Building a mag-frame Cox Chaparral 2E
Posted 09 May 2008 - 02:43 PM
I thought I would post and share the progression of this mag-frame 1/24 Cox Chaparral 2E that I'm currently working on. I made some modifications in order for it to look like one of the Chaparral 2Es that Jim Hall had driven in the '60s.
By looking at the photos you can see that I have added front spoilers, side pods, and side spoilers for the wing in order for it to look reasonably close to the original car. I used Cox Chaparral 2C side pods and cut them down a little and I believe they look pretty close. I added the front spoiler by using thick styrene and simply cutting the shape I wanted and then slowly sanding and shaping the spoiler until it looked right to the eye. I used regular cheap super glue as a filler for any little gaps and sanded til smooth.
The Cox Chaparral 2E plastic body is very lightweight and really easy to work with so it was real easy to take out mold lines and correct any imperfections. The body was painted with Tamiya grey primer so I could spot any problems with the body because grey primer shows imperfections real well.
After one last coat of Tamiya grey primer to check the body, I sand the 2E and get it ready for the white primer. Once ready, I primer the car white because I'll be using a white gloss from Tamiya (T-7). Below are photos of the finished white primer body. I made some more modifications to the side pods which work and look better. After that I primer again and get ready for painting.
Painting the body. I'll spray two thin mist coats from a can of Tamiya TS-7 Racing white. TS-7 is a great white to use here because it gives you a creamier white and that vintage look. After leaving it for an hour I'll go ahead and spray a nice liberal coat and leave it overnight. The next day I hit with one more good liberal coat and that's it. Done.
The pictures below show the car painted and the decals have been placed. You can also see a hand blower that photographers use to blow dust off a lens or small products. This blower is great for blowing water off the body after it's been washed. After decals are placed and dried overnight then it's time for me to clean the car real well. I clean all glue from the decals and I'm real careful here not tear or scratch the decals. I keep cleaning until the body is spotless. I use the hand blower and being very careful not to blow off the decals. I also add any details to the body - i.e. the black around the cockpit and fenders (see pics below this set of photos), once this is done I'll get the body ready for clear coat.
Pictures below - Clear-coating a body with decals on it... In order for me not to shrink the decals when clear coating, I have to spray thin coats of clear every hour or so for about a day, (about ten thin coats) then I'll leave it overnight and spray heavier coats until I'm satisfied. I can use up to one to two cans of Tamiya Clear coat TS-13 on a body. Once the body is clear-coated and dried for three days, it's time to polish the body with Tamiya compounds. I use coarse, fine, and finish. I use a Microbrush and cotton Swisspers to polish the car. I'll polish the body until it's smooth. I'll use the Microbrush to get into small areas and hard to reach areas. I'm prepared to spend a lot of time in this area because the results are very rewarding. Once I'm satisfied with the body I'll go ahead and paint the inside of the body with matte black. This just gives it a nice clean look and gets rid of any overspray.
Posted 09 May 2008 - 03:12 PM
Below are photos of the cockpit with the driver set in with detailed seat belts. I painted the seats blue and then I used matte black for the surrounding area.
Posted 09 May 2008 - 03:35 PM
The screen needed to be cleaned-up because of the amount of scratches it had. I started to clean up the screen with Detail Master cloth sandpaper using all the grit sizes. The photos below show the screen completely sanded with the heaviest grit (3200).
The 2E screen, part two.
Once the screen was sanded, I polished the screen with NOVUS scratch remover 1 to 3. I may have spent a hour or two on the glass polishing. I then started to detail the screen. I masked off the screen and painted a matte black border line and then detailed it with photo-etched bolt clips. I painted in the door line.
Posted 09 May 2008 - 03:54 PM
I used masking tape to make a stencil of the back vents. I then put the tape on some plastic styrene and cut the shape out. I had some etched parts from a Fisher Chaparral 2E and cut them to size. Once I was happy with the fit (this took a little time to get the piece to fit right). I also had to take into consideration of the thickness of the paint for the fit. I then painted and detailed vents with etched bolts.
Rear adjustable spoiler
All I did here is cut some thick plastic styrene and measured and cut the holes and painted and clear-coated. I polished with compound until smooth and then detail the spoiler with etched bolts.
Posted 09 May 2008 - 04:02 PM
Once again I used masking tape to make a stencil of the back vents. I then put the tape on some plastic styrene and cut the shape out. I had some etched parts from a Fisher Chaparral 2E and cut them to size. I painted them silver.
Posted 09 May 2008 - 04:09 PM
By now I would have smashed the damn thing in a fit of rage and thrown it all away, due to my lack of patience and talent.
Then I would go watch TV.
It's better to be at the Devil's right hand than in his path
Posted 09 May 2008 - 09:31 PM
Absolutely amazing, Chris!
"Prosecutors will be violated"
Posted 09 May 2008 - 09:51 PM
Where did you get a Cox Chaparral 2E?
Posted 10 May 2008 - 01:28 AM
Now that is a slot car. If you had another seven like that on the track, who cares what the voltage is.
AKA : TWO LAP CONROY, Anointed Trigger Monkey by Mike Swiss
Deal me life's toughest cards, without chance for hope nor fame, just let me play this one last hand, and I'll win this whole damn game.
Second Most Interesting Man in the World.
Posted 10 May 2008 - 02:22 AM
As I said in a reply to a different thread, I could see paying $16,000 for something like this, rather than an unassembled original Cox 2E kit. Wonderful detailing.
[ "Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not his own facts.". . Daniel Patrick Moynihan ]
[ "Time is the best teacher. Unfortunately, it kills all its students.". . . . . . . . Hector Berlioz ]
[ "There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness." . . . . . . . . . . . Dave Barry ]
[ "Build what you like to build, they are all doomed." . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Prof. Fate ]
[ "The less rules the more fun. Run what you brung." . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Larry LS ]
Posted 10 May 2008 - 08:52 AM
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
Posted 10 May 2008 - 09:25 AM
Fantastic build and a sure Concours winner!!
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - email@example.com
Posted 10 May 2008 - 10:24 AM
My all-time favorite race car.
Posted 11 May 2008 - 03:47 PM
Posted 11 May 2008 - 04:21 PM
Posted 11 May 2008 - 04:34 PM
Posted 12 May 2008 - 10:12 PM
Your car is...
(enjoy the next eight years)
Posted 13 May 2008 - 04:58 AM
Chris, once I get a 2E, I will now have a usefull DIY guide to refer to. Thanks for this ! This is a really splendid car.
Now, between you and me : are you sure the interior was black (with blue seats) ? I thought the whole was dark blue ?
Moreover, wasn't the screen riveted rather than screwed ?
I do not ask for my future 2E (with some chance I may get one someday) it's because I'm jealous...
And just for the fun... why didn't you made hundreds of holes in the front wings ?
Posted 13 May 2008 - 11:51 AM
Posted 14 May 2008 - 03:44 AM
No, Chris, you didn't fully understand me (maybe because of my poor English).
I'm glad you liked the car.
I do not like it, I adoooooooore it! I want to have my cars look the same...
Posted 14 May 2008 - 07:39 AM
But the fact that you would take the time to share your finishing secrets is extremely generous to say the least.