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Emott Tottenham build


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#51 Pablo

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 11:33 PM

I split my thread into two parts tonight. Many Emott fans and historians chimed in with good info and photos but things were getting confused and cluttered, since Bob built so many chassis during that era.

The posts were relevant and I wanted to keep them, so they've simply been moved here:
 
Emott builds - historical discussions & photos
 
By all means, let the discussion continue, please. Meanwhile, I'll continue my magazine chassis and car build where I started it.

Everybody happy with that?  :)
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Paul Wolcott




#52 Pablo

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 11:44 PM

Been down hard with some sort of bug for a while.

When I don't work on slots for four days, you know I'm sick. :heat:  First time in about a decade.

Finally found the energy to go to my doc today and he didn't hold back on the meds.

Did some tests and threw a bunch of stuff at it, including antibiotics. Something sure worked.

Got my appetite back within hours, woke from a nap thinking... walk the dog... slot car motors... food... etc.

 

So in goes the Havlicek 26 to its Champion nest. Line-up was perfect, of course.

Mags and shims secured with CA, then buttoned down tight... feels good to be rolling again...

 

IMG_5913.JPG

 

IMG_5918.JPG


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#53 Pablo

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 12:54 AM

Shunted and insulated. A race motor, not a beauty queen.

 

IMG_5923.JPG

 

IMG_5929.JPG

 

Started right up at the click of the dial, zero hesitation - always a great sign of health, especially for a big arm.

Fed 'er 2V and she draws 2.2A. Sounds good so far. Good time to walk the dog

 

IMG_5851.JPG


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#54 Pablo

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 01:40 AM

Break in at 2V, she draws about 2.3A for a few mins, then a cooldown.

3V, after a few mins settles down to about 2.3A. Nice and smooth, only mildly warm, about what I'd expect for a big wire arm.

Another cooldown, then fed her some power. Oh yeah, smooth, no heat issues, sounds plenty potent.

 

Motor is done, good to go.  :dance3:  Thanks, John.  :good:


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#55 havlicek

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 07:05 AM

It takes a brave man to put a #26 wire arm into an endbell drive Champion, Pablo. Well, to have it actually work takes a skilled man as well! :D


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John Havlicek

#56 Pablo

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 09:59 AM

"Tony Stark built one in a cave out of scraps!!!" :laugh2:


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#57 havlicek

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 12:56 PM

... while recuperating from heart surgery!


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#58 havlicek

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 05:38 AM

One thing I've never fully understood is why some will insulate both the short and the long leg of the springs as in post #54 in the picture above the one of Officer Pooch. Sure, I understand trying to avoid current from passing through and heating up the spring... with the potential for what Rick showed being there, but insulating the long leg should do that, and it's also clear that the short leg of the spring is still often going to be in contact with the brush tube/heatsink where it isn't insulated. Besides, current from the track will only flow in one direction anyway.  


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#59 tonyp

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 06:47 AM

John,

 

When I was running that fast stuff we insulated both ends to keep no electricity flowing through it and to insulate it from the heat of brush.


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#60 havlicek

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 06:57 AM

Ahh... so insulating the short leg is to keep the brush heat from heating the brush "spring." That makes sense, Tony. It never occurred to me that the graphite could cause the spring to get hot... duh!   :)  

Thanks!


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#61 tonyp

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 07:03 AM

Back in those days you would do anything to get the motors to last. You did not change motors during the race till much later.


"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#62 havlicek

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 12:07 PM

Or... "brush spring." Edited!   :)  

 

In any case, graphite is (I think) a pretty good conductor of heat, so insulating the short leg seems like a good insurance policy!


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#63 MSwiss

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 12:43 PM

When I was running that fast stuff we insulated both ends to keep no electricity flowing through it and to insulate it from the heat of brush

 

Except in this case, and probably in yours, the cup was hot, both literally and figuratively.

I always insulated the short end of the spring to better hold the shunt, in place.

I quit insulating the long end, because I felt it just made it easier for the spring to get knocked off of the hook.

To insulate the spring, electrically, you need those Camen machined phenolic spring cups,that didn't seem to be around for very long.


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#64 Pablo

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 01:23 PM

Decals arrived:

 

IMG_5940.JPG


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#65 Pablo

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Posted 22 May 2017 - 08:32 PM

Tongue doubler attached; now I have a .050" drop arm.

 

IMG_6021.JPG

 

IMG_6016.JPG

 

Close enough.  :D

 

IMG_6011.JPG


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#66 Martin

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Posted 23 May 2017 - 03:19 PM

Holy lamination, Batman. I would liked to have seen how you did that, pretty tricky.

