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Bud's Ferrari 330 P4


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#26 Geary Carrier

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 10:25 AM

Got to love the smell of Brass and Steel in the morning...


Yes, to be sure, this is it...





#27 Half Fast

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 01:24 PM

When I see these repros of old chassis I am glad Retro racing only allows inline. No way could I ever duplicate the wire bending prowess of builders such as Pablo and others here.

 

Cheers


Bill Botjer

Faster then, wiser now.

The most dangerous form of ignorance is not knowing that you don't know anything!

 

 

 
 

#28 bluecars

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 02:10 PM

SWEET! Way to good for BUD. :laugh2: :sun_bespectacled:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#29 Pablo

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 03:56 PM

I checked the balance of the spur gear simply by using the installed ball bearings.

It was heavy on the set screw side so I changed the stock screw to a Koford Gold Billet hollow, and it did the trick :)

 

Ready for motor and body

 

IMG_5375.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#30 havlicek

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 06:43 AM

ah...I see where those #28's are going, and it's a very pretty place indeed!  :D


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John Havlicek

#31 Pablo

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 08:52 AM

The jig motor liked it :)  By using the exact can and EB as the (real) motor I was able to get the wire pieces in real snug.

In fact, my plan for the can end motor brace is to solder a piece of .047 wire between the rail and motor right under the can bushing.


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Paul Wolcott

#32 Pablo

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 07:48 PM

Bud is a much better painter than me, but I did the deed anyway.

Paints are a blend of Faskolor red/Model Master Transparent red, backed with Model Master white

 

IMG_5390.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#33 Humbolt

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 08:04 PM

Nice work Pablo, looks great
Paul Fahey

#34 Pablo

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 08:21 PM

Thanks Paul :)

 

Body trimmed, holes punched, all intake areas dressed with black screen stickers.

I found a nice driver but he needs an interior base. I'll make my own with 10 thou Lexan and low gloss black paint.

 

All decals are inside except for the #21, which can be changed. The waterspots will disappear once I apply an external coat of Mop N Glo

 

IMG_5403.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#35 bluecars

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Posted 31 March 2017 - 06:10 AM

Sweet


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#36 Pablo

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Posted 31 March 2017 - 08:07 PM

Interior/driver done

 

IMG_5418.JPG

 

IMG_5421.JPG

 

IMG_5422.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#37 SlotStox#53

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Posted 31 March 2017 - 08:50 PM

Stunning ! That Truescale Ferrari is just the icing on the cake :D Color really pops too.

#38 Pablo

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 08:14 PM

Thanks Paul :)  The owner of this one has no fear and is going to run it hard :bb: Should be an interesting track test......

 

I think dc-65x gifted me these inserts. They are nice, but kind of rough and required drilling/trimming/sanding/truing.

My custom threaded axle Hudy attachment worked nicely to sandwich them between brass nuts.

Good thing I had a genuine Cox wrench :dance3:

 

IMG_5461.JPG

 

Model Master acrylic gold airbrushed on

 

IMG_5469.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#39 Pablo

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Posted 04 April 2017 - 07:47 PM

Inserts are done; no knockoffs, axle ends polished, inserts bored 1/8" and permanently attached to the hubs via 2 part clear epoxy.

Both axles custom cut so when the ends are flush with inserts, the wheels are at exactly 3" width

 

IMG_5491.JPG  

 

My goal was something permanent that won't fail or need attention.


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Paul Wolcott

#40 havlicek

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Posted 05 April 2017 - 06:14 AM

Pablo, I gotta say that those wheels and tires with the polished axle ends are one heckuva cool looking combo.  The whole car looks great, but the wheels are icing on the cake!


John Havlicek

#41 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 05 April 2017 - 06:20 AM

Make that 2 on what John said.


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 09:07 PM

Thanks John and Eddie :D  Maybe not the prettiest inserts I've done, but functional to the max.

