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#1 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 10 December 2016 - 06:26 PM

It is no secret I like vintage slot cars, and especially replicating pro-racers from the mid-'60s to the early '70s.  However, there’s a serious problem.

 

The Problem

 

Building these cars as period correct replicas depends heavily on the ability to acquire actual period correct parts. Some period correct parts have been easy to find, while others have been more difficult, but lately even the once more plentiful parts have become scarce, and their prices have risen considerably.

 

As if this is not enough, there is the reality that some parts just cannot be had at any price because they simply no longer exist (or never did exist as a product with a part number).  As a result I find there are some vintage replica project cars I’m simply never going to be able to finish. It’s been frustrating me for too many years.

 

Despite my frustration, I have always avoided using a mix of vintage and modern parts.  It is not heresy to mix vintages; some builders do that with great success and that’s perfectly okay with me.  It’s just my own personal choice not to do it that way.

 

A Different Approach

 

For me this leaves only one other reasonable solution; if I cannot acquire and build with all vintage parts, then I go the other way and use no vintage parts at all.  The result is a category of cars I will call “vintage-style”.

 

Vintage-style cars are intended to look and perform like vintage pro-racers but could never be called period-correct vintage replicas because they will not contain any vintage parts.

 

Vintage-style cars are not intended to be racers and in any case will not interfere with any established racing series because they would never conform to any current rule sets and thus never pass tech

 

Vintage-style cars should in general be built for the fun and exercise of building and intended to be run hard without worry because all the parts will be easily replaceable.

 

Modern Parts, Vintage Rules and Self Discipline

 

It is historical accuracy in technical detail, not vintage parts, that defines a vintage-style car.  To build them you will need a working knowledge of slot racing history, or at least a good resource to look it up, and the self discipline to do the research and apply that knowledge to your builds.

 

Each vintage-style car should be built with modern parts that conform first to vintage rules in a specific year (your choice), and also state-of-the-art chassis and motor design and construction for the month in that year your car represents.

 

Examples of Historically Accurate Technical Detail

 

1966 sports and coupe cars will have, among other things, inline drive, rod or tube drop arms, outrigger style body mounts, endbell drive D-can motors with 29 gauge wire, 1/8” axles, 15/16” rear and 7/8” front tires, and bodies available during 1966 or a few years earlier.

 

1967 sports and coupe cars will have, among other things, inline drive, built-up rod drop arms but no hinged body mounts until October, endbell drive D-can motors with 28 or 27 gauge wire, 1/8” axles, 7/8” rear and front tires, 1967 or earlier bodies.

 

1968 sports and coupe cars before April will have, among other things, inline drive, slab drop arms, side pans, endbell drive D-can motors with 27 or 26 gauge wire, 1/8” axles, 7/8” rear and ¾” front tires, 1968 bodies.

 

1968 sports and coupe cars between April and August will have, among other things, anglewinder drive, slab drop arms, side pans, endbell or can drive D-can motors with 26 or 25 gauge wire, 1/8” axles, 7/8” rear and ¾” front tires, 1968 bodies.

 

1968 sports and coupe cars after August will have, among other things, anglewinder drive, slab drop arms, plumber hinges, side pans, endbell or can drive D-can motors with 26 or 25 gauge wire, 1/8” axles, 7/8” rear and ¾” front tires, 1968 bodies.

 

And the list goes on.  By now you should be getting the idea; vintage-style cars are built to look and perform like the originals did, but with all modern parts.  Putting some work into it to achieve a reasonable level of historically accurate technical detail is what gives the whole effort a sense of purpose – for me, anyway.

 

Summing it all up

 

Here’s a new approach to building vintage-style cars that neatly avoids the problem of rare, fragile, irreplaceable and ridiculously expensive vintage parts.

 

I will be building a series of vintage-style cars and posting pictures and descriptions.

 

If anyone else wants to participate and build their own vintage-style cars, feel free to post pictures and descriptions in this sub forum.

 

Questions, comments or constructive criticism and always welcome.