 

Good to see some brass action. :good:


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#67 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2017 - 04:48 PM

Thanks, Martin.  :)

 

The answer is, I could have simply laid a tinned oversize piece of .015" over the entire arm, minitorched it then trimmed it.

 

But in the interest of easier trimming of the rectangular void, and using less heat to solder it, I made it in two parts.

I tacked the halves together, tacked the edges in place a la Mike Steube, scribed lines for the void, then removed.

 

Broke them back in half, nibbled the void lines, tinned 'em, slathered 'em in acid, and layed 'em down.

Secured with about six small alligator clips, elevated it above a block, and hit it with a minitorch.

 

When cool, I gave all edges a final trim with disc sander, files, elbow grease, and 400 and 2,000 grit sandpapers.

 

Plumber hinge tubes and strengthener bits, and the .055" 'nerf bar' as Bob called it, are done.

 

IMG_6027.JPG

 

IMG_6023.JPG


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#68 Martin

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 12:29 AM

Good solution, Paul.

 

I am still thinking about buying some .050" brass to play with. I put the Pro in procrastination. 

 

 

I admire your "go for it" style. Build on.


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#69 mike1972chev

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 04:59 AM

Mr. Pablo does great work!  

 

I just ordered some .050" brass sheet Monday for my first build. (Well,it is supposed to be around .050" anyway. We will see???)  My first car will be an entry level, "beginner" build to practice a bit. You know I will be asking questions.   :)

 

Do you have a favorite outlet to get piano/music wire?  


Michael J. Boruff


#70 Pablo

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 08:38 AM

Slot car raceways usually carry it.


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#71 Pablo

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 02:23 PM

All jigged up with jig motor and notched tube.

I found the worst 32t Cox spur I had for a jig gear so I can just leave it there for the duration then trash it.
 
IMG_6034.JPG
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#72 havlicek

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 03:09 PM

Mr. Pablo does great work!  
 
I just ordered some .050" brass sheet Monday for my first build. (Well,it is supposed to be around .050" anyway. We will see???)  My first car will be an entry level, "beginner" build to practice a bit. You know I will be asking questions.   :)
 
Do you have a favorite outlet to get piano/music wire?

 
If and only if your local raceway doesn't have what you need, this place has a wide selection and fair prices:

Hobbylinc
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#73 Pablo

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 10:09 PM

That's it for today. No problems so far, other than trying to understand the mag article. :dash2: :laugh2:
 
IMG_6040.JPG
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#74 Pablo

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 01:51 PM

The article calls for the rear section rails to be cut 1/2" forward of the angled cross wire on each side.

It doesn't make any sense to me why they would be staggered and I see nothing stopping me from making them even.

 

So I did it like Jairus and cut them equal length slightly forward of the drop arm hinge.

 

IMG_6042.JPG

 

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#75 Pablo

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 06:00 PM

Here is a classic example of why I always check my rods and wires for straightness.
Went to make a pair of .055" outer wire rails and they were not even close.
 
IMG_6044.JPG
 
No problem. Discard and check another length from the pack of nine 12" lengths.
Bad, bad, bad all really bad. So bad I didn't even need a dial checker.
 
The whole batch is bent, and not in just one spot. No big deal, only $2.50 worth of parts.
My point is, anything mass-produced has flaws - maybe you don't check yours.
 
Maybe it would explain why some chassis are simply deemed "evil handlers." :o :D
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#76 mike1972chev

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 07:08 AM

I don't have a dial indicator V block set up like you have, Mr. Wolcott, but could create one. Could I just roll them across a piece of glass and check the runout that way? (Somewhat accurate, but not as precise I am thinking?)

Michael J. Boruff


#77 don.siegel

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 08:29 AM

A lot of hardware stores also have full (or less...) K&S racks. 
 
Good work, Pablo, been following this one. 
 
Don

#78 Pablo

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 10:39 AM

Thanks, Don. :) 

Michael, yes, you can roll them on glass and it will get the job done fine.
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#79 Pablo

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 09:32 PM

So far so good.

 

IMG_6048.JPG


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#80 Martin

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 11:22 PM

:good: Looking real good.


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#81 Pablo

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 06:56 PM

Thanks, Jencar17, my long time loyal fan :D and thanks Martin Windmill, my fellow Emott fan :victory:

 

Progress is slow but sure. If you look real close you can see some of Bob's extreme attention to detail :)

Better photos will come after everything is cleaned up, of course

 

IMG_6053.JPG


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#82 dc-65x

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 07:17 PM

Very nice Pablo. Makes me really want to solder something! :crazy:


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#83 Jairus

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Posted 29 May 2017 - 07:58 AM

Yeah... me too Rick. :wink2:


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#84 Martin

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Posted 29 May 2017 - 01:21 PM

Me three, :)


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#85 Pablo

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Posted 29 May 2017 - 05:59 PM

Thanks guys :)

Bob recommended a Coke ® break after the wire wrapping phase so I got 'er out of the jig and cleaned everything up

 

IMG_6068.JPG

 

IMG_6059.JPG

 

IMG_6062.JPG

 

 

 


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#86 Martin

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 01:21 AM

Things do go better with Coke.

