Help building a 1966 MPC GTO
Posted 31 October 2016 - 08:28 PM
Although I will eventually own a perfectly nice shelf queen of this car, at this time I would like to build a correct MPC GTO that I can "take out on Sundays" on a few parade, non-competitive laps.
With that said, I am turning to the strengths and experience of the forum.
At this point, I have aquired a clean MPC Ford J with an aluminum flat pan chassis as my basis.
My shelf queen will be an idler gear car, but this one I am building with a non-idler chassis to drive. This chassis is complete, but what is correct and what is not is beyond me.
I addition to the chassis, I have acquired the old, original MPC GTO model kit with the "slot car conversion" parts. I also have a set on repro wheel covers and spinners.
I have taken a series of photos of the Ford J. Unfortunately, I do not know how to upload pictures on this forum.
If I can get some pictures up here I would be looking for comments as to incorrectness, missing items, worn out items as well as any sources to obtain the needed parts to make a real deal GTO.
I would also appreciate any comments as to steps needed to clean up the parts, etc....chemicals to use and chemicals to avoid....
Correct hardware...etc, etc....
If anybody can advise how to upload photos, maybe we can start some discussions.
Posted 01 November 2016 - 05:55 AM
To post pictures here, you first upload them to a photosharing website, and then link to them when posting using the "image" button at the top of the reply screen. I think you used to be able to do it directly (?), but maybe I'm misremembering Anyway, there are many photosharing sites and the ones that let you use their services for free can be annoying because of all sorts of pop-ups and whatnot. I've been using Photobucket and lately it's been all-but-unusable...there are others though.
On the chemicals thing, Always:
*use the weakest solvent first and see if it works.
*test even the weakest solvent before you ruin something.
Water is of course the safest of all solvents, but even water will cause rust. Denatured alcohol is an excellent solvent, and is kind of unique in that it dissolves in water, but will also clean oily residue and some paints...including dried latex paint. It will also remove everything from magic marker to armature dye...but is also flammable. Acetone and nail polish remover will remove a lot of things that other solvents can't, but it is really REALLY flammable. Sometimes, it's better to use a "detergent" and water than a strong solvent, but you need to remove detergent residue afterwards...in other words, you need to clean the cleaner. Before doing something like painting, you may need to not only make sure the surface is clean, but you may also need to rough it up a little so the coating (paint) has more to grab on to.
There are folks here who do some beautiful restorations and have undoubtedly gotten to their skill level by making mistakes. I'm pretty sure they'll be happy to see you and others avoid making those same mistakes.
Posted 01 November 2016 - 12:34 PM
What "is original" to the GTO are the useless/dysfunctional parts not on the J-car and mako - the idler gear and the front axle string brake.
retired raceway owner... (for now)
race directing around Chicago-land
USRA 2011 member #025-2
USSCA 2015 member
Great Lakes Slot Car Club member
60+ year pin Racing rail/slot cars in America
Posted 01 November 2016 - 01:16 PM
Thanks for the reply on chemical use. I was thinking of a Simple Green or Super Clean solution in hot water...soaking and soft brush cleaning for all chassis part except the motor.
I have heard pretty much the same on the "swing brake" and idler gear set up.
I apologize to all as I have been wrestling with Photobucket all morning without success.
I would like to post some pictures to give a visual and get some more response. I will continue my battle.
Posted 01 November 2016 - 02:14 PM
Chuck, I can show you pics of an original GTO chassis,interior, body etc. as well as some other Goats I've created if you like.
Here are my thoughts, based on experience.
Do not use Super Clean for anything except stripping paint. It is very corrosive and will corrode parts very quickly if you soak them. It's stronger than it looks.
To clean the chassis etc. you can use mineral spirits with an acid brush to get in the tight spaces.
Use Dawn dishwashing detergent after to remove residue. Also gets any remaining grease.
Use air or a hair dryer to dry right after.
Polish parts like wheels, axles etc. using a Dremel with a fine Scotchbrite pad. You can use 0000 steel wool too but keep it away from motors and magnets.
A final polish with Mothers or you favorite polish works great but keep in mind nothing came "factory" polished on these cars.
Be happy to help with more specific questions. Joe
Posted 01 November 2016 - 03:23 PM
Posted 01 November 2016 - 08:58 PM
I have seen endbells colored in a dark/dull red, black and white.
Are their any differences with these endbells and/or their compositions?
Is a specific endbell used with certain applications...??..e.g. RTR cars vs. kit cars vs. spare parts.
(My particular motor has a red endbell.....)
Any rhyme or reason...???
Posted 01 November 2016 - 09:56 PM
Posted 02 November 2016 - 10:28 AM
I must profess that I am somewhat-to-totally computer illiterate. I used Zippity's suggestions to the Slotblog's process to upload photos (Thanks, Zippity)...
Here are some photos of the chassis I purchased as my basis with the GTO build. In hindsight, these photos should have been uploaded during the original post...
As asked before, please comment on anything you see as far as incorrectness, missing parts, suggestions etc., etc.
I am expecting the GTO model kit today (original MPC kit w/ slot car interior plate, etc.).
My theme will be a non-painted, non-decorated body with a clean and correct non-idler gear chassis.
Posted 02 November 2016 - 11:03 AM
I am pretty much MPC illiterate so I can't really help with the "Korrectness" of your project. But I very much enjoy the restoration process and look forward to your postings. Thanks for sharing with us!
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
Posted 02 November 2016 - 01:39 PM
That chassis will work just fine with the side mounts removed, as Matt said.
Here is a '65 model conversion I'm working on using an original GTO interior plate and the same chassis you have.
PS: I've answered your PM.
Posted 02 November 2016 - 05:05 PM
In hindsight, these photos should have been uploaded during the original post...
Well, I've merged the two threads into one under the original subject line to get everything in one place. Hope that's OK with you, Chuck.
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
Posted 02 November 2016 - 09:54 PM
You're the best... Thanks for the merge...
And, guys... keep your comments and suggestions coming.
Posted 07 November 2016 - 10:54 PM
After removing the side mounts, replace them with the brass side weights which mount in the same place. These will help on big tracks, not so much on the home track.