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Scratchbuilt rail thrashing


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#1 Lone Wolf

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 12:21 PM

I know I've been posting a lot of junk lately but I am really trying to clean up a lot of projects here.

 

This is a rail I've had on the shelf for years. It was looking rather forlorn and did not run. I am going to see if I can get it done before SAL Tuesday. The thrash is on, something Uncle Fred can relate to I'm sure.

 

Here are the first shots from about an hour ago. 

 

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And here she is disassembled. Man, this thing is rough. The endbell is gone but I am trying to save everything else including the questionable arm.

 

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I gave it a wash in Super Clean and it it is now in the tumbler. I give an update in a few hours. 


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Joe Lupo





#2 Pablo

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 02:23 PM

Bad to the Bone, Joe :heart: It has tons of class. Let me know if you lack any parts.


Paul Wolcott

#3 Lone Wolf

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 04:12 PM

Thanks Pablo, I think I'm good on the parts but thanks again for the offer.

 

Here as far as I'll probably get today. Three hours in the tumbler. Had to re-solder a lot of joints and do a bit of straightening. All four wheels cleaned and the rears sanded on the outer edge to hide some defects. The rears are AJ's silicones and the fronts are Monogram tires on Revell wheels, 1/32 scale. Axles cleaned and threads chased. NOS Cox braids added to the Dynamic guide. Lastly, I had to solder a new tab on the can and then painted it Chrysler blue. Theres a bracket at the bearing end that serves no purpose but it was soldered so I left it.

 

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Maybe later or tomorrow I'll do the motor.

 

Thanks for looking. 


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Joe Lupo


#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 06:18 PM

That's a good looking scratchbuilt drag chassis, Joe. Is it built from brass rod, piano wire, or a combination of both? Not that one is needed, but did it ever run a body? Someone did a great job building this car. Love that pinion gear, it would be hard to duplicate.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#5 Lone Wolf

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 06:41 PM

Thanks, Bill.  

 

I believe this is made of solid nickel plated solid rod although I'm no expert here. It still retained it's silver finish even after tumbling. Maybe it's not plated, maybe the wire is silver through and through. I am open to suggestions. The only "brass" part I see is the front axle tube. The only thing a magnet sticks to is the screws. 

 

I have other scratch built rails that are very nicely done but someone really spent a lot of time on this as you have noted. I don't see any traces of a body. This came from an Ebay lot a while back so I don't know the history. I was thinking of sticking some kind of driver in there. Not sure what will fit as the crown will be in direct contact with his family jewels  :shok:


Joe Lupo


#6 Lone Wolf

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 07:40 PM

Well, I started to put the motor together and it was too far gone. The bearing retainer in the can was broken and the arm was dead.

 

I went to the pile and found this stuff. 

 

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I used the magnets from the original motor as they were tape shimmed.

 

I guess the arm is a Parma? 

 

The endbell looks heavy duty.

 


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#7 SlotStox#53

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 08:36 PM

Sweet looking dragster frame Joe!

Appears to be a Parma super 16D arm you've found in the parts box.

#8 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 January 2017 - 08:44 PM

The arm is a S16D.  It's 60 turns of 28 gage wire which is a bit hotter than what you originally had. The manufacturer is probably Parma or Slotworks. Lots of both are still around. You'll likely find this armature has a larger diameter than your first, so the original magnets might be problematic.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#9 mdiv

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 01:57 AM

Nice looking rail, Joe!

Are you going to be bracket racing her?

Mike


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#10 Lone Wolf

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 10:33 AM

Mike, after years of bracket racing a "real" car I have no desire to race toy cars competitively. Too much crying and so forth  :bad:

 

Well, I'm calling it done. I drilled the can for screws to hold the endbell as the clips were gone. In the interest of hi tech I chucked the arm in a drill and removed some of the green stuff. I also lightly dressed the magnets. It sounds strong and I don't think it will be problematic as it will only run for a few seconds at a time. I like the chrome can as it matches the frame. Everything turns extremely smooth as there are bearings out back and it has a nice gear mesh. I also added some 60 year old speaker wire for leads just to stay in the spirit of things. Now to see what she will turn.

 

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Whatta' you think. Should I do this heap next?

 

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Joe Lupo


#11 SlotStox#53

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 10:53 AM

Came out great, as for the next rail...definitely :D Is that big brass rod or tubing on that rail?

You've certainly got an eye for cool dragsters Joe.

#12 Pablo

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 10:55 AM

"Should I do this heap next?"

Go for it Joe - as fast as you work it'll only take a few hours :sun_bespectacled:


Paul Wolcott

#13 Lone Wolf

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 02:57 PM

Pablo, it's like Overhaulin' except I'm the only crew member.

 

You probably think I'm making some of this up but I really did do these in the last two days. This one today.

 

Disassembled to take stock. I cleaned the chassis with my wife's toothbrush and some Brasso. Did not want to remove the motor as it was held in by braid  :shok:

 

I saw remnants of something that that was soldered to the back but was long gone. Went to the scrap pile and cooked up a push bar. Wheels were cleaned. Rear tires were harder than finding a Trump voter in Frisco. Replaced them with some meaty Graupners I had laying around. Threads were stripped so I had to add knockoffs on the outside. Fronts are freewheeling. I added some bullets here to replace the unsightly original nuts. New leads added as well. Lubed up and ready to run. Does not sound too powerful. I hope it breaks the 3 second barrier  :laugh2:

 

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#14 Pete L.

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 08:43 PM

Joe,

 

 I just found this thread, really cool cars to say the least !!! :good: :good: :good:


Peter J. Linszky

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#15 hiline2

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 07:07 PM

and your wife allowed you using her toothbrush??? :shok:


Paul Bass

#16 don.siegel

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Posted 25 February 2017 - 06:04 AM

A couple of nice Rods Joe, and good restoration work. That first one is a great find and looks tough! 

 

Curious to see what that second one does: I've got a few of those motors, which I assume are model train motors, sort of in the Lindsay mode, without being Lindsays! (similar brush setup in any case). 3 seconds might be pushing it... 

 

Theoretical question: was it the tumbling that undid the solder joints, or did they come undone by themselves? I don't have a tumbler, but always wondered what effect it would have on these kinds of frames. 

 

Thanks, 

Don 



#17 Lone Wolf

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Posted 04 March 2017 - 04:50 PM

OK, sorry I did not see the questions etc. Thanks for the positives. 

 

I took the first rail to the track. With the silicones it just had too much grip. Even with the so called wheelie bars it just popped out of the slot at like 1 foot. I am going to add a "Moon" tank weight out front and see what happens.

 

Paul, it's OK, my wife only has one tooth so she never wears out a brush  :crazy:

 

Don, the joints were loose prior to tumbling. The tumbling is actually quite gentle. Never really had anything come apart. DO NOT BUY ONE as you will quickly become addicted  :dash2:

I guess the reason the motor was slow was because the arm was near dead and then went completely dead before I could make a pass. I have a partial motor here with a rewound and epoxied arm I am going to install. Don't know if it's any good until I install it. I will advise when I get to it. 


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