You earned it. :good: 


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#87 Pablo

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Posted 01 June 2017 - 09:22 AM

CAD? Down here on da bayou we don' need nuttin' but a pencil and some cardboard.  :crazy:

 

IMG_6080.JPG

 

Mocking the pan shape up allowed me to see it before going nuts with the band saw. Plus:

- a few key dimensions are missing from the article

- I don't want my cutouts to go quite as deep

- my guide lead is 1/16" shorter than Bob's

- some of my wires are .055" versus .063"

- my body sides are tapered and I want them to form fit perfectly

- my front "fingers" will be .35" wide versus .25"


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#88 Pablo

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Posted 01 June 2017 - 04:26 PM

Batpans done. Now you can see my taper from 3-1/16" at forward pin tube area to 3-1/8" rear.

Bob took pains to ensure his body and chassis fit well and I'll do my best also.

 

IMG_6082.JPG


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#89 Jairus

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Posted 01 June 2017 - 04:34 PM

Very nice, Paul! The equal length half rails look so much better.  :dance3:


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#90 Pablo

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Posted 02 June 2017 - 04:59 PM

Yes, Jairus, and again, thanks for paving the way for me with your build.

 

Bob's "wingies" - 1" wide .032" brass cut to .562" lengths.

Since they aren't "mirror image cut," I can't do them together ala Mike Steube.

So I made a couple of cardboard wingie mock-ups.

 

IMG_6091.JPG


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#91 dc-65x

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Posted 02 June 2017 - 08:39 PM

Looking very nice, Pablo... your build is inspiring me! :dance3:


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#92 Pablo

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 07:17 PM

Thanks, Rick.  :D

 

My "bayou technology" cardboard mock ups for the "wingies" worked nicely.

 

IMG_6102.JPG

 

As Tony suggested, I added braces - .032" and .039" wire pieces.

I still consider the design weak, but it's a compromise between style/period correct and function.

 

IMG_6093.JPG


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#93 Pablo

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Posted 05 June 2017 - 10:22 PM

This is where Bob said take another break and do another clean up.

 

He also mentioned it would all be hinged but flopping around, and the stops to control everything will follow later.

 

So I guess I'm on track...

 

IMG_6105.JPG


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#94 Pablo

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Posted 06 June 2017 - 06:51 PM

While the chassis tumbles I gave the rears a final trim/true at .818" OD by 7/8".

 

IMG_6112.JPG


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#95 Pablo

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 08:15 AM

Chassis is done.

 

IMG_6119.JPG

 

IMG_6123.JPG

 

Emott put lots of small but important strengthening and redundancy features on this chassis, like:

- the small rod pieces on the drop arm that buttress the plumber hinge tubes

- triple pan downstops

- wire pieces on the rear of the pans to protect the wingies

- wire pieces to buttress the outer drop arm hinge tubes

etc.

 

I didn't always follow the exact way he did everything.

 

Here is how I did my drop arm downstop and spring wire:

 

IMG_6129.JPG

 

My pan bite bars and springs, etc:

 

IMG_6132.JPG

 

Wingie braces:

 

IMG_6135.JPG

 

The right side bearing tube is thin so I braced it with .032" wire:

 

IMG_6134.JPG

 

With the motor that's going in this car, it's gonna need all that.  :D


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Paul Wolcott

#96 dc-65x

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 09:08 AM

Really excellent workmanship, Pablo.  :good:


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Rick Thigpen
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#97 Jairus

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 12:36 PM

Wow, I need to up my game...
Very well done Paul! :good: :good: :good:


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#98 Half Fast

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 01:12 PM

Amazing complexity and craftsmanship.

 

Bravo! :good:

 

Cheers


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#99 bluecars

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 02:43 PM

Awesome! Where is the "Pablo" plaque?


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#100 Pablo

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 03:48 PM

Thanks, guys.  :)

 

Motor brace thickener/strengthener gizmo made it pretty easy to get a perfect mesh.

But I won't solder it to the main brace until I'm set on gearing.

 

IMG_6146.JPG

 

Can is soldered to left side at ground zero. If it needs more bracing to prevent motor wiggle I'll do it.

But I think this will suffice.

 

IMG_6144.JPG


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Paul Wolcott





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