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#101 Pablo

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 06:57 PM

Cox Superflex lead wires partially routed and wheels installed.

I JB Welded the Pablo plaque then put the chassis aside for the day.

Here ya go, Red

 

IMG_6153.JPG

 

Now, where did I put those doggone Denny Hulme decals? :search:


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Paul Wolcott




#102 Pablo

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 02:46 PM

Pattos decals (inside) and Model Masters acrylics.

 

IMG_6170.JPG

 

Rear vent opened up for breathing and some conservative intake stacks.

 

IMG_6173.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#103 Pablo

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 04:24 PM

Usually when a Pablo car gets this close to completion, things come together fairly quickly.

This time I have a car that doesn't pass muster on my "perfect clearance/all four wheels sit happy" test.

 

She sits low on the left and I don't know why or what happened. So the parts will come off for a chassis inspection.

In the future I'll be doing the four-wheel check before the other parts go on.  :D

 

IMG_6174.JPG

 

Rather than knash my teeth, it gives me an opportunity to back up and make improvements in addition to the leveling problem:

 

- Cox vintage Superflex wires are not great due to age and I'll change to new Marklin wires.

- I forgot to add an .032" wire strengthener piece across the top of the drop arm hinge.

- Plumber upstop "Z" wire on left side is too close to the motor.

- Despite my measurements, the jig motor was a hair shorter than the real motor, so it's tighter than I wanted.

 

The can is way longer than it needs anyway to be so I'll be disassembling it, extracting the mags and shim, shortening it, re-drilling the holes, re-centering the arm, and re-positioning and securing the mags.

 

So it may appear I'm going in reverse for a while, but nothing leaves the Wolcott Ranch until it's the best I can make it.  :)


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#104 Pablo

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 05:01 PM

Found the problem. Jay Guard says "photons don't lie." :thank_you2:

 

IMG_6179.JPG

 

Simply a matter of the ball bearings shifting when I soldered them. Easy fix.


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Paul Wolcott

#105 Pablo

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Posted 12 June 2017 - 04:48 PM

Original endbell was worn just from the rigors of building. A $3 part, so I am giving the shortened motor a new one.

See the crack on the bushing flange? Room for improvement.

Also I don't feel tapping the brush hardware for 2-56 is needed so I won't be doing it again.

 

IMG_6181.JPG

 

The stock press fit bushing mikes at .260" and the endbell hole mikes at .257".

It didn't split when I installed it, but at some point it did.

Took a junk but straight shaft arm and added solder to the shaft until the bushing was a tight press fit.

Chucked it up to a drill and sanded the OD down to about .258".

 

IMG_6185.JPG

 

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Much better fit, a couple light taps snugged 'er down nice.  :)

 

IMG_6188.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#106 Pablo

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Posted 12 June 2017 - 06:13 PM

Acetone cut the CA magnet glue in short order, then I removed .030" of material from the can.

 

IMG_6190.JPG


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#107 Pablo

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Posted 12 June 2017 - 09:20 PM

The Jairus Watson interior.

 

IMG_6195.JPG


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#108 havlicek

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 06:21 AM

Yeah, Pablo... those Champion bushings are a really tight fit! I've always figured it's only a matter of time before I crack an endbell installing one!


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#109 Pablo

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 09:15 PM

Shortened motor is done. Yes, it was a lot of work :)

Mags re-positioned to center the arm, new brushes re-radiused, setup completely re-blueprinted.

The Don Weaver motor breakin platform really came in handy here

 

IMG_6212.JPG

 

My new method of attaching the doubled Marklin wires is, one soldered to the hood and the other as a shunt.

Another improvement was changing from the "period correct" straight steel pinion to a new angled ARP 7T

 

IMG_6237.JPG


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#110 Bill from NH

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 10:34 PM

A Dremel cutoff disc & a drill press would have made can shortening easier.


Bill Fernald
 

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#111 Pablo

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Posted 15 June 2017 - 07:47 AM

?? :scratch_one-s_head: Did it with a disc sander and it took about five seconds.


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#112 Pablo

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Posted 15 June 2017 - 04:29 PM

Some acid and a pass with the minitorch while pressing down on the jig block is all it took to correct the tube height.  :)

 

IMG_6255.JPG

 

.032" wire piece across the drop arm hinge tubes.

 

IMG_6246.JPG

 

Found a really neat vintage brass flag weight/keeper gizmo that is lightly threaded.

