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Breaking-in motors?


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#1 Charles Eldridge

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Posted 24 August 2017 - 11:01 PM

OL, I have been hearing bout people breaking in motors with simple green. How do you do it and is this the stuff I should use?

 

be2bf93b361a1747241115818521745c.jpg

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#2 Mark Wampler

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 12:14 AM

Posted 31 March 2017 - 10:13 AM

 

From Matt Bruce:

 

If you want a fast effective way to break your Hawks in or any FK motor, try my Simple Green method.

Spray motor out with Pure to clean the factory grease and oil first. Then dunk motor in straight Simple Green cleaner at 3 to 4 volts for 5 to 10 seconds. Pull it out, check to see the brushes are across the comm, if not repeat for 5 second cycles till the brush is seated.

 

Some have hard and soft brushes so best to sneak up on it, but it doesn't take much time at all. Once the brush is seated, spray the motor out again to remove the Simple Green, blow it out dry, oil the shaft ends lightly, then either stick it in the car or if you have time, run on power supply at 2 to 3 volts for a few minutes then put it in car and run. Within a few laps it's ready to race.

Water break-in is OK but the Simple Green puts the entire process on steroids, gets the motor super clean, while providing a quick brush wear rate without ever glazing the comm.

 

Just remember 5 to 10 seconds is all you want, anything more and you are just wasting good brush wear for motor longevity.


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#3 DavidR

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 10:41 AM

Yes  the picture of simple green you posted  is the right stuff, Ive also found its a good idea to drop in water after the simple green run and run for 10 seconds or so to get all the simple green out, then proceed as above. 


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David Rodgers

#4 Mark Wampler

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 02:22 PM

Just remember 5 to 10 seconds is all you want, anything more and you are just wasting good brush wear for motor longevity.

 
If your brushes are already set, better think about maybe 2 seconds, low voltage in water and then blow it out. Otherwise your brushes may disappear.


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#5 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 03:29 PM

After the Simple Green I just take mine to the sink and rinse them out with water turning by hand. Then I blow it dry with air.

 

Oil it and run a little at say 4 volts.

 

Put it in a car.

 

Everyone is going to work out a way that works for them.


Eddie Fleming

#6 Mark Wampler

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 03:49 PM

Matt's break in method is the best.  I installed a new H-7 in my JK indy car for last nights race which took fast lap.   10 seconds in S.G. max for that particular motor.


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#7 Charles Eldridge

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Posted 26 August 2017 - 10:09 AM

Thank you all for your input. It helps out. Going to give it a try today.

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#8 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 10:01 AM

My last 5 motor batch of 7R7R took between 8 and 11 minutes in St Johns River water.   :shok: 

 

I am more used to seeing 45 seconds to 1 minute for them to learn to swim.

 

Getting some simple green to test - thanks!


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#9 DavidR

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Posted 12 September 2017 - 06:11 PM

Spraying the motor out with WD40 after the water gets all the water out, then spray with pure or electrical cleaner, let dry and oil bearings put in car and win races!


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#10 Mach9

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 08:25 PM

   Are you guys using the Simple green at full strength, or diluting it? Thanks!


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#11 Charles Eldridge

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 05:44 PM

   Are you guys using the Simple green at full strength, or diluting it? Thanks!

I used the simple green in the picture . Which I believe is deluted already. I Used the Matt Bruce way and recieved Good results.

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#12 JerseyJohn

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 11:12 AM

1\2 water  1\2 green


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#13 Half Fast

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 11:36 AM

Half and half allows you to extend the break in time by a few seconds (cheaper too), on full strength if you sneeze you may lose the brushes :shok:

 

Cheers


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#14 Roy Lievanos

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 01:29 PM

I have read quite a bit on using simple green to where I am going to try on next motor. Most have been performed on the R/H. How about on the FK's?
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#15 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 03:07 PM

Simple Green comes in ready-to-use and concentrate formula, which one are you guys talking about?
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#16 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 09:26 AM

I hope I can make this simple and understandable.

 

The FK motors come with an arch cut into the brushes but it is turned away from the curve of the com and the flat side of the brush rides on the curve of the com.

 

Do you consider the brush seated when the flat end of the brush fully matches the the shape of the com or is it only seated after the factory arch in the brush is gone?


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#17 JerseyJohn

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 10:32 AM

its seated when the brush contacts the commutator completely across the surface


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#18 Racer36

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 10:44 AM

What Jersey said!


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#19 MSwiss

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 10:52 AM

IMO, at least in ones I've seen in years past, they can sometimes reach max speed, before full break-in.

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#20 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 10:53 AM

I hear you John but that does not directly answer my question. 

 

It sounds like you are saying the factory arch on the brush must be gone?

 

on the other hand you have contact for the maximum rotation of the com once the flat ends of the brush are contoured to the surface of the com. so that is my question is seated at full brush contact or is it maximum rotation contact? 


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#21 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 10:56 AM

Thanks Mike

 

That would seem to indicate Maximum rotational contact is the key point.


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#22 Half Fast

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 12:31 PM

I just like to see the comm "hazed" across the full brush length instead of two lines. Track running will do the rest.

 

Cheers


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