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Auburn Boattail 1935


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 06:44 PM

It's .030" thick and the WB is 5" :dance3:

Parts gathering begins soon......

 

IMG_6922.JPG


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#2 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 07:42 PM

I shall be watching with great interest.  Welcome to the 30's

 

gallery_99_942_81372.jpg

 

EM


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 07:46 PM

Thanks Alan :D  I'll probably need your supervision at some points along the trip......


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#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 07:56 PM

You need some Russkit wire wheels for that one. :)


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#5 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 09:10 PM

You need some Russkit wire wheels for that one. :)

 

6:50 X 15  F/R


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#6 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 09:24 PM

The Russkits would be great since the Auburn wheels were bolt-on wires, not center lock but, if you can find them it will be a "melt your PayPal account" price!  If you're willing to compromise, I believe I have some resin wire inserts and/or some old (60's) Strombecker injection molded wire wheels that could be turned down for inserts.  I don't do 1/24 anymore so you are welcome to them.

 

EM


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#7 SlotStox#53

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 09:45 PM

Beautiful real car & gorgeous slot shell :heart:

This one's gonna be good :D

#8 Dave Crevie

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Posted 30 August 2017 - 01:41 PM

If you use Pro Track wheels, the wheels from the AMT '32 Ford coupe model can be turned down to fit. You can

sometimes find the tree with the wheels at model car swap meets since the builders seldom use them on their

models, opting for modern mag wheels instead. Even if you have to buy the complete kit, it is much cheaper

than the Russkits. They really look good as inserts. 

 

Back when I was a kid I built a slot car out of the Auburn kit. Don't remember who made the kit, but I haven't

seen another one since. 



#9 jokar124

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Posted 30 August 2017 - 08:47 PM

Dave, you probably had the 1/25 scale model kit made by Pyro. The model kit is still available these days but it is now made by Lindberg from the original Pyro molds. 

It is possible that Pablo's vac form shell was made over one of these model kits, depending on the manufacturer. International Engineering made a butyrate one back in the day.


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#10 Dave Crevie

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Posted 31 August 2017 - 02:07 PM

Jo; You may be right on the body kit. I remember it being very long and narrow for a slot car, even the ones we had

in the mid-sixties. The vac formed body in the OP looks to be too short to be pulled from that model. The car I

built came off the bank at the Elmhurst track, and was smashed into a million pieces. I put a Watson Indy car body

on the frame, which could take the bank full out. 



#11 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 31 August 2017 - 05:12 PM

Prototype WB: 127" = 5.3" in 1.24

 

EM


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 31 August 2017 - 07:46 PM

Thanks guys :)  Give me some more time to sort this all out.

Good thing I don't work for a living because I simply don't have time for it :laugh2:

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee


Paul Wolcott

#13 Pablo

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Posted 31 August 2017 - 09:31 PM

Looks like I will definitely need wire inserts. Alan, I'll take what you have since you say you are out of 1/24 building.

No guarantee I'll use 'em on this build but nothing here ever goes to waste :)

 

Studying the body, it's kind of like Nancy Pelosi's comment - you have to vote for the bill and get it in place before we can know what's in it :laugh2:

 

So despite the fact I'd prefer to paint the body before trimming it, I needed to trim most of the flash to really understand how I'm going to build this monster

 

IMG_6924.JPG


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#14 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 01 September 2017 - 12:16 AM

On the topic of painting, here's a challenge for you:

 

gallery_99_85_166651.jpeg

 

EM


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#15 Mark Mattei

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 08:33 PM

Hi,

A Pyro Auburn with Russkit wire wheels I made a long time ago. International Auburn and Cord bodies.

IMG_8663.JPG

IMG_8665.JPG

IMG_8669.JPG

IMG_8672.JPG

IMG_8673.JPG


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#16 MSwiss

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 09:09 PM

Mark,

Wow... really cool.
 
What's the story on the motor?

Mike Swiss
 
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)
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Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#17 jokar124

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 12:00 PM

Mark,

For future reference can you also tell us how the Pyro and International bodies compare in size?
 
PS: Like your JoHan artwork background!
Jo Salvaterra

#18 Mark Mattei

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 12:56 PM

Wow... really cool.
 
What's the story on the motor?


Hi Mike,

Glad you like it, built it in the early '80s with a then contemporary motor, recall the can came with two holes top and bottom. Some misguided notion that less steel can would enhance mag field, the opposite is probably true. After that made a motor with no can at all.

