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Hawk 7 break-in


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#26 gatormark

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 06:01 AM

Gents, would it be OK to clean Hawk 7s with parts cleaner, i.e. brake parts cleaner?


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#27 Greg VanPeenen

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 04:22 PM

Brake clean not good. You can use automotive electrical cleaner made by CRC like you would use motor sprays.
 
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#28 rodslot53

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 12:48 PM

Once you have run in the motor, what amps should it be drawing at 4V. The higher the better?

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#29 Greg VanPeenen

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 08:18 PM

Depends on the style of motor. Retro Hawk, Hawk 7, Pro Slot 4002 FK, etc. If the motor is running free, and is lubed properly a higher number is most often better. But be sure you have motor brushes left. 


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#30 Fast Freddie

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Posted 08 June 2017 - 10:31 AM

Caution!!! This is just a caution note for anyone using the Simple Green break-in method. 

 

I used this method on some of my HR motors and while Matt Bruce is correct in everyway there's something racers need to know. I did the procedure exactly the way Matt said to do it but found out that an additional step should be included. 

 

The next day I went back through the motors on the power supply and I lit one up. It smoked and lit up like a candle but didn't burn up. I came to realize that because a lot of brush material had been removed, in order to fully seat the brushes, some of the material got caught up in the comm slots and had created a shorting effect. When I cleaned out the slots the motor ran fine. 

 

So I would suggest that if you decide to use this method make sure the comm slots are cleaned out before you test-run the motor. I believe the reason the comm slots collect the material is because of the final 2 minute process Matt suggests. During the 2 minute run-in I had no indication anything was wrong. Even though you flush out the motor with motor cleaner some of the Simple Green remains behind under the brushes and maybe even in the comm slots. 

 

So just be aware that this can happen. 


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#31 Samiam

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Posted 08 June 2017 - 10:35 AM

This is why y'all should look into one of these:

 

Otoscopes


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#32 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 08 June 2017 - 10:49 AM

I came to possess a Retro Hawk the other day that had been run a good bit but was not fully broken in.

 

 Long story short I hooked it up at about 4 volts and used a spray bottle of Simple Green to spray in the motor as it ran for about 5 seconds. It took two rounds of spray but the brushes seated and everything cleaned up great. I took the motor in and ran water through it for several minutes then blew it out with air and a round of motor cleaner.

 

 I have not tried it yet but it looks great.


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#33 eAddict

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 04:17 PM

Matt's Simple Green method works the fastest and does the best job. Cleans out the motor at the same time. I run them in water just 2 or 3 seconds after the Simple Green to clean the Simple Green out. Blow dry and oil. Every Retro Hawk and Hawk 7 motor has run great doing this break-in.

 

I'd love to see video or photos of this in action. I can't imagine running current in anything like water.  



#34 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 09:14 PM

Vince, water, and other liquids have been used for quick brush break-in for years.

 

Have you read any of the late Monty Ohren's posts on OWH?


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#35 eAddict

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 12:54 PM

Vince, water & other liquids have been used for quick brush break-in for years.Have you read any of the late Monty Ohren's posts on OWH?

 

I haven't been on OWH in years. Guess it it time to revisit.

 

I would just like to witness the process first.   :D



#36 MSwiss

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 01:02 PM

It's nothing dramatic.

I'm not sure what would happen if you put unconnected leads in the water, at 3-5v, but the with leads connected, there isn't an issue with non-flammable liquid.

Why it's not dangerous, it's low voltage.

It's not like dropping a 110V hair dryer in the bathtub.


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#37 gatormark

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 01:31 PM

Would you get the same effect hooking the pinion shaft to a high speed dril? I don't have a variable DC power supply.


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#38 MSwiss

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 01:37 PM

Mechanically breaking-in a motor takes forever.


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#39 gatormark

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 02:32 PM

I have no other way, no power supply. I will put some time on it and slap it in the ole Koford chassis and let 'er rip. Only so many hours in a day.