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#2 havlicek

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Posted 10 December 2016 - 07:01 PM

I eagerly await!

 

-john


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#3 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 10 December 2016 - 07:47 PM

Just an observation or thought that comes to mind looking at cars of this type.

 

The originals of these cars were built as state of the art and often built very quickly. Raced, then used for parts for the next hopefully better one. They were used in anger if you will in a war to be the best. I look at recreations of these cars and often they are more like jewelry with the precision and polish of the build and I know they will never see that give it all run the originals were built for.

 

 I love to look at the workmanship but somehow I also feel a little sad.


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#4 slotcarone

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 06:22 AM

The IRRA Jail Door class uses an idea similar to what you are talking about Steve. Of course we are using a modern motor for ease of purchase and to level the playing field. Here is one of the chassis I build for this class.

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#5 havlicek

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 06:48 AM

Eddie, I get what you're saying and can sorta relate.  On the other hand, these builds...whether absolutely period-correct or "VS" do a couple of things.  First, they serve as a history lesson, but they also illustrate the engineering that went into these designs.  ***The funny thing about all this is that, as a kid, I just thought these things looked cool.  I mean, all those nicely laid-out parallel (or not) pieces of rod, wire and tubing are eye-catching.  :)  Then, when you got your hands on one and started to see how they moved or flexed and realized that they weren't built to look cool, they were built to run fast and handle.  ***Now, I've come full circle and appreciate them as "art", almost like "industrial art", because the function and design of the things stands on it's own, even outside of the race track.  So, when someone restores/rebuilds say, an old Lotus that is never destined to be run hard in a race again, one that will never have oil and track dirt all over it, I'm cool with that.  It makes me imagine what it must have been like sitting in it and running at speed in a pack!

 

-john


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#6 havlicek

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 06:50 AM

Mike...that's a beauty of a chassis!

 

-john


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#7 slotcarone

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 07:22 AM


 

 

 

Mike...that's a beauty of a chassis!

 

-john

Thanks John! I have built probably 20 of these chassis over the past few years. My favorite class to race. I usually get beat by my own stuff though!


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#8 tonyp

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 08:02 AM

Katz is king of the jail doors!
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#9 John Streisguth

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 10:22 AM

HVR is holding a jail door enduro next month

 

And I love this concept, and how Steve has laid out the timeline of the development of the chassis and components. Looking forward to seeing some builds


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#10 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 10:56 AM

Mike,

 

That's a gorgeous chassis; neat, simple, elegant, no nonsense.  :good:

 

Retro Racing is carving out it's place in slot racing history too.  Someday some young kid who is Retro Racing right now might be building and promoting "Vintage-style" retro cars.  Stranger things have happened.

 

If you're king of the jail doors (like Tony says- Hi Tony!  :wave: ) Then that chassis deserves a drawing just like I do for other chassis and other builders.

 

Drop me a PM if you're interested.


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#11 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 12:06 PM

Just an observation or thought that comes to mind looking at cars of this type.

 

The originals of these cars were built as state of the art and often built very quickly. Raced, then used for parts for the next hopefully better one. They were used in anger if you will in a war to be the best. I look at recreations of these cars and often they are more like jewelry with the precision and polish of the build and I know they will never see that give it all run the originals were built for.

 

 I love to look at the workmanship but somehow I also feel a little sad.

 

Hi, Eddie,

 

Sad but true.  Pro-racing cars were weapons of war in a desperate arms-race.  Their pro-builders understood this, and properly treated them as such.

 

And, while it is also true that vintage-style cars may never be used for the same purpose as their prototypes, they are at very least intended to be slot racing history made into a physical reality you can experience, rather than just read about.

 

Come to think about it, this is a little bit like Jurassic Park.  I just hope it doesn't end up the same way...  :laugh2:


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#12 havlicek

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 03:10 PM

 

 

 

Thanks John! I have built probably 20 of these chassis over the past few years. My favorite class to race. I usually get beat by my own stuff though!

