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Bandit AYK-style 26D


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 06:47 PM

Body is a Bandit by Ray Fellows, nice and thin - about 10 thou.

Chassis is a Japanese AYK. I'll need to build a 26D motor for it.

Anybody know what the "U" wire is for?

 

IMG_6330.JPG

 

What is this little ball on the motor bracket face, plated solder schmegma, or a speed secret from 1966? :laugh2:

 

IMG_6333.JPG


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#2 Samiam

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 08:14 PM

Looks like a spring to load the drop arm. The schmutz is errant solder. 


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 08:28 PM

Thanks Sam. I figured it was a ball of solder. Very interesting, the total lack of any quality control :crazy:

Not only was the soldering sloppy, they plated over the mistakes :laugh2:

 

I'd like to see a photo of how the "U" wire was actually used, if anybody has one.

But I won't lose any sleep over it :)


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#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 08:31 PM

That little ball is a Japanese signature (Mr. Ball-san) used by the chassis builder because his kana didn't fit on the bracket Notice how roughly the bracket is soldered to the mainrails.  The wire may be for a spring as Sam says, but I can't recall seeing it ever used on one of these chassis.


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#5 Pablo

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 09:34 PM

:laugh2:  My Samurai x-acto is about ready to remove the little ball flaw :laugh2:


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#6 Samiam

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 08:30 AM

There is a spring like that on a Russkit car I have. Sits on top and loops under drop arm hinge pin then hooks into chassis. This one looks like some sort of bend will be needed to hook onto frame rails. 


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#7 mjsh

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 09:06 AM

​Blobs didn't matter as the 26D is endbell drive and thusly had enough clearance. I think the plated chassis was only 2.98  retail. I think the extra piano wire gives you the option to lengthen the drop arm..

I guess the wire is supposed to slip into the tubing, but not sure how to do that after the plating.


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#8 TSR

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 04:32 PM

The piece of wire was to be used for various, undefined, possible options described on the Champion catalog, here is the page: 

270.jpg
 


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#9 Pablo

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 05:15 PM

Thanks Doc, that explains it 100% :victory:

Kudos to Champion for encouraging racers to think and modify.

 

On mine, I think I'll just leave it stock. If more strength is needed I'll just build a complete chassis for it myself.


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#10 bluecars

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 08:06 PM

Saw "building a complete chassis" coming a mile away. :D


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#11 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 09:25 PM

If that wire is bent properly, it'll provide space to mount the "Pablo" plaque. :)


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#12 Pablo

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 04:45 PM

Saw "building a complete chassis" coming a mile away. :D

 

Truer words were never spoken, Red, you nailed it.

I didn't realize how bad it was until I laid it on the block and realized the drop arm weight was about .032" below ground zero.

The rear axle tubes are so badly misaligned they cannot be bent straight. Etc.

 

So I'll have Cheater change the name of my thread to "Bandit AYK-style 26D", and use as many stock pieces as possible with all new wire and rod to do an AYK-style chassis.


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#13 Pablo

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 05:36 PM

Parts gathering: found some good stuff buried deep in my "drawers of horrors".

Genuine Cox Superflex wire, 8T brass pinion, 32T Champion 14 1/2 deg. crown gear, Dynamic flag,

silver braid, 3" threaded axle with gear flat spot, and a pair of vintage axle nuts.

Buzco Wheelies are straight and rubber is still good after all these years. Slick 7 O-Ring fronts.

The Cox 31T and Jet Flag are backup possibilities.

 

IMG_6362.JPG

 

K & B flag weight

 

IMG_6375.JPG

 

New 26D brushes, Champion endbell with post protectors, and shimmed Arco magnets.

New Champion can is on order

 

IMG_6368.JPG


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#14 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 06:09 PM

You haven't mentioned an arm. :)


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#15 Pablo

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 06:32 PM

You're right. Havlicek will be custom building me a fairly stock balanced arm :)


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#16 old & gray

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 07:00 PM

You haven't mentioned an arm. :)

 

My memories of the car I had (this frame, Champion motor, and F1 body) even the stock wind is going to be a handful.


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#17 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 07:21 PM

Stock 26Ds were quite a motor for $3. If they didn't have such a high center of gravity, they'd have replaced most 16Ds. I had a couple Classics that ran away.


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#18 Pablo

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 07:32 PM

$3 chassis, $3 motor, $1 shell, those were the days :)


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 04:09 PM

The key parts all removed; solder sucked, sanded and polished.

What little plating that held and remained, I didn't mess with.

 

IMG_6377.JPG

 

The flag holder wouldn't even come close to fitting a flag due to it's (.425") OD,

so I used my "poor man's lathe" to take it down to fit at .380".

 

Once the solder was removed from the bracket, it went "schproing" :laugh2:

That's what happens when parts don't fit so you force them in place then solder ^_^


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#20 old & gray

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 04:55 PM


Once the solder was removed from the bracket, it went "schproing"

 

Somehow this explains the problem a fourteen year old couldn't diagnose in1967. :dash2:


Bob Schlain

#21 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 June 2017 - 09:09 PM

You could save the front axle too. I've see them going for a buck on eBay.


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#22 Pablo

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 03:20 PM

Arcos and shim installed in new can. Setup now goes to John Havlicek for a custom arm :dance3:

 

IMG_6396.JPG

 

 


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 30 June 2017 - 06:48 PM

The stupid ridge that butts against the inner bracket face makes alignment of the sides impossible.

I had to make some ugly bends in the bracket to make it right.

 

The "pretty" AYK plating finish is gone, and a new tube is tacked in.

Bracket now lays flat, true, and will give .032" clearance with the .812 Buzco wheels

 

IMG_6401.JPG


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#24 Pablo

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Posted 04 July 2017 - 03:44 PM

You could save the front axle too.

 

I took your advice, Bill. AYK (.060") front axle was removed and cleaned.

Old front wheels were cleaned and polished, then installed with new keepers

 

IMG_6417.JPG


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 05 July 2017 - 05:24 PM

WB will be 3 7/8", GL 3/4"

 

Don Weaver gifted me some special 1/16" rod long ago.

Theoretically a little stiffer and stronger than standard K & S brass rod.

I think it's time to use it on this car

 

IMG_6438.JPG

 

 


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