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Clow's Limpach


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#26 Pablo

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Posted 03 September 2017 - 03:35 PM

OK I can see I'm out of my league on that subject so I'll just listen :popcorm1:

 

Alpha Wonder Rubber donuts on Limpach Cuts hubs

 

IMG_6975.JPG

 

Anybody know why the Steube fronts are like this?

 

IMG_6971.JPG


Paul Wolcott




#27 Bill from NH

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Posted 03 September 2017 - 03:54 PM

Jeff, you mentioned a "motor box" but motor boxes were made obsolete by using can drive configuration.

This chassis has no motor box. Mura made endbells with cut outs to allow the non-gear side rails to pass under them.

 

Some people, myself included, will refer to the motor mounting area formed by the two half-rails & the rails' crosspiece as the "motor box."  While technically not a box, neither was the motor mounting area on earlier anglewinder designs by scratchbuilders & companies like Cobra & Phase III. 

 

I'm guessing the rubber on the Steube fronts has aged to the point of being rotten. if you're asking about the hub's center rib, it was supposed to help keep the rubber on the hubs. Many 1/32 hubs today, both front & rear, have center ribs in various  widths.


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#28 bluecars

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 06:18 AM

Pablo; I think I have a good set of those fronts if you want them.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#29 Pablo

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 09:01 AM

Clarification: I didn't mean "why do they have a giant crack in them" :laugh2:

I meant, I cracked one open to see what type rubber I could replace the 45 yr. old rubber with.

I never expected to see that center rib. I'll figure something out.

 

Red, thanks, send 'em, they will have a good home :)


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#30 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 09:35 AM

I could remove the ribs so as to use regular tires or O-rings on those hubs. 


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#31 Pablo

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 09:44 AM

Or I could do it on my Hudy. Not sure yet.

I just may have some of those crazy rubber wheels......


Paul Wolcott

#32 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 11:47 AM

Those ribs might be strength items too. RVMs are the only mag fronts I ever had.


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#33 Pablo

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 02:25 PM

Concur. I'll put them aside for now. Maybe the Doktorr will make an appearance......

 

For now, I have license from the owner to make the chassis "right" as opposed to keeping it intact for nostalgia.

As usual, the deeper I look, the more flaws I find. Some may have come from the factory, but I'll bet most didn't.

 

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Just like a hostile corporate takeover, I fired almost everybody simultaneously.

Some will be re-hired, some won't :diablo: :laugh2: :crazy:

 

IMG_6987.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#34 Pablo

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 04:37 PM

Front axle tube was a mile off as well. Don't know if the original owner (RIP) tried to make it into a specialty chassis, or ?.

Water under the bridge. I re-floated the tube for 1/16" clearance at .720". Piece of cake. L/R placement was good, +/- 5 thou

 

IMG_6991.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#35 Pablo

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 06:00 PM

Holy cow, now I'm understanding the rail issue you guys warned me about.

Somebody really screwed this chassis up in a lot of ways

 

IMG_6994.JPG

 

No problemo, I can fix it :wink2:

 

Limpach wheels rough cut to .820; now they cure for a couple days

 

IMG_6995.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#36 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 06:39 PM

Pablo, I think you're working not with a genuine Limpach, but a chassis assembled from parts or a kit to look like one. The soldering quality & placement of parts indicates to me it probably isn't legit.  Both Mike Bloes' kit build & Rick T's 888 build have some great photos if you haven't already looked. Rick even has photos of the genuine item. Did John's chassis supposedly come from the Sano Dave collection?


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#37 Pablo

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 06:47 PM

The original owner was from the Mobile, AL area.

I appreciate the info, but don't want to get too bogged down into history.

 

My job is to make it work. Nothing is ever easy here at the Wolcott Ranch, so I'm used to challenges :laugh2:


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#38 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 07:12 PM

I only asked because I've seen a ton of cars & chassis come out of the Chicago area with his name on them. Last question: How thick is the brass droparm & pans on John's chassis? Build on! :)


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#39 Pablo

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 08:40 PM

Drop arm and pans are both .040", Sir.


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 05 September 2017 - 04:32 PM

By carefully tweaking the rear uprights, I was able to use the original axle tube.

She is now jigged for 1/16" clearance using 13/16" wheels

 

IMG_7003.JPG

 

Camen spur was narrowed to about .250" width, pinion installed on motor and solder attachment points tinned

 

IMG_7007.JPG

 

 


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#41 Pablo

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 07:55 PM

Gouges in the rails that made a nest for motor bracket wire wraps are now a weak point.

They will be filled with 60/40 solder once I solder the motor in

 

IMG_7012.JPG

 

I strengthened it up top with a piece of .047

 

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.047 "U" brace for the motor in place

 

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Drop arm springs .032, same as originals

 

IMG_7018.JPG

 

Now she tumbles overnight......

 


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#42 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 08:33 PM

The rear gear-side rail area was one popular location to wire-wrap a chassis in the early 70's. Hinge tubes to plumber rails was another popular location. Sheet brass & other metals was often wrapped using drilled holes.   When done neatly, wrapping did make the area stronger. My local track owner during this period sold a stainless steel veterinary staple wire for chassis wrapping.


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#43 Pablo

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 08:46 PM

No argument here, wire wrapping did strengthen things.

But wouldn't you agree a motor bracket on a pro-era can drive chassis is useless as teats on a boar hog?

 

The wires on this one wouldn't allow a screw to be placed on the bottom anyway .......


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#44 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 09:43 PM

But wouldn't you agree a motor bracket on a pro-era can drive chassis is useless as teats on a boar hog?

 

Of my personal cars, only the first wing chassis I built had a motor bracket. None have since. When I built chassis for my local trackowner because he couldn't get 888's from Rehco, he requested motor brackets on them, so i used them then. The Lee Gilbert chassis building series in Car Model had a motor bracket, as did the Lee Gilbert pre-bent chassis kit I got from West Seattle Speedway & Hobby. I've never built an anglewinder chassis for an endbell-mounted motor.


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"I'm not short, I'm just down to earth."


#45 Pablo

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 08:49 AM

Out of the tumbler

 

IMG_7020.JPG

 

IMG_7021.JPG


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#46 tonyp

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 09:15 AM

In regards to motor brackets. We did use them for awhile with can drive. We would use a screw in the top hole to hold motor in place to set the gear ratio. Once set we would add a bottom brace to the axle tube and tack solder the can to the top of the bracket.


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#47 Pablo

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 09:43 AM

Makes sense.


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#48 Pablo

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 05:17 PM

I decided to leave the patina on the vintage front wheels.

Final wheel trim, Steube fronts .705, Limpach rears .814

 

IMG_7027.JPG


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#49 Pablo

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 07:15 PM

Assembly complete. Ride height is perfect, she passes the drivetrain test and the motor sounds happy :)

 

IMG_7030.JPG


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#50 Pablo

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 04:40 PM

Interior must be right hand driver non-full coverage helmet Chris Amon, lightweight, low profile. Decided to make my own

 

IMG_7031.JPG

 

 


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