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The 1971 Steube RTR


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#1 dc-65x

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 05:30 PM

The April 1971 issue of Miniature Auto Racing Newsletter had a "Product Spotlight" on the Steube ready to run Pro car. I've long admired this car:

 

(The MAR scans are courtesy of Steve Okeefe, click on the pictures to enlarge)

 

MAR 4-71 pg14.jpg

 

MAR 4-71 pg15.jpg

 

Here are a couple of pictures of one of Bill Steube Jr.'s similar builds (pictures courtesy of Mike Steube):

 

Billy%20Mobile.jpg

 

Billy%20Mobile%202.jpg

 

I haven't built a C-can anglewinder in years and the time has come. :crazy:  I'm not going to build an exact "replica" or "clone" but rather a very similar car that will be "inspired" by the 1971 Steube R-T-R.

 

I'm breaking out my real deal Steube new old stock parts for the build. First one of the coolest drop arms ever...

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2016.jpg

 

... and the very distinctive Steube pans:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2015.jpg

 

Not a Steube part but a period part none the less, a Cobra motor bracket:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2017.jpg

 

The axles are 3/32", the wheelbase in the Rick's Jig is set to 3-13/16" and the main rail combination is .062"-.055". The start of the build:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2024.jpg

 

The "half rails" and the cross brace are what's being aligned by the jig's pins. This chassis uses straight half rails. All the other anglewinder chassis I've built have had a bend in at least the drive side half rail.

 

Time to fire up the Ungar...


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#2 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 07:58 PM

Rick,

 

You probably know the Steube pans and droparm were manufactured by Associated.

 

One of my old Tony P chassis has straight half rails. I bought it at C&C Raceway in CT during the 1972-73 timeframe, but I don't actually know when is was built.

 

This Steube chassis should be a good build. Have fun constructing it.


Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#3 dc-65x

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 08:20 PM

Hi Bill,

 

I thought that Steube had close ties with Associated because of their "Steube Stabilizer" wheels and tires. Good stuff! Glad you're following along. :)

 

I've got a start on the center section:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2026.jpg


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#4 havlicek

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 05:22 AM

I watch all your builds Rick... but this... ahhhh! Mura muscle pushing a glorious anglewinder (with four actual wheels ;) ) under a sleek body is the stuff of legend.


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#5 dc-65x

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 10:58 AM

Hi John,

 

Speaking of "four actual wheels", it's time to get the front axle on the chassis. :)  :dance3:

 

The forward uprights first...

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2035.jpg

 

... then their trimmed and the "Steube" angled rear uprights go on:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2034.jpg

 

The front axle in place:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2029.jpg

 

I think Mike angled his rear uprights more... oh well, next time I will too! Onward to beefing up the rear end.


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#6 TSR

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 11:55 AM

"I thought that Steube had close ties with Associated because of their "Steube Stabilizer" wheels and tires."

Actually, Mike Steube "sold" his name to the Associated partnership of Lee Yurada and Roger Curtis, angering his father to no end!

Yurada, a talented machinist formerly in the aircraft industry, but also a slightly deranged dope smoker, had a bad influence on Mike and as Mike's dad, Bill Sr. was not exactly made of silk, things were not always easy in the family, forcing the teenager to be subjected to not always good outside influence. Fortunately, Bill Jr. took Mike under his wing and protected him from such bad influences for a long time, in fact until his death from a nasty cancer.
 


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#7 Jaz

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 01:41 PM

I had one of those Bill Steube motors, around late '70 or so. It was a single 24 and I paid about $40 for it. Ran it for about six months at Buzzy's and Glen Oaks, much to the chagrin of Jim Greenaway. It used to scream on the straights, geared, I think, 9/48.

 

When it finally blew, probably due to all the full gluing we were doing back then, I had to humbly crawl to Big Jim and practically beg he build me a new motor. 


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#8 TSR

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 05:36 PM

1970 "Steube Can" motor:

 

1972-steube-1.jpg     1972-steube-2.jpg


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#9 Jaz

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 05:49 PM

Yep!

 

Exacta mundo!


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#10 Tom Eatherly

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 05:51 PM

Bill Jr. was a heck of a good guy. Pretty easy going.

 

A touch off subject, but, Philippe, how long did the "Green Can" of Bob Greene dtay around?

 

Thanks.