 

 

It shows Mike...oh...and by the way, don't look now, but Tony P just called you "King of the Jaildoors"!!!  :good:

 

-john


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#13 slotcarone

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Posted 11 December 2016 - 05:44 PM

What I found  interesting is back in January of 2013 I got an inquiry from none other than Mr Bob Emott himself asking about building him a JD chassis and putting the entire car together with a Noose body! :)


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#14 havlicek

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Posted 12 December 2016 - 08:17 AM

That's pretty danged cool Mike!

 

-john


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#15 Mbloes

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 04:13 PM

Steve, what parts are you finding scarce?  Here's my list:

 

16D endbells (most were melted)

Magnets

Drop arms

"Certain" front wheels

Orange donuts

Bodies (although a more recent pull would be indistinguishable once painted).

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Pans I can make.

Motor brackets exist.

Guides appear plentiful.


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#16 havlicek

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 06:30 AM

Steve, what parts are you finding scarce?  Here's my list:

 

16D endbells (most were melted)

Magnets

Drop arms

"Certain" front wheels

Orange donuts

Bodies (although a more recent pull would be indistinguishable once painted).

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Pans I can make.

Motor brackets exist.

Guides appear plentiful.

 

I would add, clean Mura A,B, older (Green Can)C end bells and hardware including buss bars and elephant ears.  These range from "out there but getting scarce and pricey" to pretty much gone.  Even when the end bell is found, and it's an A or B, if the bushing is shot, you either figure out a way to make one or find someone with machining capabilities. The can bushings in some cases are very difficult to find.  Even clean Green Cans are scarce.

 

Not sure which magnets Mike is referring to, but the correct long magnets for both the B and C Muras are scarce. (*Greg just came through for someone in this regard).

 

Even clean 26D end bells are getting scarce, especially the Champion ones with the pentroof hardware.  Even the "Tradeship" replacement end bells with the pentroof hardware don't seem to be around...but those melt just as easily as the original Mabuchi end bells.

 

Clean Mabuchi "anything" really at this point.  I guess the 36D stuff is still around, but only because people have less use for it, but the 36D Arco mags seem to have dried up from a time when they "seemed" plentiful several years back.

 

-john


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#17 SlotStox#53

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 08:26 PM

A lot of the original parts are drying up, or at least I'm not seeing anything pop up on epay (where I've collected a lot of my parts).

Second the rarity of A and b can parts, only B cans in complete cars, no motors/parts on their own :(

Really would love a better condition A can endbell & can bushing, plus several B can endbells. Any tips for replacing well worn B can endbell bushings John?

#18 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 10:28 PM

Mike, John and Paul,

 

You guys are all right on the mark, and you are making my job easy!  The fact that so many original vintage parts are getting harder and harder to find, and more expensive seemingly every time you look for them, is exactly why I am proposing not using them at all in "vintage-style" cars.

 

Save the rare and expensive vintage parts for your occasional rare and expensive vintage builds, and have fun building and running a whole stable full of vintage-style cars that look and perform like their historical equivalents - without being either rare or expensive.

 

The whole idea is to make the cars out of modern parts so when you crash them or blow them up or wear them out all you have to do is... get some more modern parts over the counter or over the Internet and rebuild them!

 

Anyone who has searched for weeks or months and paid an obscene amount of dollars on ebay for a 45 year old open arm that goes once or twice up the straight and then suffers total comm failure at 90,000 (or more) RPM should have no problem appreciating this idea.

 

After the holidays I will get some cars finished up so you can see what I'm talking about.


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#19 grooverunner

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 01:21 AM

Hi Steve,

I'm on board! Here's a picture of the chassis I'm building it's the same chassis that you did.It has .62 rails, drop arm is .62 brass I stamped it,
Bat pans are .30 brass as is motor mount.

The wire bender is great idea!

Thanks
Ken

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Ken  Hill

#20 SlotStox#53

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 12:53 PM

Looking great Ken! :D

What did you use to stamp the drop arm?
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#21 grooverunner

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 04:14 PM

Paul,

Just like this,a friend of mine made the die and I use the 1 ton arbor press.

