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Auburn Boattail 1935


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#26 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 05:12 PM

I'm certain this car will come out awesome. :)

Personally I can't relate well to pre-war autos. I have all the respect for their history and contribution. :victory:

I'd probably mount the body backwards and not cut the wheelwells, you know... a Thingy, like the Astro=V. :crazy:

Hmmm, maybe that's why I can't relate, aero-wise they look like were built to go the other way. :wacko2:

 

Other -

Painted flex drinking straws make great exhaust pipes.

I have the International Cord and Mercedes brush painted in lime gold. Crazy... 5 1/2" WB on the Mercedes


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                            Bob Israelite




#27 Pablo

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Posted 19 September 2017 - 07:21 PM

Bob, I see what you mean about the body - the front wells are wider than the rear wells.

This is why I build cars like this - nobody else is crazy enough to take on the challenge :)

Thanks for the tip on flex drinking straws; that may come in handy :good:

 

A 5" WB is beyond the intended design capability of the RGeo jig, but I made it work.

Oilites soldered home, rear axle tubes set and soldered in the JK motor bracket, front axle tube is ready for rail uprights

 

IMG_7102.JPG

 

 


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 20 September 2017 - 03:30 PM

Chicagoland coined steel tongue will be perfect for my plan.

I gave the flag shaft hole a quick ream with a chainsaw file, a swipe of a fine file for flatness check,

some tilt for my planned clearances of about .055 rear/.032 front, and it's ready

 

IMG_7103.JPG

 

Notched the JK bracket for a set of .063 wire rails to taper and go inside

 

IMG_7106.JPG

 

Crown gear is dyed and ready, flag is threaded and blueprinted, motor is broken in a la Monty Ohren.

Flag nut rotating surface faced and corners rounded. All 4 wheels are final trimmed.

 

Time to lay some rails...... :dance3:

 

 


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 11:41 PM

I found a car owner - Billy Watson - matter of fact, he made the body :D

Billy loves big heavy machinery that is bulletproof and withstands the test of time :bb:

 

Out of the jig for a quickie clean and check.

It's what I call a "torsion ISO". More to follow........

 

IMG_7108.JPG

 

 


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 02:31 PM

A million thanks to Ecurie Martini for the wire inserts :air_kiss:

With a little trimming they should be perfect

 

IMG_7113.JPG

 

 

 


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#31 bluecars

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 02:59 PM

If you want, bring them to Billy's on the 7th. I have a chrome pen that will make the spokes look great.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#32 Pablo

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 03:24 PM

Awesome idea, thanks Red :D :sun_bespectacled:

I may do that. It's so good to have friends :friends:


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#33 Pablo

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 06:01 PM

Shakey lead weight at ground zero. My intent isn't for the weight to move much - it's to avoid making the rails too stiff

 

IMG_7119.JPG


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 02:19 PM

A pair of .063 tube flag stops to prevent the braid shorting out on the wire uprights at full lock.

(normally this wouldn't be necessary, but Billy is a dirt biker from way back and drives on the edge all the time :laugh2: )

 

IMG_7127.JPG


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#35 Pablo

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 05:11 PM

I considered tilting body mounts, but I like the idea of simple pin tubes

 

IMG_7129.JPG

 

This method allows for adjustment (bendable) for fine tuning body "stance" and width :)

 

 


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#36 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 10:23 PM

Happy to help - Looking forward to the finished project.  Here is what they look like with an aluminum base and a thin black shadow wash:

 

gallery_99_233_71685.jpg

 

EM


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Alan Schwartz

#37 Horsepower

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 02:06 AM

If you want, bring them to Billy's on the 7th. I have a chrome pen that will make the spokes look great.

 

A chrome pen?   :shok:   Where would one purchase that?


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#38 don.siegel

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 05:04 AM

Hi Gary, 

 

Just picked up one of these: I assume he's referring to the Molotow liquid chrome marker, which is pretty widely available. Results are excellent - and it's easy! 

 

Don 



#39 bluecars

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 06:12 AM

Got mine on E bay. Works great but only on the outside. won't work on inside of clear bodies. just looks like silver then.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#40 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 07:13 AM

Alan, what is a "black shadow wash"?


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#41 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 09:18 AM

Alan, what is a "black shadow wash"?

 Dilute flat black acrylic wiped off the high spots with a little foam tipped applicator (from an electronics supply shop -designed to wipe contacts etc.)  I've also used the chrome "pen" - good but your hands need to be steadier than mine are!  (Little related story: I didn't wear glasses until I was in my mid-fifties.  One evening I was working on the rigging of a ship model and realized that I was knotting the cord with the "memory" in my fingers - couldn't see what I was doing!  Next day reading  glasses, now, full time tri-focals)

 

EM


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 02:28 PM

Thanks Alan :)

Chassis is tumbling, and I turn my attention to the body.

Wikipedia says the original 1/1 cars had straight eights with exhausts ONLY on left side, and any with right side exhausts are re-creations.

 

I see some with no exhausts on right side, and some with.

Was it eight exhausts divided equally into four on left side? Or?


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#43 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 03:15 PM

Thanks Alan :)

Chassis is tumbling, and I turn my attention to the body.

Wikipedia says the original 1/1 cars had straight eights with exhausts ONLY on left side, and any with right side exhausts are re-creations.

 

I see some with no exhausts on right side, and some with.

Was it eight exhausts divided equally into four on left side? Or?

 

Flat head straight 8 - the exhaust ports were siamesed in the head and 4 individual pipes came out - the chrome flex was a covering over the pipes.

 

http://www.ultimatec...ter-119881.html 

 

(Don't know if any factory cars had pipes on both sides.  All the photos I have seen of authenticated cars have them on the left only.  Any right side pipes were most certainly dummies.

 

Em


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#44 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2017 - 03:25 PM

Bingo. Thanks :good:

I see the two forward-most exhaust tubes exit via the fender well :)


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 08:19 AM

Out of the tumbler and done, for now anyway.

I may add some brass rod outriggers, but it may be fine without them.

We shall see next Saturday

 

IMG_7146.JPG

 

IMG_7147.JPG

 

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IMG_7137.JPG


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#46 Pablo

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 04:40 PM

Alan's gifted inserts are going to work perfectly :good:

Holes drilled to 3/32 and OD trimmed on Hudy at .497".

I'll clean, paint, and mount them later - for now all I needed to know was how long to cut my axles

 

IMG_7151.JPG


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#47 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 30 September 2017 - 05:35 PM

Very neatly done. My compliments, sir.

 

EM


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#48 Don Weaver

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 12:41 PM

Pablo,

 

Noticed the cut end of the rails and how smooth and "shaped" (rounded) they are  :D .  How did you do this?

 

Don


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#49 Pablo

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 01:22 PM

You mean the upright bends, or the cut ends of the uprights?

Or the ends even with the front of the tongue?

 

I'll bet you mean the cut ends of the uprights.

Correct?


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#50 Pablo

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 02:43 PM

Assembly and drivetrain test complete.

Weight (sans inserts and body) is 93 grams and balance point is about midway between rear axle and flag shaft

 

IMG_7153.JPG


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