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Finally got through a can


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#1 havlicek

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 05:29 PM

After a learning curve involving cursing, I finally got through a can...well...a strap can anyway.  This one was sized to fit the Hawk end bell.  I'd like to use one of the aluminum end bells for the Hawk, but I have to think up a better/more precise way of locating the screw holes.  The way I do it, it's kind of "hit or miss".  I can get them close, but how close varies.  I actually thought that cutting up a Hawk can and using the sides as a locating template might be the way to go.  Anyway, it's not perfect, but it will work for sure.  Biggest weak spot was my lathe.  I can make do, but no doubt the Sherline (*or similar) lathe would be a big improvement.  Moving from the Grizzly lathe to the Sherline mill was like going on vacation.  Anyway, I got it done!  Makes me wonder if there are some cobalts I could slam into this little guy.  :D

IMG_2229.JPG IMG_2230.JPG


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John Havlicek




#2 Kim Lander

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 07:04 PM

Looks really nice to me, of course it all needs to line up with the planets and moons....ooooh then we would have some good waves.......but anyways....damn nice work.


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#3 Gator Bob

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 08:15 PM

Nice work John!

 

"Sure beats kicking it down the road"

 

Question - how/why so thick?


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                            Bob Israelite

#4 olescratch

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Posted 17 September 2017 - 08:30 PM

This look's to be one to follow!  Have you given any consideration to what wind you're gonna put in it?


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John Stewart

#5 havlicek

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:21 AM

Nice work John!

 

"Sure beats kicking it down the road"

 

Question - how/why so thick?

 

Hi Bob,

     I'm thinking of thinning-down the bearing end a little still.  I was originally going to drill and tap the back for machine screws and "figgered" a lot of room for thread engagement was a good thing...then I thought that maybe there was "too much of a good thing" and then I "figgered" the can doesn't need any screws at all, but that the extra material back there wasn't such a bad thing.  The sides are about the same thickness as the folded metal type cans.

 

This look's to be one to follow!  Have you given any consideration to what wind you're gonna put in it?

 

Hi John,

     Most likely a 38/27.


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#6 wbugenis

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 06:49 AM

The rotary table is what you need.  

When you start thinking about it, the number of things it will allow you to do accurately will blow you away.

 

For the next run of commutators, I going for the CNC version for cutting the slots.

 

 http://www.ebay.com/...n=ps&dispItem=1


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#7 havlicek

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 07:05 AM

Hi Bill,

     I had my eyes on that bad boy immediately on this little job.  I got to that point where I thought immediately of other uses for it, but was also thinking that I would still like to have their lathe.  It really does seem like a wonderful addition for the mill though!

rotary table.jpg


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#8 havlicek

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 06:46 AM

As I "figgered", my can mounting holes needed to be a little "ovaled" to work with the end bell...sigh.  Still, this is my "#1" motor with my own can and it "feels" bee-yoo-tee-ful.  I prepped a Hawk aluminum end bell (no shorts again...that's like three in a row), soldered-in a can bearing after cutting an interior recess to buy myself some room.  Bearing sits about flush on the outside and about one thin washer recessed on the inside.  I epoxied-in a set of poly neos (*these have worked really well in my "Strapnuts") to complete the setup.  To go with the rest of the motor, I built a .350" stack and wound up a 37/27.

Sooo, "#1" is all ready.  The arm just needs grind/balance before assembly.  This combo is pretty much a "known-quantity" to me, and will be VERY fast and is pretty cheap to boot (*if you don't count the time spent cursing to myself...er...learning).

IMG_2231.JPG
IMG_2232.JPG
IMG_2233.JPG


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John Havlicek

#9 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 07:42 AM

That is just OUTSTANDING !


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#10 Kim Lander

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 08:05 AM

No words can describe this.....just beautiful.


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#11 havlicek

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 08:22 AM

Thanks guys.  It's certainly imperfect, but not in any way that will affect it functionally, and I have no doubt it will be a very fast and solid little motor.  It won't be my last, but it is my first! :D


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#12 Jay Guard

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 11:33 AM

Hey John just a thought....  What about drilling some lightening hole in that thick can end.  It would definitely lighten up the motor (always a good thing), probably wouldn't degrade the strength, and it might even aid in cooling a bit.  On top of all that it would just plain look "cool".


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#13 havlicek

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 11:51 AM

Hey John just a thought....  What about drilling some lightening hole in that thick can end.  It would definitely lighten up the motor (always a good thing), probably wouldn't degrade the strength, and it might even aid in cooling a bit.  On top of all that it would just plain look "cool".

