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The sleeper awakes... with an Indy Roadster... umm, Vanwall?


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#1 robbovius

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 09:06 AM

Hey, guys! It's me, back from a long hiatus. Much has happened in the intervening months... year? year+, maybe?

 

But anyway, since the last postings I did regading the Honey West Cobra - or maybe the motor widing threads? in January of '16 - , Pam and I have bought a house (June of '16) which is just farther enough enough away from good old Modelville Hobby to make it harder fro me to get there weekly, as I had been doing. 

 

Anyway, two weekends ago Pam and I took the 'Toolbox Fulla Cars' to Modelville and had a fun afernoon bombing around the blue oval and the black roadcourse, which, of course lit the slot car fires brightly within me, and I'm getting another scratchbuild in process.

 

But not one of the many old model car hardbodies which I have sitting around, rather another groovy eBay score...

 

A few weeks ago a guy was selling some Texaco promotional slot car kits from 1961, purportedly Indy Roadsters. they weren't really expensive so I snapped one up...

 

... and immediately ditched everything but the body and possibly the front axle, and began soldering up another of what I've started calling 'Robb's Inline Tube Chassis' (same as what I developed for Pam's Pink Corvette)...

 

20170402_190005.jpg

 

One of the biggest differences in this chassis vs. the Pink Corvette, is that I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder. which flows like buttah, compared to the Stay Brite silver stuff I used on the Corvette chassis.

 

The Texaco kit box calls it an Indy Roadster, but to my car guy eye the body looks a lot more like a 1950s Vanwall GP car, or perhaps a Maserati 250F. 

 

The kit claimed that it was a "snap-together" with a really cheesy stamped aluminum frame, 5-40 threaded axles, and rubber tires on threaded aluminum rims. 

 

It came with a Russkit 25 Mabuchi, and drove the rear axle with - no lie - a roller that was to be pressed onto the motor shaft, which would stick out of that hole in the side of the body, and rub against the left rear tire.

 

I'm saving the Russkit motor for some other Retro period project. This thing is getting the H&R Cobra motor that's in the picture... or maybe that Parma Deathstar? Either fits.

 

At some point the old vacuum-formed body had cracked along the sides of the nose. I fixed it by painting in a bunch of cyanoacrylate glue, and then laying in some nylon material (old pantyhose donated by Pam), and painting more cyanoacrylate on top of it. it seems to be holding well, if my failed attempts to pry the cracks apart afterward are any indication.

 

20170404_224940.jpg

 

I've got another old Dynamic chassis (complete runner though) that's going to get a period Aston Martin Le Mans sports racer body, and a 1/24 Monogram Porsche 904 that's going to get a custom frame as well... those in addition to the 40 other hardbodies I've got laying around,

 

Oh yeah, and wasn't I going to rewind a couple armatures at some point? 

 

At any rate, more pics on the proj later...


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#2 Cheater

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 09:54 AM

Robb,

 

You'll find a lot of info on the kit you bought (and BTW the seller must have found a case of them, as he's still selling them on eBay right now) at this LINK here at Slotblog. Go directly to post #3.

 

And your Vanwall guess was spot-on.


Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#3 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 10:19 AM

Robb, I wondered where you got lost. :laugh2:  Or if you were waiting for the snow to melt someplace.

 

The start of your chassis looks good. The Texaco kits I've been seeing lately on eBay have come from a Torrance, CA, individual who sells on eBay using three different names.

 

If your Russkit motor is gold paint with a red & gold label, it's a 23, the 25 is an entirely different animal with an aluminum endbell. Those gold with a black & gold label are Russkit 22s. 23s are faster than 22s, but are much harder to find.

 

Keep posting your build photos, now that you've started. :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

 

Welcome back! :)


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#4 robbovius

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 10:43 AM

Bill, you are correct, sir! After I'd posted I thought to myself, "Wait, did it say '25' or '23' on that Russkit motor?" It does have a gold case. 
 
Thanks for the info about the seller. I kind of wish I'd bought more than one of them, but this will be good. I want it to be as fast as the Hot Rod Catalina, but with better handling. 
 
