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VFC Charger body mounting


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#1 Jeff Bonanno

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 06:31 PM

Still a little confused on the mounting for this body LOL. I did race it once and the car was great but because the fronts and rears are blocking the body from going side to side I'm thinking that this is hindering the car from being better as far as handling and speed is concerned?

 
Perhaps the body needs to be mounted higher and little more needs to be cut off for tires to clear?






#2 Jeff Bonanno

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 06:32 PM

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#3 Noose

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 06:45 PM

You can cut the wheel wells higher. Front has to have .210" from top to top of wheel well.
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#4 Jeff Bonanno

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 06:47 PM

How much does the rear have to have from top to top?



#5 mgerbetz

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 07:04 PM

Good job do far Jeff. You can always take more off, but ya can't put it back on ! Measure twice cut once.
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Michael Gerbetz

#6 Noose

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 07:23 PM

How much does the rear have to have from top to top?


If you mount it with about 5/32s below the door line you can get .210 easily in the front and around .320 in the rear and be perfectly legal and your car will work just fine.

fe471cefb9066ffbeef88424a5662ca3.jpg


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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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#7 Jeff Bonanno

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 07:53 PM

Thanks Noose, appreciate that!  :victory:



#8 Noose

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:09 PM

No problem


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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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#9 John C Martin

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 03:39 PM

That ain't gonna keep that rear tire from rubbing. Looks like either chassis has a little to much side to side in the pan movement ..or body needs raising in rear slightly or narrow rear width..

#10 Noose

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 03:43 PM

John my rear tires did not rub. This mounting does work.


Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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#11 James Grandi

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 04:21 PM

Alternatively, I've seen a few chassis make use of running body flex limiters - wire uprights soldered toward the outer edge of the pans, to keep the body from being able to shift over that much. Some pretty successful chassis have used them in stock car, pretty easy to make and test out for oneself
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#12 Cap Henry

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 04:52 PM

Looks like at the last Retro East race all the podium cars had body limiters

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#13 Noose

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 05:18 PM

I have used them many times


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#14 Jeff Bonanno

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 05:26 PM

Alternatively, I've seen a few chassis make use of running body flex limiters - wire uprights soldered toward the outer edge of the pans, to keep the body from being able to shift over that much. Some pretty successful chassis have used them in stock car, pretty easy to make and test out for oneself

any pictures of these?



#15 Noose

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 05:55 PM

Just pieces of thin piano wire soldered on the pans bent up about a half inch




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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
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#16 old & gray

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 06:06 PM

At the arrows:

 

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Bob Schlain

#17 Noose

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 06:09 PM

Right. Now Bob chose to run a narrower front track and lower cut whelk wells so they were a must. I have used much thinner wire.


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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"

"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#18 Jeff Bonanno

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 06:38 PM

Ohhhhh I see, thanks guys.bi think I'll tryout the body limiter :).

#19 John C Martin

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Posted 06 February 2017 - 10:07 PM

John my rear tires did not rub. This mounting does work.

Noose not your body ...meant Jeffs body...
Parma body clips work great for the body limiters ,,not much use for those anymore ..I put a tight curl at the end so they don't puncture thru..
I Leave a small amount of play ,,not tight against the sides..
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#20 Jeff Bonanno

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 12:44 PM

Thanks John, I'm going to try the body limiter route. Going to give it a shot :). Thanks for the tips, really appreciate it from everyone.

#21 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 07:40 AM

Once you finally settle in on a body that works to your satisfaction and is mounted to your liking,use that body as a master to the next bodies you cut.What I mean is,take the interior out,straighten any bends or kinks remove all tape ,clean off any oil,and slide it tightly into a new body and clip it together with alligator clips and either mark the new body with a sharpie or just trim the new body with the scissors. You should also lightly poke a body pin through the old body but just push hard enough to make a mark on the new body without piercing through it. Those will be you reference marks for pin location. Your new body will be pinned either under or above those marks depending on weather you put the new body onto the old body over it or under it.Keep in mind over it adds about a tenth of an inch higher and under it adds about a tenth of an inch lower.The same thing  happens when your trimming the body ,over adds a tenth and under adds a tenth. This is how I can replicate my bodys fast and easy.....


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