Jump to content




Photo

Emott Tottenham build


  • Please log in to reply
151 replies to this topic

#51 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 16 May 2017 - 11:33 PM

I split my thread into two parts tonight. Many Emott fans and historians chimed in with good info and photos but things were getting confused and cluttered, since Bob built so many chassis during that era.

The posts were relevant and I wanted to keep them, so they've simply been moved here:
 
Emott builds - historical discussions & photos
 
By all means, let the discussion continue, please. Meanwhile, I'll continue my magazine chassis and car build where I started it.

Everybody happy with that?  :)
  • Cheater likes this
Paul Wolcott




#52 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 16 May 2017 - 11:44 PM

Been down hard with some sort of bug for a while.

When I don't work on slots for four days, you know I'm sick. :heat:  First time in about a decade.

Finally found the energy to go to my doc today and he didn't hold back on the meds.

Did some tests and threw a bunch of stuff at it, including antibiotics. Something sure worked.

Got my appetite back within hours, woke from a nap thinking... walk the dog... slot car motors... food... etc.

 

So in goes the Havlicek 26 to its Champion nest. Line-up was perfect, of course.

Mags and shims secured with CA, then buttoned down tight... feels good to be rolling again...

 

IMG_5913.JPG

 

IMG_5918.JPG


  • Jencar17, Samiam and C. J. Bupgoo like this
Paul Wolcott

#53 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 May 2017 - 12:54 AM

Shunted and insulated. A race motor, not a beauty queen.

 

IMG_5923.JPG

 

IMG_5929.JPG

 

Started right up at the click of the dial, zero hesitation - always a great sign of health, especially for a big arm.

Fed 'er 2V and she draws 2.2A. Sounds good so far. Good time to walk the dog

 

IMG_5851.JPG


  • Jencar17, n.elmholt and C. J. Bupgoo like this
Paul Wolcott

#54 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 May 2017 - 01:40 AM

Break in at 2V, she draws about 2.3A for a few mins, then a cooldown.

3V, after a few mins settles down to about 2.3A. Nice and smooth, only mildly warm, about what I'd expect for a big wire arm.

Another cooldown, then fed her some power. Oh yeah, smooth, no heat issues, sounds plenty potent.

 

Motor is done, good to go.  :dance3:  Thanks, John.  :good:


  • havlicek likes this
Paul Wolcott

#55 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,031 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 17 May 2017 - 07:05 AM

It takes a brave man to put a #26 wire arm into an endbell drive Champion, Pablo. Well, to have it actually work takes a skilled man as well! :D


  • tonyp and Lee Palmer like this
John Havlicek

#56 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 17 May 2017 - 09:59 AM

"Tony Stark built one in a cave out of scraps!!!" :laugh2:


  • Jairus likes this
Paul Wolcott

#57 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,031 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 17 May 2017 - 12:56 PM

... while recuperating from heart surgery!


John Havlicek

#58 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,031 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 18 May 2017 - 05:38 AM

One thing I've never fully understood is why some will insulate both the short and the long leg of the springs as in post #54 in the picture above the one of Officer Pooch. Sure, I understand trying to avoid current from passing through and heating up the spring... with the potential for what Rick showed being there, but insulating the long leg should do that, and it's also clear that the short leg of the spring is still often going to be in contact with the brush tube/heatsink where it isn't insulated. Besides, current from the track will only flow in one direction anyway.  


  • JHMerriman likes this
John Havlicek

#59 tonyp

tonyp

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,989 posts
  • Joined: 12-February 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sanford, FL, land of lizards and big roaches

Posted 18 May 2017 - 06:47 AM

John,

 

When I was running that fast stuff we insulated both ends to keep no electricity flowing through it and to insulate it from the heat of brush.


  • havlicek likes this

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

1965 "Evil Bucks Racer" Team
Revtech Team Trinity
Retro East co-founder
American King track single lap world record holder & 40 minute total lap record
First IM Nationals Champion
Arco Champion
Car Model Magazine Series Amateur Champion
2016 ORS Anglewinder Constructors Championsh
ip


#60 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,031 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 18 May 2017 - 06:57 AM

Ahh... so insulating the short leg is to keep the brush heat from heating the brush "spring." That makes sense, Tony. It never occurred to me that the graphite could cause the spring to get hot... duh!   :)  

Thanks!


John Havlicek

#61 tonyp

tonyp

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,989 posts
  • Joined: 12-February 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sanford, FL, land of lizards and big roaches

Posted 18 May 2017 - 07:03 AM

Back in those days you would do anything to get the motors to last. You did not change motors during the race till much later.


"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

1965 "Evil Bucks Racer" Team
Revtech Team Trinity
Retro East co-founder
American King track single lap world record holder & 40 minute total lap record
First IM Nationals Champion
Arco Champion
Car Model Magazine Series Amateur Champion
2016 ORS Anglewinder Constructors Championsh
ip


#62 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,031 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 18 May 2017 - 12:07 PM

Or... "brush spring." Edited!   :)  

 

In any case, graphite is (I think) a pretty good conductor of heat, so insulating the short leg seems like a good insurance policy!