The weekend before last I had my son out to teach him how to solder metals - he goes to Mass College of Art - and soldered both with the Stay Brite Silver, and some RS 1/16" diameter 60/40, and the thin 60/40 was so much easier to melt that I decided to do this chassis with that. Still working with the pencil torches because danger! ;-) I want to take this new car to the track next weekend or the following. 
 
After last winter things got really busy, especially with the purchase of the house. I'm farther from Modelville, just enough that it's not convenient to go there after my guitar lessons (I teach in the evenings). But both Pam and I got a bit fired up after going there and are going to go there at least monthly to run the cars.
 
Cheater, that link was gold! I think I might grab another if only for the body and the Russkit motor. 
 
I'll have more progress pics over the weekend.



#5 Cheater

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 11:13 AM

Yeah, I figured you'd like that one, Robb.

I think sometimes people forget just how much fantastic information is archived here at Slotblog. You can't get this kind of stuff on Facebook IMO.

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#6 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 01:36 PM

If this kind of stuff is on Facebook, one probably can't find where it is. :laugh2:


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#7 havlicek

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 04:35 PM

If your Russkit motor is gold paint with a red & gold label, it's a 23, the 25 is an entirely different animal with an aluminum endbell. Those gold with a black & gold label are Russkit 22s. 23s are faster than 22s, but are much harder to find.

 
... and the "23" (besides having a little faster wind, as Bill mentioned, is the first version of the FT16D.  

 

While the can still has the small blind bushing, as did the "22," the endbell is the newer version with the brush holders, sometimes optimistically referred to as "heat sinks."   :D


John Havlicek

#8 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 05:21 PM

John is correct. Additionally, the 23 has stronger magnets and a hotter wound arm.

 

I guess one might say the 23 was an all-around better package.


Bill Fernald
 

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#9 havlicek

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 07:44 AM

Hi Bill,

Yes, the wind is a little faster as we both mentioned earlier, but I doubt the magnets are any different in the "23" than those in the "22". I believe I've measured them both and came out with the same readings. I can check if I have examples of both around... I think I have a "23", but I usually only keep the cans from the "22," as the cans are identical, but rest of the motor is "a toss."
John Havlicek

#10 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 10:01 AM

And that would be the reason there are so many 22s still around. :) 

I have both both around but have never actually measured either. I'll have to get them out to read them. My 22s are in used motors, but I have one NOS 23 can and magnets.
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#11 robbovius

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 12:35 PM

So checked, and yes, it's s Russkit 23

20170407_125851.jpg
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#12 havlicek

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 01:52 PM

Just to be sure that someone didn't put a "23" sticker on a "22", check the end bell hardware.  Anyway, there are a comparatively large number of "22" Russkits as Bill said...and even so, those are often waaaay overpriced.  I guess the sellers are counting on buyers not paying close attention and grabbing a "22".  The "23" used to be pretty easy to get for good prices not long ago.  Generally-speaking...them days are long gone...BUT...if you're looking at doing a hot rod (*as many of the Russkits were rewound and souped-up), a "22" can and magnets only needs an FT16D end bell.  At that point, the armature doesn't matter anymore!


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#13 robbovius

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 04:16 PM

Hi John

That Russkit motor is what came in the Texaco kit box. Its got the metal brush holders, so, 23 :-)

#14 robbovius

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 09:56 AM

...Anyway, a bit more progress on what I've taken to calling  The Texaco Vanwall.

 

Bent up some 1/16 brass rod and soldered the front axle uprights. 

 

20170409_201249.jpg

 

ON the farside in the pic, I'd done the usual  "apply flame, touch the solder to the joint" method, but on the nearside I pre-placed a couple strands of the thin rosin core 60/40 that I'm using on this build, and then applied the heat.  That worked really well, giving a much cleaner joint. I'll likely do that for many of the other joints on this chassis. 

 

Those orange tires are dead leftovers from the Harry's Toolbox treasure chest, but I think I'm going to use them as fronts on this thing, just because. Maybe. 

 

I set the body in place, just for fun.

 

20170409_201309.jpg

 

getting there... tonight I'll get the front axle tube soldered in and begin the drop arm.