Ken

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Ken  Hill

#22 SlotStox#53

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 04:21 PM

Superb :D Makes a neat looking drop arm, saw a similar die offered on epay a while back, should of grabbed it.

#23 MSwiss

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 05:41 PM

If coining wasn't a deal breaker, I could easily have my CNC brass guy make drop arms.

 

Holes wouldn't be a problem, although they would have to have a slight radius on each inside corner.


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#24 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 06:49 PM

That is "impressive" Ken  :laugh2:

 

I might be able to fashion a die like that, and then all I would need is a 1 ton arbor press...  :wacko2:

 

Slot car guys are endlessly inventive and innovative.  I love it!

 

Ken, why not start a separate topic in this sub forum for your  build?



#25 SlotStox#53

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Posted 22 December 2016 - 07:21 PM

If coining wasn't a deal breaker, I could easily have my CNC brass guy make drop arms.
 
Holes wouldn't be a problem, although they would have to have a slight radius on each inside corner.


Maybe coining wouldn't be an issue seeing as this is "vintage style"? So if you can't make/scratch it and don't want to afford that illusive "Nutley" windowed drop arm then modern alternatives I'd imagine would be fine :)

#26 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 12:17 AM

Mike,

 

Why would "coining" be a "deal-breaker"?  Does it have something to do with being difficult to manufacture, or might it be because it was not done that way back in the 60s and early 70s?  (Serious question)

 

Personally, I think Ken's solution is very clever, and very effective for the application at hand.  However, it's usability might become problematic for chassis representing December 1968 and later.   How are you going to mount the plumber hinges on the front end of a coined drop arm?

 

All that aside, if you were to have made, for a reasonable price, some drop arms that matched the 1" wide x 1/16" thick Cobra drop arms from late 1968 and also some that matched the "Team Nutley" 1-1/4" wide x .050" thick with window from the early 70s, well I would certainly buy a bunch of them!



#27 MSwiss

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 12:38 AM

I already have a nice coining fixture.

But, I never even thought about the plumber dilemma.

Let me run it by my machinist friend.

Maybe it's not that difficult to do the period correct forming.

Why kind of price would you be willing to pay?

Mike Swiss
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Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)

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#28 SlotStox#53

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 01:35 AM

Sure would be nice to buy new vintage drop arms, only a few originals left in the vault.

I know RGeo used to do a vintage drop arm forming tool out of 2 pieces of aluminum that you pressed together in a vise.

#29 John Streisguth

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 04:17 AM

Those old production drop arms were coined, but not with a circular die, it was straight across, which allowed for the plumber attachment.  Pictured below is an circa 1969-1970 production Cobra chassis (yes, that's a Champion Orange Picker endbell) that shows how it was done. The production Nutley etc arms were the same (I have one but it's packed away...can get to it later today).

 

Should be an easy job to form them.

 

IMG_0110 (1).jpg


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#30 tonyp

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 08:24 AM

The Nutley droparm was not coined. The tongue area was just bent for the offset


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#31 tonyp

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 08:26 AM

60b2797544b3b4904c4a9f0a5a3a6ed3.jpg


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"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

1965 "Evil Bucks Racer" Team
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American King track single lap world record holder & 40 minute total lap record
First IM Nationals Champion
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#32 Samiam

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 08:37 AM

Tony,

I like your style.

 

Old Skool for sure.


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#33 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 08:54 AM

Mike,

 

Here's part of a Cobra ad from the January, 1969 issue of Car Model:

 

6901CM13.jpg

 

As you can see, the 1/16" thick x 1" wide drop arm cost $0.95

 

 

Here's part of a Nutley Products ad from the July 06, 1969 issue of Model Racing Journal:

 

MRJ V1N15 p8.jpg

 

The .040" and .050" thick x 1-1/4" wide drop arms are priced at $1.25

 

Running this through several inflation calculators, the equivalent price for the Cobra drop arm today would be $6.25, and for the Nutley drop arms $8.22.

