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An FT36D is born


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#1 havlicek

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 05:03 PM

...from an older 36D.  I have a couple of these older 36D motors, the ones with no can mounting option, and the blank rear end with no magnet stop tabs.  These ones use magnet stop "dimples" pressed into the rear of the can sides, and of course the end bells for these had the brushes riding directly on the plastic.  Less than optimal, even for the original mild winds these things had...much less the likes of the later "3V" arms from (I think) Classic.  To make matters worse, the ball-bushing was gone.

 

IMG_2001_zpsstpake7b.jpg

So what's a poor-boy gonna do?  Hey...no problem.  I know a guy who can make up gizmos, gadgets and thingamabobs!  So I removed the original rotating bushing carrier and had at it.  I made up a solid bushing adapter, this time one that would sit flush to the inside of the can for as much room down there as possible, and on the outside would include a groove for C-clip mounting.

To fit inside that, I needed a bushing for the weird size shaft these motors use.  I took a worn 6MM x 2MM Mura oilite bushing which was too sloppy to work on a 2MM shaft and reamed it out to fit the FT36D shaft.  I also thinned-out the very thick flange, and epoxied it "flange-side-out"...just because it made truing the bushing to the rest of the motor a little less fidgety.  Because I'm paranoid, I made sure the new oilite isn't going anywhere.  Now, instead of sloppy, it's a lovely close-but-not-binding fit..  I just had to clean up some of the solder that found it's way to the outside, and the look is pretty "factory".
 

IMG_2002_zpsouzrh4h0.jpg

Inside, this all sits flush...actually ever-so-slightly less than flush.  I love it when a plan comes together! :D

IMG_2003_zpso5hsjy4a.jpg

Of course, the best part is how smooth an arm spins in the setup.  After a while doing these things, there's a certain looseness to even an NOS Mabuchi...especially the big boys, with all that rotating mass.  You spin this arm and it feels like a proper slot car motor.  Watta concept!

Now I'll have to look at this thing and let it tell me where it wants to go, but I have a nice new end bell and am confident it will be a smooth motor that will benefit from this detail.  A bit of prep work and I can send this can over to "the paint shop"   :D


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John Havlicek




#2 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 05:59 PM

One alternative that might come in handy in the future, would be to keep a length of bearing bronze rod around & turn whatever you want, when needed. Mine came from KY or OH, but OnlineMetals.com sells both solid & hollow rod of it by the foot.


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#3 havlicek

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 06:57 PM

Yep, bearing bronze is a *possible* way to go, but people need to be meticulous about oiling that stuff, so it's less desireable.  I also looked at oilite rod, and that's ridiculously costly and would only be a last resort, so neither is really on my radar Bill.


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#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 07:17 PM

I've never had a problem remembering to oil slot car motors. It might not be the "ideal" motor bearing material, but it works.


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#5 havlicek

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 07:43 PM

I've never had a problem remembering to oil slot car motors. It might not be the "ideal" motor bearing material, but it works.

 

Well, if I were sending all my motors to you Bill, then it would be fine :)  Over and under oiling motors is a common issue.  With solid bronze bearings, it becomes even more critical.  


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John Havlicek

#6 Geary Carrier

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 01:36 AM

Hi John,

 

What kind of reamer did you use on the oilite bushing?

 

I imagine it would be easy to smear the walls of the new hole which would  block the flow of oil to the motor shaft.

 

 

Thanks,

g


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#7 havlicek

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 06:43 AM

Hi John,

 

What kind of reamer did you use on the oilite bushing?

 

I imagine it would be easy to smear the walls of the new hole which would  block the flow of oil to the motor shaft.

 

 

Thanks,

g

 

Hi Geary,

 

     It's actually not a reamer at all!  I have several reamers I got for opening up coms for the larger shaft, and even though they "should" be the right size, they are still a smidge too small.  I found a diamond burr in my "pile-o-stuff" that's exactly the right size.  I drilled the bushing close and then finished it off with the burr.  Fits perfectly!


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John Havlicek

#8 Geary Carrier

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 02:44 PM

Thank you John,

 

g


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Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#9 havlicek

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 04:12 PM

You're welcome Geary.  I got tired of ordering reams (oversize/undersize) and luckily the bur worked beautifully.  Actually, it works even better chucked in the lathe!


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John Havlicek

#10 havlicek

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 08:29 PM

Back on this build, I got in the color today so I layed some paint down.  This time it's one of the VHT "anodized" colors, specifically blue.  They also make a red and a purple, and like their other high temp coatings, it's rated for intermittent temps up to 550F.  This stuff is very cool.  It's really a transparent coating that, when applied over shiny metal does result in a unique finish that looks a lot like anodized metal.  It's very high gloss and the finished coating seems durable.  It sprays differently from both the other solid VHT colors as well as most rattle-can paints.  A light coat is almost "not there", so you have to not be so timid and worry about runs...you need to really lay this stuff on there.  After I figured out what was going on, I took a deep breath and went for it.  When I say the stuff is transparent, I'm not kidding and any even minor flaws on the base metal will show.  Even so, it's a unique, and very attractive look for a slot car motor!IMG_2005%20copy_zpsej74naef.jpg

 

This old girl has come a long way from this:

IMG_2001_zpsstpake7b.jpg

 

-john

 


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John Havlicek

#11 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 10:08 PM

She looks good in that blue party dress.