 

In other news, I fired up the digital power supply and ran the RUsskit 23 a bit, and was a bit bummed to find that it seems to have a bad bearing. started out at low revs okay but as I passed thru 3 volts, it shrieked, and I felt the can vibrate and twist. I suppose I could replace the can bushing. 

 

it went on the pile of repairables...

 

 


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#15 robbovius

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Posted 11 April 2017 - 06:25 AM

...and, it's a roller.

 

20170410_212554.jpg

 

with the body mocked up...

 

20170410_212328.jpg

 

yep, those orange donuts are staying on ;-) 

 

it rolls nice and flat, all four tires touch equally. I'm ditching that H&R motor for a Falcon TSR, like that in the Hot Rod Catalina. Track time in a couple weeks most likely. 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#16 robbovius

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Posted 17 April 2017 - 06:59 AM

...on to the guide arm and stuff. 

 

I had a different idea about the guide arm. rather than a drop arm, I thought I'd try oene solidly mounted, but of .032 brass, soldered to the tube that would otherwise be the drop arm pivot. the idea is to allow the guide a bit of flexibility. Also, I decided to scratch fabricate the drop arm, because, well, why not?

 

...shaping the guide flag end...

 

20170415_172441.jpg

 

...formed and soldered in place...

 

20170415_180405.jpg

 

I've made the guide arm in such a was as that if the springiness of the arm as it is causes the front of the car to bouce around too much, I can easily cut the tube and turn it into a drop arm similar to that on Pam's Pink Corvette. 

 

There was a break of about 2 days, but then I go on to making the body mounts.

 

the rears, soldered in place...

 

20170416_174837.jpg

 

In the below pic, you can also see the extra holes I've drilled in the motor bracket, so that I can attach the TSR Falcon motor with two screws.

 

20170416_174849.jpg

 

I got the front body mounts on there as well, though I seem to not have taken any pictures. No matter. 

 

At ay rate, the next phase is assembling the car, and getting in some test laps. 

 

I'm planning on repainting the car. Even though it came painted white on the inside of the body, it's a Vanwall, so I think a dark green is more appropriate, and I really like that deep metallic green that I'd painted the Hot Rod Catalina, so...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#17 Bill from NH

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Posted 17 April 2017 - 07:56 AM

Nice job on the droparm Robb! I've seen home/club cars using a similar attachment method as you did. They happened to be made of piano wire instead of sheet brass, but yours should work too..Early-on, the retro racing guys were drilling the REHCO motor bracket & others like you did to fit the Falcon-type cans.


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Some people burn rubber. I burn oil.  :roflmao: 


#18 robbovius

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Posted 17 April 2017 - 08:19 AM

Thanks Bill! I sort fo forgot how much fun it is building these things. ;-) I want to try running the vanwall without any ballast. I've kept the cahssis  to 1/16 inch off the deck, so its lower than either the HRCatalina or the Pink Corvette. The corvette handles very smoothly, but it doesn't have much motor. this thing should fly, but hopefully not out of the purple banking ;-) 



#19 robbovius

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Posted 19 April 2017 - 07:12 AM

It's getting there, though there's a do-over in the offing...

 

Last night , after some quality time drilling out the staked screws on the B-3 ignition plate (so I can retard the timing and fix a light detonation problem its had ever since I bored it out)...

 

Message_14925537650671.jpg

 

...I retreated to the basement labororatory to do first assebmly on the Texaco Vanwall. Basemant Lab is appropriately creepy, as evidenced by this burly house centipede, who chose to watch the entire build process.

 

20170418_204804.jpg

 

NOT creepy at all. Installed a 9 tooth pinion, and soldered up the leads on the Falcon TSR - double wires, cuz that's cool...

 

20170418_204833.jpg

 

..test fit the body adn drilled the mounting holes.

 

Message_1492560550992.jpg

 

Put it all together, and lets see how it sits, in a slightly blurry way, next to  the latest Ebay score...I am such a sucker for a nice Classic Manta Ray. Somebody stop me. Pam will thank you. ;-/

 

20170418_223902.jpg

 

 Chassis reveal...