John Havlicek

#63 MSwiss

MSwiss

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Advertiser
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,863 posts
  • Joined: 16-April 06
  • Gender:Male

Posted 18 May 2017 - 12:43 PM

When I was running that fast stuff we insulated both ends to keep no electricity flowing through it and to insulate it from the heat of brush

 

Except in this case, and probably in yours, the cup was hot, both literally and figuratively.

I always insulated the short end of the spring to better hold the shunt, in place.

I quit insulating the long end, because I felt it just made it easier for the spring to get knocked off of the hook.

To insulate the spring, electrically, you need those Camen machined phenolic spring cups,that didn't seem to be around for very long.


Mike Swiss
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516


#64 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 18 May 2017 - 01:23 PM

Decals arrived:

 

IMG_5940.JPG


  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott

#65 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 22 May 2017 - 08:32 PM

Tongue doubler attached; now I have a .050" drop arm.

 

IMG_6021.JPG

 

IMG_6016.JPG

 

Close enough.  :D

 

IMG_6011.JPG


  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott

#66 Martin

Martin

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 458 posts
  • Joined: 22-February 09
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:U.S.

Posted 23 May 2017 - 03:19 PM

Holy lamination, Batman. I would liked to have seen how you did that, pretty tricky.

 

Good to see some brass action. :good:


  • Mr. M likes this
Martin Windmill

#67 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 23 May 2017 - 04:48 PM

Thanks, Martin.  :)

 

The answer is, I could have simply laid a tinned oversize piece of .015" over the entire arm, minitorched it then trimmed it.

 

But in the interest of easier trimming of the rectangular void, and using less heat to solder it, I made it in two parts.

I tacked the halves together, tacked the edges in place a la Mike Steube, scribed lines for the void, then removed.

 

Broke them back in half, nibbled the void lines, tinned 'em, slathered 'em in acid, and layed 'em down.

Secured with about six small alligator clips, elevated it above a block, and hit it with a minitorch.

 

When cool, I gave all edges a final trim with disc sander, files, elbow grease, and 400 and 2,000 grit sandpapers.

 

Plumber hinge tubes and strengthener bits, and the .055" 'nerf bar' as Bob called it, are done.

 

IMG_6027.JPG

 

IMG_6023.JPG


  • Jencar17 and C. J. Bupgoo like this
Paul Wolcott

#68 Martin

Martin

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 458 posts
  • Joined: 22-February 09
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:U.S.

Posted 24 May 2017 - 12:29 AM

Good solution, Paul.

 

I am still thinking about buying some .050" brass to play with. I put the Pro in procrastination. 

 

 

I admire your "go for it" style. Build on.


Martin Windmill

#69 mike1972chev

mike1972chev

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 196 posts
  • Joined: 02-April 17
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Indy

Posted 24 May 2017 - 04:59 AM

Mr. Pablo does great work!  

 

I just ordered some .050" brass sheet Monday for my first build. (Well,it is supposed to be around .050" anyway. We will see???)  My first car will be an entry level, "beginner" build to practice a bit. You know I will be asking questions.   :)

 

Do you have a favorite outlet to get piano/music wire?  


Michael J. Boruff


#70 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 24 May 2017 - 08:38 AM

Slot car raceways usually carry it.


Paul Wolcott

#71 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 24 May 2017 - 02:23 PM

All jigged up with jig motor and notched tube.

I found the worst 32t Cox spur I had for a jig gear so I can just leave it there for the duration then trash it.
 
IMG_6034.JPG
  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott

#72 havlicek

havlicek

    OCD Rewinder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,031 posts
  • Joined: 20-August 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NY

Posted 24 May 2017 - 03:09 PM

Mr. Pablo does great work!  
 
I just ordered some .050" brass sheet Monday for my first build. (Well,it is supposed to be around .050" anyway. We will see???)  My first car will be an entry level, "beginner" build to practice a bit. You know I will be asking questions.   :)
 
Do you have a favorite outlet to get piano/music wire?

 
If and only if your local raceway doesn't have what you need, this place has a wide selection and fair prices:

Hobbylinc
John Havlicek

#73 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 25 May 2017 - 10:09 PM

That's it for today. No problems so far, other than trying to understand the mag article. :dash2: :laugh2:
 
IMG_6040.JPG
  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott

#74 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 26 May 2017 - 01:51 PM

The article calls for the rear section rails to be cut 1/2" forward of the angled cross wire on each side.

It doesn't make any sense to me why they would be staggered and I see nothing stopping me from making them even.

 

So I did it like Jairus and cut them equal length slightly forward of the drop arm hinge.

 

IMG_6042.JPG

 

 

 


  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott

#75 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,492 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou, Mississippi Gulf Coast

Posted 26 May 2017 - 06:00 PM

Here is a classic example of why I always check my rods and wires for straightness.
Went to make a pair of .055" outer wire rails and they were not even close.
 
IMG_6044.JPG
 
No problem. Discard and check another length from the pack of nine 12" lengths.
Bad, bad, bad all really bad. So bad I didn't even need a dial checker.
 
The whole batch is bent, and not in just one spot. No big deal, only $2.50 worth of parts.
My point is, anything mass-produced has flaws - maybe you don't check yours.
 
Maybe it would explain why some chassis are simply deemed "evil handlers." :o :D
  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott





Electric Dreams Online Shop