Mark

#19 Dave Crevie

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Posted 09 September 2017 - 01:48 PM

Looks cool, Mark. I painted mine gold, and the chassis was made of 3/4 inch wide brass strip. The motor was a Pittman

model train motor. Narrow Dynamics five spoke American mag style wheels. You added bumpers to yours, something I

didn't do. But the way it went off the bank, I doubt they would have helped.



#20 Mark Mattei

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:44 PM

Hi, the Pyro and International bodies are pretty close. Good spotting on the JoHan artwork, here are a few. Mark.

 

post-738-0-76388700-1505075830.jpg


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#21 mike1972chev

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 06:14 AM

Irwin.jpg


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#22 mike1972chev

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 06:15 AM

Irwin 2.jpg


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#23 mike1972chev

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Posted 13 September 2017 - 06:17 AM

irwin 3.jpg


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#24 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 03:50 PM

Sailing into uncharted waters, here is what I have so far.

-Center of rear axle to center of flag shaft 4 3/4", WB 5.00"

-Front width 3.00", Rear width 3 1/8"

-Rear wheels 13/16" OD, width 7/16"

-Front wheels OD 3/4", width 5/16"

 

Body and wheels have been given a rough cut

 

IMG_7077.JPG


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:28 PM

Parts gathering:

-JK hypoid retro bracket

-JK Hawk Retro motor with angled ARP 48P 9T steel pinion

-Parma standard thickness flag

-Parma pink 28T crown (with Koford Gold Billet set screw) is ready to be dyed black via Jairus' method :)

 

IMG_7099.JPG


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#26 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 05:12 PM

I'm certain this car will come out awesome. :)

Personally I can't relate well to pre-war autos. I have all the respect for their history and contribution. :victory:

I'd probably mount the body backwards and not cut the wheelwells, you know... a Thingy, like the Astro=V. :crazy:

Hmmm, maybe that's why I can't relate, aero-wise they look like were built to go the other way. :wacko2:

 

Other -

Painted flex drinking straws make great exhaust pipes.

I have the International Cord and Mercedes brush painted in lime gold. Crazy... 5 1/2" WB on the Mercedes


Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#27 Pablo

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Posted 19 September 2017 - 07:21 PM

Bob, I see what you mean about the body - the front wells are wider than the rear wells.

This is why I build cars like this - nobody else is crazy enough to take on the challenge :)

Thanks for the tip on flex drinking straws; that may come in handy :good:

 

A 5" WB is beyond the intended design capability of the RGeo jig, but I made it work.

Oilites soldered home, rear axle tubes set and soldered in the JK motor bracket, front axle tube is ready for rail uprights

 

IMG_7102.JPG

 

 


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 20 September 2017 - 03:30 PM

Chicagoland coined steel tongue will be perfect for my plan.

I gave the flag shaft hole a quick ream with a chainsaw file, a swipe of a fine file for flatness check,

some tilt for my planned clearances of about .055 rear/.032 front, and it's ready

 

IMG_7103.JPG

 

Notched the JK bracket for a set of .063 wire rails to taper and go inside

 

IMG_7106.JPG

 

Crown gear is dyed and ready, flag is threaded and blueprinted, motor is broken in a la Monty Ohren.

Flag nut rotating surface faced and corners rounded. All 4 wheels are final trimmed.

 

Time to lay some rails...... :dance3:

 

 


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 11:41 PM

I found a car owner - Billy Watson - matter of fact, he made the body :D

Billy loves big heavy machinery that is bulletproof and withstands the test of time :bb:

 

Out of the jig for a quickie clean and check.

It's what I call a "torsion ISO". More to follow........

 

IMG_7108.JPG

 

 


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 02:31 PM

A million thanks to Ecurie Martini for the wire inserts :air_kiss:

With a little trimming they should be perfect

 

IMG_7113.JPG

 

 

 


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#31 bluecars

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 02:59 PM

If you want, bring them to Billy's on the 7th. I have a chrome pen that will make the spokes look great.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#32 Pablo

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 03:24 PM

Awesome idea, thanks Red :D :sun_bespectacled:

I may do that. It's so good to have friends :friends:


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#33 Pablo

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 06:01 PM

Shakey lead weight at ground zero. My intent isn't for the weight to move much - it's to avoid making the rails too stiff

 

IMG_7119.JPG


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 02:19 PM

A pair of .063 tube flag stops to prevent the braid shorting out on the wire uprights at full lock.