 

Custom driver decal "Bud Greene", #21 outside decals, and the black screen decals all coated with Mop n Glo

 

IMG_5514.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#43 Pablo

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 08:06 PM

Havlicek 28 CW arm arrived today - everything fit perfect of course - she purred like a newborn kitten instantly.

 

2 volts, 2.2 amps, increased gradually to 2.4 amps, then decreased and stablized at a final 2.13 amps after 20 minutes.

 

3 volts, 2.9 amps, steady decrease to 2.3 amps after 12 minutes, barely warm, stopped, cooled, re-oiled.

 

Now I stabbed her hard a few times. Very little heat. Zero vibration, absolutely smooth.

Whistles real nice. Perfect. Take a gander at the post-break-in comm track and you be the judge:

 

IMG_5578.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#44 havlicek

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 06:09 AM

Good to hear Pablo.  Have you tried different tension springs, or are these the ones you like best for these type motors?  I was hoping for 2 amps or less on this, but if it runs fairly cool and you're happy...I'm happy  :)


John Havlicek

#45 Pablo

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 07:43 AM

No, I didn't experiment with spring tension and don't plan to, since it runs real cool and happy.

I've built enough of these to know what they "like".

 

I watch the amps during break in more as an indicator of progress and health than a measurement of performance.

Typically a fresh race motor will immediately, slowly and steadily rise in amps.

When the brushes start to conform, amps stabilize, then start dropping.

When it stablizes again, it's done.

 

Those readings, to me, are normal for a D can 28 wind with big airgap.

If it was running warm, or drawing lots of amps, I'd experiment.

 

Big amp draw can mean a problem, or it can also mean a potent motor.

Just depends. Look at the comm track - I'd be a fool to mess with that :laugh2:

 

Now, where did I put that doggone 517 Champion sticker? :)


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Paul Wolcott

#46 havlicek

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 08:03 AM

:D   Oh I know you know you're **** when it comes to this stuff Pablo.  I'm glad it's living happily in you're beautiful project!


John Havlicek

#47 Dallas Jackson

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 10:21 AM

Just a great build.

Keep the build's coming; I love it.   


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#48 Pablo

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 05:46 PM

Thanks guys :)  I can hardly wait to see Bud's face when he pulls the trigger on it :popcorm1:

Angled steel pinion and doubled Cox wires installed

 

IMG_5596.JPG

 

Tinned the can brace area with a nice fat dollop of 60/40

 

IMG_5593.JPG

 

My right side can brace is a piece of 1/16" brass tube connecting it as low as possible.

Same idea as Mike's - prevent the can end of the motor from lifting

 

IMG_5594.JPG

 

Mine is lighter, lower, and more efficient. At least, that's my theory.

If it has wheel hop when tested, I'll immediately change it to Mike's way :)

 

After all the acid, motor got a bath, and chassis was re-tumbled for a few hours.

I guess I did OK because everything fit perfect, and believe me, the tolerances are tight.

 

Now it's time for one last drivetrain test to ensure nothing got tweaked during the motor installation.......

If all sounds happy, I'll tack it here using paste flux....

 

IMG_5597.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#49 Bill from NH

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 07:41 PM

The chassis came out looking beautiful. :heart: The one drawback I can see in these early anglewinder designs using the front plate of an inline motor bracket is that it would not be easy to change gear ratios since the motor location is fixed. On the other hand, some racers in the day built a one-race chassis. They would built another chassis for their next race, so gear changing might not have been an issue like today. 


Bill Fernald
 

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#50 Pablo

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 09:02 PM

Thanks Bill :dance3:  Yup, they chose a set of gears, built a chassis to fit, and raced it next day.

Nowadays we plan a gear ratio/wheel OD, then begin a search for the correct parts. :)

 

In a vintage replica build like this, nailing the gear ratio, or at least getting it in the ballpark, is absolutely imperative.

Not to mention, if you screw a part up, you can't just walk up to the counter and buy another one for a couple bucks :o  


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