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Mark Conner

#40 Greg VanPeenen

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 03:50 PM

Mark,

 

Buy two C cell batteries, wire them together to get 3 volts, make up a couple of jumper wires clip to motor. Dip motor in a container of Simple Green. Let run for 10 to 15 seconds. Remove from Simple Green dip motor in container of water let run for 10 seconds and remove. Look at brushes repeat if needed. Rinse motor with motor spray blow out. Install in car, oil, run.

 

You should be able to do many motors before batteries die. 

 

Regards,

 

Greg VanPeenen


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#41 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 03:50 PM

A three-battery set gives you about 4.5 volts.

 

Probably kill the batteries quick but if they are rechargeable no problem.

 

I have never tried it to see how long they would last.

 

Or like Greg said.


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#42 zipper

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 04:38 PM

D-cells (LR20) give about 12000-18000 mAh  (Alkaline) - quite a lot for a Hawk break-in, several hours. Two or three in series.


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#43 gatormark

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 05:59 AM

Thanks, gents. I appreciate it.


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#44 TallyBernie

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 10:37 AM

All,

 

Following this with interest.  I remember breaking in motors using different solutions well over forty years ago. I even recall Champion (of Chamblee) selling a wide-mouth pint jar of solvent for motor cleaning and break in. 

 

I just tried the Simple Green method and admit disappointment. I ran a new Hawk 7 in Simple Green for 10 secs, followed by 5 sec in distilled water, at 1.5v. The brushes looked seated. The motor was then cleaned with Pure, blown dry, oiled, and then placed in the car, at which point it ran as if it had never been out of the package. However, between 100-150 laps the motor slowly gained speed until it reached the performance point I expected. 

 

Leaves me wondering if I had my Simple Green concentrate too diluted to be effective. I diluted it 10:1:Water:Simple Green, recommended for general purpose cleaning (side of bottle). Is anyone diluting the concentrate as I did or are all who use this method using concentrate right from the bottle? 

 

Thanks.


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#45 Racer36

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 10:44 AM

I used my Simple Green right out of the bottle and the brushes were perfect in 10 seconds.


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#46 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 12:55 PM

Simple Green comes ready to use in a spray bottle and concentrated.

Which are you guys using?


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#47 Ralph Thorne

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 01:04 PM

Following this with interest.  I remember breaking in motors using different solutions well over forty years ago. I even recall Champion (of Chamblee) selling a wide-mouth pint jar of solvent for motor cleaning and break in. 

 

I just tried the Simple Green method and admit disappointment. I ran a new Hawk 7 in Simple Green for 10 secs, followed by 5 sec in distilled water, at 1.5v. The brushes looked seated. The motor was then cleaned with Pure, blown dry, oiled, and then placed in the car, at which point it ran as if it had never been out of the package. However, between 100-150 laps the motor slowly gained speed until it reached the performance point I expected. 

 

Leaves me wondering if I had my Simple Green concentrate too diluted to be effective. I diluted it 10:1:Water:Simple Green, recommended for general purpose cleaning (side of bottle). Is anyone diluting the concentrate as I did or are all who use this method using concentrate right from the bottle? 

 

IMO There's absolutely no way the brushes would be seated after only 10 seconds at 1.5 volts. Try 6 volts for 10 seconds, that's what I do with no issues. To seat the brush fully you have to wear through the "wrong radius" and create your own new radius that properly fits the comm. When this is achieved you will be almost out of brush visually, but the motor will still have some life left in it.


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#48 TallyBernie

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 01:42 PM

Thank you Ralph, I'll give that a try. I admit my vision on small parts like this is not optimal. I even recently purchased a cheap otoscope to help me see motor brushes better!!

Thanks again,

Bernie


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#49 TallyBernie

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 01:44 PM

BTW, do you think the concentrate vs. diluted SG plays a role in the break-in?

 

I'm using a diluted concentrate, 10 parts water to 1 part SG.


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#50 Racer36

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 02:35 PM

My Simple Green is in a spray bottle.

 

I broke in the first one at 3 volts for 15 seconds and the brushes were half gone. I did the second at 3 volts for 10 seconds and it is perfect.

 

I think 6 volts for 10 seconds is going to be a problem, as in worn-out brushes.


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