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#12 havlicek

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 07:13 AM

Thanks Eddie!


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#13 Kim Lander

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 04:34 PM

Man that blue looks good.


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#14 havlicek

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 05:21 PM

Thanks Kim...I like the color too!  More on this, the request here was for "TORQUE", so I did my super-secret, extra-special, "stump-puller" wind, leaving the stack full-length...minus the fiber end-spacers of course.  The arm is "dual-shaft", so the motor can go either end bell or can drive.

IMG_2006_zpszemjyirj.jpg

 

Now I have some shims to fab-up after I check to see how much I can close-up the hole, then it's on to end bell work.


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#15 olescratch

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 05:58 PM

That is just one awesome paint job!  Really a brand of paint to give a try.  What's the super torque wind?


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John Stewart

#16 havlicek

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 06:15 PM

Thanks John.  On the wind, all I can say is that it's a #28awg wind.  Guys Like Mike Swiss have actually figured out the winds when I've said what gauge wire I used...but I'm sworn to secrecy.

 

-john


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#17 Samiam

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 07:03 PM

John,

 

That arm loaded in that cool blue can is 'da bomb. :bomb: 

 

You laid those winds down so neat I'm going to try counting the turns. I'll PM my guess.


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#18 Half Fast

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 08:20 PM

That ought to keep you occupied Sam. Remember to take you shoes off so you won't lose track. :)

 

Cheers


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#19 havlicek

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 08:56 PM

Sam was off...by quite a wide margin!


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#20 Samiam

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 09:08 PM

I ran out of toes. :wacko2:


Sam Levitch
 
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#21 olescratch

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Posted 03 March 2017 - 01:01 AM

I finally asked a question that you wouldn't answer lol!  So there are still "some" secrets in the mix!  Thanks for the answers that you have given, looking forward to some more do-dads from ya.


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John Stewart

#22 havlicek

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Posted 03 March 2017 - 07:01 AM

Hi John,

 

     You know, a LOT of this stuff is a little strange.  Many of these winds are based on arbitrary and often old specs.  When I say "arbitrary", I mean that I sometimes wonder where they came from.  65-70 turns of #30 wire is fine, but you can over and under that for different reasons and on different armatures.  50T of #29...same thing.  38T of #27...again, same thing.  Then too, these winds are often used on wildly varying stack sizes and lengths.  There was a time way back when, that "people" (  :D  ) would just pick a wire gauge and shmoosh as much of that size wire on an armature as they could to come up with a "hot rewind".  I'm guilty of all of that, but my scope has narrowed a little over time seeing how these things work...or don't work.  ***Of course I understand that, if a motor MUST have a certain wind because someone asks for that wind or because there's a "spec", then you gotta do what you gotta do.  When that isn't the case, then you have a LOT of leeway in choosing a wind.


John Havlicek

#23 wbugenis

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Posted 03 March 2017 - 08:09 AM

John,

 

I'm counting seven layers of wire. Top layer has 5 turns.

 

In a pure "log stacking" wind, this will give a 56 turns  (5 turns + 6t + 7t + 8t + 9t + 10t + 11t = 56 turns).

 

Is this what you were aiming for?

 

Also can you say a little on how you do the transition from one layer to the next?

 

Bill


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William Bugenis

#24 havlicek

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Posted 03 March 2017 - 08:48 AM

Hi Bill,

 

     You're VERY close, so I'll say you got it!  I'll be happy to talk about the transitions (*or what I call "turnarounds").  I have to head out for work right now and will hit this when I get back.  For now, I DIDN'T do as much wire as would fit on the first layer.  I did one turn less, but I also prefer to "back up" each layer when I can back at the shaft to help prevent the coils from falling apart and give the coils more structural stability, so that changes things.  If you simply "
stack logs", each successive layer winds up further and further away from both the crown and the shaft/com.  On a 4-layer coil, that's not so bad, but on a 6-layer coil the whole thing can collapse.  Then too, back at the com, you can' t necessarily always "step back a half".  When you try these, you'll find that sometimes towards the top, and at the shaft-end of the coils, you have to "step back a whole", if that makes sense.  Anyway, the wind is 52/28!

 

-john


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#25 olescratch

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Posted 03 March 2017 - 01:07 PM

John, that only created more questions in my mind.  Do you keep track of what works and what doesn't to avoid repeating the ones that don't?  Time to write a book on the subject, I'll need a copy lol!   


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