 

Howdy Jay,

     If I were concerned about weight here, I would just have thinned-out the bushing end of the can!  :D  The can is really not at all heavy, and probably weighs around the same as your typical Hawk or PS mini can and, I have my suspicions about why the little extra mass/stiffness back there may actually be a good thing!  In any case, the motor doesn't really fit into any particular racing class so further development in race conditions won't happen. 

     I will probably make one with an ID sized for cobalts, at least the cheaper ones, and that will probably take shape a little differently as I curse my way through it!


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John Havlicek

#14 olescratch

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 12:24 PM

Turned out just like I thought!  If it needs to be track tested, I'm available lol.  One question, if it's #1, then why can I see an H #02 on the rear of the can?  Is there another one in hiding?


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#15 havlicek

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 01:26 PM

Turned out just like I thought!  If it needs to be track tested, I'm available lol.  One question, if it's #1, then why can I see an H #02 on the rear of the can?  Is there another one in hiding?

 

 

Because, in attempting to write really small with the engraver, the bottom line of the "1" wound up not going exactly where I wanted it to!  :D


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#16 havlicek

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 01:04 PM

"Billet Strap" #1 is in my personal "history book" with the arm back from grind/balance.  As you would expect of a #27 wind on a .350 stack, it's stoopid-fast, smooth and solid.  Will it blow up?  Beats me!  Will it set any records?  Nah!  Am I stoked?  Yep!


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#17 Geary Carrier

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 02:31 PM

Hi John,

 

Nothing quite like doing it yourself, super job.

 

All you need to do now is machine up your very own end bells...

 

Where did you get these brush hoods from?

 

 

Thanks,

g


Yes, to be sure, this is it...


#18 havlicek

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 03:41 PM

Hi Geary,

     Thanks.  The hoods are from an older Pro Slot C can end bell.  ***Interesting thing is, on a motor the same size as a Hawk or PS "euro", you can fit full size brushes, even with a large diameter com.  Makes me wonder why those motors aren't built this way in the first place.


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John Havlicek

#19 chasbeeman

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Posted 07 October 2017 - 07:13 PM

Hi John, just wanted to share some recent discoveries that you may find interesting. The drilling fixture would be better made of metal and able to fit can inside. I have used the frosted endbells on drag motors and they worked well. Wouldn't trust them with high heat.562a45add91fb778ad37eb67b23a8f7f.jpg22170348ca12f3620d9f930229bf32cd.jpg242c8d5ea2e833cf705221341c0ea3f2.jpg93afbd47656600afd3333d11f0bb2f71.jpg

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#20 havlicek

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 05:27 AM

Hi Charles,

 

     Neat product.  I don't have any use for it, but I'm sure some others may.


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#21 chasbeeman

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 12:05 AM

Hi Charles,
 
     Neat product.  I don't have any use for it, but I'm sure some others may.

I'm curious how you put the holes in can the same each time, to align with endbell holes???

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#22 havlicek

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 04:18 PM

I'm curious how you put the holes in can the same each time, to align with endbell holes???

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I "align" them by eye, scribing lines and then centerpunching where they intersect.  ***Drilling the end bell to match a drilled can is the (VERY) easy part.  It's drilling the cans to match existing end bell holes that is difficult!


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John Havlicek

#23 chasbeeman

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 05:23 PM

 
 
I "align" them by eye, scribing lines and then centerpunching where they intersect.  ***Drilling the end bell to match a drilled can is the (VERY) easy part.  It's drilling the cans to match existing end bell holes that is difficult!

Thank you for the explanation, the endbell drilling fixture inspired me to get a metal version made up to fit can dimensions for ease of the alignment process. That's why I shared the drilling fixture with you thinking it would help with duplication.

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#24 havlicek

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 07:31 PM

Thank you for the explanation, the endbell drilling fixture inspired me to get a metal version made up to fit can dimensions for ease of the alignment process. That's why I shared the drilling fixture with you thinking it would help with duplication.

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I don't get it...nothing new.  :)  Do you mean duplicating the end bell drilling fixture?...or producing a can drilling fixture?


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#25 chasbeeman

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 07:37 PM

I don't get it...nothing new.  :)  Do you mean duplicating the end bell drilling fixture?...or producing a can drilling fixture?

Producing a can drilling fixture based off of angles used for endbell fixture. So can would always align with pre-drilled endbells. I can see it in my engineering mind but somewhat hard to explain.

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