Jump to content




Photo

JK C43 Aeolos chassis discussion


  • Please log in to reply
40 replies to this topic

#1 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,307 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 19 January 2017 - 12:11 AM

Let use this thread to share recent builds, tips and tricks for JK's new Chassis, the C43 Aeolos.

I'll start with the first thing I did which was checking how flat it was straight from the box. I'm happy to report I only spent around 10 seconds making a minor tweak to get it pretty much spot on.

The guide tongue needed a great bit of effort to get it bent a few degrees up. While I strained my way through this process I unfortunately tweaked my wrist a bit. This is definitely a testament to the quality of the stainless used in this chassis.

The pan movement built into this chassis is quite dramatic. It remains to be seen if this is a good thing or if the addition of pan restrictions are in order.

My first build was destined to be a Group 10 GTP for use on our ultra fast 220 foot Engleman. I did not have a motor prepped so I had to build something. I have a very large surplus of Kelly D-cans and Blackmax mags we no longer race so I built up a sweet G2 with Kelly handwound 16d arm.

I use Kelly bushings on all my builds. If you plan on using Kelly bushings please note that if you forgo the use of upright bracing your heading for a stuck axle. Kelly bushings have a wide footprint and are easily seized with a hard enough wallshot.

I mounted a used Redfox Starfighter Long, some of my homemade treated tires, a redfox guide and anxiously waited for my next trip to Speedzone to crack off some laps.

My first few laps quickly showed me I over shot with hub diameter but ran very fast laps non the less. I was able to get deep into the 4.6's within the first 10 laps. My 2015 Nat's winning Group 10 GTP qualified in the 4.7's so I'm very happy with he results so far. With proper tuning I expect this car to break into the 4.5's .

In the next week I'll swap a known good motor from a fast X25 car that's race prepped and setup impeccably and move it to this chassis. I'll spend a few hours tuning it with rubber, bodys, and bite bars to see if there is any improvement with the use of this chassis.

Attached Images

  • Screenshot_2017-01-19-00-17-46.png

  • Tim Neja and tazman like this
David Parrotta




#2 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,307 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 19 January 2017 - 12:29 AM

Some more pics

Attached Images

  • Screenshot_2017-01-19-00-27-18.png

David Parrotta

#3 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,307 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 19 January 2017 - 12:31 AM

I expect this pic will bring some motor building discussion to the thread.

Attached Images

  • Screenshot_2017-01-19-00-31-57.png

  • Tim Neja and Danny Zona like this
David Parrotta

#4 Zippity

Zippity

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Banned
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,278 posts
  • Joined: 05-March 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wellington, New Zealand

Posted 19 January 2017 - 04:54 AM

Why are you not using the JK supplied motor brace?


  • fohoover likes this
Ron Thornton

#5 swodem

swodem

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,176 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 19 January 2017 - 05:12 AM

Yep that's a big air gap and f-all winds, what class is it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve Meadows


#6 Danny Zona

Danny Zona

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,534 posts
  • Joined: 27-July 12
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Holly Hill (Daytona Beach), FL

Posted 19 January 2017 - 08:10 AM

Big air gap. No way that will work. Hahaha
  • John C Martin and CoastalAngler1 like this
Test, test, test and go test some more.
You're never fast enough!!! 💯

Preparation leads to separation.

Success is never owned but rented and rent is due everyday.

KELLY RACING 😎

#7 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,307 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 19 January 2017 - 08:51 AM

Lol that's a kelly 16d arm. >.600" long stack, .518 diameter, 70 turns of 30 gauge.
  • John C Martin likes this
David Parrotta

#8 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,307 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 19 January 2017 - 08:53 AM

The brace flung across the floor when I reached for it and these Z bends work just as well.

Our rules allow 3" of piano wire bracing.
David Parrotta

#9 Fast Freddie

Fast Freddie

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 723 posts
  • Joined: 04-March 08

Posted 19 January 2017 - 10:50 AM

Dave do you think the big wire passing through the front wire loom interferes with the movement of the front cross wire?  I also noticed that the pan horns on your chassis appear to be sitting on the out riggers, have you tried the chassis set the recommended way as well?  Which way do you think works best on the big track?  You seem to like the rear brace mounted high, have you tried it the other way and if so why did you change?  I always thought the weakest area of the uprights was at the bend, but I race GP12s and most all the braces are high the only difference is the uprights are soldered and not bent.  By the way Danny also convinced me that big air gaps work very well, even with big diameter arms.


