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Another month, another inline chassis - AMT Viper RT-10


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#1 robbovius

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 08:53 AM

So, back inthe day when the Dodge Viper was initially released, I was all about it, and bought a couple AMT/ERTL model kits with the Idea that i would build a pair of static models, one stock and one souped up, and got started on one, but like, that never happened. 

 

fast forward to my renewed enthusiasm for slots, and the success of Pam's Pink Corvette, and well, out is the direction in which the old Viper model kits were dragged.

 

Initially this Viper build  was going to be powered by a Parma Deathstar...

 

20170510_142152.jpg

 

(what's become the usual REHCO motor bracket, 1/8 main tubes, fwd .25 x.063 crossbar)

 

...but  - fast fwd a couple weeks - once I added the top tubes, the  16D can didn't fit any more, so it was back to the mini-cans I've been using. I was just going to install one of the Falcon TSR 7s I have, but really wanted to try something else, so I bought a couple H&R Lightning (40K rpm) motors, and dedicated one of those to the proj.

 

In this build, I thought I'd try something different than the usual 2X side screw body mounting. 

In the pic below, (from about last friday) you'll see that there's a sheet of styrene glued into body to creat a "floor", and that the chassis has a pair of pans soldered to the main tubes You can also see the drop arm with limiter. 

 

20170526_195852.jpg

 

the mounting plan is pretty obvious I expect...drill some holes in the pans, and screw thru to the body floor (after sectioning for chassis clearance) with some #2 self-tappers...

 

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Doesn't look too bad, except for the front tires...

 

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The front tires stuck out about .19 on a side, so I thought why not narrow them, and give them the Black Sharpie treatment. Thus out to the drill press we went ...

 

I marked the cut line on the tires, chucked one up in the drill press on an axle, and then cut the foam with a untility knife. Peeled off the outer tire at the cut line, and then held a hacksaw blade against the rim as it spun in the drill press. Can't argue with the results...

 

20170529_140614.jpg

 

 

...and effect the ritual application of black sharpie...

 

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...and put the whole thing together.

 

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You may have noticed that along the way, that flat crossbar at the front got deleted and some bent brass rod has taken its place, to make room for drop arm movement. yup. 

 

lastly for fun I set an old, really old, like mid-1970s old, unfinished custom Lotus Europa sports racer body on to see if it would fit, but it looks like I need to make another chassis for that. ;-)

 

Love those body-putty fender flares, right? 

 

20170529_152453b.JPG

 

At any rate, on to the body!


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#2 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 12:03 PM

Robb, this chassis looks nice. It's a real clean build. Your front tires look like new. :) I have a friend up here who narrowed both foam tires & the hubs using an X-acto knife & a variable speed drill. I never tried it that way because I had a mini-lathe.  If you still wanted to use your rail chassis design with a 16D size motor, you could always bend those upper rails outward at the rear for motor clearance.This might be something to use on your next build. In the meantime, keep us updated as your Viper build progresses & show photos once it's painted. Did you realize once there were Viper arms & slot car motors? Some might still be around, but they went out of business about 2010.


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#3 robbovius

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 01:16 PM

Thanks Bill, with each one, I learn a little more, get a litle better at the soldering. 

 

This one is soldered with the 97/3 silver bearing, except for the pans which are on there with 60/40.

 

I went around the chassis with my dremel and small wire brushes, and boy, did the brass and silver clean up nicely. 

 

I have one more REHCO motor bracket, and on this, and the Texaco Vanwall, i've found that the axle bushing mounts can be pretty easily bent and thus misaligned. I have one more left which I'm going to reinforce with some other brass. I think I'm going to take a stab at making my own motor bracket on one of these builds. 

 

I'm defeintely doing the sharpie rejuvenation on the Vanwall fronts now ;-) 



#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 09:43 PM

Robb, here's a link on inline motor bracket bracing. You got a choice how to do it. None are necessarily better than the others.

 

http://slotblog.net/...racket-bracing/


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#5 robbovius

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 11:41 AM

excellent, thanks for the link!



#6 SpeedyNH

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 04:30 PM

do you use those for bracket racing? :D


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#7 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 05:02 PM

Speedy, are you referring to the REHCO motor brackets? If so, then yes they could be used on drag cars. They come with screw holes that fit the small Hemi cans as well as some that fit 16D & C-cans. The bearing/bushing hole is 6mm. To fit "FK type" sealed motors, new horizonral mounting holes are needed, That's what Robb did for his build above. Their part number is REH 3000.


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#8 SpeedyNH

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Posted 07 June 2017 - 08:37 PM

that was just a bad pun, son. (even though you're probably about as old as I am.) ...Bracket BRacing- I couldn't resist- you know me! lol

just got back from travel- we should get together sometime and bench race, my friend.

speed


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#9 robbovius

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Posted 08 June 2017 - 06:14 AM

ha ha, I got it. ;-)  I might finally get some track time this weekend for the Texaco Vanwall, and the AMT RT-10. don't think I'll have the body on the Viper done by then but it'll be good enough to blast around the track.



#10 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 June 2017 - 06:59 AM

Speedy, I never thought of it that way, but all the scratchbuilt retro cars could be called "bracket-racing." :)  Yes, we'll have to get together some time.


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