23 replies to this topic

[Bobby Page]

​Just alittle something that I glued together.  As always comments are welcome on any improvements someone might think of or see that I don't.

Attached Images

• 
• 
• 

[Bill from NH]

Bobby, your cooling fan look pretty good.  I used to have access to used computer fans for a buck, so I have a few cooling stations similar to yours. A few general comments, Radio Shack used to sell metal clips to hold 9V battery, maybe they still do, I liked to wire 2-9V batteries in parallel, that made for less frequent battery changes & provided more amperage to the fan. I built some fans with power switches & some without. Those without got two round headed brass screws on one side or the guide slot spaced about 1/2" apart.. One of the power leads going to the fan was cut & each side of the cut was wired to one of these two screws. thus causing an open in that particular power lead. When a car is set on fan, one of the guide's pickup brushes contacts both screws, completing the circuit & turning the fan on. Doing this means one less part to buy & eliminates fewer components that might fail. I'm sure yours will work well for you, just as you built it. One of the local up here built a coolingt station using a 110V fan of some sort. When he turned it on, it reved & screeched like an airplane engine.                                                                                                   

[Bobby Page]

​Yes I see what you are saying.  The battery is held in place with Velcro so the change out would be simple.  Just used what I already had on hand.

[old & gray]

Now you just need a place for those other things you need for a lane change - braid conditioner, oil, hex wrench, braids, stickers,and lane change card.

[Samiam]

Don't forget an old guide flag on the bottom for those banked track sections.

[Bobby Page]

Maybe but, doesn't anybody wear aprons any more?

[Geary Carrier]

Hi Bobby,

 

If you can increase the air velocity through the motor it will cool down faster...

 

http://thermal-imagi...t/#.V-Xz8DWZhkQ

 

 

Thanks,

g

 

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Maybe but, doesn't anybody wear aprons any more?

I've kept a carpenter's nail apron in my slot box for years. They used to be given away free with some advertising stenciled on them. I know there have been several slot car aprons sold, but I never needed one of those.

[John C Martin]

One of 2 ways I do it..hobby lobby apron..
Or fan with magnetic alum. heat sink epoxied onto fan..
Bobby I do cool the motor but I think a smaller dia. Fan would be best as cooling the tires, IMO is not good..

Attached Images

• 
• 
• 
• 

[Bobby Page]

​My thanks to you all.  This is after all my first effort.  The next one will probably be FET controlled, with AI telling me what's wrong with it.   

[Mike Jr]

If you use a motor heat sink designed by Matt Bruce, then you probably will not need a motor cooler

[Bobby Page]

Does it fit minibrute, falcon7, retrohawk, hawk7.  Not familiar with this one.

[Bill from NH]

I believe it's the U-shaped one that RGEO sells. It screws on the can end of the motors at the motor bracket & goes along each side of the can. I'd think it was better than nothing, but I don't see it effective drawing heat away from the comm & motor brushes. I believe it's made from aluminum, sheet copper might work too.

[Rotorranch]

If you use a motor heat sink designed by Matt Bruce, then you probably will not need a motor cooler

 

Does anyone have any of these for sale?

 

Rotor

[Racer36]

Does anyone have any of these for sale?
 
Rotor

ERI and Eagle have them. Your local Raceway can get them for you.

[Rotorranch]

ERI and Eagle have them. Your local Raceway can get them for you.

 

Neither Eagle nor ERI show them in stock. They are also no longer shown as available on the R-Geo website.

 

Rotor

[philk]

Take the switch off and instead run the wires to two small screws , with the heads along the same side of the guide flag slot. the braid will make the circut by touching both and turn the fan on and off. Sorry I see Bill already suggested that , never mind .

[philk]

Sometimes wonder though if it does more harm to the motor by going through numerous heat and cool cycles instead of just letting it stay hot. If the smoke is going to come out it will come out no matter what.

[Rotorranch]

Sometimes wonder though if it does more harm to the motor by going through numerous heat and cool cycles instead of just letting it stay hot. If the smoke is going to come out it will come out no matter what.

 

I have wondered the same thing, however it's a proven fact that a cold motor is faster. 

 

Rotor

[MSwiss]

If you start racing again, Jeff, you'll find out that's not always the case.

[Rotorranch]

If you start racing again, Jeff, you'll find out that's not always the case.

 

Maybe I should have said "usually".

 

But as with anything, YMMV.

 

And I'll be racing soon! Maybe my low CG flags will be here soon!

 

Rotor

[Bill from NH]

Some motor brush arms & motor brush springs will lose tension as they heat up. Cooling a motor can help retain the original tension. As in anything, there's an exception to everything, except death & taxes.

[Zack Morgan]

This is the one I just whipped up for my hardbody cars. I added a microswitch that is activated by the weight of the car, so it is always on when the car is on there. It's a little rough and tumble (i built it in an hour), but it should do the trick!

 

I also just used an old RC car lipo, I may go 3s if this isn't enough. But it will run this fan for hours before needing a bump!

 

 

Zack

[Danny Zona]

 
Maybe I should have said "usually".
 
But as with anything, YMMV.
 
And I'll be racing soon! Maybe my low CG flags will be here soon!
 
Rotor

I can't say usually with fk motors. I would give it a 50/50 in my assessment.

I often run my car on a power supply in between heats. I've witnessed racers holding solder irons on motors between heats.

Now I would agree with built motors from the past usually liking to be cooled off as often as possible.