK because of the brush assembly but I have purchase several that are bad right from the start.  I've had ones where the magnets rub or the arms are shorted out.


Fred Correnti

#8 Samiam

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 09:09 AM

" but I have purchase several that are bad right from the start.  I've had ones where the magnets rub or the arms are shorted out."

I hope you returned these as defective.


Sam Levitch
 
When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail.
Support your local raceway, or you won't have one.
Slot cars are quad-pods.
Support your "Local Racer."
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#9 Tom Eatherly

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 11:49 AM

I seem to get along with the TSR the best. That's my vote.


Tom Eatherly

#10 James Grandi

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 11:50 AM

I prefer the brakes of the Pro Slot FK motor, but otherwise, have to go with the Retro Hawk


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#11 Jason Holmes

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 02:43 PM

Would Love to use the PSFK but like the R/Hawk just the same

 

Jason



#12 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 05:00 PM

Guess it depends on the chassis we are putting them in, however overall I like the Hawk Retro


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#13 Brinkley47

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 07:40 PM

Retro Hawk
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#14 Mark Wampler

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 09:20 PM

Finally somebody who knows the correct name for the Hawk Retro motor :good:

Here's the deal with our crazy english language.  There's no pat rule to where adjectives fall in line in relation to nouns.  For instance we have no problem with identifying with the  "Hawk Seven".  No one would say  "Seven Hawk".   You can say that's a "classic Chevy" or "Chevy classic". Far as english is concerned, it doesn't matter.  I prefer Retro Hawk. it doesn't matter to me.  IT just sounds better.  F W I W


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#15 Mark Wampler

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 09:25 PM

Not a sealed motor but I'm curious if anyone gave this motor a whirl and how it performed?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

That's a curious motor Tim.  I don't know.  Who has experience with those?


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You can quote me.

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#16 Samiam

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 10:17 PM

It is listed as the Hawk Retro. However, Retro Hawk just rolls off the tongue smoother. So that is how most people refer to it as.
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Sam Levitch
 
When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail.
Support your local raceway, or you won't have one.
Slot cars are quad-pods.
Support your "Local Racer."
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#17 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 10:47 PM

That's a curious motor Tim.  I don't know.  Who has experience with those?

I may have to buy one Mark, gear it 10/28 and let it rip on the Gerding King track :shout:


"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti


#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 10:49 PM

The local hard body club uses the H&R Hawk with pretty good success, but I've never heard of the Crushers.


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#19 Mark Wampler

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 12:53 AM

I may have to buy one Mark, gear it 10/28 and let it rip on the Gerding King track :shout:

SCRRA may not mind long as you don't do any 3.7's :D


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#20 swodem

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 01:44 AM

Not a sealed motor but I'm curious if anyone gave this motor a whirl and how it performed?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Hahahaha I reckon Havlicek had some leftover blue VHT enamel and painted up a storm on some Hawk 7's, with a little 'made-in-China' stencil to throw everyone off the scent...

 

Good luck soldering that in place...



#21 NSwanberg

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 05:55 AM

RH


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#22 tonyp

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 07:01 AM

HR is the best of the ones I used followed by the TSR.

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#23 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 11:37 AM

 

Hahahaha I reckon Havlicek had some leftover blue VHT enamel and painted up a storm on some Hawk 7's, with a little 'made-in-China' stencil to throw everyone off the scent...

 

Good luck soldering that in place...

Standard 2mm shaft solder on application.  


"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti


#24 Mark Wampler

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 11:50 AM

 

Hahahaha I reckon Havlicek had some leftover blue VHT enamel and painted up a storm on some Hawk 7's, with a little 'made-in-China' stencil to throw everyone off the scent...

 

Good luck soldering that in place...

Motor screws


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#25 MSwiss

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 12:07 PM

If one wanted to try that motor in a stamped chassis, you would just grind the paint off, from the appropriate area, just like racers did with Mura motors, for 20+ years.
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Mike Swiss
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#26 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:24 PM

If one wanted to try that motor in a stamped chassis, you would just grind the paint off, from the appropriate area, just like racers did with Mura motors, for 20+ years.

Isnt that H&R motor just a Hawk 7?


Matt Sheldon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


#27 Dave Crevie

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:30 PM

The H&R Crusher motor is a step up from their Lightning II, which is roughly equal to a Falcon III. The brakes

are better on the Crusher, but still considerably less than a Pro-Slot. We use the H&R motors in the H&R

adjustable chassis with vintage sedan bodies, ala dirt stockers.



#28 MSwiss

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:31 PM

Matt,
I wouldn't know.

H&R seems to have a non-existent presence on the internet.

I have zero idea who owns them.

PS-I didn't see Dave's post.

Mike Swiss
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
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mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address) 
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516. Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#29 Bill from NH

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:36 PM

The H&R Hawk is an 18K RPM motor that has an endbell like a Playfit Rabbit, but the can has cooling slots top & bottom.


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#30 jimht

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:38 PM

?...found by putting "H & R slot car" into Google  :D 

http://www.hnrracing.com/


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#31 Toni-Lee Neilson

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 07:25 PM

i'm for the sealed motors, either the Falcon 7 or the Hawk 7. Just my personal preference . Maintenance free and they can't really be altered. Just solder in and use until it dies. , that's why I stayed with them when everyone changed over to the JK4200 motors. Didn't Darrens hand controller blow up because the JK endbell got too hot and shorted out?. 



