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Bandit AYK-style 26D


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 06:47 PM

Body is a Bandit by Ray Fellows, nice and thin - about 10 thou.

Chassis is a Japanese AYK. I'll need to build a 26D motor for it.

Anybody know what the "U" wire is for?

 

IMG_6330.JPG

 

What is this little ball on the motor bracket face, plated solder schmegma, or a speed secret from 1966? :laugh2:

 

IMG_6333.JPG


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Paul Wolcott




#2 Samiam

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 08:14 PM

Looks like a spring to load the drop arm. The schmutz is errant solder. 


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 08:28 PM

Thanks Sam. I figured it was a ball of solder. Very interesting, the total lack of any quality control :crazy:

Not only was the soldering sloppy, they plated over the mistakes :laugh2:

 

I'd like to see a photo of how the "U" wire was actually used, if anybody has one.

But I won't lose any sleep over it :)


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#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 08:31 PM

That little ball is a Japanese signature (Mr. Ball-san) used by the chassis builder because his kana didn't fit on the bracket Notice how roughly the bracket is soldered to the mainrails.  The wire may be for a spring as Sam says, but I can't recall seeing it ever used on one of these chassis.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#5 Pablo

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 09:34 PM

:laugh2:  My Samurai x-acto is about ready to remove the little ball flaw :laugh2:


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#6 Samiam

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 08:30 AM

There is a spring like that on a Russkit car I have. Sits on top and loops under drop arm hinge pin then hooks into chassis. This one looks like some sort of bend will be needed to hook onto frame rails. 


Sam Levitch
 
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#7 mjsh

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 09:06 AM

​Blobs didn't matter as the 26D is endbell drive and thusly had enough clearance. I think the plated chassis was only 2.98  retail. I think the extra piano wire gives you the option to lengthen the drop arm..

I guess the wire is supposed to slip into the tubing, but not sure how to do that after the plating.


Michael Shepard

#8 TSR

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 04:32 PM

The piece of wire was to be used for various, undefined, possible options described on the Champion catalog, here is the page: 

270.jpg
 


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#9 Pablo

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 05:15 PM

Thanks Doc, that explains it 100% :victory:

Kudos to Champion for encouraging racers to think and modify.

 

On mine, I think I'll just leave it stock. If more strength is needed I'll just build a complete chassis for it myself.


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#10 bluecars

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 08:06 PM

Saw "building a complete chassis" coming a mile away. :D


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#11 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 09:25 PM

If that wire is bent properly, it'll provide space to mount the "Pablo" plaque. :)


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#12 Pablo

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 04:45 PM

Saw "building a complete chassis" coming a mile away. :D

 

Truer words were never spoken, Red, you nailed it.

I didn't realize how bad it was until I laid it on the block and realized the drop arm weight was about .032" below ground zero.

The rear axle tubes are so badly misaligned they cannot be bent straight. Etc.

 

So I'll have Cheater change the name of my thread to "Bandit AYK-style 26D", and use as many stock pieces as possible with all new wire and rod to do an AYK-style chassis.


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#13 Pablo

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 05:36 PM

Parts gathering: found some good stuff buried deep in my "drawers of horrors".

Genuine Cox Superflex wire, 8T brass pinion, 32T Champion 14 1/2 deg. crown gear, Dynamic flag,

silver braid, 3" threaded axle with gear flat spot, and a pair of vintage axle nuts.

Buzco Wheelies are straight and rubber is still good after all these years. Slick 7 O-Ring fronts.

The Cox 31T and Jet Flag are backup possibilities.

 

IMG_6362.JPG

 

K & B flag weight

 

IMG_6375.JPG

 

New 26D brushes, Champion endbell with post protectors, and shimmed Arco magnets.

New Champion can is on order

 

IMG_6368.JPG


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#14 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 06:09 PM

You haven't mentioned an arm. :)


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#15 Pablo

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 06:32 PM

You're right. Havlicek will be custom building me a fairly stock balanced arm :)


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#16 old & gray

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 07:00 PM

You haven't mentioned an arm. :)

 

My memories of the car I had (this frame, Champion motor, and F1 body) even the stock wind is going to be a handful.


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#17 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 07:21 PM

Stock 26Ds were quite a motor for $3. If they didn't have such a high center of gravity, they'd have replaced most 16Ds. I had a couple Classics that ran away.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#18 Pablo

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 07:32 PM

$3 chassis, $3 motor, $1 shell, those were the days :)


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 04:09 PM

The key parts all removed; solder sucked, sanded and polished.

What little plating that held and remained, I didn't mess with.