 

So to answer your question, I would consider $7.50 +/- $1 each to be a reasonable price.

 

If you can do better that would be great, but at any rate because we are here trying to get away from rare and expensive vintage parts, the price cannot logically be more than the average cost of a vintage drop arm... right?


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#34 old & gray

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 09:20 AM

Here's part of a Cobra ad from the January, 1969 issue of Car Model:

 

As you can see, the 1/16" thick x 1" wide drop arm cost $0.95


Running this through several inflation calculators, the equivalent price for the Cobra drop arm today would be $6.25,

 

Here's a RGEO 1" drop arm which verifies your cost estimate.

 

http://e-slotcar.com...e-050-rgeo-375/


Bob Schlain

#35 John Streisguth

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 09:29 AM

The Nutley droparm was not coined. The tongue area was just bent for the offset


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That should make it even easier to form


"Whatever..."

#36 SlotStox#53

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 11:25 AM

Here's a windowed Nutley drop arm with another one out of a steel center kit and one by PHAZEIII.

20161223_081819-1024x576.png
20161223_080508-1024x576.jpg 20161223_081253-1024x576.jpg
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#37 MSwiss

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 11:33 AM

Here's a RGEO 1" drop arm which verifies your cost estimate.
 
http://e-slotcar.com...e-050-rgeo-375/

No offense Bob, but along with it not being close to a Nutley windowed drop arm, I wouldn't/couldn't, out of clear conscience, sell something that looks like that.

 

(edit) Now that I'm on a regular computer, I confirmed it appears to be coined and the guide stop profile isn't symmetrical, left to right side. 


Mike Swiss
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#38 MSwiss

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 12:42 PM

Mike,
 
Here's part of a Cobra ad from the January, 1969 issue of Car Model:
 
attachicon.gif6901CM13.jpg
 
As you can see, the 1/16" thick x 1" wide drop arm cost $0.95
 
 
Here's part of a Nutley Products ad from the July 06, 1969 issue of Model Racing Journal:
 
attachicon.gifMRJ V1N15 p8.jpg
 
The .040" and .050" thick x 1-1/4" wide drop arms are priced at $1.25
 
Running this through several inflation calculators, the equivalent price for the Cobra drop arm today would be $6.25, and for the Nutley drop arms $8.22.
 
So to answer your question, I would consider $7.50 +/- $1 each to be a reasonable price.
 
If you can do better that would be great, but at any rate because we are here trying to get away from rare and expensive vintage parts, the price cannot logically be more than the average cost of a vintage drop arm... right?

The problem is back then there was a market for hundreds/thousands.

If there was still a market for a 1,000, I could probably talk JK into doing it and they would be $4 or $5.

But unfortunately, the market is for probably about 3 dozen, tops.

CNC milling them, I can't see them being under $10.

Maybe I can find a cheaper way.

Mike Swiss
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)

Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder (pointless era - LOL)
 
Chicagoland Raceway
17B West Ogden Ave
Westmont, IL 60559
(708) 203-8003
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Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516. Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#39 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 01:54 PM

Mike,

 

Sadly, I think you are right; the market is simply not big enough to support even a minimal order.

 

However, at very least the cat is out of the bag and people are thinking about ways to get this done.

 

For the record, here are some photos of "Cobra", Cobra equivalent, and "Nutley" drop arms:

 

Cobra and REHCO DA.jpg

 

Above is a 3/4" wide Cobra drop arm.  The one in the back is a 1" wide REHCO drop arm, which was patterned after and is very similar to the Cobra.  These drop arms are 1/16" thick, and were popular from mid 1968 through early 1969.

 

Team Nutley 050 DA.jpg

 

This is a 1-1/4" wide "Team Nutley" drop arm.  These drop arms were available in .040" and .050" thicknesses.  This one is .050".

 

Team Nutley 050 DA Closeup.jpg

 

Here's a close-up of the guide tongue.  The two front edges of the drop arm on either side of the guide tongue was an ideal place to locate 3/32" plumber hinge tubes.