It made the flag very smooth and wobble free. Much better than the ones with a set screw.

 

IMG_6249.JPG


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#113 Pablo

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 06:09 PM

Wire routing complete.

 

IMG_6264.JPG

 

One wire to the brush and the other to the hood - an experimental method and I'll be watching it after every test.

 

IMG_6266.JPG

 

Parts assembly complete and she passes the drivetrain test with flying colors.

In fact it sounds downright dangerous, as I'd expect with a Havlicek 26 wire.  :)

 

IMG_6276.JPG

 

IMG_6282.JPG


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#114 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 08:17 PM

I'm sure this is safe to say, sure looks like your best build yet, Pablo :D

Stunning looking and that motor description = the banking better watch out!



#115 proptop

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 12:00 AM

That looks mahvellous... (said in the voice of Billy Crystal immitating Fernando Llamas on SNL... back in the '80s). Your craftsmanship is magnificent!

 

FWIW I have noticed that the Champion endbells like you show above, seem to become less prone to cracking after boiling...

The ones that I have dyed seem to feel just a wee bit more pliable...

 

I learned that nylon type plastics can become less flexible with age (as can we... LOL... ugh...)

 

Short story...Top Flite models put a notification to boil their props in the boxes of their white nylon propellors back in the '70s because of a few accidents where a blade flew off at high RPM. while test-running a model engine on the ground.

 

Boiling them for 20 to 30 minutes really helped them to regain flexibility...


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#116 Pablo

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 06:24 PM

Thanks, guys.  :) 

 

Tom, I've been meaning to do the boiling thing for a long time.

I've no doubt it works but I need to remember to do it before the build instead of after.  :fool:

 

Car is done and ready for track test this Wednesday night at Greg Gilbert's track.

 

IMG_6284.JPG

 

IMG_6298.JPG

 

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IMG_6297.JPG


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#117 bluecars

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 06:43 AM

Sweet!!!


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#118 Jairus

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 08:34 AM

Very, very nice build, Paul!  

Raising the bar again...  :good:  :good:


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#119 boxerdog

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 08:51 AM

I've got a feeling that thing is going to work as good as it looks. Outstanding!


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#120 Jaz

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 09:36 AM

Beautifully done!!

 

But... no air control?


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#121 dc-65x

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 09:48 AM

That's a real beauty, Pablo.  :wub:  You've inspired me to build an anglewinder, too! :dance3:


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#122 havlicek

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 10:40 AM

That's one heckuva sweet car, Pablo!  She looks as good underneath as she does on top... and that's saying something!


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#123 Pablo

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 12:39 PM

Thanks, guys.  :)  I may attach a spoiler later, but I want to run it as-is first.


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#124 Pablo

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 09:05 AM

Track test results: no problems at all. It handled the super-tight corners at The Nightmare just fine and stays planted.

She wasn't able to even come close to stretching her legs on the small track.

But I can tell you, the acceleration even on 10 volts is instant.  :aggressive:

 

Next test, this Saturday at The Dungeon, a full-size track.


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#125 Pablo

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 03:45 PM

Track test #2:

-handles like a dream, planted solid in the slot, drifts nice, no tilting

-power is instantaneous, predictable, and smooth, runs barely warm at 12.5 volts.

-zero problems

 

World Champion Greg Gilbert drive it hard for about 20 laps with zero deslots and loved it.

 

Two items with room for improvement:

-I added a clear 1/2" spoiler

 

IMG_6406.JPG

 

-The Cox spur mated to the ARP angled steel pinion was a little noisy.

I was going to change to a straight steel pinion, but that would have required acid.

So, I thought just maybe one of those Cobra different spurs that are notorious for "not liking" normal 48P pinions may work.

I found one a Riggen that meshes sweet with the ARP and the drivetrain test sounds much improved :dance3:

 

IMG_6405.JPG


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#126 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 08:53 PM

I'm going to question that blue spur, but maybe I'm wrong.

 

1,) I never saw a Cobra angle cut spur.

 

2.) The Cobra spurs I have are straight-cut & charcoal gray. The GF clones of the Cobra are straight cut, slightly wider, & darker in color than a genuine Cobra spur.

 

3.) The only blue angle cut spurs I own are Riggen, which sometimes crack in the package. Your's looks to be made much better than these Riggens. Could it be a modern Cahoza or another brand?