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#11 Richard G With

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 06:43 PM

I had one of those motors. When it finally blew up, I took it apart and marveled at how much polishing had been done on the magnets.

It was a work of art inside and out.


We must all do what we must do, for if we do not, then what we must do does not get done.  Chung Mee

      Parkes, W. (Producer) & Meyer, N. (Director). (1985). Volunteers.[Motion picture]. United States: HBO.

 


#12 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 06:54 PM

Tom,

 

I don't know exactly when, but it was used until Mura came out with a new C-can. Champion C-cans had become non-existent about 1975, even though I continued to run my old ones into the early '80s. In the mid-to-late '70s, the Green Can was all that was available. Even East coast motor builders such as Montague and Labree, who had previously built only Champion C-cans changed over. I don't know if Russ Boyington did or not. Trinity also used Green Cans for awhile, too.


Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#13 dc-65x

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 07:50 PM

Thanks to all for sharing your experiences...

 

PdL's Steube motor pictures are wonderful; thank you, Philippe. They inspired me to build a similar "looking" motor for my friend Adam a few years ago:

 

Adams 72 neat things car 007.JPG

 

Adams 72 neat things car 006.JPG

 

Adams 72 neat things car 004.JPG

 

I'm looking forward to building a motor for this car. :D  But first I've got to finish the chassis so here is some more progress, the setup for the rear axle tube braces:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2036.jpg

 

All soldered up...

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2037.jpg

 

... and trimmed up with the motor bracket and brace installed:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2038.jpg

 

Time to break out that NOS Steube drop arm.  :dance3:


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#14 SlotStox#53

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 08:28 PM

It's amazing how simple these beasts are with the straight half rails and no complicated motor box.  :laugh2:

Those original Steube brass parts are the icing on the cake, unless you have some motor goodies cherry picked ready and waiting.   :D :heart:



#15 Tom Eatherly

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 09:10 PM

Those Green motors you're showing are works of art. Wow. The "Green" cans I remember were from around '67 to '70?

 

Bob Greene used to machine those for Gilbert, Steube, and probably whoever wanted to pay for them. I'm just not clear on the details.

 

I know I ran a couple with my Thorpe arms and with whatever magnets and all in the '66-67 to late '69 when I bowed out of slots.

 

Sorry for the hijack.


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#16 dc-65x

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 09:31 PM

No hijack, Tom. Thanks for making your period memories part of this build.

 

Paul, I've got a few more Steube goodies for this car.


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#17 B.C.

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Posted 01 July 2017 - 11:08 AM

The ad shows $125 for the car. any idea what that would be in 2017 dollars?


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#18 dc-65x

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Posted 01 July 2017 - 11:22 AM

Hi Brian,

 

An inflation calculator I found says $125 in 1971 would be $$758.27 today!   :shok:


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#19 Martin

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Posted 01 July 2017 - 11:24 AM

$125 in 1971 → $754.70 in 2017

The US dollar experienced an average inflation rate of 3.99% per year between 1971 and 2017. $125 in the year 1971 is worth $754.70 in 2017.
 
Sorry, Rick, must have been finding this at the same time. :dash2:


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#20 TSR

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 02:29 PM

Since I hardly had a penny on my name in the day, I would never have been able to buy that car unless it would have been given to me, which it likely was. That, or the magazine paid for it which I doubt. 

I have no idea of what happened to it, like so many, lost in the vacuum of time... :(

#21 dc-65x

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 02:30 PM

Hi, Philippe,
 
Boy it sure would be nice to have it today!
 
Since the drop arm is next up in this build I thought I'd show my 3 favorite "JET flag" style drop arms,
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2040.jpg
 
These would cost about $9 in 2017 dollars. I'd pay that and more for the awesome Team Nutley version today  :wub:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2039.jpg
 
Onward...
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#22 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 04:20 PM

Many East Coast chassis builders in this period favored solid drop arms, probably the added weight was liked for the heavy glue used. My favorite was the .040" Parma without the hole.

I never had any Nutley drop arms to use. The one Steube I own wasn't used because the guide tongue lift wasn't properly bent. It's packed in my attic so I don't recall whether it was solid or had the two round holes.

Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#23 dc-65x

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 09:16 PM

The drop arm set up in to install the plumber pivot tubes and "bumper":
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2042.jpg
 
Interesting that Steube didn't use a wire reinforcement behind the plumber pivot tubes:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2041.jpg
 
I hope to get this installed on the center section tomorrow...
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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 09:14 PM

Here's the center section with the drop arm hinge tubes installed:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2043.jpg
 
A closeup shows the hinge tube with a 1/16" wire reinforcement behind it and a 1/32" plumber up-stop on top:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2044.jpg
 
I stink at soldering on little bits like this. I always try to come up with a plan to hold the pieces in place while I solder. So I thought I'd show that plan.
 
First up I located a long piece of 3/32" tube for the pan hinges in the jig and soldered it to the frame:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2045.jpg
 
A long piece of 1/16" wire is tacked on to the 3/32" brass tube and then, solidly in place, soldered to the frame rails:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2046.jpg
 
The excess is trimmed off:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2047.jpg
 
The 1/32" plumber up-stop was made in one piece and tacked to the center of the still one piece drop arm hinge. The up-stop tacked in place, then it's soldered at each end:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2048.jpg
 
Last step is to cut the center of the drop arm hinge and plumber up-stop out:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2049.jpg
 
I bet the Pros could cut and solder the little bits in place in a manner of minutes on a motel room coffee table at 2 AM... no problem. :laugh2:
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#25 Dallas Racer

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 10:11 PM

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that has to do that! Even a great builder like you struggles with it.

 

That's exactly the way I do it too. I can't do it otherwise.

 

More times than I care to remember, I've gotten a little impatient cutting the excess off, creating too much heat and melting the solder, causing it all to fall apart. Ugh! :mad:


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#26 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 09:18 AM

Sano, Rick. :heart:

You're right, they did crank them out fast in the day, but let us remember a lot of them didn't work well and were simply rejected.
 
I like to use small alligator clips then tack, because my chassis don't enjoy having a spinning and shaking Dremel wheel near them. :laugh2:
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#27 dc-65x

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 09:33 AM

Good point, Pablo... although it does make life exciting! :crazy:
 
I should mention about cutting out some of those pieces like the center of the drop arm hinge:
 
Steube Ferrari 612 (49).JPG
 
The piece to be removed was first cut in half down the middle. While making the cut I gently move the cut-off wheel side to side to widen the cut. Sometimes there is some built in tension in the frame that could squeeze against the wheel causing a bind and explode it. :shok:
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#28 TSR

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 11:44 AM

Two more "Steube" cars built in the same period. The first three pics are a steel car built by Bill Jr. and raced by Mike in Tucson in 1971.
The last picture is one of Mike's as used at the 1971 Nats.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

1971_mike.jpg
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#29 dc-65x

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Posted 10 July 2017 - 09:42 AM

I love the steel car, Philippe. :wub:  It has the same "small wire bumper" running under the guide tongue with two-piece 1/16" wire bumpers in front, no reinforcement wires behind the plumber hinge tubes, and angled rear upright for the front axle tube (among other things) as the wire chassis in the MAR article... very cool!
 
More (slow) progress... the drop arm and drop arm spring are installed:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2050.jpg
 
Nothing is polished yet, just cleaned up with a Scotch-Brite pad:
 
Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2052.jpg
 
Plumber rails and pan hinges are next...
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#30 Martin

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 10:06 AM

Sooo clean, great build. :good:


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 10:25 AM

Thanks Martin..........I do have a boo boo in a feature I've not done before. :o  In hindsight my mistake is obvious to me now. :dash2:

 

 I like to use small alligator clips then tack...............

 

I'll be giving that a try to fix my mistake Pablo.......... :unknw:


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 11:07 AM

Another reason I like the little clips is, it allows you to pick the chassis up in your hands and tack it at eyeball level.


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#33 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 12:27 PM

I do have a boo boo in a feature I've not done before. :o  In hindsight my mistake is obvious to me now. :dash2:

 

Can we guess what it is? I might have already found it. :laugh2:  :laugh2:  If you had rather, we can give you the opportunity to fix it, afterwards telling us what you fixed.

 

The chassis is progressing nicely. :)


Bill Fernald

 

You have to be odd to be #1. :laugh2: 


#34 Jaz

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 02:36 PM

When you finally test it, you're going to have to glue that sled. 

 

I'd be interested in a comparison between glue zones vs. full glue speeds.


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#35 Mbloes

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 06:54 PM

Two more "Steube" cars built in the same period. The first three pics are a steel car built by Bill Jr. and raced by Mike in Tucson in 1971.
 

