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Beginners need help for an office competition


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#1 Steve Lewis

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 01:52 AM

Hi there,
 
A group of us from work have enrolled in an office competition where we put together a slot car and race it against other office teams.  We're all pretty excited about it, but unfortunately none of the people in my group have any experience building slot cars so we have no idea where to start. We're likely going to fabricate the shell of the car to match a fun theme, but we don't really know what basic parts to get (frame, tires, motor, etc...). We have a budget of around $175. Here's some event restrictions:
  • 1/24 Scale Car
  • 55' Track (1/4 mi Drag Race)
  • Max Size 9"L x 3.25"W x 3"H
  • Max Weight 12oz
  • Track Power: Input ac100-125v 60hz 100w. Output: dc18v 2x21 .6VA Amps: 30A across both lanes.
  • Track Guide Minimum 1/4"
  • Guide Rail and pickup assemblies: 1/24
An F1 frame is preferred as it best matches our theme, but anything will likely work. Any ideas to get the best bang for our buck?
 
Thanks in advance! :)
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#2 slotbaker

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 02:48 AM

Sounds like you're going to need something reasonably simple, if you just going to have a drag race comp.
There is a miriad of parts available from quite a few great suppliers.

Have you investigated to see if there is a commercial track in your area?
That would be a good place to start, as the track owner would be able to help with all your parts needs, and provide the technical knowhow to boot.

If there are no commercial tracks handy, check out Professor Motor, or PCH, (for starters) to get an idea of what to look for.

What does that $175 cover?  Each car, or the whole series??

:huh:


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#3 Samiam

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 06:25 AM

Are Parma Edge cars still available? They would make a good start. Use Pro-Slot sealed S16-D motors. Best bang for the buck.  Then send everyone to Michael's or a similar store for a car model of their choice. They offer 40% off coupons. Their variety is a little limited though.

 

A spec tire and gear set will make things easier too. But you're going to need a local Pro to show how to set up the car. Things like gear mesh can be tricky.


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#4 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 02:11 PM

Is this heads up racing, or bracket racing on the 1/24 scale quarter mile drag strip?
 
You should strive for a light car, and put a strong motor in it if you are heads-up racing.
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#5 Dave Crevie

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 02:49 PM

Right, for drag racing the Parma Edge is the best for the price. A couple years ago I ordered four cars (through Mike Swiss) and got them very quickly, so I would guess they are still plentiful.

 

You can get them RTR with a 16D or Super 16D. All you need to do is tuning, and, after all, that is all that should be done in a spec series.



#6 Mattb

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 03:07 PM

Bear in mind aero is as important in 1/24 as in full size cars. A narrow and low body is real important if you are running heads-up.
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#7 Steve Lewis

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 07:50 PM

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.  This is helpful to get us started.

 

 

Is this heads up racing, or bracket racing on the 1/24 scale quarter mile drag strip?

This is heads up racing.

 

 

What does that $175 cover?  Each car, or the whole series??

This covers the parts for my group's car.

 

 

Have you investigated to see if there is a commercial track in your area?

This is the Los Angeles area.  I'll take a look.



#8 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 07:56 PM

Buena Park Raceway Rocks!  

 

Go as lightweight as you can, and with as much motor and gears as you can get to hook up...Good Luck.

 

Can you buy a stock drag car ready to run and modify it?  (Parma Edge - chassis and body with axles, gears, guide flag and braid, etc)


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#9 Mike Patterson

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 09:35 PM

Where is the race being held? If it is being run at commercial raceway, I would tell you to call them or visit the track and check things out in person. They should be able to give you the best advice.


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#10 Robert BG

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 11:02 PM

I would definitely recommend visiting a raceway if possible before you start buying stuff.It will give you a much better start.Then once you've got some ideas,come back and we'll help you hash them out.

 

Although it's going to be a stretch on the budget I'd definitely try and go with a C can motor like a group 12 or 20 if you can.They truly fly and there's no replacement for HP in a heads up race ;)

You mentioned F-1 bodies so here's a link to a few that are available http://www.shoppscr..../formula-1-indy

 

Also here's a link to the Parma Edge kit mentioned earlier http://www.shoppscr....kit-P582K.htmlI

It's a little more then some of the other starter chassis.But it has everything minus the body and motor.

d

As far as motors go,skip the 16D and Super 16D's mentioned earlier.Yes they are cheap and great starter motors that do very well in bracket racing.dThing is you are racing heads up so you'll want as much power as possible anda group 20 is going to be tough to beat.Prices are all over the map but this Proslot sshould do the trick  http://www.shoppscr....bb-PS101BB.html

Or even better for your use and budget would be this one here http://www.shoppscr....motor-P456.html


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#11 Steve Lewis

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 11:41 PM

Where is the race being held? If it is being run at commercial raceway, I would tell you to call them or visit the track and check things out in person. They should be able to give you the best advice.

The event organizer will be setting up the track at the office for the event.

 

I would definitely recommend visiting a raceway if possible before you start buying stuff.It will give you a much better start.Then once you've got some ideas,come back and we'll help you hash them out.