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#127 Pablo

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 11:45 PM

Good catch Bill :D It's not a Cobra. I tried so many gears I got confused - it is a Riggen.


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#128 Pablo

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Posted 13 August 2017 - 05:43 PM

Track test #3:

Riggen spur got chewed up almost instantly, and inspection revealed the root of my problem is a sloppy EB bushing.

It wasn't that sloppy when I installed it, but it is now :)

 

Back to the workbench.......


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#129 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2017 - 02:45 PM

New EB bushing installed, mounting plate gizmo soldered in solid, and a new Cobra spur.

The motor seems to run just as well without shunts, so in the interest of simplicity I soldered wires directly to pent roofs.

It's my own personal play car, so I just want it to be simple :)

 

IMG_6844.JPG

 

Track test #4 in a few weeks.....


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#130 Pablo

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 08:03 PM

Track test #4 today was perfection. It's done :sun_bespectacled:


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#131 Pablo

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 08:09 PM

Another lesson learned. Just as I thought this car was 100% complete, I found a flaw.

Chasing John Clow's new Pablo Limpach (http://slotblog.net/...-clows-limpach/) around the track with my Emott

a couple weeks ago, it developed a gear noise.

 

Today, I gave it a thorough going over - no broken solder joints, no failed parts, nothing wrong.

Motor is secure, gear mesh is slightly loose but nothing out of the ordinary.

 

Removed the wheel, gear, and spacers

 

IMG_7777.JPG

 

Found the problem. The used Cobra spur had lots of wear on the hub when I installed it

 

IMG_7782.JPG

 

and the phosphorous bronze Koford 5 thou spacer snuggled into the worn area once the car had some laps on it.

Which created gear lash, friction, and noise

 

IMG_7783.JPG

 

I'm seeing a pattern in my builds - every spur gear marked "COBRA" is bad.

I really doubt any of them are genuine vintage Cobra products.

eBay is full of these bad gears for good reason.

All of mine are going in the garbage because I'm a good guy and I don't want to pass along bad parts.


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#132 dc-65x

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 09:15 PM

Hi Pablo,

 

The period tech sheets were filled with Cox and Fass Spur gears. Probably why these gears are harder to find today and the Cobras are common. I believe PdL preferred a Cox for its long wearing properties....but you need to find one that runs true.


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#133 Pablo

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 10:15 PM

Rick, is it possible the gears marked "COBRA" I'm having problems with, don't tolerate pinions smaller than 8t?

I remember Bill telling me they didn't even make 7t pinions back in the day.....


Paul Wolcott

#134 slotcarone

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 01:10 AM

Pablo none of the gears in the pictures seem to have any wear on them. I am wondering if the modern pinions even though they are the same 48 pitch maybe have a different profile that does not mesh well with the vintage gears? I seem to remember running 7 tooth pinions but they were usually brass.


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#135 Pablo

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 09:15 AM

I dunno. I seem to remember problems with Cobras with brass pinions as well.


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#136 dc-65x

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 11:29 AM

The profile or shape of the teeth on pinion gears does vary.

 

I just finished going through a half dozen different vintage and modern 7T pinions to get a good mesh with a 29T Weldun crown gear. For this particular crown gear I settled on a modern 7T steel JK pinion.

 

Point is, different pinions may better or worse with a particular mating gear. I always have a couple of 7T (straight not angled) JK and Sonic steel pinions on hand as I've had good luck with them.


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#137 Pablo

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 04:35 PM

Concur. I'm gonna work with it some more today. The magic combo is here in my gear box of horrors.

Just gotta find it :D


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#138 Pablo

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 06:46 PM

Looked at another Cobra spur, and it had the same strange slanted indentation of the hub bore on the bearing side also.

Whatever. Just something to remember when chosing and placing spacers in case I ever decide to try another one.

 

Hopefully my Tottenham gearing glitches are over now - went back to a straight 8t Sonic and a Cox 32t.

4/1 is a little more aggressive than I wanted, but the best I could do without major changes.

I think the motor can handle it :aggressive:

 

Next test January 6, 2018


Paul Wolcott

#139 Horsepower

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 05:54 PM

If you need a Gunther Fass gear let me know.
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#140 Horsepower

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 05:55 PM

We can send it Pony Express this time.
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#141 Pablo

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 06:00 PM

Thanks check with me on 7 Jan :good:


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