 

That looks like it just has two steel rails, like the connecting piece that would otherwise make the motor box has been cut away.


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#36 dc-65x

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 08:01 PM

Here's one example of a steel center section that I've found available lately Mike:
 
 

McLarenMk8A--1.jpg

 
 
I don't think this style could have been used by cutting out the cross piece. Bill Jr.'s rails are straighter. I wish it would work with this style because I'd like to build a steel car like PdL's picture. It's very cool.

 

Jeff, I hope to send the finished car down to Rodney for a test on a full size track. The track is nicely kept up with a spray glue finish. I don't think there will be any additional glue used.

 

Here's the corrected boo boo zone Bill:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612.jpg

 

I've never made a plumber stop with a "hook" before, just a straight piece of wire. On my first attempt I only left room for the plumber and forgot about the pan hinge that the "hook" had to clear.

 

Now I can get back on track with the plumber install.....


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#37 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 08:02 PM

Mike, when that connecting piece of steel is removed, it's easier to reheat & reform the rear rail ends  individually than it is to try reforming both sides while they are one piece. I had one of the steel center sections like dc-65x shows. They were soon cut apart & the rears of the rails rebent. That was common practice here in the Northeast when steel rail cars were being run, about 1969-71. The steel car PDL shows may have hand-cut tails.

 

Rick's chassis should have plenty of flex. All four front axle tube "L"braces face forward, the main rails are .062 & .055, &  the two rear axle tube "L" braces face rearward..


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#38 TSR

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 10:25 PM

"Here's one example of a steel center section that I've found available lately..."

Rick, these kits were marketed under the "Checkpoint" brand, but it was a different "Team Checkpoint" based in the Midwest. 
The parts were manufactured for that company by Associated Electrics, and when Mike Steube was conned by Lee Yurada in selling the rights to his name, the "Checkpoint" name went with it.
That made Bill Steube Sr. to have steam coming out of his ears... :)


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#39 NSwanberg

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 01:44 AM

That was mean. :laugh2:


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#40 dc-65x

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Posted 20 July 2017 - 09:31 PM

Moving right along.....although at a slow pace........I bent up the plumber rails and soldered on the pan hinge tubes:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2054.jpg

 

I also filed hinge clearance notches in the pans and drilled a "blow hole" in the pan hinge tube:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2053.jpg

 

"Blow holes" are something I add to one piece hinge tubes to help get flux and other goobers out so the pans don't rust up over time. Something not needed in the fast pace PRO racing scene.  :crazy:

 

 


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#41 dc-65x

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 12:35 PM

I've got the plumber rails installed:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2055.jpg

 

I use .055" wire for them and they have nice free movement:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2056.jpg

 

A couple of closeups of the install:

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2057.jpg

 

Steube%20Ferrari%20612%2058.jpg

 

Now I've got to work on getting the Steube pans flatten-out and cleaned up....


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#42 SlotStox#53

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 12:50 PM

Superb :heart: What size tubing do you use with the. 055 wire Rick?

Chassis is looking amazing :D

#43 Pablo

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 01:43 PM

:shok: :o


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#44 John Gorski

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 01:52 PM

What tooth pinion on the Steube original car?


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#45 TSR

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 02:10 PM

9/42



#46 Pablo

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 02:23 PM

Let's not forget as seen in Rick's first post, the car came with 24, 25, 27, and 28 winds.

That would certainly be a factor.


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#47 TSR

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 02:26 PM

That one had a S25 and a Faas 9/42 ratio for the Speed & Sport AMCRC "Blue King" track that was not in the best of condition at the time.



#48 dc-65x

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 07:30 PM

Hi guys and thanks. Paul, I used regular 3/32" tube for the plumber hinges. The .055" plumber rails have a bit more "slopski" in it. Within the limits of side to side and upward travel I have, the plumber movement feels really nice to me.


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#49 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 07:38 PM

Superb :heart: What size tubing do you use with the. 055 wire Rick?

Chassis is looking amazing :D

 

Paul, here in the Northeast we used .055 plumber rails in 3/32 tubing with hinged pans & .047 wire in 3/32 tubing, for more movement, if we were soldering the pans to the plumber rails.


Bill Fernald

 

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#50 SlotStox#53

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 08:13 PM

Thank you Rick and Bill :)

Handy to have info for build attempts later.





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