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Auburn Boattail 1935


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#51 Don Weaver

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 04:01 PM

Cut ends of the uprights.

 

Don


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#52 Pablo

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 04:43 PM

It's a little trick I use on all my builds.

Put a drop of acid on top of the cut wire. Load the iron with a good amount of solder - too little is bad - too much is OK.

Boop! A fraction of a second is all it takes, and the result should be pretty :curtsey:


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Paul Wolcott

#53 Pablo

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Posted 01 October 2017 - 05:35 PM

Flash bits removed from the inserts (trimming process) then cleaned with liquid soap and toothbrush.

 

I dusted the back sides with some Krylon® rattle can primer

 

IMG_7163.JPG

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#54 Pablo

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 05:25 PM

I hope I did them justice, Alan. Not 100% done yet - the 3/32 holes will be filled with gold colored styrene

 

IMG_7168.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#55 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 02 October 2017 - 09:30 PM

Looking good - since the original wheels were "bolt on" not "knock-off", I would file down the center a bit and, rather than 3/32" rod, use 3/32" shank rivets like one of these:

 

https://www.mcmaster...ivets/=19n7uvz

 

(scroll down and select shank diameter)

 

Al


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#56 Pablo

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Posted 03 October 2017 - 03:40 PM

Harpooned the pin holes and I think I got the body stance OK.

The beauty of the (way I set up the) tubes is, I can adjust the body without making a pin cushion out of it :laugh2:

 

IMG_7178.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#57 Pablo

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Posted 03 October 2017 - 04:41 PM

Inserts are done.

 

IMG_7185.JPG

 

Red, I think they look sexy enough as is, but please bring the chrome pen anyway.

I may need it to do some other areas of the body :)


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#58 bluecars

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Posted 04 October 2017 - 06:05 AM

No problem.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#59 Pablo

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:11 PM

Interior/driver ain't nothin' fancy - Immense Miniatures head atop a Bobby Page painted torso,

mounted on a Lexan sheet painted black with a copper tint

 

IMG_7205.JPG


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#60 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:21 PM

That head could use an Ivy League hat.  :)


Bill Fernald
 

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#61 Pablo

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 05:41 PM

:laugh2:  C'mon, Bill, I'm a mechanic, not a doggone clothing designer :nea: Billy can put whatever hat he wants on it :laugh2:

 

At the request of a friend, here is a comparison photo showing the long Boattail compared to a 4" WB car.

The rear axle to flag shaft length really isn't much longer, but the front wheels are way forward.

 

The way I set up the front axle rails, I expect it to handle very much like a 4.5" WB car

 

IMG_7207.JPG


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#62 Pablo

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 06:03 PM

Ecurie Martini's gifted inserts came out pretty nice, I think. Thanks, Alan :D

 

IMG_7210.JPG

 

For exhausts, Gator Bob's flexi straw idea was good but are a little too big to my liking.

I tried slicing them to reduce the OD but it was a goat rodeo.

 

Then I tried .125 OD tubular Styrene. Too small, and when bent it loses it's roundness.

 

Bud Greene is sending me some solid 3/16 OD Styrene :sun_bespectacled:


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#63 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 07:22 PM

The way I set up the front axle rails, I expect it to handle very much like a 4.5" WB car

 

 

 

More like a 4" WB car w/4.5" extenders. Many of them had the front axle just above the guide post. Let us know how your guide location handles. Al Penrose used a "guide behind the front axle" on one of his hot rods, a 32 Ford coupe, years ago.


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#64 Pablo

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 07:35 PM

Old 4.5 extenders don't have much in common with the way I designed this car.

Look closely at the rails that support the front axle tube and how they are constructed.

 

You don't have to agree with my assessment, but I ask that you look a little more closely.

A lot of thought went into this design and I understand it may be difficult to see it.


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#65 Gator Bob

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:09 PM

 

 

For exhausts, Gator Bob's flexi straw idea was good but are a little too big to my liking.

I tried slicing them to reduce the OD but it was a goat rodeo.

 

 

There are smaller ones around like the ones on the kids drinks that come in little 6oz. boxes.

 

I can't remember the brand that has a sturdy white small dia. flex.

 

My favorite...LOL

Old-Ecto-2.jpg


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                            Bob Israelite

#66 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 October 2017 - 08:29 PM

Any of the juice boxes come with smaller dia. straws.


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#67 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 08:51 AM

Juice boxes, good thinking. I'll pick some up today.

Probably need some vodka for the juice also :laugh2:

Wheeeeeeeeeeeee :crazy:  Drinking spiked juice and painting flexi straws - PARTY :sun_bespectacled:


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#68 Ecurie Martini

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 11:15 AM

Another possible approach - I've used this to model finned brake drums - take a piece of Evergreen plastic tubing of appropriate diameter, run a piece of rod down the center to keep it rigid and rotate while holding it against a tap of appropriate pitch - a 10-24 tap will give you 24 "rings"/inch or 1" at 1:1 - just a guess from photos

 

EM


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#69 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 04:08 PM

The juice box straws are a much better size and will work.

But I'll wait to get Bud's styrene before deciding

 

IMG_7222.JPG


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#70 Pablo

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 08:06 PM

The .187 solid Styrene turned out to be my favorite.

But I still appreciate the flexi straw suggestions :)

 

2 coats of rattle can gray primer, followed by 2 coats of rattle can chrome

 

IMG_7250.JPG

 

IMG_7248.JPG


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#71 Gator Bob

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 08:23 PM

You're right .. too drastic of a bend for those straws to go in the rocker panel..

 

Those pipes are smokin' ... solid man. :good:

 

Hey... there's guys good enough to paint the heat discoloration on pipes.... I ain't one of them. :scratch_one-s_head:   :unknw:


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                            Bob Israelite

#72 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 09:03 PM

It's done and ready to be tested by Billy.

Hope it looks good, but to me it's all secondary to track performance :)

 

IMG_7287.JPG

 

IMG_7270.JPG

 

IMG_7272.JPG

 

IMG_7273.JPG

 

Thanks again to those who helped; without you it would not have been possible :) :thank_you2:


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#73 Bill from NH

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 11:41 PM

Paint pin heads black.  :good:


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#74 munter

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 12:08 AM

You are gonna hate me, but....those wheels look like 1/32 size.

 

probably gonna run nicely because of that though.


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#75 Pablo

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 08:43 AM

Thanks Bill, I will paint them :good:

You are gonna hate me, but....those wheels look like 1/32 size.

probably gonna run nicely because of that though.

Concur, wheels look too small for the car. But in my defense:

 

-body is trimmed right at the cut line and 13/16 rear / 3/4 fronts give proper clearance;

bigger wheels would require leaving material below the cut line

 

-wells are cut right at the cut lines - if I had cut them smaller, a line would be visible

 

-given the limitations of motor and bracket, larger rears than 13/16 would start raising the motor above ground zero.

I only do that when it's absolutely necessary, but that's just me :)

 

-I'm not a scale nut :crazy:

 

sweet-cicily-5336178925.jpeg


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