 

IMG_6377.JPG

 

The flag holder wouldn't even come close to fitting a flag due to it's (.425") OD,

so I used my "poor man's lathe" to take it down to fit at .380".

 

Once the solder was removed from the bracket, it went "schproing" :laugh2:

That's what happens when parts don't fit so you force them in place then solder ^_^


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#20 old & gray

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 04:55 PM


Once the solder was removed from the bracket, it went "schproing"

 

Somehow this explains the problem a fourteen year old couldn't diagnose in1967. :dash2:


Bob Schlain

#21 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 09:09 PM

You could save the front axle too. I've see them going for a buck on eBay.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#22 Pablo

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 03:20 PM

Arcos and shim installed in new can. Setup now goes to John Havlicek for a custom arm :dance3:

 

IMG_6396.JPG

 

 


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 06:48 PM

The stupid ridge that butts against the inner bracket face makes alignment of the sides impossible.

I had to make some ugly bends in the bracket to make it right.

 

The "pretty" AYK plating finish is gone, and a new tube is tacked in.

Bracket now lays flat, true, and will give .032" clearance with the .812 Buzco wheels

 

IMG_6401.JPG


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#24 Pablo

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 03:44 PM

You could save the front axle too.

 

I took your advice, Bill. AYK (.060") front axle was removed and cleaned.

Old front wheels were cleaned and polished, then installed with new keepers

 

IMG_6417.JPG


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 05:24 PM

WB will be 3 7/8", GL 3/4"

 

Don Weaver gifted me some special 1/16" rod long ago.

Theoretically a little stiffer and stronger than standard K & S brass rod.

I think it's time to use it on this car

 

IMG_6438.JPG

 

 


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#26 SlotStox#53

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 06:05 PM

Brazing rod works well, easy to bend and solder added bonus of the mentioned improvement over brass.

Had started putting one of these under one of Gene's cool Small Dart Thingies. Luckily the chassis is straight, just needs the weird guide holder improved.

Look forward to seeing the improved Pablo version :D

#27 Pablo

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 09:46 PM

Thanks Paul :)

 

Bunky says "even an old vintage car deserves a correct flag attitude". There may be hope for him yet

 

post-91-0-26404900-1409619211.jpg

 

IMG_6441.JPG


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#28 Jay Guard

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 08:38 AM

Hey Pablo:

 

Those fronts are from Slick 7, not vintage, oh my!!! 


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 09:03 AM

:o :laugh2: Thanks Jay, they are sweet fronts.

 

She is in the tumbler. Photos tonight :dance3:


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 06:09 PM

Original bracket, cross pan connector, drop arm weight, front axle, and flag holder.

Everything else is new

 

IMG_6446.JPG

 

IMG_6451.JPG

 

IMG_6459.JPG


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#31 Samiam

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 06:37 PM

Very cool rebuild. I guess you can call it a "Resto-Mod".


Sam Levitch
 
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
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#32 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 07:14 PM

Thanks, Sam. Call it whatever you want. To me, it's a Thingie - no rules.

 

Paint job was pretty simple

 

IMG_6464.JPG


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#33 old & gray

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 07:43 PM

Very cool rebuild. I guess you can call it a "Resto-Mod".

 

Looks like a Dick P group 12 chassis to me. :D


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 07:56 PM

IMG_6477.JPG

 

3" flatted axle polished and Wilson's crown flash removed

 

IMG_6470.JPG


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#35 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 08:18 PM

 

Looks like a Dick P group 12 chassis to me. :D

 

Bob, I doubt Pablo knows Dick P like we know Dick P.   :laugh2: Blueprinted flexis don't seem to circulate like other chassis  Should we let Pablo know the "P" doesn't stand for Pablo? I first met Dick in 1969 or 70.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#36 old & gray

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 09:42 PM

 

Bob, I doubt Pablo knows Dick P like we know Dick P.   :laugh2: Blueprinted flexis don't seem to circulate like other chassis  Should we let Pablo know the "P" doesn't stand for Pablo? I first met Dick in 1969 or 70.

 

Pablo,

 

I apologize for the obscure reference. As Bill noted Dick P was a racer in the Northeast. Dick would repair/rebuild a Group 12 brass and wire chassis for many racers. I would send him a mass produced chassis of questionable alignment with cold solder joints and he would send back a straight polished jewel.

 

Your rebuild of the AYK reminded me of the way Dick could turn the bits of chassis parts into a race or concours winner.

 

Very nice chassis, I wish my car from the 60's had been half as nice.