#32 Zippity

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 07:41 PM

Didn't Darrens hand controller blow up because the JK endbell got too hot and shorted out?. 

 

That is the $64,000 question!

 

At one stage he blamed the Wellington Slot Car Club track wiring for creating the damage.....................



#33 swodem

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 08:15 PM

No I think you will find he thought the very high amperage of the track power supply delivers a killer current that the controllers are not self- protected from in the event of a short


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#34 Samiam

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 08:42 PM

That's the first time I have ever heard of a racer complain about too much power.


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Sam Levitch
 
When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail.
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Slot cars are quad-pods.
Support your "Local Racer."
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#35 Zippity

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 08:43 PM

Not what he was saying......



#36 swodem

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 08:46 PM

It's what he's saying now. Blow your $1100 controller up at a race event and tell me what you say


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#37 Zippity

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 11:09 PM

It was a Carsteen!!!

 

Where do you get the inflated  $1100 price tag from?



#38 swodem

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 11:10 PM

It was a new 3rd Eye nFet3 - mate you get it wrong more often than the weatherman!!! ;-)

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#39 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 11:17 PM

The H&R product line IS overlooked in most of the commercial raceways.  Our 1/32 plastic car club find their two slowest motors a very good value and substitute for the equivelant Ninco/Carrera/Scalextric motors that retail for twice the money.  The higher RPM products should be tested and considered for inclusion as a usable true 'FK-130'.


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#40 Zippity

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 12:22 AM

It was a new 3rd Eye nFet3 - mate you get it wrong more often than the weatherman!!! ;-)

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Whatever!.

 

For a guy who wasn't even there, you seem to have a lot of knowledge about what really happened!!



#41 swodem

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 12:45 AM

 

Whatever!.

 

For a guy who wasn't even there, you seem to have a lot of knowledge about what really happened!!

 

Scary huh, when you were there and got it all wrong

 

I just deal in the facts Ma'am


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#42 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 12:45 PM

i'm for the sealed motors, either the Falcon 7 or the Hawk 7. Just my personal preference . Maintenance free and they can't really be altered. Just solder in and use until it dies. , that's why I stayed with them when everyone changed over to the JK4200 motors. Didn't Darrens hand controller blow up because the JK endbell got too hot and shorted out?. 


I replaced all 4 transistors on Darren's controller - 3 of them were blown, and I can tell you, our track power is enough to blow a controller, but you still need a short. Rules state we're not allowed to 'time' the brushes, i.e. Trim them to avoid a short across the comm. My LMP motor shorted after a couple nights racing while I was running it in for the nats. I know the symptoms so didn't blow my controller. So I went and 'faced' the brushes (as if the motor's not run in - so it is as it comes from the factory). I removed the brushes after the nats and again they were run in so needed facing or trimming of trailing edge as again they were starting to short out. This btw was on a perfectly aligned brush hood...
Eben

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#43 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 12:47 PM

It was a new 3rd Eye nFet3 - mate you get it wrong more often than the weatherman!!! ;-)

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It was the 3rd Eye E-wire, so it's US$750 or NZ$1100

Eben Brand


#44 Zippity

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 12:50 PM

Thanks for clarifying that Eben.

 

More importantly, was the fact that it was not the track wiring that caused the blow out.



#45 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 12:54 PM

Most of the modern controllers use a polyfuse, and they're a bit slow to trip. On 100A from memory they take 2sec to pop. The transistors I replaced can sink 80A a pop, so there was >320A going through there, assuming current was perfectly balanced over the transistors. I have once blown the output stage on my own design controller, and it can sink >340A, but it was sitting there on the short for a bit before it popped. Also of course on a shorted FK4002 - easily fixable on the motor, not so much on the controller...

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#46 Zippity

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 01:38 PM

And now translated into plain English? :scratch_one-s_head:



#47 swodem

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 01:42 PM

It was the 3rd Eye E-wire, so it's US$750 or NZ$1100

 

There are two models of E-wire, the Fet2 (came out a couple years back) and the NFet3 (much more recent). The NFet3 is Darrens one that got shorted out.

 

http://thirdeyetechnology.net



#48 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 01:45 PM

Correct


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#49 swodem

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 01:46 PM

I replaced all 4 transistors on Darren's controller - 3 of them were blown, and I can tell you, our track power is enough to blow a controller, but you still need a short. Rules state we're not allowed to 'time' the brushes, i.e. Trim them to avoid a short across the comm. My LMP motor shorted after a couple nights racing while I was running it in for the nats. I know the symptoms so didn't blow my controller. So I went and 'faced' the brushes (as if the motor's not run in - so it is as it comes from the factory). I removed the brushes after the nats and again they were run in so needed facing or trimming of trailing edge as again they were starting to short out. This btw was on a perfectly aligned brush hood...
Eben

 

I wonder why ALL 4002 motors don't have this shorting issue and controllers are blowing up all over the world with those that use them?

 

I've used these motors for the last 18months and never had a short, blown fuse, or similar. We have run these motors successfully in 6hr enduros until the brushes are nearly out and they still pull like a schoolboy. Brush facing isn't required, the opposite, we bed them in or use a turtle or similar to speed up the process



#50 Bazzie

Bazzie

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 02:03 PM

Yup, some seem to be ok, like my F1 motor, but I know of at least 4 ppl that have had problem motors, me included.


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