 

20170418_223846.jpg

 

Unfortunately - but like Pam's Pink Corvette - the body mounts require a do-over. a bit hard to tell fromthe picture, but the body is crooked, the nose is skewed to the left side of the car. this afternoon I'l desoder the mounts and do the whole thing over, with a different fixturing and attachment scheme for the mounts. 

 

I still have to make guide flag clips and solder the guide flag ends of the wires.

 

 

But, its almost ready for the track!


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#20 robbovius

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 09:28 AM

... in actual fact, the body mounts weren't crooked, rather my calibrated eye was slightly miscalibrated and the front axle tube stuck out about .094" farther on the right side of the car than the left. A bit of mini hacksaw and file work fixed that. 

 

The first full assembly also showed that the guide flag hit the body when turned farthest to the left and right, so I desoldered and reshaped shortened the tongue (by about  .10 inch)...

 

20170420_181404.jpg

 

... soldered it back into place on the guide tongue tube, and reassembled the rolling chassis.

 

20170421_115220.jpg

 

This car doesn't have a drop arm, rather, I've added a long tongue of .032" brass that has a bit of flexiblity. right now it sets the guide flag at a height where the front tires are just barely off of the "track" surface, so that the car can weight the guide a bit, but there's some flexiblity to allow the guide flag to follow the track surface a bit independantly of the car. 

 

We shall see.

 

Initial running on the power supply showed that the axle bushings are spinning in the bracket, so those will get soldered next session. 

 

I have decided that this Vanwall, being British, shall be a proper dark green, in fact, the same metallic green of the Hot Rod Catalina. Here's the first coat, through which you can still see that dark spot from being stored with the original tires inside. It's got a couple more coats on it now, and the dark green metallic looks the bomb. Hope to get it all detailed and put together by the weekend.

 

20170421_115235.jpg


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#21 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 12:34 PM

Good build, Robb! Tell us how it runs after you track-test it at Modelville. With the green body and orange fronts, you have a peas and carrots car. :laugh2:


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Some people burn rubber. I burn oil.  :roflmao: 


#22 robbovius

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Posted 01 May 2017 - 10:36 AM

Thanks, Bill! 

 

I got it all sorted out over the last weekend, soldered in the rear axle bushings, gave the body a couple more coats of the nice metalflake green, painted the trim, put on a few of the old decals... here's the finished product.
 

20170501_110715.jpg

 

20170501_110613.jpg

 

20170501_110513.jpg

 

20170430_170337.jpg

 

Hoping for some track time soon, this week maybe.



#23 bluecars

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Posted 01 May 2017 - 04:07 PM

Pretty cool. A black magic marker and some clear fingernail polish might help the fronts in more ways than one.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#24 Bill from NH

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Posted 01 May 2017 - 04:26 PM

The car looks cool in green and the chassis finished up nicely. As Red says, hardening the fronts might help with the handling. Nail polish works, as would a light coating of crazy glue. The nail polish comes with a brush for application, the glue you would puddle up on a sheet of wax paper and run your fronts through it.


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Some people burn rubber. I burn oil.  :roflmao: 


#25 robbovius

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 07:03 AM

Hey guys, thanks for the positive comments. I like how it came out. I can't paint like Noose, and my detail work is a bit spotty, but it's fun building these things. 

 

Anyway, those fronts are a set of tires that came in the "Harry's Toolbox" treasure chest, and they are both ancient, and have a hard scale on the tread surface from tire grip compound usage back in the day. I have several sets just like them, which I may experiment with as far as the black sharpie coloring. I agree hat black fronts would likely look better.

 

I'm working on another build right now, an AMT Dodge Viper RT-10 hardbody.  



#26 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 07:55 AM

Robb, has it seen any track time yet? I have several pair of those dried and hardened orange SBR rubber tires; a couple are NOS. :)


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#27 robbovius

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 06:04 AM

Hey, Bill, No track time yet. Been dealing with some family drama. Hopefully this week or next. I'll post pics and video when I do.



#28 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 10:29 AM

Sounds good!


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#29 robbovius

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 11:37 AM

Yes, the Texaco Vanwall does look much better with black front tires... ;-)

 

20170531_122505.jpg

 

...and nope, no track time yet.

 

I know, right? 







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