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The T-Flex Tome


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#1 Cheater

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 09:46 AM

As many of you know, a few years ago I penned a Champion Turbo-Flex chassis blueprinting guide, to try to put on paper what I had learned in over fifteen years of running that chassis almost exclusively. And I've shared it with literally hundreds of racers around the world, many of whom subsequently let me know that the set-up worked well for them, too.

I responded to a racer's request on OWH a couple of days ago and offered the guide to anyone who wanted it, as I have done several times before on that board as well as on others (including Slotblog). The response this time was pretty massive, with over 30 folks requesting the guide in the last day or so. If there's that much demand, I guess it's time to post it here for all to download.

If one is to be truthful, the T-Flex chassis is getting a little long in tooth. The newer three-piece stamped steel chassis are probably faster overall, but I still maintain that the T-Flex works better on more tracks than just about any stamped steel chassis ever made. And IMO it is still the champ for durability.

These specs are offered not as the only way to set-up a T-Flex, but as a well-tested way that has been successfully raced at all levels, including national championship events on multiple continents. My suggestion is that racers should build a chassis exactly to these instructions first and try it before making any changes or additions. In my years of running this chassis, I've tried everything I could think of and what is in the tome is what worked!

Attached File  T_Flex_Tome_2.06.08.pdf   328.86KB   2489 downloads

Here's a pic of a T-Flex built to the instructions in the tome, with a few other tricks that aren't mentioned. (This pic is also included in the PDF.)

FinishedChassis800.jpg

(Thanks to Steve Saunders for converting my text file and pic to a PDF.)
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Gregory Wells

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#2 JerseyJohn

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 09:52 AM

Thanks for sharing with us, Greg. Be well!!
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#3 JEngland

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 11:32 PM

Greg,

In your opinion, do you believe the T/F is still competitive?

How are they doing today, nationally against the newer generation chassis? Are they holding their own?

The JK C11 is giving us a fit at our raceway with changing gears and motors. Lots of burnt fingers and screams from the pit tables.
John England

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#4 Dominator

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 01:10 AM

What kind of specific problems are you having with the C11? Are you munching gears?

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
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#5 JEngland

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 10:32 AM

It just takes us much longer to solder the motor in when you are in a rush, like in between heats.

The C11 is the most amazing Flexi chassis I have been racing. We love the way you can dive into the turns.

I raced a Kelly FX last night with some success also.
John England

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#6 Cheater

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 07:18 AM

John,

To answer your question, I do think that the new three-piece Flexis have the upper hand now on most tracks.

I believe the T-Flex is still more durable than almost all of the other chassis and that it can hold its own with the newer chassis on many tracks, especially if well set-up and dialed-in.

I haven't been doing much USRA/AMSRA racing over the last couple of years, so I am kinda behind the curve as to what's working best in the stamped steel classes these days.

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#7 papasmurf

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 09:45 PM

I just want to say thank you for this information, not that I intend on building a T-Flex any time soon, but more for new ideas and tried and true methods of assembly.

I currently have an extremely fast JK C11 and intend on working on a Flexi 5 soon. I'm just getting back into slot cars and have limited cars and tools.

Knowledge is like fun, you can never have too much.


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#8 Dallas Racer

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 06:25 PM

Great write-up, Greg! I already knew most of it, but I did learn a few new tricks that I'll definitely use in the future.

Phil Smith ® ™


#9 Mark C.

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 12:30 AM

I starting running the T-Flex chassis in 2001 and still run them to this day... IMO they are the best chassis out there still...

I have won many series with them and many races... who woulda thought a chassis made over a decade ago would still be kicking the pants off most chassis? :shok:

It's the easiest to set up by far... but I do think if you master a setup on a Flexi 5 or C11 they have the upper hand... but few can get those cars dialed in... It's extremely easy to get a competitive Turbo-Flex though and you can't beat the durabilty of it for new racers and some veterans. :laugh2:
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#10 Dooner

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 05:43 PM

Gregory,

If I understand; is it true for a donut like on a King the rear wheel on the inside would have more spacers?
Tom Backes

#11 Cheater

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 06:00 PM

Tom,

You have it backwards.

If you're having trouble getting around the donut on a King, stick the outside wheel/tire out farther by putting more spacers on that side, not on the inside. It will usually help in the donut without hurting elsewhere.