Fred Younkin

#10 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,307 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 19 January 2017 - 11:56 AM

The wire is lightly touching the front bar. I'm not sure if this is causing an issue but I'll try alternative routing as part of my testing.

For my initial test I built the car as JK intended it to be run so the pan is not touching the wings. There is maybe a .010 to .015 gap between the outriggers and the wings. On our high speed Engleman I've found that minimal pan movement is best.

I stopped mounting the motor mount brace flat a few years ago. Back to back testing showed faster lap times with a angled and stiffer motor mount.

The weakest area of the uprights is the bends. The forces exerted during a wallshot can only be absorbed by one upright if the brace is mounted with the cross peice down. With it mounted up and even with the axle both uprights share the forces.

I don't always run big gaps. Some arms work great with tight holes some dont. As with everything slotcar if you want to be fast you have to test test test.
  • Tim Neja, fohoover and Samiam like this
David Parrotta

#11 swodem

swodem

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,176 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 19 January 2017 - 07:20 PM

The weakest area of flex at the back (affecting the axle) is the flat chassis section between the uprights.
Squeeze the uprights towards each other and see....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • MarkH likes this

Steve Meadows


#12 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,307 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 19 January 2017 - 11:11 PM

Try to squeeze the uprights together with my brace method ;)
  • Eddie Fleming and swodem like this
David Parrotta

#13 swodem

swodem

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,176 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 20 January 2017 - 09:44 PM

Try to squeeze the uprights together with my brace method ;)

 

Yes of course, you have created a box section, very strong

 

my point was related to the earlier comment  "The weakest area of the uprights is the bends."


Steve Meadows


#14 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,307 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 21 January 2017 - 01:03 AM

The area between the uprights is more flexible then Id like it to be. I have noted the the use of the stock motor mount eliminates a great deal of the flex.
  • Rob Voska likes this
David Parrotta

#15 Robin

Robin

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 14 posts
  • Joined: 21-May 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 21 January 2017 - 02:43 PM

 

just my 2 cents

Attached Images

  • 20170118_1553061.jpg

  • race301 and Rob Voska like this

Robin Boer

 

Races @mrtu Fb:mrtu
 


#16 Robin

Robin

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 14 posts
  • Joined: 21-May 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:48 PM

++

Attached Images

  • 20170118_1552591.png
  • 20170121_2145481.jpg

  • Tim Neja and John Luongo like this

Robin Boer

 

Races @mrtu Fb:mrtu
 


#17 swodem

swodem

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,176 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:21 PM

Why the orange tube?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve Meadows


#18 Robin

Robin

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 14 posts
  • Joined: 21-May 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 21 January 2017 - 04:26 PM

Just a tweak i am trying to get the chassis more "stiff"


Robin Boer

 

Races @mrtu Fb:mrtu
 


#19 Robin

Robin

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 14 posts
  • Joined: 21-May 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 22 January 2017 - 04:23 PM

one thing i did notice is that if you do not properly grind, clean and pre coat parts with tin. They will just fall off...

Robin Boer

 

Races @mrtu Fb:mrtu
 


#20 swodem

swodem

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,176 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 23 January 2017 - 04:23 AM

Acid Flux mate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve Meadows


#21 Rob Voska

Rob Voska

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,072 posts
  • Joined: 12-April 08
  • Gender:Male

Posted 23 January 2017 - 06:49 AM

Then a tooth brush, warm water & soap.



#22 Robin

Robin

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 14 posts
  • Joined: 21-May 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 23 January 2017 - 09:34 AM

did the acid flux but i think forgot to clean it for grease after the ruffing/grinding of the surfaces.


Robin Boer

 

Races @mrtu Fb:mrtu
 


#23 swodem

swodem

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,176 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 23 January 2017 - 01:02 PM

I don't think you need to rough/grind any surfaces. Let the acid flux do its job for at least 10seconds, use good solder and hot iron with a chisel tip that has some mass, and will be good and strong


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve Meadows


#24 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,274 posts
  • Joined: 02-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:New Boston, NH

Posted 23 January 2017 - 01:23 PM

If those chassis are made from a stainless steel, as most of the later JK's are, make sure your acid flux is compatible for working on SS. 


Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#25 swodem

swodem

    Checkered Flag in Hand

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,176 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 23 January 2017 - 04:21 PM

Bill are you saying some are not?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve Meadows






Electric Dreams Online Shop