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#37 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 11:02 PM

Bob, Dick still races slot cars competitively. He participates in the NECC series. Once the brass kar chassis became obsolete, he graduated to blueprinting flexis.& has done so ever since. During the '97 USRA Nats, Dick was building Gunther Faas aluminum I-15 kits. I've seen a handful of Dick P built wire chassis being sold on eBay the past 5 years. 


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#38 Pablo

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Posted 08 July 2017 - 07:45 AM

Thanks Bob, no problemo :)


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#39 Pablo

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Posted 08 July 2017 - 01:55 PM

Bill, here is the carcass, did you want to make soup stock out of it?  :icon22:

 

IMG_6478.JPG


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 08 July 2017 - 03:01 PM

Silver braids soldered

 

IMG_6486.JPG

 

Buzco Rear Wheelies at 13/16" give about .032" clearance

 

IMG_6485.JPG

 

Slick 7 O-Rings make the front clear about .032".

Steel retainer circlip secures the Dynamic flag.

The drop arm rods act as flag stops

 

IMG_6484.JPG


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#41 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 July 2017 - 03:51 PM

Bill, here is the carcass, did you want to make soup stock out of it?  :icon22:

 

I don't care for solder soup. If you can clean off all the solder, maybe something can be made using them. :dance3:


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#42 Pablo

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Posted 08 July 2017 - 05:36 PM

:laugh2:  Bill, I don't have that much artistic talent :laugh2:

 

If the 45 year old Buzco rubber doesn't grip, backup plan is 5/8" wide Mila Miglia wheels with orange donuts.

Ray Fellows Bandit cockpit tinted with black acrylic at 15 PSI

 

IMG_6487.JPG


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#43 Pablo

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 04:55 PM

Havlicek arm is a real beauty :D  .590" OD, 65T of 30 and a little timing

 

IMG_6513.JPG


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#44 Pablo

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 06:58 PM

Arm was easy to space and perfectly center. Shimmed Arcos (.610" hole) secured with one clip and CA.

EB mounting holes on the can were countersunk to allow the attachment screws to sit flush

 

IMG_6519.JPG

 

 26D brushes pre-radiused to .210" comm size

 

IMG_6517.JPG


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 08:20 PM

She started instantly, nice and smooth, draws .65 amps at 3 volts, runs very cool, revs real nice.

A perfect 26D powerplant :good:

 

IMG_6521.JPG

 

IMG_6523.JPG


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#46 havlicek

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 06:37 AM

Boy, that thing has a long shaft!  ;)


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#47 Rick Moore

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 08:14 PM

Pablo, this build thread brings back some crazy fun memories. At our local MD raceway way-back-when the rules for sports car bodies didn’t allow body flaring (yet), so to get the full 3-inch allowed width most of us ran open-wheeled for that time, and snagging up these Champion frames/cars (a “Harrison” Indy body, if memory serves me right) as fast as they hit the counter stock. I think they came with 607’s, but I recall many other armatures getting put in them (26-D triple winds, hoo boy!). Immediately, or at least within the first few laps, we were all soldering on bracing wires of all conception, questionable and otherwise, to keep these things somewhat straight, and able to survive the Wednesday and Saturday night races. In rather short order suffice it to say every one of them got “rebuilt” much as you’re doing here, albeit with much greater expediency and not surprisingly a much more ham-fisted approach to construction. Still cracks me up to this day just thinking about it…

 

Always a joy to watch your builds, thanks, and, need I say it, keep having fun!

 

Rick / CMF3


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#48 Pablo

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 09:46 PM

Rick M. thanks for chiming in  :D

John H, the shaft needed to be a mile long due to the AYK bracket :laugh2:

 

I changed from 8/32 Wilson's to a 7/28 Wilson's and still needed to cut the body to make it clear.

She passes the drivetrain test with flying colors

 

IMG_6549.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#49 C. J. Bupgoo

C. J. Bupgoo

    reticent abnegator

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 09:52 PM

Boy, that thing has a long shaft!   ;)

 

"That's what she said!"   :sarcastic_hand: 


Michael G. Sutlick
 
"A man can never possess too many small, electric motors.
 
                                                                          Buford T. Tesla, (c. 1927)

#50 Pablo

Pablo

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 01:34 PM

Bandit is done and ready to track test.

The silver braid wasn't making me happy so I used Prime.

 

IMG_6555.JPG

 

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The Wilson's gear seems to mesh OK but it is rather noisy despite a heat treating break in.

So I'll bring a dyed Parma Pink and a Cox to swap out just in case.

Also made a set of 5/8" wheels with fresh donuts in case I need more grip and/or the 45 yr. old Buzco rubber sucks

 

IMG_6566.JPG


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Paul Wolcott





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