Really, it's just another tuning variable...

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#12 Dooner

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 06:04 PM

Thank you, :thank_you2:

Now I understand.
Tom Backes

#13 Ralph Thorne

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 06:38 PM

IMO the T-Flex is no longer competitive on a National level, except on an oval. Which is mainly due to, as Greg said, its durability. The T-Flex is also still kinda good for Flexi GT, with the front chassis height rule its takes away some of the advantage most of the newer chassis have.

Now the Champion 4-1/2 chassis is a different story; it's still competive on a National level.

After the AMSRA Nats next weekend, I'll let you guys know how many T-Flexes I see there.

#14 John Streisguth

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 09:39 AM

Does anyone have any input as to which steel Flexi-type chassis would have the most grip on a dry, slick track?

I am currently running a Turbo-Flex. The track is fairly clean but no prep such as spray glue is done. I am thinking another chassis may have better mechanical grip than the T-Flex. I have tried various tires, and Alphas treated with Zip-Grip seem to work the best, but you still slide around a lot. If you apply glue to the tires you get good bite for about five laps, then it's back to the skating rink.

Any suggestions about this are greatly appreciated.
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#15 JerseyJohn

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 09:52 AM

John,

The Cheetah 11 three-piece is awesome!!!
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#16 John Streisguth

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 10:56 AM

Do you have one you can bring this weekend?
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#17 Noose

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 11:03 AM

I do, John... will bring it. Let me know if you are car-pooling with me and Katz.

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#18 John Streisguth

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 11:57 AM

Thanks, Noose. I know some of the other guys have them but they chatter pretty badly... of course that's not to say they have the set up perfectly but they are some of the faster guys there (Slot Car Revival). I figured maybe they were too light.

I'll let you know about the carpooling. Things are still up in the air.
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#19 JerseyJohn

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 12:23 PM

John, they also came out with a two-piece which should keep your chatter down.
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#20 John Streisguth

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 01:35 PM

That's a good thought, John. I'll have to check them out. Have you raced these and found that they grip better than the other chassis in slick conditions? I would describe the track as no glue... ever! LOL
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#21 slotcarone

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 04:51 PM

:D John,

I have a three-piece C11 and it doesn't chatter - have never heard of that problem with that chassis - it is awesome and handles great.

Mike Katz

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#22 Phil Irvin

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 05:11 PM

I would describe the track as no glue... ever! LOL


The first Parma Flexi-Kar was designed for no glue racing. When we even slightly glued the track, it became very tippy rather than slide. We tried narrowing the tires and that helped but going to the old harder orange did better.

I like my TF cars loose and set them up very loose. Floating pin tubes, making sure there is enough wing slop, etc., to work on a very stuck track. When going to a slippery track. I first tape the body to the wing. Starting in the rear. Then tape the whole length to the wing. If still sliding, I tape all across the back of the chassis, body to body to limit the movement to the front. Only once did I have to tape everything... And I got beat by a Parma. :blush: He was no contest on a sticky track. :laugh2:

Also move the body forward on the chassis. You might be surprised as to what a 1/8 to 1/4 inch movement can do ;) ...

Olphrt
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#23 JerseyJohn

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 07:38 PM

John,

I use the Cheetah for B-Production and the Flexi on Dom's track with no glue. With natural rubber tires it handles great.
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#24 John Streisguth

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 05:29 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. John, compared to this track Dom's is bogged down in glue (LOL)... I mean REALLY slick.

I'll try some of the T-Flex tuning suggestions, and I do have some old Flexi-1 chassis so maybe I'll set one up for the next race. Then I may spring for the C-11 chassis...oh no, MORE cars??? (ha ha)
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#25 John Streisguth

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Posted 08 April 2009 - 07:39 AM

Thanks for everyone's advice.

I set up a Flexi-1 chassis and won last night's race by 17 laps. I also mounted a different body on the T-Flex which was a bit lower in the rear and a tad farther forward. That worked to help the traction but I was curious how the Flexi would run, so I went with it.

I also had a chance to look at the Cheetah the other guy was running: one rear axle bushing had become unsoldered and must have been spinning, as it had about 1/32" slop. That explains the chatter! Unfortunately that may mean he'll get that car dialed in and beat me... Oh well! :laugh2:
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