 

Although it's going to be a stretch on the budget I'd definitely try and go with a C can motor like a group 12 or 20 if you can.They truly fly and there's no replacement for HP in a heads up race ;)

You mentioned F-1 bodies so here's a link to a few that are available http://www.shoppscr..../formula-1-indy

 

Also here's a link to the Parma Edge kit mentioned earlier http://www.shoppscr....kit-P582K.htmlI

It's a little more then some of the other starter chassis.But it has everything minus the body and motor.

d

As far as motors go,skip the 16D and Super 16D's mentioned earlier.Yes they are cheap and great starter motors that do very well in bracket racing.dThing is you are racing heads up so you'll want as much power as possible anda group 20 is going to be tough to beat.Prices are all over the map but this Proslot sshould do the trick  http://www.shoppscr....bb-PS101BB.html

Or even better for your use and budget would be this one here http://www.shoppscr....motor-P456.html

Thanks for all the suggestions.  The faster, the better!

 

Buena Park Raceway Rocks!  

 

Go as lightweight as you can, and with as much motor and gears as you can get to hook up...Good Luck.

 

Can you buy a stock drag car ready to run and modify it?  (Parma Edge - chassis and body with axles, gears, guide flag and braid, etc)

 

We might be able to check out BPR, thanks.  We can buy a stock car if needed.



#12 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 09:04 AM

After you get the chassis and motor figured out, tires and gears will make you win or lose.  Go to BPR and test that car - on the parma edge, I'd put .500 wide in the rear, and try gearing 14/52?  you'll also need glue and a glue board - go to BPR and they will dial you in - go there when they are racing drags, someone will help you with setup and testing.  Ask them for gear and tire recommendations too!

 

Also, go to the track you will race on after you get the car initially setup.  Test the car there so that you know the wheelie bar setting is good - track braid depth may change track to track, therefore adjusting the wheelie bar is necessary.  Ask for help - you'll get some.

 

Testing will also tell you what the car needs at the starting line (staging).  Adding lots of glue may or may not make the elapsed time go down...


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#13 Steve Deiters

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 09:46 AM

Are your Steve Lewis formerly with PRI show?



#14 Joe Mig

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 10:39 AM

What are you getting for 175.00?
Are they supplying the parts and you have to build it from there?
Can you buy a car that is built or have someone build you the car?
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#15 PCH Parts Express

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 03:08 PM

Edge cars are still on the market


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#16 slotbaker

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 03:15 PM

 

Track Power: Input ac100-125v 60hz 100w. Output: dc18v 2x21 .6VA Amps: 30A across both lanes.

Looks like plenty of good suggestions coming through.

 

Curious to know, is the proposed powere source going to handle the motors that have been suggested?

:huh:


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#17 Steve Lewis

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 06:51 PM

I'd put .500 wide in the rear, and try gearing 14/52? 

Can you explain what you mean about gearing and 14/52?

 

Are your Steve Lewis formerly with PRI show?

Nope, not me.

 

What are you getting for 175.00?
Are they supplying the parts and you have to build it from there?
Can you buy a car that is built or have someone build you the car?

We were not supplied with anything.  We can buy a stock car or build from parts.

 

Looks like plenty of good suggestions coming through.

 

Curious to know, is the proposed powere source going to handle the motors that have been suggested?

:huh:

That is a good question.  We're currently looking at the ProSlot Sportsman 550 which was linked earlier.

 

Thanks all for the continued feedback, it's super helpful. :)



#18 slotbaker

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 06:57 PM

Hope you're going to share some piccies with us, of what you ended up with.

:)


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#19 Joe Mig

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 09:13 PM

I would hook up with someone that builds cars and have one built. Maybe a slipjoint dragster. 1/24th or 1/25th they are so close in size.
Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

"Drive it like you're in it!!!"

"If everything feels under control... you are not going fast enough!"

Some people are like Slinkies... they're really good for nothing... but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

#20 Mattb

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 09:17 PM

I don't do any drag racing, so I may not have a clue about this stuff, but it looks like they would have been assigned a spec motor the same  and maybe even a spec frame.   Just a thought.


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#21 Samiam

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Posted 16 May 2017 - 09:32 PM

  That's what I thought. But it appears the only spec is $175.

 

  Is this retail $ or can parts be alternatively sourced ? I'll sell him a $25 C-Can set-up and he can stuff a H-Power smoke packed arm in it that will suck amps like Charlie Sheen snorting coke off a hooker's butt.


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#22 Robert BG

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 12:23 AM

I just noticed the power supply specs myself and I'm thinking a Group 12 might be a better choice then the 20 I recommended earlier.I'm going to ask a friend of mine who drag races to be sure.

 

Also Scott at PCH has used cars on his website.I dont know if there are dragsters but it might be worth a shot.You could also call Speedzone in NJ as I know they usually have a used RTR drag car or 2 in the case for sale too.


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#23 Mattb

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 08:06 AM

They might be going counter to the goal here if they just buy a car and don't create something as a team.   


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#24 Robert BG

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 11:40 AM

Matt,I agree and the reason I mentioned the used cars was a source of cheap parts and as a working example to work/learn from.


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#25 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 02:21 PM

I ran .640 with a 67 gram DRS C-10 chassis, and a lexan .10 thick 57 chevy body with a small downforce wing added - velociraptor bb motor!

(16.5 volts, 100 amp bulldog power supply per lane)  Cost of materials right at $175...but I had a pro build the car - Tem Raskin w Slot Car Drags Orlando.

 

It took a few times at the track to get the thing to hookup - finally got small hub .435 wide DRS tires that hooked w clear drag glue.  After about 20 of these fast times, the motor needed a re-fresh.

 

I have an 87 gram similar car with a gp 20 arm, vette pro mod lexan body w small downforce wing - she dials .875 sec. 

 

Go as light as you can, and with as much motor as you can afford in your budget.

 

Spending some recon time at the track will be invaluable to your chances of winning.


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