 

Aside from the Cobra drop arm being 1/16" (.063") thick and the Team Nutley drop arms being thinner at .050" and .040", there was another major difference in the way they were made.  The guide tongue offset on the cobra drop arm was about 5/32" (.156") to fit thicker guides such as the ubiquitous Cox guide (now very rare and expensive).  The offset on the Nutley drop arms was closer to 1/16" (.063") to fit the newer (and now universal) Jet Flag.  Like this:

 

Side view Cobra DA.jpg

Side view Nutley DA.jpg

 

In my opinion, any and all drop arms made for vintage-style cars would do better to have the smaller (ie: Nutley) offset of 1/16" (.063").

 

The reason is we (or at least I) will not be using rare and expensive ($10 to $15 or more each) Cox guides to build my cars.  Instead, I will use (cheap and plentiful) modern guides I can get anywhere.  If I happen to want my modern guide to "look like" a Cox guide, all I have to do is cut it down:

 

Before and After.jpg

 

Here's what it would look like compared to a real Cox guide:

 

Cox vs Faux.jpg

 

Close enough for vintage-style work...  :D

 


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#40 MSwiss

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 02:10 PM

Paul, Steve,

Thanks for the nice pics.

 

On the Nutley style, would it be preferable to be solid or have a hole?


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Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516. Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#41 tonyp

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 02:27 PM

Hole was the most popular.
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#42 Rick

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 03:04 PM

I've made some re-pop parts in the past. The guide tongue/drop arm, would be no problem to make and form. Forget the inflation calculator for brass bits, it just is way off. The price of materials alone is higher than the actual packaged piece(s) in the 60's. I trust it is because of the price of brass in comparison more than other factors....

 

pic of some bits, MIdwest guide, Dynamic and body mounts,

 

 

Attached Images

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#43 Samiam

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 04:50 PM

I scour ebay every night looking for brass bits. Especially drop arms. But I think the number of finger burners out there are limited.

 

I would commit to at least ten drop arms. I have plenty of pans.   


Sam Levitch
 
When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail.
Support your local raceway, or you won't have one.
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Support your "Local Racer."
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#44 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 05:59 PM

Mike,

 

You're welcome... and thanks for the consideration.  :hi:



#45 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 06:07 PM

Rick,

 

You wrote: "The guide tongue/drop arm, would be no problem to make and form."

 

This would to be a very small market, but among this small group I have no doubt the .050" thick Team Nutley" style drop arm would be the most popular, especially if it has that big rectangular hole in the center...  :good:


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#46 dc-65x

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 09:02 PM

Here's a drop arm from back in the day for low profile guides like the Jet flag or Dynamic Low Profile:

 

DSCN4733.JPG

 

Are there guide tongues available today to make up something similar with the addition of some sheet brass?


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#47 SlotStox#53

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 09:12 PM

Professor motor has a bunch of guide tongues from Cobra just like that Parma piece Rick :)

Other route would be the modern spring steel guide tongues like the Turning Man tongue from Duffy Heavy Metal Industries.

#48 MSwiss

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 09:23 PM

Here's a drop arm from back in the day for low profile guides like the Jet flag or Dynamic Low Profile:
 
attachicon.gifDSCN4733.JPG
 
Are there guide tongues available today to make up something similar with the addition of some sheet brass?

There are plenty of flat steel tongues available that are used mostly for Retro.

Using a separate steel tongue is how most of the Tottenham chassis, the UK Retro racers run, are made.

And to be honest, they stick out like a sore thumb, especially the real ornate ones, that look like a violin.

Mike Swiss
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Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)

Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder (pointless era - LOL)
 
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Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516. Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#49 MSwiss

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 09:47 PM

Great looking chassis but the guide tongue looks way out of place.

 

AC_Emott002.jpg

 

AC_Emott001.jpg


Mike Swiss
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Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder (pointless era - LOL)
 
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#50 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 10:06 PM

The PM website indicates they have 11 of the Cobra guide tongues left. A few years back, I got some similsr brass tongues by Slot Car Distributors in England.


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