151 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Bill from NH gave me a copy of the Dec '69 "Model Cars" article.
Jairus built a real nice one HERE.
 
Thanks to them, this should be relatively "easy."

Parts gathering phase - found an Electric Dreams 20 thou McLaren M8A in my body stash.

Emott used a 25 wire arm, so maybe a strong body is a good thing.
 

[grooverunner]

Paul ,
 
Your a vintage slot car building machine! And a darn good one at that.

[SlotStox#53]

Pablo + Pro Anglewinder build + phat wire motor =

Looking forward to seeing this one come to life!

Here's the magical place Bob raced:

[Jairus]

Most of those parts are very hard to find these days, Paul.

Good luck and I'll be watching. 

[Pablo]

Thanks, guys.
 
I don't mean to imply it will be an exact replica. Parts substitutions won't slow me down one bit.

[Pablo]

Progress on parts gathering/planning today was my decision on specs to have John Havlicek build me a 26 wire arm.
Emott used a 25 but my experience is, H arms perform at least one wire size "better" than vintage winds.
 
Obviously it will need to breathe to stay cool, so I carved some material out of a Champion endbell and Champion can.

Champion magnet shim, Mura magnets, modern Koford shunts/insulation, 36D size brush holders, etc.
 

[Bill from NH]

Obviously it will need to breathe to stay cool,

 
You could also have John provide you a pair of his custom-wound brush springs.

[Pablo]

You could also have John provide you a pair of his custom-wound brush springs.

 

Excellent idea, Bill. Thanks. 

[Pablo]

1. Open end of can placed on wet soapy sandpaper over a flat hard surface and sanded, to give a nice flush can to EB fit.

The bushing alignment shaft tool liked the new fit so much, I'm having second thoughts about installing a BB on the can.

It may not even be necessary on this particular type setup.

 

2. Champion shims cleaned and polished.

 

3. Pent roof brush holders straightened, cleaned, and polished.

 

 

 

 

[grooverunner]

[Pablo]

Wasn't long ago, I drilled pilot holes and used self tapping screws to secure can to endbell and endbell to chassis.

Worked fine and I haven't had a single failure.

 

But I woke up and smelled the coffee. Now I'm onboard with dc-65x's method of using taps and threading my endbells.

2-56 for the EB to chassis mounting holes, and 0-80 for can to EB Champion screws.

 

The tools cost money, the methods are more work, but it's worth it to snug up a screw and know the alignment is perfect.

Every single time.

 

All four holes are tapped on my Emott motor. Bushing quality and alignment are perfect.

If I wasn't so confident, I'd probably put a BB on the can. But I am, and I won't.

 

 

 

Big Foot brushes are pre-radiused, spring notches enlarged for insulated shunts, marked pos/neg, and polished.

[Bill from NH]

I've used 2-56 and 0-80 taps for motor building since the '70s. Some Parma 16Ds might have been the exception. I own 00-90 and 1-72 taps too, but seldom use them. A 4-40 is a good one to have for cleaning and reforming setscrew hole threads.

 

I use newsprint for polishing motor brushes. A brown paper bag from the grocery store would probably work too, but I haven't tried it. What are you using to polish brushes?

[Pablo]

Printer paper.

[Cheater]

For me, back of a standard business card works well. Being cardtsock, it doesn't need to be supoorted by a flat surface as much as a paper does IMO.

 

Not sure it really matters, as most any paper without a glossy finish will be slightly abrasive to some extent.

[Jairus]

Not to mention, cuts skin quite efficiently.

[Jairus]

Meanwhile, back at the ranch...

Paul, do you have a painter for the body yet? I am doing one for a member, probably inspired by your build, and was wondering if you wanted me to shoot and letter that body of yours?

Probably ready to post a pic tomorrow so you don't have to answer right away.

I owe you, sir.

[Pablo]

Meanwhile, back at the ranch.

You mean "Ranch and Petting Zoo"?
 

Paul, do you have a painter for the body yet?

 
Yes, me
 

I am doing one for a member, probably inspired by your build, and was wondering if you wanted me to shoot and letter that body of yours?

I'd love to have you letter it for me.
 

I owe you, sir.

I don't recall you owing me, but I won't argue
 
Found the perfect interior, already painted by Jairus:
 

[Pablo]

I don't own a controller with a choke. Do I need one for a 26 wind?

[Bill from NH]

Where are you planning to run it? I never ran a choke with my 26 arm. (Nobody ran chokes in those days.) If you think you might need a choke, it'd be pretty ease to make one. Wrap some 20 or 22 gage wire on a Coke can or a length of PVC, maybe 30' of it. Every 3' or so, bring out a stub of wire to strip so you'll have something to clip onto .Put a clip on the tail end of the wire so you can hook it to a track's post.  Or, buy a Koford choke from PCH for $161.

[Pablo]

Where are you planning to run it?

Mostly at The Dungeon, 12.5 volts. But I'll run it anywhere and everywhere it goes, unless I get a good offer to buy it.
 

I never ran a choke with my 26 arm.

Good enough for me right there, case closed, although I do appreciate the extra info.
 

 

[Pablo]

Fished a pair of Champion brush holder/insulator gizmos out of my "drawer of horrors." 

 

 

The PM endbell has nubs under the brush holders that position them correctly.

Now the gizmos take over that duty, and the nubs must be removed to allow the holders to sit flush.

Also, I tapped the brush hardware screw holes 2-56.

 

[Pablo]

Hoods silver soldered to holders. Wire tabs tinned with 60/40.

 

[Bill from NH]

Do you also solder the brush hoods and holders to the  Champion plates in post #41?

 

Or, are they just held in place by the 2-56 machine screws?

[MSwiss]

On the subject of chokes, 26 wire probably wouldn't require it.

But than again, it matters on how much voltage you are running on.

On over 14V, on a heavily wired track, you might want one.

On low voltage, but on a short track, one might come in handy for driveability.

Regardless, only use something with a high temp, silicone jacket.

When chokes were fairly new animals, I was at a race at Andy Smith's (now Professor Motor) raceway.

Jon Laster had one cobbled together, using cheap Radio Shack, hook-up wire.

It ignited, creating so much smoke, the race was delayed for at least 5 minutes, while the doors were opened, for the smoke to clear enough, for the drivers to see.

[Pablo]

Do you also solder the brush hoods & holders to the Champion plates in post #41? Or, are they just held in place by the 2-56 machine screws?

 

No, and yes. None of the Champion endbell set-ups I've seen have them soldered.