(normally this wouldn't be necessary, but Billy is a dirt biker from way back and drives on the edge all the time :laugh2: )

 

IMG_7127.JPG


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#35 Pablo

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 05:11 PM

I considered tilting body mounts, but I like the idea of simple pin tubes

 

IMG_7129.JPG

 

This method allows for adjustment (bendable) for fine tuning body "stance" and width :)

 

 


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#36 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 10:23 PM

Happy to help - Looking forward to the finished project.  Here is what they look like with an aluminum base and a thin black shadow wash:

 

gallery_99_233_71685.jpg

 

EM


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#37 Horsepower

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 02:06 AM

If you want, bring them to Billy's on the 7th. I have a chrome pen that will make the spokes look great.

 

A chrome pen?   :shok:   Where would one purchase that?


Gary Stelter

#38 don.siegel

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 05:04 AM

Hi Gary, 

 

Just picked up one of these: I assume he's referring to the Molotow liquid chrome marker, which is pretty widely available. Results are excellent - and it's easy! 

 

Don 



#39 bluecars

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 06:12 AM

Got mine on E bay. Works great but only on the outside. won't work on inside of clear bodies. just looks like silver then.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#40 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 07:13 AM

Alan, what is a "black shadow wash"?


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#41 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 09:18 AM

Alan, what is a "black shadow wash"?

 Dilute flat black acrylic wiped off the high spots with a little foam tipped applicator (from an electronics supply shop -designed to wipe contacts etc.)  I've also used the chrome "pen" - good but your hands need to be steadier than mine are!  (Little related story: I didn't wear glasses until I was in my mid-fifties.  One evening I was working on the rigging of a ship model and realized that I was knotting the cord with the "memory" in my fingers - couldn't see what I was doing!  Next day reading  glasses, now, full time tri-focals)

 

EM


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 02:28 PM

Thanks Alan :)

Chassis is tumbling, and I turn my attention to the body.

Wikipedia says the original 1/1 cars had straight eights with exhausts ONLY on left side, and any with right side exhausts are re-creations.

 

I see some with no exhausts on right side, and some with.

Was it eight exhausts divided equally into four on left side? Or?


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#43 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 03:15 PM

Thanks Alan :)

Chassis is tumbling, and I turn my attention to the body.

Wikipedia says the original 1/1 cars had straight eights with exhausts ONLY on left side, and any with right side exhausts are re-creations.

 

I see some with no exhausts on right side, and some with.

Was it eight exhausts divided equally into four on left side? Or?

 

Flat head straight 8 - the exhaust ports were siamesed in the head and 4 individual pipes came out - the chrome flex was a covering over the pipes.

 

http://www.ultimatec...ter-119881.html 

 

(Don't know if any factory cars had pipes on both sides.  All the photos I have seen of authenticated cars have them on the left only.  Any right side pipes were most certainly dummies.

 

Em


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#44 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 03:25 PM

Bingo. Thanks :good:

I see the two forward-most exhaust tubes exit via the fender well :)


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 08:19 AM

Out of the tumbler and done, for now anyway.

I may add some brass rod outriggers, but it may be fine without them.

We shall see next Saturday

 

IMG_7146.JPG

 

IMG_7147.JPG

 

IMG_7139.JPG

 

IMG_7137.JPG


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#46 Pablo

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 04:40 PM

Alan's gifted inserts are going to work perfectly :good:

Holes drilled to 3/32 and OD trimmed on Hudy at .497".

I'll clean, paint, and mount them later - for now all I needed to know was how long to cut my axles

 

IMG_7151.JPG


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#47 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 05:35 PM

Very neatly done. My compliments, sir.

 

EM


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#48 Don Weaver

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 12:41 PM

Pablo,

 

Noticed the cut end of the rails and how smooth and "shaped" (rounded) they are  :D .  How did you do this?

 

Don


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#49 Pablo

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 01:22 PM

You mean the upright bends, or the cut ends of the uprights?

Or the ends even with the front of the tongue?

 

I'll bet you mean the cut ends of the uprights.

Correct?


Paul Wolcott

#50 Pablo

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  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 01 October 2017 - 02:43 PM

Assembly and drivetrain test complete.

Weight (sans inserts and body) is 93 grams and balance point is about midway between rear axle and flag shaft

 

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  • Jencar17 and mike1972chev like this
Paul Wolcott





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